Journal of a tour in unsettled parts of North America in 1796 & 1797

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JOURNAL

TOUR IN UNSETTLED PARTS

NORTH AMERICA

IN 1796 & 1797.

BY THE LATE

FRANCIS BAILY, F.R.S.

PBBSIDE»T OF THE EOYAL ASTEONOMICAI, SOCIETY.

OTit!) a JWemoir of t^e ^utftor.

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LONDON:
BAILY BROTHERS, ROYAL EXCHANGE BUILDINGS.

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:^os^3

LONDON:

PRINTED BV M. S. P.TCKKRBY, 73, CANNON STKEET,
CITY.

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PREFACE.

I TAKE on myself the responsibility of recommending the publi
cation of this Journal, which completes a remarkable biography.
So far as our own country is concerned, it is printed for those
who remember its author, and for those who take interest in the
early life of men of science. That others may be amused or
instructed by it as a book of travels is an additional reason for
its appearance ; and, as regards the United States, a sufficient
reason.

On looking at a posthumous work of the present kind the
question naturally arises. What would the author have said to its
publication? On this point there is fuU right to infer that he
left nothing behind him on which the possibility of publication
had not presented itself to his mind. He had been an ardent
controversialist, and had lived through many scientific disputes,
in correspondence with those who were as warmly engaged as
himself. Nevertheless, among the thousands of his letters which
I have examined, I remember hut one which so much as alludes
to a charge of even scientific misconduct against a scientific man —
and that one contains the writer's verdict of acquittal. He must,
therefore, systematically have destroyed papers which he wished
not to meet other eyes. Farther, it appears that he had materials
for a much larger work; nnd these, it must bo presumed, he dc-

a 2

IV PREFAOE.

stroyed, as they do not apjjear among the carefully preserved
records of his early life. Under such circumstances exdusio
unius est admissio alterius ; especially as he was, of all men I
ever knew, the most likely to have made a prohibitory memo-
randum on any manuscript which he desired to remain unprinted.

Prancis Baily passed through life in three very distinct suc-
cessive characters. At the age of twenty-two, after serving an
apprenticeship in London, he was employed as in the following
pages; which, had they been published when written, would have
made him a name among enterprising travellers, and might have
changed his career, by enabling him to realise his project of at-
tempting discovery in Africa. Polled in this plan, he went into
business as a stockbroker; and, while acquiring a handsome in-
dependence, he placed himself in the first rank of writers on an-
nuities and assurances. Eetiring from commercial pursuits and
commercial arithmetic at the age of fifty, he betook himself en-
tirely to astronomy, which he had previously studied, and gained
a reputation of which the reader will form his judgment from the
account given by Sir John Herschel, and here reprinted.

The narrative now presented to the public is roughly expressed,
and wiU in some points need the excuse of having been written
by a young man not twenty-five years of age. I have not at-
tempted any correction, beyond that of a few very obvious omis-
sions of words and grammatical errors. I have not even thought
it desirable to make some alteration in the numerous cases in
which the verba cle prcesenti of the original notes are intermixed
with the words of the writer who is narrating the past. Some
moral and political reflections have been abbreviated, and some
omitted altogether : this has never been done to avoid ofi'ence,
but only in cases in which the matter suppressed would have been
wholly uninteresting.

PREFACE. V

1 have allowed various statements and explanations to remain,
wliicli may remind the reader that the work is of the last century^
and not of the present one : so that national peculiarities and
technical terms which are now well known^ are treated as requir-
ing elucidation. Thus it will be learnt, as due information, that
the citizen of the United States guesses, and that to come to is a
nautical expression.

I doubt if any — but certainly very few — of Mr. Baily's friends
were aware of the extent ajad character of his travels. He was
more than commonly reserved in matters relating to himself ; and
no old soldier was ever more chary of referring to anytliing which
would insinuate dangers faced or hardships endured. In the
course of fourteen years of intimate acquaintance I never arrived
at so much knowledge of his adventures as is contained in the
few sentences (pp. 4, 5) which formed the sum total of Sir John
HerscheFs recollections. Occasionally, when some thriving city
was mentioned, he would say, " When I passed that spot it was
all forest," or tlie like ; but I never heard him drop a hint that
he had calculated, under those trees, the chances of being scalped
or starved. Trom all I knew of the writer, I feel sure that the
hardship and risk are both understated.

Travels zested with personal narrative are now of comparatively
infrequent appearance; not so much from the absence of auto-
biography, as from the individuality of the writer being overlaid
by heavy science and by Greek and Latin sesquipedalians. The
lion and the rattlesnake, alive in the vernacular, are fearful
objects ; but your Felis Leo is of the museum, and not of the
forest; and your Crotalus Ilorridus reduces dread and terror to
mere means of classification. Some may yet be left to like a
book — not to say so, Heaven forbid ! — which is free from geology,
zoology, and aU manner of technology. There may even be somu

VI TREFACE.

who are tired of the cultivation of style which goes near to reduce
all but great masters of writing to monotony, and who will feel
it a relief to read, once in a way, some of that EngHsh which was
current, upon writing-paper only, in the day when an educated
man, not an author by profession, would have avowed, as a matter
of course, that hs could not write a hooJc, with as much sincerity
as he would have avowed that he could not play the violin. If
now and then the young journalist cease to narrate, and begin to
write, it is no more than Eobinson Crusoe himseK may sometimes
be caught at : and boys skip it.

The travels consist of a voyage to and account of Antigua,
some shght account of New York, &c., a voyage in an open boat
from Pittsburg to New Orleans, down the Ohio and Mississippi,
a return by land through the forest to Natchez, from thence to
Nashville, and from thence to Knoxville.

Had the pubhcation been intended for the EngHsh reader only,
I might perhaps have made the tour begin at p. 124 ; but the part
which describes the more civilized districts will have some interest
for our brethren in the United States, to whose archives the whole
work belongs. I should not have attempted, had I been compe-
tent, any notes illustrative of the great changes which have taken
place on the ground over which Mr. Baily travelled : there are
books enough on America as it now is ; or, rather, as it was a
few years ago. If an editor should steam down the Mississippi
with the manuscript, he would need to steam up again with the
proof sheets. I have not interfered with the manner in which
some names of places are spelt. Mr. Baily went over his manu-
script at some later period, and marked with a cross various
English words which he found he had used in either new or obso-
lete senses. I presume he thought he had reason to abide by his
local orthographies. Nor do I fear having misinterpreted him :

PIIEFACE. Vli

he always wrote very clearly, and among a hundred little points of
attention to accuracy, he wrote his proper names more deliberately
than his other words.

The geographical works cited are the Topographical Description
of the Western Territory of North America, by Captain Gilbert
Imlay, of which London editions were published (in octavo) in
1792 and 1795 : the American Gazetteer, by Dr. Jedediah Morse,
of which an octavo edition was published at London in 1789 :
and Dr. J. E. Porster's translation of the Travels into North
America of Peter Kalm of Abo, London, 1773, % vols. 8vo. The
modern maps of America give a very erroneous idea of the bare-
ness of the country travelled over : but there is one which is fully
illustrative on this point, attached (1804) to the EngUsh translation
(and for aught 1 know to the original) of Yolney's work on the
climate and soil of the United States.

I suppose we may take it for granted, in our day, that we need
no more insist upon every book having a moral, than upon every
herring having a mission. But if any be left who ask, Cui bono ?
and know what they are asking, they may be easily answered.
A boy, or — as he would have us say — a young man, who feels that
nothing but a stirriug Ufe wiU suit his aspirations, — who places
heaven in the Crimea, and hell iu a counting-house, — is very
apt to suppose that the prohibition with which well-judging
friends have barred his way must condemn him to shelve
all his high energies, and to cultivate only the tamest and most
household qualities. To such a one I think the story here
told, read with the subsequent life of the author, may be for
good — certainly will be, if he possess a small portion of the sound
sense which shines in the character of the model placed before
him. Mr. Baily, after a course of adventure which would have
been a fitting apprenticeship, had set his heart, first upon a military

Vlll rUEFACK

life, and then upon following the example, and risking the fate,
of Mungo Park. Eailing in these schemes, he became a stock-
broker. But the energy of his character was not thrown away : it
enabled him, while making his fortune, to place himseK in the
first rank of cultivators of one branch of science ; and, after he had
made his fortune, to obtain like success in another. The same
resolution which, with the ardour of twenty-five, would have led
him over African deserts for the promotion of one knowledge, sus-
tained him, for the sake of another, through four years — to name
only one labour of research — which involved more than twelve
hundred hours of watching the oscillations of a pendulum. If
any one had told Mr. Baily, at the time when the love of excite-
ment and of scenery induced him to pass — not reckoning landings
— about fifty days and nights in an open boat on the Ohio and the
Mississippi, that the time would come when he would sit for as
many hours as put together would make up aU those days and
nights, with his eye at a little telescope, watching and recording
the slow travelling of an index over some wires, — he would have
treated the assertion with laughter, and would have held that his
tastes and views would never fall in with such a monotonous
drudgery. But it did so happen, nevertheless ; and, what is more,
the stimulus was of much the same kind in both cases, and also the
force of character which faced the undertaking: half those hours
were passed under the prospect of failiu'e, aud the mortification
of seeing all go wrong from causes which there seemed no hope
of detecting. The Cavendish experiment will not be the task
of his age to every young man who has been disappointed of a
life of adventure ; but tlien the Cavendish experiment is not the
only path of utility in which energy may find the wholesome wear
and tear for which it longs. The young possessor of this great
moving power is apt to imagine that he has a vocation for one

P.i^EFACE. IX

or another line of active life, — for arms, for the sea, for travel, as
may happen, — not because he has any such vocation, but because
he has the desire of full and stirring occupation, which natu-
rally turns his mind to the pursuits in which it is most ob-
vious to his yet limited sight that his desire can be satisfied.
In hke manner, when he was younger, it will often have hap-
pened, as he must remember, that there was something indis-
pensable in the window of the most come-at-able toyshop, the
absolute necessity of which might be traced to liis having a little
money burning a hole in his pocket. It may be as hard to teach
him now, that inspiriting difficulties are found in every worthy walk
of life, as it was to teach him then, that if he would but wait till
to-morrow he would find sometliing two streets off which he would
like much better than anything at the shop round the corner. But
it is worth the trying. If the comparison of the youth of Francis
Baily with his mature age should persuade some young aspirants to
fame, that every element of human power may conduce to utility, to
distinction, and to happiness, in any field of human action, — this
book will have moral enough. What the writer of it did for others
and for his own reputation, the story of his Life may tell. "What
his pursuits did for his own real good, must be referred to the
memory of those who enjoyed his friendship : among whom there
is assuredly not one who will venture to say positively that he
ever knew a better or a happier man.

A. DE MORGAN.

University College,
London, Febrvari/ Q, 1856.

CONTENTS.

The Nnmhers refer to the Pages.

LIFE OF FKANCIS BAILY, 1.— Birth and Education, 2, 3.—
Tour in America, 4, 70. — Attempts at active Life, 7L — Busi-
ness of a Stockbroker, Works on Annuities, &c., 5-8. —
Astronomy, Paper on Eclipse of Thales, 9, 73. — Eclipse of
Agatliocles, 10. — Epitome of History, 11. — De Beranger's
Trial, 12. — Nautical Almanac, Astronomical Memoirs, 12,
13. — Foundation of Astronomical Society, 14-16. — VarioiLs
Memoirs, 16. — Philosophical Magazine, 17, — Reduction of
Stars, 19. — Catalogue of Astronomical Society, 20. — Election
to Royal Society, Retirement from Business, 21. — Nautical
Almanac, 23. — Pendulum, 25. — Standard of Length, 31, 73.
— Density of the Earth, Cavendish Experiment, 35. — Revision
of Catalogues of the Stars, 40. — Catalogues of Lacaille and
Lalande, 44. — Catalogue of the British Association, 46. —
Nomenclature of Constellations, 47. — Proper Motions of Stars
and Halley's Manuscripts, 48. — Visitation of the Royal Ob-
servatory, 49. — Serious Accident, 50. — 'Annular Eclipse, 50,
51. — Decline and Death, 51, 52. — Chai-acter, 52-60. — List of
Publications, 61-69.— Additions, 70-74.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR, 75.— Embarkation and Storm in the
Downs, 75. — Voyage to Antigua, 78-85. — Description of
Antigua, 87-98. — Departure for Virginia, 99. — Norfolk, 99-
104.— Baltimore, 104-107.— Philadelphia, 110-115.— Route
to New York, 115-119.— New York, 119-124.— Departure
FOR THE West, 124. — Washington, 125-129. — Route to

Xll CONTENTS.

Journal of a Tour continued —

Pittsburgh, 129-143.— Pittsburgh, 144-153.— Voyage down
the Ohio, 153. — Wheeling, 156. — Choice ofWintering Place,
159. — Grave Creek, 160. — Antiquities, 161, 162. — Breaking
up of the Ohio, Loss of the Boat, and Winter Settlement on
the Bank, 164-186. — Resumption of Voyage, 186. — Route to
Columbia, 187-195.— Columbia, 196-202.— Voyage up the
Country, 203-206. — Foundation of the Town of Waynesville,
207-216.— Remarks on the Settlers, 217-221.— Return to
Columbia, 221-224. — Resumption of Voyage down the Ohio,
225.— Cincinnati, 227— Meeting with Colonel Boon, 233.—
Louisville, 239. — Kentucky Titles to Land, 241. — ^Wabash,
246, — Cumberland River, 249. — Tenessee River, 250. — Fort
Massac, 251. — Entrance of the Mississippi, 257. — New Madrid,
261.— Prudhomme, 269.— Chickasaw Bluffs, 270.— Grand Gulf,
277. —Natchez, 279-293.— Red and Black Rivers, 293.—
Chefalaya, 294. — New Orleans, 298. — Remarks on the Mis-
sissippi, 319. — Commencement of Land Journey to Natchez,
331. — Aumete and Commete Rivers, 341-343. — Hona Chito
River, 345. — Natchez, 346. — Departure across the Desert, 349.
— Forks of the Path, 354. — Indian Settlement, 364. — Indian
Town, 376.— Poison Vine, 380.— Tenessee River, 384.— Dan-
gers of crossing, 385-393. — Route to Nashville, 395. — Duck
River, 402.— Harpath River, 407.— Nashville, 411.— Route
to Knoxville, 416. — Caney Fork, 423. — Cumberland Moun-
tains, 427.— Crab Orchard, 432.— Clinch River, 435.— Knox-
ville, 439.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. h.

MEMOIR OF FRANCIS BAILY,

BY

SIR JOHN HERSCHEL, BART.

%* Tins Memoir was draivn up at the request of the Council of the Royal

Astronomical Society, and was read at a Special General Meeting of the

Society, held November 8th, 1814.

In the performance of the melancholy duty imposed on
me by the wishes of the Council, that I should endeavour
on this occasion, to place before the assembled Members
of the Society a sketch of the scientific life and character
of our late lamented President, I have been careful both to
examine my own competency to the task, and to consider
well the proper limits within which to confine myself
in its execution. In the first of these respects, indeed,
though tolerably familiar with some of the leading sub-
jects which I shall have to touch upon, there are others
on which I have seriously felt the want of a longer
interval for preparation. On these, of course, I shall
take care to express myself with becoming diffidence ;
and in so vast a field of laborious inquiry and of minute
yet important research as I shall have to range over, it
may easily be supposed I have more than once found
occasion to wish that the duty had fallen into abler
hands. A duty, however, it is, and a very sacred one,
which we owe to departed merit, to society, and to our-

B

2 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

selves, to fix as speedily as possible, while its impress is
yet fresli and vivid, its features in our minds witli all
attainable distinctness and precision, and to store them
up beyond the reach of change and the treachery of
passing years.

As respects the limits within which I feel it necessary
to confine myself on this occasion, it is to astronomers to
whom I have to speak of an astronomer, — to members of
a large and, in the simplicity of truth I may add, a
highly efficient public body — of an officer to whom more
than to any other individual, living or dead, it owes the
respect of Europe. To make what I have to say complete
as a biography, however interesting to us all, however
desirable in itself, is very far either from my intention
. or my power. Nor is the time fitting for the attempt.
The event is too recent, the particulars which can be
collected at the present moment too scanty, the grief of
surviving relations too fresh, to admit of that sort of
close and pertinacious inquiry into facts, anecdotes,
documents, and evidence, which personal biography
requires to be satisfactory. In this respect, therefore, a
mere sketch is all that I can pretend to give.

Prancis Bailt was born on the 28th of April, 1774,
at Newbury, in the county of Berks. His father was
Mr. Richard Baily, a native of Thatcham^ in the same
county, who became established as a banker at Newbury.
He married Miss Sarah Head, by whom he had five sons
and two daughters. Francis, who was the third son,
received his education at the school of the Rev. Mr. Best,
of Newbury, an establishment of considerable local repu-
tation, where, although probably little of an abstract or
mathematical nature was imparted, the chief elements of

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 3

a liberal and classical education were undoubtedly com-
municated. From his early youth, he manifested a pro-
pensity to physical inquiry, being fond of chemical and
especially of electrical experiments, — a propensity suffi-
ciently marked (in conjunction with his generally
studious habits) to procure from him, among his young
contemporaries, the half-jesting, half-serious sobriquet of
" the Philosopher of Newbury."

It does not appear that he received any further
instruction beyond the usual routine of an establishment
of the kind above mentioned ; so that, in respect of the
sciences, and especially of that in which he attained
such eminent distinction, he must be regarded as self-
educated. This taste for and knowledge of electricity
and chemistry were probably acquired from Dr. Priestley,
with whom, at the age of seventeen, he became intimately
acquainted, and of whom he always continued a warm
admirer. But that his acquaintance with the subject
was considerable, and his attachment to it permanent,
may be concluded from the fact, that Mr. Welsh, the
organist of the parish church of Newbury, who had a
very pretty electrical apparatus, and at whose house I
remember myself to have first witnessed an electrical
experiment, is stated to have imbibed his taste for that
science, and to have acquired its principles, from Mr.
Baily's example and instructions at a somewhat sub-
sequent period.

He quitted Mr. Best's school at fourteen years of age ;
and, having chosen a mercantile life, which accorded
with the views of his parents, he was sent to London,
and placed in a house of business in the City, where he
remained till his twenty-second year, when, having duly

B 2

4 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR,

served his time, and either not feeling an inclination to
the particular line of business in which he had com-
menced his life, or being desirous of the general enlarge-
ment of mind which travel gives, or from mere youthful
love of adventure and enterprise, he embarked for Ame-
rica on the 21st of October, 1795, which, however, he
was not destined to reach without twice incurring the
most imminent danger from shipwreck, both on our own
coast, under most awful circumstances, on the Goodwin
Sands, and off New York, which he was prevented from
reaching, being driven to sea in a gale. After endea-
vouring in vain to reach Bermuda, he was driven into
Antigua, whence he subsequently embarked for Norfolk,
in Virginia.

In America he remained one or two years, travelling
over the whole of the United States and through much
of the western country ; in which travel he experienced,
at various times, much hardship and privation, having,
as I remember to have heard him state in conversation,
(and which must have referred to this period of his life,)
passed eleven months without the shelter of a civilized
roof. During his residence in America, he was not
unmindful of his intellectual and social improvement,
having not only read* much and observed much, as a

* Perhaps the first printed publication of Mr. Baily is a letter
to Mr. Noah Webster, jun., signed F. B., and inserted in McLean's
"New York Gazette," for December 11th, 1797. It is a criticism
on Mr. Webster's English, containing objections, partly just, partly
unfounded. Mr. Webster replied in the same journal for Decem-
ber 12th, repudiating the ordinary grammars, and referring to
his own ; he added, that for a foreigner to throw odium on his
efforts to serve the essential interests of his country, was some-
thing worse than dishonourable. — Ed.

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 5

copious journal which he transmitted home proves, but
formed the acquaintance of some eminent persons, among
whom may be mentioned Mr. EUicot, the Surveyor-
General of the United States, from whom he obtained
some curious information bearing on the periodical dis-
plays of meteors on the 12th November, of which that
gentleman observed a superb instance in 1799, and from
whom it is not impossible he may have acquired a taste
for observations of a more distinctly astronomical and
geographical nature.

Whatever may have been the more direct object of
this journey, if indeed it had any other than to gratify
a youthful inclination for travel and adventure, it does
not appear to have exercised any material influence on
his after-life, since, on his return to England, in place
of immediately entering into business, he continued to
reside for some time with his parents at Newbury, which,
however, at length he quitted for London, to engage in
business as a stock-broker, being taken into partnership
by Mr. Whitmore of the Stock Exchange. The exact
date of this partnership I have not been able to learn.
I believe* it to have been 1801 ; but that it must have
been prior to 1802, may be concluded from the subject
of his first publication, which appeared in that year ;
viz., " Tables for the Purchasing and Renewing of Leases
for Terms of Years certain and for Lives, with Rules for
Determining the Value of the Reversions of Estates after
any such Leases," This work (as well as the next) is
preceded by a highly practical and useful Introduction,
and followed by an Appendix, which shows that at the

* It was about the end of 1799. — Ed.

6 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

age of twenty-eight he had become well versed in the
works of the English mathematicians, and had also con-
sulted those of foreign ones. It speedily attained a
standard reputation on account of its intrinsic utility,
and went through several editions. His next work, a
pamphlet in defence of the rights of the Stock-Brokers
against the attacks of the City of London, printed in
1806, at all events shows him at that time to have
become identified in his feelings and interests with that
body, of which he lived to be an eminent and successful
member. A similar conclusion may be drawn from his
next publication, which appeared in 1808, — "^ The Doc-
trine of Interest and Annuities Analytically Investigated
and Explained/' a work than which no one more com-
plete had been previously published, and which is still
regarded as the most extensive and standard work on
compound interest. It was speedily followed by other
works on the same subject; viz., in 1810, by "The
Doctrine of Life Annuities and Insurances Analytically
Investigated and Explained;" to which, in 1813, he
added an Appendix, This is a work in many ways
remarkable, and its peculiarities are of a highly cha-
racteristic nature ; method, symmetry, and lucid order,
being brought in aid of practical utility in a sul)ject
which had never before been so treated, and old routine
being boldly questioned and confronted with enlarged
experience. A friend of great mathematical attainments
and extensive practical acquaintance with subjects of
this nature, thus characterises it : — " It is not easy to
say too much of the value of this work in promoting
sound practical knowledge of the subject. It was the
first work in which the whole of the subject was

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 7

systematically algebraized ; the first in which inodern
symmetry of notation was introduced ; and the first
modern work, since Price and Morgan, in which the
' Northampton Tables ' were not exclusively employed,
and in which the longer duration of human life was con-
tended for ; and the first in which some attempt was
made to represent by symbols the various cases of
annuities and assurances, afterwards more systematically
done by Mr. Milne." In the Appendix to this work, a
method originally proposed by Mr. Barrett of forming the
tables, by which cases of temporary and deferred an-
nuities, formerly requiring tedious calculations, become
as easy' as the others, and which, in the improved form
subsequently given to it by Mr. Griffith Davies, has come
into very general use in this country, was, by the pene-
tration of Mr. Baily, given to the public, but for which it
would probably have been altogether lost. It may serve
to give some idea of the estimation in which this work
was held, that, when out of print,""' its copies used to sell
for four or five times their original price. A chapter of
this work is devoted to the practical working of the
several life-assurance companies in London, containing
some free remarks on several points of their practice.
Mr. Babbage has subsequently followed in the same line
(as he has also advocated extending the estimation of the

* It was translated into French by M. Alfred De Courcy, and
published at Paris in 1836, in two volumes octavo. A spurious
edition of the original, with an attempt to deceive by imitation of
tyj3e, was handed about for sale among the assurance offices in
I80O, and may now be found on the bookstalls. The means of
distinguishing the spuriovis from the genuine edition may be
found in " Notes and Queries," vol. iv., No. 89. — Ed,

8 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

duration of life to still more advanced ages). However
unpleasing it may be to public bodies, especially com-
mercial ones, to see practices of whose injustice they may
perhaps have been unaware, convicted of it, and made
matter of public animadversion, there can be no doubt
that criticisms of this kind, when really well grounded
and expressed with temperance and moderation, are both
salutary to the parties concerned, and merit, in a high
degree, the gratitude of the public. A higher praise is
due to the candour and lioldness of openly entering the
lists on such occasions, and despising the anonymous
shield of which so many avail themselves.

But while devoting his attention thus assiduously to
matters of direct commercial interest, he could yet find
time for other objects of a more general nature. Astro-
nomical pursuits had already begun to assume in his eyes
that attraction which was destined ultimately to draw
him aside entirely from business, and to constitute at
once the main occupation and the chief delight of his
life. As everything to which he turned his thoughts
presented itself to them, if I may use the expression, in
the form of a palpable reality, a thing to be turned and
examined on all sides, — to be reduced to number, weight,
and measure, — to be contemplated with steadiness and
distinctness, till everything shadowy and uncertain had
disappeared from it, and it had moulded itself, under
his scrutiny, into entire self-consistency, the practical
branches of astronomical calculation early became, in his
hands, instruments of the readiest and most familiar
application, as the touchstones of the truth of its theories,
and the means of giving to them that substantial reality
which his mind seemed to crave as a condition for their

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 9

distinct conception by it. His first astronomical paper,
ou the celebrated solar eclipse, said to have been pre-
dicted by Thales, which was written in November, 1810,
and read before the Royal Society on the 14th March,
1811, affords a remarkable instance of this. That
eclipse had long been a disputed point among chrono-
logists. It was easy to perceive, and accordingly all had
perceived, that an eclipse of the sun, so nearly central as
to produce great darkness, being a rare phenomenon in
any part of the globe, and excessively so in any precisely
fixed locality, must afford a perfectly certain means of
determining the date of a coincident event, if only the
geographical locality be well ascertained, and some
moderate limits of time within which the event must
have happened be assigned, and provided the means were
afforded of calculating back the moon's place for any
remote epoch. In this case, both the locality and the
probable historical limits were sufficiently precise ; and
the account of Herodotus, which agrees only with the
character of a total and not of an annular eclipse, (as
Mr. Baily was the first to remark,) still further limits
the problem. But the tables of the moon employed by
all prior computists were inadequate* to carry back her
place with the requisite exactness, nor was it till the
publication of Burg's " Lunar Tables " that the means of
doing so were in the hands of astronomers. The course
of Mr. Baily 's reading at this period (being then, no
doubt, employed in collecting the materials for the
Chronological Tables in his " Epitome of Universal His-

* Recent improvements in the "Lunar Tables" have shown
that this question must be re-opened. — Ed.

10 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

tory," which appeared not long after) brought him neces-
sarily into contact with this subject. He perceived at
once both the uncertainty of all former calculations of
this eclipse, and the possibility of attacking it with a
fresh prospect of success. None, however, but a con-
summate astronomical calculator would have ventured on
such an inquiry, which involved the computation of all
the solar eclipses during a period of seventy years, six
centuries before the Christian era. These calculations
led him to assign, as the eclipse in question, that of Sep-
tember 30th, B.C. 610, which was central and total,
according to these tables, at the very point where all
historical probability places the scene of action.

Most men would have regarded such a result, obtained
by so much labour, with triumphant complacency : not
so Mr. Baily. His habit of examining things on all sides,
instead of permitting him to rest content witli his con-
clusion^ led him on to further inquiry, and induced him
to calculate the phenomena of another total eclipse
recorded in ancient history, that of Agathocles, which
happened August 15th, B.C. 310, an eclipse of which
neither the date nor the locality admits of any consider-
able uncertainty, and v/hich, therefore, appeared to him
well fitted to test the accuracy of the tables themselves.
Executing the calculation, he found indeed a total eclipse
on the year and day in question, and passing near to the
spot, but not over it. An irreconcilable gap of about
3**, or 180 geographical miles, remains between the most
northerly limit of the total shadow, and the most south-
erly supposable place of Agathocles's fleet. Although
this may justly be looked upon as a wonderful approxi-
mation between theory and historical fact, (indicating, as

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 11

it does, a correction of only 3 ' in the moon's latitude,
for an epoch anterior by more than 21 centuries to that
of the tables^,) yet it did not escape Mr. Baily's notice,
nor did his love of truth permit him to conceal the fact,
that no presumed single correction of the tabular ele-
ments will precisely reconcile both eclipses with their
strict historical statement. There seems, however, no
reason to doubt that the eclipse of 610 B.C. is, in fact,
the true eclipse of Thales. It seems extraordinary that
neither Professor Oltmanns, who investigated the eclipse
of Thales about two years subsequently, and who came
to the same conclusion, nor M. Saint Martin, who read
an elaborate memoir on the same subject to the French
Institute in 1821, should have made any mention of this
very remarkable paper of Mr. Baily.

The " Epitome of Universal History," of which men-
tion has already been made, was published in 1813, and
intended to accompany an " Historical Chart" published
the year before, an extension and improvement of Dr.
Priestley's, in which the political alterations of territory
are represented through the whole of history. It is an
easy and useful work of reference, in which the number
and accuracy of the dates, and the utility of the appended
tables, are especially valuable. There can be little doubt
that the object of this work was much less to produce a
book than to systematise and concinnate the author's
own knowledge. When such a task is undertaken by a
mind at once vigorous in its grasp, and simple, practical,
and natural, in its points of view, it can hardly fail to
result in a picture of the subject where all the parts
are truly placed, and easily apprehended by the general
reader. The Chart with its explanation, forming a dis-

12 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

tinct work, was in considerable request, and went through
three editions in five years.

About the 22nd of January, 1814, occurred the cele-
brated fraud of De Beranger, that being the assumed
name of an impostor employed to bring important but
false intelligence from the scene of war abroad, for the
purpose of influencing the price of the British funds. The
imposture was so adroitly managed, that many bargains
were made on the strength of this intelligence, and much
confusion caused. In the detection and exposure of this
fraud, Mr.Bailyhad a considerable share, and was appointed
by the committee of the Stock Exchange to get up the evi-
dence against the perpetrators, — a task which he is said
to have performed in so masterly a manner, that no more
complete and conclusive chain of evidence was ever pro-
duced in a court The result of these inquiries, and the
steps taken in consequence, were made the subject of
three Reports of the above-mentioned committee, drawn
up by him, and printed in that and the subsequent
year.

From this time, astronomy appears to have been con-
tinually engaging more and more of his attention. The
subject of eclipses and occultations with their connected
calculations, together with that of the improvement of
the " Nautical Almanac," which, whatever might be said
on specific points, had certainly at that time begun to
fall considerably behind the requisitions of astronomical,
and even of nautical science, were those with which he
may be said to have commenced his more active astrono-
mical career. But I wish to call attention at present to
two pamphlets which he published in 1818 and 1819,
respectively, which will afford occasion for some remarks

MEMOIR OF TTIE AUTHOR. 13

of moment. The first of these is a notice of the annular
eclipse of September 7, 1820, whose path lay along the
whole medial line of Europe from north to south. Two
points in this tract merit our attention. In it he adopts
a practice, which he subsequently on a great many occa-
sions adhered to, of introducing in the way of prefatory
statement, a brief but very clear sketch of the history of
the subject, and the observations of former astronomers,
These little historical essays are, for the most part, ex-
tremely well drawn up, and highly interesting, and show
a perfect knowledge of the subjects treated of, drawn
from very extensive reading. The next point, and one of
more importance, is the studious consideration shown
to observers possessed of slender instrumental means, in
pointing out to them modes and forms of observation by
which those means might be rendered available and
useful. At no period of his life himself possessing any
large and elaborate instrument or luxurious appliances,
one of his constant aims was to render astronomical ob-
servation popular and attractive, by showing that much
of a highly useful character might be accomplished with
even moderate instruments. There is no question more
frequently asked by the young astronomer who has pos-
sessed himself of one or two tolerably good instruments
which he desires to employ his time upon, than this,
" How can I make myself useful 1 " Nor any which can
be more readily answered by a reference to the innu-
merable notices on almost every point of practical
astronomy which Mr. Baily from this time forward for
many years continued to scatter profusely to the public,
and which have probably done more to create observers
and to cherish and foster a taste for practical astronomy

14 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

among Englishmen, than any single cause which can be
mentioned.

In 1819 he printed for private distribution a transla-
tion of Cagnoli's memoir on a " Method of Deducing the
Earth's Ellipticitj from Observations of verj Oblique
Occultations," with an appendix recommendatory of the
method, which is precisely such as requires for its perfect
execution only a sufficient telescope, a moderately good
clock, and an observer diligent in watching opportunities.
This was, no doubt, Mr. Baily's chief reason for translating
and distributing it, and for subsequently following it up
by his chart and catalogue of the Pleiades, through which
the moon had to pass at each lunation in 1822 and the
following years, thereby affording admirable opportunities
for applying the principle in question. I should not,
however, have thought it necessary, in the midst of so
many claims on our notice, to draw especial attention to
this work, but fcr one passage in it deeply interesting to
all of us. I mean that in which he alludes to the for-
mation of an Astronomical Society, as an event earnestly
to be desired.

" It is much to be regretted," he observes, " that in
this country there is no association of scientific persons
formed for the encouragement and improvement of astro-
nomy. In almost all the arts and sciences, institutions
have been formed for the purpose of promoting and dif-
fusing a general knowledge of those particular subjects

the beneficial effects of which are too evident to

be insisted on in this place. But astronomy, the most

interesting and sublime of the sciences cannot

claim the fostering aid of any society The forma-
tion of an Astronomical Society would not only afford

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 15

this advantage, but would in other respects be attended
with the most beneficial consequences," &c. &c.

It is thus that coming events cast their shadows
before them. But looking back from this point, as it
were, to the then embryo state of our corporate existence,
it would be ungrateful not to associate with the name of
Francis Baily that of Dr. Pearson, as having at or about
the same time made the same suggestion. It was happily
and speedily responded to, and on Wednesday, the 12th
of January, 1820, a preliminary meeting of the fourteen
founders of our Institution took place, which resulted in
its final establishment, and in which, during the first
three years of its existence, Mr. Baily filled the office of
secretary ; in other words, undertook and executed the
more laborious and essential duties. The establishment
of this society may, indeed, be considered as a chief and
deciding epoch in his life, and to have furnished, though
not the motive, yet, at least, the occasion, for the greater
part of his subsequent astronomical labours. Looking to
it, as every one must do, as a most powerful instrument
for the advancement of the science itself, and the
propagation of a knowledge of and a taste for it among
his countrymen, he yet appeared to regard it as some-
thing more than simply as a means to an end. He
made it an object of personal attachment and solici-
tude, which led him to watch over its infant progress
with parental care, and to spare no exertion in its
behalf. As years passed on, and as the institution flou-
rished, (as every institution must do which is con-
stituted on sound principles, whose members are loyal
to those principles, and willing to work heartily in its
cause), this sentiment, so far from diminishing, seemed

16 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

to grow upon him till he regarded its welfare and
interests as identical with his own. I shall reserve a
more distinct statement of our obligations to him for
a more advanced period of this notice : but, in a nar-
rative of his life, it becomes impossible from this epoch
to separate the Astronomical Society from astronomical
science, in our estimate of his views and motives, or to
avoid noticing the large and increasing devotion to its
concerns of his time and thoughts. To the Transactions
of the new Society he became, as might be expected, a
frequent and copious contributor. In the interval be-
tween the first establishment of the Society and the year
1825 (the reason for this limit will presently be seen)
he contributed five papers, viz. : " On the Meridian Ad-
justment of the Transit Instrument ;" " On the Deter-
mination of Time by Altitudes near the Prime Vertical ;"
" On the Solar Eclipse of September 7th, 1 820 ;" " On the
Mercurial Compensation Pendulum ;" and " On the De-
termination of Longitudes by Moon-culminating Stars."
The two first mentioned of these turn on somewhat ele-
mentary points of astronomical observation, and contain
tables, and suggest facilities, which he had found useful
in his own practice. The eclipse was observed by him at
Kentish Town, where not being annular, he must have
felt severely the sacrifice, imposed probably by the calls
of business, of the opportunity of witnessing by a short
continental trip, a phenomenon which had engaged so
much of his thoughts. His paper on the Mercurial Pen-
dulum, though practical in its object, was of a much
more elaborate kind than any thing which had pre-
viously emanated from him, with exception of his memoir
on the eclipse of Thales. It contains a minute and

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 1/

excellent view of the whole subject of this most useful
compensation ; is prefaced {more suo) with a clear
synoptic view of the then actual state of the sub-
ject, and goes into the whole subject of the expan-
sion of the materials, the formulte for determining
with more precision than heretofore the proportional
length of the mercurial column, and the mode of ad-
justment both for rate and compensation. This paper
must certainly be regarded as a very valuable one,
and an astronomer can hardly be said thoroughly to
understand his clock who does not possess it. The object
of the paper on moon-culminating stars is to recom-
mend, facilitate, and render general, that most useful and
widely available method of determining the longitude on
land.

About this period, also, Mr. Baily began, and thence-
forward continued, to be a frequent contributor to the
" Philosophical Magazine," published by Messrs. Tilloch
and Taylor, of articles interesting in a great variety of
ways to the practical astronomer. These articles are so
numerous, and so miscellaneous in their subject-matter,
that it would be vain to attempt any detailed account of
them, within such limits as I must confine myself to. !Nor,
indeed, is it requisite to do so ; as many of them, how-
ever useful at the time, have now ceased to present any
especial interest, apart from their general object, which
was that of difiusing among the British public a know-
ledge of the continental improvements in the art of ob-
serving, and the practice of astronomical calculation, and
placing in the hands of our observers and computers a
multitude of useful tables and methods, which, though
sure to work their way ultimately into use, were un-

c

18 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

doubtedly accelerated in their introduction into English
practice by coming so recommended. ]\Iore special objects
were those of recommending to general attention and use
certain eminently practical methods, such as those of
determining latitudes by the pole-star, and longitudes by
moon culminations and occcultations, copious lists of which
were, on several occasions, either procured from abroad
and reprinted here, or calculated by himself for the pur-
pose.

The circulation of notices, also, of other remarkable ex-
pected phenomena, with a view to procuring them to be
observed, — the description of newly invented foreign in-
struments, or of such as had been long known, but little
used in England, — the analysis of foreign astronomical
publications, — every thing, in short, which could tend to
excite curiosity, to cherish emulation, and to render the
British astronomical mind more excursive and more awake
than heretofore, found a place in these contributions ; of
which so constant and copious a fire was kept up, as may
well excite our surprise at the industry which sustained,
no less than our admiration of the zeal which prompted it.

A volume of astronomical tables and formulae, printed
in 1827 for private distribution (as was frequently his
custom,) and then largely circulated, but since published
with corrections, is of the utmost convenience and value,
and will be highly prized by every astronomer who may
be fortunate enough to possess a copy, as a work of ready
and continual reference for all the data and coefficients o^
our science. A series of zodiacal charts was also com-
menced by him, but I am not able to say if more than
one plate was engraved.

One of the most practically important and useful

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 19

objects, however, to which Mr. Bailj's attention was
about this period turned, was the facilitating, by tables
properly contrived for the purpose, the reductions of
apparent to mean places of the fixed stars. It seems
almost astonishing that these computations, which lie at
the root of all astronomy, and without which no result
can be arrived at, and no practical observer can advance
a single step, should have remained up to so late a
period as the twentieth year of the nineteenth century,
in the loose, irregular, and troublesome state which was
actually the case, and that not from their theory being ill
understood, but from their practice not having been sys-
tematised. Each of the uranographical corrections had
to be separately computed by its own peculiar tables, and
with coefficients on whose magnitude no two astronomers
agreed. The latter evil, indeed, might be tolerated at a
time when the tenth of a second of space was not consi-
dered of so much consequence as at present, but the cal-
culations were formidable and onerous in the extreme to
private astronomers, whatever they might be rendered in
public establishments by habit and the use of auxiliary
tables. So far as the fundamental stars were concerned,
the subject had for some time attracted attention, and
had begun to receive its proper remedy by the publica-
tion, by Professor Schumacher in Denmark, of their ap-
parent places for every tenth day ; and by the laudable
exertions of Sir James South in our own country, who,
for some years, prepared and circulated similar tables for
every day, not without urgent representations of the
necessity of taking it up as a public concern, which was at
length done. But for stars out of this list, except about
500 somewhat facilitated by Zach, there was no provi-

c 2

20 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

sion of any kind, nor any auxiliary tables to have recourse
to ; so that sidereal astronomy, beyond the bounds of this
favoured list, might be almost said to be interdicted to
the private astronomer, owing to the excessive irksome-
ness of these calculations. This was precisely the sort of
case for Mr. Baily to take pity on. He perceived a desert
where, with a moderate expenditure of capital, a plentiful
harvest might be made to grow, and forthwith proceeded
to remedy the evil. Accordingly, with the aid of Mr.
Gompertz, he investigated the subject generally, and suc-
ceeded in devising a method of arranging the terms of the
corrections for aberration, and solar and lunar precession,
adapted to the purpose, and identical in principle with
that adopted by M. Bessel, who, on his part, was at the
same time, and actuated by the same motives, engaged
on the subject unknown to Mr. Baily. The latter had
actually proceeded to the computation of his tables,
when the labours of Bessel reached his knowledge,
who had, moreover, included the precession under the
same general mode of expression. Mr. Baily, with cha-
racteristic frankness and candour, immediately acknow-
ledged this as an improvement in advance of his own
idea, and at once adopted and recommended it for general
use. He did more : he carried out the idea into a wide
and most useful field ; and in the Catalogue of the Astro-
nomical Society he has put the astronomical world in
possession of a power which may be said, without exag-
geration, to have changed the face of sidereal astronomy,
and must claim for him the gratitude of every observer.
It detracts nothing from the merit of Mr. Baily, or from
his claim to be considered the author of this precious
work, that the numerical computations were chiefly exe-

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 21

cuted bj Mr. Stratford, and the expenses borne by the
Astronomical Society. The conception was all his own,
and the work prefaced, explained, and superintended, in
every stage of its progress, by himself alone. The gold
medal of this Society was awarded to him for this useful
work.

On the 22nd February, 1821, Mr. Baily was elected a
Fellow of the Royal Society. He was also a Member of
the Linnean and Geological Societies ; but I am unable
to state the precise date of his election in either.

In 1825 he retired from the Stock Exchange, after a
career in which his consummate habits of business, his
uprightness, intelligence, and prudence, had established
his fortune, and might, if continued, have led him on to
any eminence of worldly wealth. But there was that in
his disposition which the mere acquisition of wealth could
not satisfy. All that he had before done for his favourite
science seemed only preparatory to what he might do ;
and with the best years of his intellectual life before
him, and with objects worthy of his efforts now opening
to his view in that direction, he resolved henceforward
to devote himself to their pursuit, though at the sacrifice
of prospects whose attractions always prove irresistible to
minds of a lower order. In thus calmly measuring the
relative worth of intellectual and worldly pursuits, and
stopping short in the full career of success, when arrived
at a point which his undazzled judgment assured him to
be the right one, he afforded an example of self-command
as uncommon as it was noble. In the satisfaction which
the decision afforded him, and the complete fulfilment of
those aspirations which led him to form it, we have one
proof (if proofs be wanting) how entirely a well- chosen

22 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

and elevated scientific pursuit is capable of filling that
void in the evening of life, which often proves so intol-
erably irksome to men who have retired early from busi-
ness from mere love of ease or indolence. On no occasion
did he ever appear to regret the sacrifice he had made,
or even to regard it as a sacrifice.

No desire of listless ease or self-indulgence, however,
could by possibility have mixed with Mr. Baily's motives
in taking this step ; for immediately on doing so he
entered on a course of devoted and laborious exer-
tion, which continued without interruption during the
remainder of his life, and of which the history of science
affords few examples. The mass of work which he got
through, when looked at as such, is, in fact, appalling,
and such that there seems difficulty in conceiving how it
could be crowded into the time ; the key to which is,
however, to be found in his admirably conceived metho-
dical arrangement of every piece of work which he
undertook, and his invaluable habit of finishing one
thing before he undertook another.

At this epoch, or very shortly subsequent to it, he
purchased and took up his permanent residence in his
house in Tavistock Place, excellently adapted in every
respect both to his future comfort and convenience as a
place of abode, and for those important and delicate
researches of which it was destined to become the scene ;
standing, as it does, insulated in a considerable garden,
well enclosed on all sides, and, from the nature of the
neighbourhood, free from any material tremor from pass-
ing carriages. A small observatory was constructed in
the upper part, for occasional use and determination of
time, though he never engaged in any extensive series of

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 23

observation. The building in which the earth was
weighed and its bulk and figure calculated, the standard
measure of the British nation perpetuated, and the pen-
dulum experiments rescued from their chief source of
inaccuracy, can never cease to be an object of interest to
astronomers of future generations.

In endeavouring, according to the best of my ability,
to give some account of the astronomical labours of Mr.
Baily subsequent to this period, it will no longer be
advisable to adhere, as I have hitherto done, to the
chronological order in which they were undertaken and
executed. It will rather be preferable (with exception
of a few memoirs and publications of a miscellaneous
nature) to consider them under distinct heads, according
as they refer to one or other of the following subjects,
viz. : — ■

1. The Remodelling of the "Nautical Almanac ;"

2. The Determination of the Length of the Second' s-Pendulum ;

3. The Fixation of the Standard of Length ;

4. The Determination of the Density of the Earth ;

5. The Revision of the Catalogues of the Stars ;

G. The Reduction of Lacaille's and Lalande's Catalogues ; and,
7. The Formation of a New Standard Catalogue.

The " Nautical Almanac." — The end of the eighteenth
and the commencement of the nineteenth century are
remarkable for the small amount of scientific movement
going on in this country, especially in its more exact
departments. It is not that individuals were not here
and there busied in extending the bounds of science even
in these, but they met with little sympathy. Their
excursions were limited by the general restriction of view
which had begun to prevail, and by a sense of loneliness

24 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

and desertion (if I may use such an expression) arising
from that want of sympathy. Mathematics were at the
last gasp, and astronomy nearly so ; I mean, in those
members of its frame which depend upon precise mea-
surement and systematic calculation. The chilling tor-
por of routine had begun to spread itself largely over all
those branches of science which wanted the excitement
of experimental research. I know that I have been
blamed on a former occasion for expressing this opinion ;
but it is not the less true, though we may now happily
congratulate ourselves that this inanimate period has
been succeeded by one of unexampled activity. To
break the dangerous repose of such a state, and to
enforce that exertion which is necessary to healthy life,
there is always need of some degree of friendly violence,
which, if administered without rudeness, and in a kindly
spirit, leads at length the revived patient to bless the
disturbing hand, however the urgency of its application
might for a moment irritate. It is in this light that we
are to regard the earnest and somewhat warm remon-
strances of Mr. Baily on the deficiencies which had long
begun to be perceived and felt in the "Nautical
Almanac," in its capacity of an astronomical ephemeris.

The subject once moved gave rise to a great deal of
discussion, from more than one quarter, which was from
time to time renewed for some years ; but as I have no
intention to make this notice an occasion of dilating on
any matter of a controversial nature, I shall merely add
that, on the dissolution of the late Board of Longitude,
followed almost immediately by the death of Dr. Young,
on whom the charge of its superintendence rested, (the
new Berlin Ephemeris, by Encke, having also recently

MEMOm OF THE AUTHOR. 25

appeared, in which many of the principal improvements
contended for were adopted,) it seemed fitting to the
Lords Commissioners of tlie Admiralty to place unre-
servedly before the Astronomical Society the subject of
a complete revision and remodelling of that great national
work — a high proof of confidence, which speaks volumes
for the good sense, prudence, and activity which had
continued to pervade its administration during the ten
years which had now elapsed since its first institution.

It is hardly necessary to add that this important
business received the most unremitting attention from
Mr. Baily, as well as from every other member of the
Committee in all its stages. To him also was confided
the task of drawing up the final report of the Committee
appointed to carry out the wishes of the Admiralty,
which will be found in the fourth volume of our " Me-
moirs," and which is a model of good sense, clearness,
and lucid arrangement. The Report was immediately
acted upon by Government, and the result was the pre-
sent British " Nautical Almanac ; " a work which, if it
continue to be carried on, as I trust it ever will, on
the principles which prevailed in its reconstruction, will
remain a perpetual monument to the honour of every
party concerned in it.

The " Pendulum." — The second's-pendulum having
been constituted the legal source from which, in the
event of the loss of the national standard of length, the
yard might at any time be recovered, it may be easily
imagined with what intensity of interest the announce-
ment was received among all conversant with these
fundamental determinations, that a very material correc-
. tion had been entirely overlooked in the reduction of the

26 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

experiments, on which the Act of 5 Geo. IV. c. 74, was
founded. This correction is, in fact, no other than the
correction due to the resistaJice of the air, and, placed in
this light, it would seem somewhat wonderful that such
an oversight could have been committed ; but it had
been customary to consider the effect of resistance on the
time of vibration to be wholly confined to its influence
in diminishing the arc ; and this secondary effect being
allowed for in the formulae employed to compute what is
called the correction for the arc of vibration, the primary
or direct effect of resistance dropped altogether out of
notice, or rather (owing to an entire misconception of the
nature of the mechanical process by which resistance is
operated) had been supposed to be altogether inappre-
ciable in its amount. The real effect of resistance,
though under a somewhat confused statement as to its
nature, had, however, been long before noticed, and its
amount even ascertained with tolerable correctness, by
the Chevalier Buat, in 1786 ; but his experiments and
theory had so entirely fallen into oblivion as to have
escaped the notice not only of Captain Kater, but of his
own countrymen, Borda and Biot, and were unknown
even to Bessel himself, who, in 1828, rediscovered the
correction in question, and, for the first time, made it an
integrant feature in the modern system of pendulum
reductions. The light in which this correction was
placed by Buat, and even in some respects by Bessel,
tended not a little, in my opinion, to obscure the clear
perception of its nature, by representing it as due to a
certain portion of air adhering to and bodily dragged along
by the pendulum in its motion, thus adding to its inertia
without adding to its relative weight when corrected for

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 27

buoyancy ; and in this view, also, Mr, Baily regarded it.
That this is not a complete and adequate view of the sub-
ject, is easily made a matter of ocular inspection, by causing
a pendulum to vibrate, or any body to move, near the
flame of a candle, when it will be at once evident that the
movement of the air consists in the continual transfer of
a portion of air from the front to the rear of the body,
by performing a circuit half round it. Its hydrodyna-
mical investigation, therefore, is of an infinitely higher
order of difficulty than the ordinary problems of resist-
ance, which turn upon a theory of molecular impulse,
simple indeed, but very far from satisfactory. It pro-
perly refers itself to the theory of sound, and has, in
fact, been so investigated in an admirable memoir by
Poisson.'''"

But to return from this digression, (which, however,
will not have been without its use, if it shall tend to
diffuse clear conceptions of the subject, and to disentangle
from one another corrections which seem to have got
unduly mixed up together in the minds of practical
inquirers.) No sooner were the ideas of M. Bessel pro-
mulgated in England, than Captain Sabine, whose atten-
tion was pointedly directed to a subject which had
occupied so large and active a portion of this life, resolved

* If this view of the subject be correct, as I am persuaded it is,
it seems not impossible that, by making a section of the pendukim
coincident in form with the " wave-formed outline " of Mr. Kussel's
ships, the resistance correction might be annihilated altogether, or
so nearly as to render it quite inappreciable.

I trust that, in what is said above, I shall not be supposed to
undervalue M. Bessel's analytical treatment of this intricate pro-
blem, especially as it conducts to results which, regarded as a first
approximation, represent sufficiently well the results of experience.

28 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

to ascertain the true amount of this new, or newlj-
mentioned, correction, in the only way in which it could
be effectually done^ viz., by vibrating the pendulum in
vacuo, which he accordingly effected by a series of highly
interesting experiments, carried on at the Royal Observa-
tory at Greenwich, and recorded in the " Philosophical
Transactions," in a paper read March 12, 1829. His
result makes the total reduction to a vacuum about
one and two-thirds of that usually called " the correction
for buoyancy." It should, however, be borne carefully
in mind, that the particular correction now in question
has, in fact, nothing whatever to do with the buoyancy
correction, either in its mode of production or its form
of expression, and ought, therefore, to be very studiously
kept apart from it in all theoretical views, though, of
course, they must be numerically amalgamated in the
" reduction to a vacuum."

Meanwhile the attention of Mr. Baily had, about the
same time, been called to the pendulum, in consequence
of- the contemplated expedition about to sail under the
command of Captain Foster, on that memorable and most
unfortunate expedition which cost him his life. It was
on this occasion, and with a view to the use of this expe-
dition, that Mr. Baily (still acting for the Astronomical
Society, whose aid had been requested in suggesting
useful objects of inquiry) devised that capital improve-
ment in the system of itinerant pendulum observation,
which consists in making each transferable pendulum a
convertible one, by the simple addition of another knife-
edge, and in doing away with extra apparatus of tail-
pieces, sliders, &c., by the initial adjustments of the in-
strument. And I may here incidentally remark, that.

MEMOIR OP THE AUTHOR. 29

the general principles of reducing, as far as possible, the
number of moveable parts in every instrument intended
for standard determinations of whatever kind, is one
which cannot be too strongly recoemranded, and has been
successfully acted on by the present Astronomer Royal
[Mr. Airy] in more than one recent construction. Two
peudula, a copper and an iron one, on Mr. Baily's prin-
ciple, were furnished by tlie Society for this expedition,
an account of which may be found in the " Notices" of
the Society for June 13, 1828.

The adjustment and trial of these pendula previous
to the sailing of the expedition, were performed by Mr.
Baily at his own house, and, thus engaged in actual
experiment, he at once became led on into a minute
examination of all the possible sources of practical error
in the experiments, and consequent uncertainty in the
important results of which they had become the basis.
It was in this stage of his experience that he became
acquainted with Professor Bessel's results, which deter-
mined him (as they had already done Captain Sabine) to
go into the whole subject of the new correction by ex-
periments performed in vacuo. But not content with
assuming any fixed proportionality between it and the
buoyancy correction, he resolved so to vary the form,
magnitude, and materials of the vibrating masses, as to
make its true nature and amount an object of inductive
experimental inquiry ; thus, though adopting the lan-
guage of Buat and Bessel, disengaging himself in effect
from any theoretical view of the modus operandi or
mechanical process by which the effect was produced.

The result of these inquiries was a very elaborate and
masterly paper read to the Royal Society on the 31st of

30 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

May, 1832, containing the results of experiments in air
and in vacuo, on upwards of eighty pendulums of various
forms and materials, by which the new correction is
clearly shown to depend not only on the dimensions, but
on the form and situation of the vibrating body. Inde-
pendent of the excellence of this paper as a specimen of
delicate experimental inquiry and induction, in which, to
use the expression of one best capable of appreciating and
admiring them, his generalizing powers seem to have been
held in abeyance till the right moment for their exercise
arrived, it had the further merit of bringing into distinct
notice a number of minute circumstances, (important, how-
ever, from their influence on results,) chiefly relative to
the mode of suspension, which it is absolutely necessary
to attend to in these delicate and difficult inquiries, if the
pendulum be ever again resorted to as a means of verifying
or fixing anew the standard of length.

The return of the Chanticleer in 1831, without its
lamented commander, threw the whole task of arranging
and digesting for publication Captain Foster's pendulum
observations on Mr. Baily — a labour of love, prompted by
the warmest friendship, and which he executed in the
spirit of one determined to erect a monument to the fame
of that truly amiable and talented officer, of the most
durable and precious materials. His report on the subject
to the Admiralty was presented by the Lords Commis-
sioners to the Council of the Astronomical Society, and
printed at the expense of Government as the seventh
volume of our " Memoirs." In this report the observa-
tions are given in full, and with the most scrupulous
fidelity, and those at each of the numerous stations dis-
cussed with the utmost care. The final re-examination

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 31

of the pendulums in London, was also personally executed
by Mr. Baily, and the whole series of stations combined
into a general result, which gives for the ellipticity
of the earth §89^. Not content with this, he has here
also collected into one synoptic view the results ob-
tained at various stations all over the globe with the
invariable pendulum, by observers of all nations, so as to
place them in comparison with each other, and to deduce
from them a general result. Of these, by far the most
numerous and prominent, in every respect, are those of
our own countrymen. Captains Foster and Sabine ; and
nothing can be more gratifying, in estimating our own
national share in this sublime application of science, than
to find these principal authorities, whose observations
were made and reduced with the most absolute indepen-
dence of each other, agreeing at all the stations where
they admit of comparison, with a precision truly admirable.
In fact, the greatest disagreement of each of their final
results, from a mean of them both, amounts to a quantity
less than half a vibration out of 86400, or in a mean
solar day.*

" Standard of Length." — From the pendulum to the
standard of length, or the fixation of the scientific unit,
the transition is easy, and in Mr. Baily's case was un-
avoidable. For, being once satisfied by experience of
the innumerable minute circumstances on which perfect
precision in these inquiries depends, and finding the

* The stations of comparison are London, Maranham, Ascension,
and Trinidad. Taking London for a term of departure, each
station aflfords a ratio whose extremes (see " Report," p. 86) differ
only by 0-0000103, the half of which multiplied by 86400 gives
0H4446.

32 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

parliamentary enunciation of the relation between the
conventional and natural standards nullified, as it were,
under his eye, he felt himself irresistibly urged to inquire
how far the conventional unit itself might be depended
upon, and within what limits of error it might certainly
be reproduced in copies. His first step in this direction
was to obtain the most perfect possible representative of
this unit, and (as the Astronomical Society was now
identified with almost all his undertakings) justly con-
sidering the possession of such a standard by that body
as a thing in itself desirable, and the instrument itself
likely, if thoroughly well executed, to become in its hands
of universal scientific reference, he procured himself to
be named by the Council a Committee for superintend-
ing its execution, and comparing it with the most
authentic standards at present existing in this country.
Perhaps there is no subject of inquiry more perplexing,
or one whose investigation calls for more patience and
perseverance, than the detection and exact estimation of
those minute sources of error which influence these deli-
cate measurements, which can only be satisfactorily per-
formed by endless repetition and systematic variation of
every circumstance by which error can possibly be intro-
duced. Another and peculiar source of annoyance, and
even vexation, consisted in the rough and careless usage
to which those precious instruments, on which the con-
servation of our national units depends, had been sub-
jected in too many instances, by which rude and ignorant
hands had irrecoverably marred some of those refined pro-
ductions of human workmanship, which ought not even
to be approached but with precaution, or touched but
with the utmost delicacy. Few things seem to have

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 33

excited Mr. Bailj's indignation more than the continual
occurrence of evidence, only too palpable, of the small
respect in which these standards appear to have been
held by those under whose protection they had been
placed, and of the violence which has been repeatedly
suffered to be perpetrated on them.

I shall by no means go into any minute analysis of
the admirable " Report" to the Council of this Society,
which contains his account of the construction of our
standard scale, its comparison with the parliamentary
standard, and its most authentic existing representatives
— and with the French metre, as we have it represented
in this country by two platina metres, in the possession
of the Royal Society ; or the means taken to secure it
from loss, by the formation of carefully compared copies,
two of which have been sent abroad, and two retained in
England. Suffice it to say, that the delicacy of the
means employed, the minuteness of the precautions used,
and the multiplicity of the comparisons, surpassed every
thing of the kind which had ever before been done in
this country. This Report, too, is valuable in another
way. Under the modest title of "A Short History of
the Standard Measures of this Country," it presents a
summary of the subject so complete as almost to obviate
the necessity of referring elsewhere for historical infor-
mation.*

* Mr. Baily was assisted in the actual comparisons by several
Fellows of the Society, among whom the late Lieut. Murphy was
conspicuous, an observer whose temper and scientific habits pecu-
liarly fitted him for co-operating with Mr. Baily, and whose name
would probably have occurred more than once in this memoir but
for his untimely death, which took place in the service of Astro-

D

34 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

The immediate result of this useful and most laborious
undertaking has been to put this Society in possession
of, perhaps, the most perfect standard measure and
divided scale in existence, in which every division, even
to the individual inches, has been micrometrically veri-
fied, and its errors ascertained and placed on record. It
would almost seem, too, as if a prophetic spirit had actuated
the undertaking, and urged it to its completion without
any of those delays which so often and proverbially
attend the construction and optical examination of deli-
cate instruments. For the comparison of the new scale
with the imperial standard yard had hardly been com-
pleted six months, when the latter, together with the
other original standard by Bird (that of 1758), as well
as the imperial standard of weight, were destroyed in the
conflagration of the Houses of Parliament in October
1834. Thus the operation in question has been the
fortunate means of preserving, to the latest posterity,
that unit which has pervaded all our science, almost
from the first dawn of exact knowledge.

The scientific unit is indeed preserved ; but the nation
remained, and remains up to this moment, without a
legal standard either of weight or measure. In the early
part of 1838, however, in consequence (as I have been
led to understand) of some communications on the sub-
ject between Mr. Baily, Mr. Bethune, and the Astronomer
Royal, the latter was induced to draw the attention of
Government to the subject, an occasion having arisen
which rendered the mention in an official form unavoid-
able. And on the 1 1 th of May of the same year a com-

nomy in a distant region, and was probably the unfortunate con-
sequence of over-exertion in its cause.

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 35

mission was appointed, consisting of seven* members
(Mr. Bailj being one), to report on the course most advis-
able to be pursued under these circumstances. To this
duty, which involved the hearing of a vast deal of evi-
dence and much personal attendance, Mr. Baily gave his
unceasing attention ; suggesting many valuable points,
both practical and theoretical ; and, on the Report of
the Commission being agreed on, and the practical forma-
tion of new standards, in conformity with the view
therein taken of the subject, being referred by Govern-
ment to the same commissioners, Mr. Baily undertook,
to the general satisfaction of the whole body, and at
their particular request, the delicate and important task
of reconstructing the standard of length — a task which,
unhappily, he did not live to complete. On whomsoever
mayt devolve the completion of this standard, it will be
satisfactory to the Members of this Society to know that,
among the evidence adduced for its restoration, the scale
prepared for it by Mr. Baily necessarily forms a most im-
portant and prominent feature.

" Density of the Earth." — The accurate determination
of one fundamental quantity naturally leads to inquiry
into others. To make our globe the basis of measure-
ment for the dimensions of the planetary system and of

* An eighth was subsequently added.

t The task was undertaken by Mr. Sheepshanks, one of Mr.
Baily's most devoted friends, who gave it, during eleven yeai's, an
amount of thought and labour which will be but poorly collected
even from the report of his proceedings now preparing. The number
of recorded micrometer observations falls but five hundred short u^i
ninety thousand. Mr. Sheepshanks died August 4, 1855, almoat
on the day on which his results received a legal sanction. — Ejj.

36 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOE.

the visible universe, its form and magnitude must first
be accurately known. To make it afi'ord a scale by
which the masses and attractive forces of the sun and
planets can be expressed in terms conveying a positive
meaning, its density must be ascertained, as compared
with that of substances which occur on its surface, with
which our experience is familiar, and from which our
notions of material existence are drawn. The fine expe-
riment of Cavendish, confirmed as it was, in its general
result, by the operations on Schehallien, had satisfactorily
demonstrated the continuity of the Newtonian law of
gravity, from such vast distances as astronomy is con-
versant with, through the intermediate steps of the
diameters of the earth, and of a mountain, down to those
minute intervals which intervene between the parts of a
philosophical apparatus, and their agreement within as
moderate limits as could have reasonably been expected,
— -and had even led to something like a probable estimate
of the earth's density, which, however, could never be
regarded as satisfactory, otherwise than as a first step
towards more precise determinations. Mr. Baily's
labours, therefore, on the pendulum were hardly brought
to a conclusion, when he was led to enter upon this
subject, the immediate occasion of his doing so being
an incidental suggestion at the council table, by Mr.
De Morgan, of the desirableness of repeating the experi-
ment of Cavendish,'"' — a suggestion immediately seconded

* Fiat justitia, mat coelum. The original design of this beau-
tiful experiment was Michell's, who actually constructed the
identical apparatus which Cavendish used, but died before he could
execute the experiment. The apparatus came, after his death,
into the possession of the Rev. "W". H. Wollaston, D.D., toho gave

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 37

both by the Astronomer Royal and by Mr. Baily. The
experience of the latter had shown him how indispensably
necessary, in such inquiries, are extensive repetition and
variation of circumstance. The Schehallien experiment,
from its very nature, admitted of neither ; and, on care-
fully examining Cavendish's record of his own experi-
ment, he found abundant reason to perceive how much
was left to be desired, in both these respects, even in
that form of the inquiry.

In resolving on ^a repetition of this experiment, the
difficulty of the undertaking itself, and his own prepara-
tion for it, must have been, and no doubt were, very
seriously considered. However confident in his own
resources and perseverance, it was no holiday task in
which he was now about to engage. The pendulum
experiments, with all their delicacy, conld hardly be
regarded as more than an elementary initiation into the
extreme minuteness necessary for this inquiry. There
are two branches of research in physical astronomy which
task to the utmost the resources of art, the delicacy of
manipulation, and the perseverance of the inquirer, — the
parallax of the fixed stars, and the density of the earth.
In both, an immense object has to be grasped by the
smallest conceivable handle. But, of the two problems,
the latter is probably that which throws the greatest
burden on the inquirer, inasmuch as it is not merely a

it to Cavendish, who used it, indeed, to excellent purpose, but
who assuredly neither devised the experiment, nor invented, nor
constructed, nor even, so far as I can perceive, materially improved
the apparatus. All this is distinctly stated by Cavendish himself,
who is, therefore, noway to blame for any misconception which
may prevail on the subject.

38 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

series of observations to be carried on under well-ascer-
tained circumstances and known laws, but a course of
experiraents to be entered on for eliminating or controlling
influences which war against success in every part of
the process, and where every element, nay, even the
elementary powers of heat, electricity, magnetism, the
molecular movements of the air, the varying elasticity of
fibres, and a host of ill-understood disturbing causes, set
themselves in opposing array in their most recondite and
unexpected forms of interference. Nor could it have
been overlooked by him that it was necessary, not merely
to do over again what Cavendish had done before him, —
a thing in itself not easy, — but to do it much more
thoroughly and effectually.

Mr, Baily, however, was not to be discouraged by such
considerations. He saw that there existed a blank in
our list of exact data which it was necessary to fill, and
he felt himself in possession of those gifts of nature and
position which enabled him to fill it. Accordingly, in
1835, on the occasion above alluded to, the Astronomical
Society appointed a committee to consider the subject ;
and Mr. Baily having offered to perform the experiment,
in 1837, the Government (at the instance of Mr. Airy)
granted the liberal sum of ^^500 to defray the cost.

This great work was brought to a satisfactory conclu-
sion in 1842, and a complete account, with a full detail
of the experiments, printed in one volume, published in
1843, forming the fourteenth of the series of "Memoirs*'
of this Society. The experiments were varied with
balls of different materials, and with suspensions no
less various, combined so as to form no less than 62
distinct series, embodying the results of 2,153 experi-

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 39

ments ; and which, formed into groups according to
the nature of the combination, afford 36 distinct
results, taking those only in which the balls were used,
the extremes of which are 5*847 and 5'507, and the
most probable mean 5*660, none of them being so low
as Cavendish's mean result, 5'448. The probable error
of the whole (0-0032) shows that the mean specific
gravity of this our planet is, in all human probability,
quite as well determined as that of an ordinary hand-
specimen in a mineralogical cabinet, — a marvellous
result, which should teach us to despair of nothing which
lies within the compass of number, weight, and measure.
I ought not to omit mentioning, that, of all the five
determinations of this element we possess, Mr. Baily's is
the highest.*

Though it would be equally remote from my present
purpose, and superfluous in presence of such an assembly,
to enter minutely into a discussion of these experiments,
there is one point in their conduct which I cannot pass
over in silence. The experiments had been carried on
for eighteen months, a vast number of preliminary trials
had been made, and upwards of one thousand registered
results obtained, when it became apparent that the coin-
cidence of Cavendish's results, one with another, was

* The five determinations alluded to are, in order of magnitude,

as follows : —

Schehallien experiment from Play- ) Max...4'867 )

r ■ , . . . , ■ L.. , y Mean... 4-713

lairs data and calculations ... J Min...4-5o9 j

Carlini, from pendulum on Mont Cenis, corrected by Giulio 4-950

Eeicli, Rej^etition of Cavendish's experiment (most probable

combination) ... ... ... ... ... ... 5-438

Cavendish, Computation corrected by Baily ... ... 5-448

Baily (most probable combination) ... .. ... ... 5-660

40 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

rather to be attributed to the paucity of his trials than
to any especial accuracy in his observations or felicity in
his mode of operating. Even in the few experiments
made by Cavendish, discordances had shown themselves,
of which no account could be given other than by refer-
ence to the movements of included air ; but, on Mr.
Baily's extensive scale of operation, the limits of disagree-
ment obviously arising from this cause became so enor-
mous as to render it hardly possible to draw any line for
the reception and rejection of results. In fact, at one
period he had almost begun to despair of bringing the
matter to any positive conclusion. The happy suggestion
of Mr. Forbes, to gild the torsion-box and leaden balls,
at once dispelled all this vagueness and uncertainty, and
reduced the results to a high degree of uniformity.'"'
Most experimenters would have been content to reject
the discordant results. Mr. Baily unhesitatingly sacri-
ficed the whole, and began anew, without appearing to
regard with an instant's regret the time and labour lost.
The gold medal of this Society was awarded to him for
this important memoir.

" Revision of Catalogues of the Stars." — The contribu-
tions of Mr. Baily to this branch of sidereal astronomy
are so numerous and so important, as alone would suffice
to rank him among the greatest benefactors to the
science, since, without being himself an observer, he has
conferred, by his indefatigable industry and perseverance

* This was not, however, the only precaution used. Mr. Baily
carried out the suggestion, by swathing the torsion-box in flannel,
and applying over this defence an exterior gilded case. Should
the experiment ever again be repeated, it should be attempted
in vacuo.

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 41

in collating authorities, rescuing original observations
from oblivion, and rectifying printed errors, a vast and
unhoped-for accession of value to the works of all those
on whom he has commented. In fact, this, which may
be termed the archaeology of practical astronomy, formed
his staple and standing work, which, though from time
to time interrupted by other subjects, was always
resumed ; always with increasing interest, and always on
a larger and more effective scale, up to the very year of his
death. His object appears to have been, so far as is now
practicable, to destroy the gap which separates us from
the elder astronomers, and to multiply, or at least to
preserve from further destruction, the links which con-
nect us with them ; to ascertain all that has really been
recorded of the stars, and to make that totality of know-
ledge the common property of astronomers — a precious
and a pious labour, of which we have no examples, except
in that spirit of loyal reverence which prompted Ptolemy
to secure from oblivion the observations of Hipparchus,
and make them the foundation of all future astronomy ;
and in that which animated Bessel, when on the basis of
Bradley's observations he may be said to have afforded the
means of reconstructing the whole fabric of the science.

The catalogues which Mr. Baily has re-edited are those
of Ptolemy, XJlugh Beigh, Tycho Brahe, Halley, Hevelius,
Flamsteed, Lacaille, and Mayer ; a mass of commenta-
tion, expurgation, and minute inquiry before which the
most stout-hearted might quail, since there is not one of
them in which each individual star has not been made the
subject of a most scrupulous and searching examination,
and in which errors that had escaped all prior detection,
— errors of reading, errors of entry, of copying, of calcu-

42 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

lation, of printing, out of number, — have not been
detected and corrected. Bat for these labours, the cata-
logues of Ptolemy and Ulugh, indeed, must have remained
sealed books to any but professed antiquaries ; and
although we can now hardly ever have occasion to appeal
to these earliest authorities for any practical purpose, we
cannot but look on the labour thus cheerfully bestowed
in embalming and consecrating their venerable relics as
the sure pledge that our own works, if really worthy, will
not be suffered to perish by time and neglect.

But while we admire both the diligence and the
scrupulous exactness, of which the notes appended to
these catalogues bear ample evidence, we must not omit
to mention, that there are two of them, those of Mayer
and Flamsteed, in respect of which Mr. Baily's researches
have been pushed far beyond the mere duties of compa-
rison and comment, having been extended to the con-
servation and minute examination of the original records
from which the catalogues were formed. In the case of
Mayer, his influence with the late Board of Longitude
secured the publication (in 1826) of the original obser-
vations of that eminent astronomer at Gottingen, which
had never before seen the light. In the case of Flamsteed,
his labours were much more extensive, and require a more
particular statement, inasmuch as not only Flamsteed's
greatest work, the "British Catalogue," found in him
its restorer to that high rank, as an astronomical docu-
ment, which it is justly entitled to hold, but the fame
and character of its author their defender and rescuer
from grievous misa2)prehension and mistatement.

In 1832 it happened, by a most singular coincidence,
that Mr. Baily became aware of the existence, in the pos-

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 43

session of his opposite neighbour in the same street,
E. Giles, Esq., of the whole of Flarasteed's autograph letters
to Abraham Sharp, and was permitted to peruse and
copy them. Their perusal convinced him that Flamsteed's
life, astronomical labours, and personal character, had
never been fairly placed before the world, and induced
him to examine with care the mass of his papers pre-
served (or rather neglected and mouldering) at Green-
wich. His first care was to arrest the progress of their
further decay : his next, to avail himself of the original
entries of the observations, and of the manuscript records
of the computations founded on them, to trace out the
sources, and to rectify the numerous errors and incon-
sistencies of the "British Catalogue" as it then stood
before the world, and to present it to the public under
quite a new aspect — as a noble monument of its author's
skill and devotion, and a work worthy of the age and
country which produced it. Among the papers thus
examined, however, were also found an almost complete
autobiography of Flamsteed, and a voluminous corre-
spondence illustrative of those points so painfully at issue
between Flamsteed, Newton, and Halley, relative to the
publication of the Catalogue and observations, and to
other matters of a more personal nature, which had hitherto
all along been stated in an infinitely more unfavourable
light towards Flamsteed than that which appears, from
Mr. Baily's thorough and voluminous exposition of the
whole afiair, and the evidence of the almost innumerable
letters which he has printed at length, truly and properly
to belong to them. Indeed it seems impossible not to
admit, on the evidence here produced, that great and
grievous injustice was done, and hardship imposed, in

44 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR,

these transactions, on Flamsteed, whose character stands
forward, on the whole showing, as that of a most devoted
and painstaking astronomer, working at extreme disad-
vantage, under most penurious arrangements on the part of
government, making every sacrifice, both personal and
pecuniary, and embroiled (as I cannot help considering,
by the misrepresentations and misconduct of Halley)
with the greatest man of his own or any other age, hold-
ing a position with respect to the Observatory, as Visitor,
which, under mistaken impressions of the true bearings
of the case, might cause severity to assume the guise of
public duty.

The volume which contains this important work of
Mr. Baily was commenced (as we have seen) in 1832, and
published in 1835, a rapidity of execution truly astonish-
ing, when we consider that the volume extends to nearly
800 pages quarto ; that the notes to the Catalogue alone
occupy no less than 144 of them, closely printed, not
a line of which but involves some question of identity, of
nomenclature, of arithmetical inquiry, or of reference to
other authorities ; that the examination and selection of
the letters and other biographical matter for publication
was a matter of the utmost delicacy and responsibility ;
and that the preface, which contains Mr. Baily's own
summary of Flamsteed's life, the introduction to the
Catalogue and the Supplement, in further vindication oT
Flamsteed's character and justification of his own views
of it, — are all of them works of a very elaborate nature,
and of the highest interest.

" Catalogues of Lacaille and Lalande." — But Mr.
Baily's views were not confined to the mere correction of
existing catalogues. The labour of the commentator and

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 45

collator, which has filled and satisfied so many minds,
was to him only a means to an end of real practical im-
portance. His aim was to render readily available to
every astronomer all recorded observations of the sidereal
heavens which could be depended on. Two great masses
of observation might be said to exist buried under their
own weight, and aff"ording matter of grief and reproach
to astronomy, now to be exchanged for congratulation
and triumph. These were Lacaille's observations at the
Cape of nearly 10,000 stars, and those of D'Agelet and
Michel Lefranqais Lalande at Paris, of nearly 50,000.
Neither of these collections of observations had been
more than partially reduced. Lacaille himself had per-
formed this task for 1942 of his stars. A considerable
number of the stars of the " Histoire Celeste" (Lalande's
observations) had also been reduced and catalogued by
Bode. But the great mass of both remained unreduced
and unarranged, though it is true that Lacaille had
accompanied each page of his observations with a table
of reductions, and that in 1825, Professor Schumacher
had published and dedicated to this Society a volume of
assistant tables, enabling any one, with little trouble, to
reduce any single observation of the '^ Histoire Celeste."
Still they remained unreduced, and, therefore, useless,
except on those rare occasions when, for special reasons,
it might be necessary to search out and reduce any parti-
cular object.

Thus was a treasure of great value held in abeyance.
This Mr. Baily perceived, and after some correspondence
with the French Bureau des Longitudes, which, however,
led to no result, he resolved to bring the subject before
the British Association. That liberal and energetic body

46 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

at ouce acceded to his views, and in 1838 appointed two
committees, each with funds at their disposal, to execute
the reductions and prepare the catalogues. The reduc-
tion and arrangement of Lacaille's stars was executed
under the superintendence of Mr. Henderson, that of
Lalande's under Mr. Bailj, the arrangement of the work
in both (if I mistake not) having been effected on a
plan concerted and matured bj the latter. Both works
were reported as complete (the prefaces alone excepted)
in 1843, and it only remained to provide for their print-
ing. This also was done by the liberality of the British
government, who assigned £1000 for the purpose; and
this work was especially placed under Mr. Baily's direc-
tion. These catalogues, unhappily, he did not live to
see published. The printing, however, of each was
found advanced at his decease as far as 8320 stars,* and
is now continuingf under the more immediate inspection
and superintendence of Mr. Stratford.

" Catalogue of the British Association." — I have yet to
speak of another and a magnificent work undertaken
and brought to a successful conclusion by Mr. Baily ; a
work which, perhaps, deserves to be considered as the
greatest boon which could have been conferred on practical
astronomy in its present state, and whose influence will
be felt in all its ramifications, giving to them a coherence
and a unity which it could hardly gain from any other
source. I allude to the general standard catalogue of
nearly 10,000 stars, which the British Association are

* The total number of stars in the two catalogues respectively,
will amount to 9,766, and 47,400.

t See the additions to the list of works at the end of this
memoir. — Ed.

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 47

about to publish, at the instance of Mr. Baily. The
plan of this great and useful work is an extension of that
of the Astronomical Society, of which I have already
spoken. The stars (selected by Mr. Baily) form a uni-
versal system of zero-points, comprehending probably
every star of the sixth and higher magnitudes in the
whole heavens. All the coefficients for their reduction
are tabulated, and the greatest pains bestowed upon
their exact identification and synonymes in other cata-
logues ; so that this, in all human probability, will
become the catalogue of universal reference. It is pre-
ceded by a valuable preface from the pen of Mr. Baily,
his last contribution to astronomical science.

A very important feature of this and the two cata-
logues last noticed is their nomenclature. The system
adopted is the same in all ; and that, a system not capri-
ciously adopted or servilely copied, but founded on a
most searching and careful revision of all existing
catalogues, and of the charts of Bayer, Flamsteed, and
Lacaille, rectifying'^''' the boundaries of constellations which
had become strangely confused, correcting innumerable
errors of naming, numbering, and lettering, and reducing,
in short, to order and regularity, a subject which had
become almost hopelessly entangled. The way is thus
at length opened to a more rational distribution of the
heavens into constellations, and that final step which
must sooner or later be taken, of introducing a systematic
nomenclature into sidereal astronomy, rendered easy,
whensoever astronomers shall be prepared on other
grounds to take it. The trouble and difficulty attending

* The boundaries of the constellations on Malby's globes were
laid down by Mr. Baily, shortly before his last illness. — Ed.

48 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOE.

this part of the work exceeds what any one unused to
such tasks can easily imagine.

There are two papers by Mr. Baily relating to sidereal
astronomy, of which mention ought to be made here ;
viz., one "^ On the Proper Motions of the Stars," which
was read before the Astronomical Society on the 9th
December, 1831, in which a list of about 200 stars,
whose proper motion appears sufficiently sensible to
merit further inquiry, is discussed. In drawing up this
list, he was much aided by a series of transit observa-
tions by Dr. Robinson, observed expressly with a view to
this inquiry. But as no positive conclusion of a general
nature is arrived at in this memoir, and as the subject
is yet hardly ripe for a complete discussion, I shall dilate
no further on it. The other paper to which I allude
(which was read also to this Society on the 14th Novem-
ber, 1834) states the result of an examination of Dr.
Halley's MSS. at the Royal Observatory. The appoint-
ment of Astronomer Royal was held by Halley twenty-
two years ; and though for the first two of them the
Observatory was entirely deprived of instruments, and for
the next four a five-feet transit only was available, it
might, at least, have been expected that he should have
used diligently the means he did possess, or, at all
events, have recorded the observations he did make in a
regular, methodical, and intelligible manner. From Mr.
Baily's examination of these papers, however, this appears
to have been very far indeed from the case ; and that,
with the exception of difi'erences of right ascension
between the moon and planets and neighbouring fixed
stars, which alone he seems to have considered worthy of
attention, little of interest could be expected to repay

MEMOIR OF THE AUTflOR, 49

the trouble and expense of their reduction. Of these
papers, Mr. Baily, ever anxious for the preservation of
records, and mindful of the dormant value which they so
often possess, obtained from the Admiralty a transcript,
which, being carefully collated with and corrected by
the original MSS., is now deposited in our library.

The mention of the Royal Observatory induces me to
notice here a change which has been lately made in the
constitution of that noble institution, by a revision of
the royal warrant, defining the number and mode of
appointment of the Visitors, and placing this Society on
a similar and equal footing with the Royal Society in
the discharge of that important duty. This change was
made at Mr. Baily's suggestion, with the entire concur-
rence, however, of the then President of the Royal
Society, as to its expediency, on the occasion of the
demise of the crown by the death of George lY., which
rendered a new warrant necessary. The new system
has been found to work admirably well, and to have
secured a perfect harmony of feeling between the Visitors
and the eminent individual who now fills the post of
Astronomer Royal, as well as entire confidence in the
recommendations and suggestions of that body on the
part of Government. Aware, as all now are, of the fatal
and soporific influence of routine in public institutions,
they have only henceforward to guard against the oppo-
site extreme ; to which end, they cannot do better than
take for their guide and example that admirable combi-
nation of energy, gentleness, and judgment, which dis-
tinguished Mr. Baily, no less on every public occasion
than in his conduct as a Visitor; in which capacity, under
both the old and new system of visitation, he was an

E

50 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

invariable attendant, having never been absent, during a
period of twenty-eight years, from any meeting but the
last.

About the end of June, 1841, an accident happened
to him which had very nearly proved fatal. Crossing
"Wellington Street for the purpose of taking some ]\ISS.
to a printer, a deafness, which had for some years been
increasing on him, rendered him unaware of a rider
recklessly urging his horse to furious speed, who either
did not see him or was unable to pull up. In con-
sequence a collision took place, and Mr. Baily received a
stunning fall, accompanied by a severe scalp-wound. So
violent, indeed, was the shock, that he lay for a whole
week senseless ; and for an equal period after, his life was
considered in imminent danger. His sound and excellent
constitution, however, carried him through it, and no ill
consequences remained. By the end of September he
was enabled to resume the observations of the Cavendish
experiment^ which this unfortunate occurrence had inter-
rupted, and a few weeks' residence in the country com-
pleted the cure.

On the 8th of July, 1842, he was gratified by the
observation of a phenomenon which it had from his youth
upwards been one of his most ardent wishes to witness,
viz., a total eclipse of the sun. To this he looked
forward, indeed, with a curiosity peculiarly intense ;
having, on the occasion of the annular eclipse of May 15,
1836, which he travelled to Scotland to observe, and
which he succeeded in observing under very favourable
circumstances at Jedburgh, noticed a very singular phe-
nomenon attending the formation of the annulus ; I
mean, the appearance of beads of light, alternating finally

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 51

with long, straight, dark threads, cutting across the
narrow line of the sun's limb, which he described in
a highly interesting paper read to this Society on the
9th December, 1836. On the occasion of the total
eclipse, he selected Pavia for his station, that town lying
in the path of the centre of the shadow. There, by
especial good fortune, he obtained an excellent view of
it, and there he witnessed not only a repetition of the
phenomenon of the beads, but that much more astonish-
ing and previously unheard-of one, of the flame-like, or
conical rose-coloured protuberances, seen to project, as it
were, from the hidden disk of the sun beyond the border
of the moon. This truly wonderful appearance (which
was corroborated by several other observers at different
places, among others by Mr. Airy, at Turin) was described
by him, on his return from Italy, in a paper read to this
Society on the 11th ]N"ovember, 1842; and it is not
a little singular, that the two most remarkable solar
eclipses on record should thus have furnished the subjects
of his first and last astronomical memoirs, —

" Servatur ad imiim
Qualis ab incepto."

On his return from this journey he resumed his astro-
nomical labours on the catalogues, as we have seen,
which he continued, as well as his usual unremitted
attendance to the business and at the meetings of this
Society, till the spring of the present year (1844), when
his health began to decline, and several weeks of serious
illness, a thing utterly unknown to him at any former
period of his life, (except as a result of accident,) gave
intimation of a failing constitution. For the first time
since the re-organisation of the visitation of the Royal

E 2

52 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

Observatory he was unable to attend the annual meeting
of the visitors in June. He, however, rallied somewhat,
so as to be able to be present at the commemoration at
Oxford on July 2nd, on which occasion the honorary degree
of Doctor of Civil Law was conferred on him by that
university, as well as on Mr. Airy and Professor Struve.
On his return from Oxford his health again rapidly
declined, and all efforts of medical skill proving unavailing
to relieve an internal complaint {albuminuria) which had
at length declared itself, he expired, after a protracted, but
happily not painful, illness, during which he was fully sen-
sible of his approaching end, in a state of the utmost
calmness and composure, at half-past nine o'clock in the
evening of the 30th of August, at the age of seventy years
and four months.

In passing in review, as I have attempted to do, the
scientific works of Mr. Baily, and noticing, as we cannot
help doing, the gradual expansion of his views, and the
progressively increasing importance of the objects they
embraced, we are naturally led to ask by what means he
was enabled thus to live as it were two distinct lives,
each so active and successful, yet so apparently incom-
patible with each other ? how, in what is generally
regarded as the decline of life, he could not only accom-
plish so much with such apparent ease to himself, but
go on continually opening out wider and wider plans of
useful exertion in a manner which seems only to belong
to the freshness of youth 1 The answer to such an inquiry
is, no doubtj partly to be found in his uninterrupted en-
joyment of health, which was so perfect, that he has been
heard to declare himself a stranger to every form of
bodily ailment, and even to those inequalities of state

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 53

which render most men at some hours of the day or night
less fit for business or thought than at others. But though
this is in itself a blessing of the most precious kind,
and, if properly used, a vantage-ground of power and
success to any one favoured enough to possess it, it must
be regarded in his case as subordinate to, though, no
doubt, intimately connected with, a gift of a much higher
order, — that of an equable and perfectly balanced intel-
lectual and moral nature, — that greatest of gifts, which
has been regarded, and justly, as the only one really
worthy to be asked of Heaven in this life, — mens sana
in Gorpore sano. Few men, indeed, have ever enjoyed a
state of being so habitually serene and composed, accom-
panied with so much power, and disposition to exert it.
A calm, the reverse of apathy, a moderation having no-
thing in common with indifference, a method diametrically
opposed to routine, pervaded every part of his sentiments
and conduct. And hence it arose that every step which
he took was measured and consequent — one fairly secured
before another was put in progress. Such is ever the
march of real power to durable conquest. Hence, too, it
arose that a clear natural judgment, and that very un-
common gift, a sound common sense, viewing all things
through a medium unclouded by passion or prejudice,
gave to his decisions a certainty from which few were
ever found to dissent, and to his recommendations a
weight which few thought it right to resist.

It is very difficult, in speaking of Mr. Baily's character,
to convey a true impression through the medium of a
language so exaggerative as that which men now habi-
tually use. Its impressiveness was more felt on reflection
than on the instant, for it consisted in the absence of all

54 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

that was obtrusive or imposing, without the possibility of
that abseuce being misconstrued into a deficiency, — like
a sphere whose form is perfect simply because nothing is
protuberant. Equal to every occasion which arose, either
in public or private life, yet, when not called forth, or
when others occupied the field, content to be unremarked ;
to speak of his conduct as unassuming, would convey but
a faint idea of the perfect simplicity with which he stood
aside from unnecessary prominence or interference.

Hardly less inadequate would it be to say of his temper
that, always equable and cheerful, it was a source of
peace and happiness to himself and others. It was much
more, — it was a bond of kindness and union to all around
him, and infused into every affair in which the co-opera-
tion of others was needed an alacrity of spirit, which was
more than a simple reflex of his own good humour. It
rendered every relation between himself and others easy
and natural, and brought out all the latent warmth of
every disposition. One would have been ashamed to
evade a duty or refuse a burden when it was seen how
lightly his share was borne, how readily he stepped out
of his way to offer aid wherever he saw it needed, and
how frankly every suggestion was received, and every aid
from others accepted and acknowledged. This is the
secret of all successful co-operation.

Order, method, and regularity, are the essence of busi-
ness, and these qualities pervaded all proceedings in
which he took a part, and, indeed, all his habits of life.
In consequence, all details found their right place and
due provision for their execution, in every matter in
which he engaged. This was not so much the result of
acquired habits in a man of business, as the natural con-

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 55

sequence of his practical views, and an emanation of that
clear, collected spirit, of which even his ordinary hand-
writing was no uncertain index. Among hundreds of
his letters which I possess, there is hardly an erasure or
correction to be found, but every where, on whatever sub-
ject, or whatever the haste, the same clear, finished,
copperplate characters.

Of his choice of life 1 have already spoken something.
Fortune he regarded as a means to an end, but that end
he placed very high ; and fortune, he well knew, though
a means to its attainment, was not the only or the chief
means. As a member of civilized society, to add some-
thing to civilization ; to ennoble his country and improve
himself, by enlarging the boundaries of knowledge ; and
to provide for his own dignity and happiness by a pursuit
capable of conferring both, — these were the ends which
he proposed and accomplished. In choosing the parti-
cular line which he did, it is impossible too highly to
appretiate the self-knowledge and judgment which en-
abled him to see and adopt those objects best adapted to
his powers, and on which they could be, on the whole,
most availably and usefully employed. Both in his pub-
lic and private capacity he was liberal*' and generous

* Mr. Baily combined, ia a very unusual degree, the opposite
qualities of liberality in spending money, and keen attention to
getting money's worth for it. The editor of this work was one
day walking with him from his own door, when he suddenly went
up to a lame little boy who swept the neighbouring crossing, and
who had a smart, strong, new crutch. Mr. Baily first put the boy
through his paces, and proved that the crutch was of the proper
length : he then took it up, and examined it very narrowly in all
parts. In walking away he muttered, " f told the man to make
the boy a crutch, and I thought he charged quite enough for it,

56 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

in the extreme, and both his purse and his influence were
ever ready ^ whether to befriend merit, or to promote
objects of public and, especially, of scientific utility.

To term Mr. Baily a man of brilliant genius or great
invention, would in effect be doing him wrong. His
talents were great, but rather solid and sober than bril-
liant, and such as seized their subject rather with a
tenacious grasp than with a sudden pounce. His mind,
though perhaps not excursive, was yet always in progress ;
and by industry, activity, and using to advantage every
ray of light as it broke in upon his path, he often accom-
plished what is denied to the desultory efforts of more
imaginative men. Whatever he knew he knew thoroughly,
and enlarged his frontier by continually stepping across
the boundary and making good a new and well-marked
line between the cultivation within and the wilderness
without. But the frame of his mind, if not colossal, was
manly in the largest sense. Far-sighted, clear-judging,
and active ; true, sterling, and equally unbiassed by
partiality and by fear ; upright, undeviating, and candid,
ardently attached to truth, and deeming no sacrifice too
great for its attainment ; — these are qualities which
throw what is called genius, when unaccompanied, or but
partially accompanied, with them, quite into the shade.

In speaking of his conduct with respect to this Society,
and the infinite obligations we owe to him, we must
regard him in the first place as the individual to whom,

but I see it is very well made." The writer, wlio liad known Mr.
Baily well for many years, was not a little amused with the manner
in which the impulse of seeing that the carpenter had earned his
money overcame the reserve which he always maintained on the
subject of his own beneficent actions. — Ed.

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 57

more than to any other, we owe the titles of a parent and
a protector, and our early consolidation into a compact,
united, and efficient body. As Secretary pro tempore,
the draft of our Rules and the first Address explanatory
of our objects, circulated at the commencement of our
existence, were entirely, or in great measure, prepared by
him ; and, governed by these rules with hardly any
change, we have continued to flourish for twenty-four
years, which is the best test of their adaptation to our
purposes. As I have already stated, he acted as Secretary
during the first three years of our existence, during
which period the business of our meetings and of our
council was brought into that systematic and orderly
train of which the benefit has never since ceased to be felt.
On retiring from this office be was elected Vice-Presi-
dent, and on the next biennial demise of the chair he
became our President, an office which he afterwards filled
for three subsequent periods of two years, including that
of his lamented death. Altogether, during eight years as
President and eleven as Vice-President, he filled the
highest offices of our institution, and was never off the
Council, nor was there any Committee on which he did
not sit as one of its most active and efficient members.

With the exception of the Meeting of May 12th,
1836, when he was in Scotland observing the annular
eclipse, he was never absent from any Council, nor
from any Ordinary, General, or Committee Meeting until
prevented by his last illness. Nor during the whole
period of the Society's existence was there any matter
in which its interests were concerned in which he
was not a mover, and, indeed, the principal mover
and operator. Nor was this care of our interests

58 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

and respectability confined to formal business or to
matters of internal management. On every external
occasion which ofiered he bore those interests in mind.
He watched and seized the precise opportunity to procure
for us from Government the commodious apartments we
occupy. He obtained for us the respected and dignified
position of Joint- Visitors of the Royal Observatory. He
let no opportunity pass of enriching our library with
attested copies of the most valuable astronomical docu-
ments, such as " Flamsteed's Letters'' and '^ Halley's
Recorded Observations." He husbanded and nursed our
finances with the utmost judgment and economy, thereby
rendering us rich and independent. He printed at his
own cost the thirteenth volume of our Transactions, and
procured to be defrayed by Government the expense of
the seventh, and, by subscription among the members,
without intrenching on the funds of the Society, that of
the computation and printing of our Catalogue. He pre-
pared all our Annual Reports, and his Addresses from the
chair will always be read with pleasure and instruction.
He also prepared all Committees' Reports, and translated
for reading at our meetings numerous notices and com-
munications in the German language : among others, the
memoir relating to the Berlin charts. In fine, he super-
intended every thing in every department. But it was
the manner and delicate tact of this superintendence
which gave it its value and rendered it efficient. In
respect of this point I may, perhaps, be permitted to use
the expressions of a distinguished member of our body, to
whom we owe many and great obligations, and who has
witnessed the working of its machinery from the begin-
ning, an advantage of which for some years I have myself

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 59

been deprived by non-residence in London and absence
from England. " Of his management of our Society,"
says Mr. Sheepshanks, " it is difficult to speak so as to
convey a correct idea. No assumption, no interference
with other people, no martinet spirit (which seems almost
natural to all good businessmen), but every thing carried
on smoothly and correctly, and without bustle. He hit,
better than any chairman I have even seen, the mean
between strictness and laxity ; and, while he kept every
thing going in its proper channel, he also kept every
body in good humour. This natural tact was a great
gift ; but there was another quality which I never saw in
any one but him, and that was his readiness to give pre-
cedence and room to every one who wished to do any
thing useful, and his equal readiness to supply every
deficiency and do the work of every body else. He was
also the person who never was asleep and never forgot
any thing, and who contrived, by his good humour, hos-
pitality, and good sense, to keep every thing in train."
To much of this view, as a matter of general character,
I have given my own independent expression, but I could
not deny myself the satisfaction of corroborating my own
judgment by that of one so well qualified, from intimate
knowledge, to form opinions.

Mr. Baily, as I have already stated, was a Member of
the Royal, Geological, and Linnean Societies, to which 1
may also add the Royal Irish Academy and the Society
of Civil Engineers. In the Royal Society his eminence
as an astronomer and a man of general science made his
presence valuable, and the universal respect in which he
was held gave him much influence. He filled in that
body the office of Vice-President for six years, of Trea-

60 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

surer for three, and was fifteen times elected on the
Council. I have already mentioned two of the three
papers he contributed to its transactions. The third
contains a minute account of the standard barometer of
that Society, fixed up in their apartments in the year
1837, in which he enters into every particular of its con-
struction, mode of registry, and corrections. It was read
on the 16th of November, 1837. He was also one of the
earliest members of the Royal Geographical Society, and
took a very active part in its establishment. He was also
a member and one of the trustees of the British Asso-
ciation, at whose meetings he was an occasional attendant,
and acted, as we have seen, on some important com-
mittees. In 1835, the University of Dublin conferred on
him the honorary title of Doctor of Civil Law, as, I have
already stated, was also done by Oxford in 1844. Among
the foreign Academies which in honouring him honoured
themselves, I find him to have been a correspondent of
the Royal Institute of Sciences of Paris, and of the Royal
Academies of Berlin, Naples, and Palermo, as well as
of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences at
Boston.

His portrait, by Phillips, presented by some Fellows of
the Society, has long adorned, and though for the present
removed from its frame, will speedily again adorn, our
meeting-room. May his mantle descend on our future
Presidents, and his spirit long continue to preside over
our councils and animate our exertions in the cause he
had so much at heart !

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 61

LIST

OP

MR. FRANCIS BAILY'S PUBLICATIONS,

Chronologically Arranged.

1. Tables for the Purcliasing and Renewing of Leases for Terms

of Years certain and for Lives, with Rules for determining
the Value of the Reversion of Estates after any such Leases,
and for the solution of other useful Problems, adapted to
general use ; to which is added an Appendix. London,
1802. 8vo.

Second Edition, 1807.

Third Edition, 1812,

2. The Rights of the Stock-Brokers defended against the attacks

of the City of Loudon, London, 1806. 8vo.

3. The Doctrine of Interest and Annuities analytically investi-

gated and explained, together with several useful Tables
connected with the subject. Loudon, 1808. 4to.

4. An Account of the several Life- Assurance Companies esta-

blished in London, containing a "View of their respective
merits and advantages. London, 1810. 8vo.
Second Edition, 1811.

5. The Doctrine of Life- Annuities and Assurances analytically

investigated and ^practically explained, together with several
useful Tables connected with the subject. London, 1810.
8vo,

(This work has been lately translated and published in

France under the following title : —
" Theorie des Annuit6s viageres et des Assurances sur la
Vie, suivie d'une Collection de Tables relative a ces
matieres, par Francis Baily. Traduit de T Anglais
par Alfred de Courcy, et public par la Compagnie
d' Assurances generales sur la Vie. Paris, 1836.")

6. On the Solar Eclipse which is said to have been predicted by

Thales. Read before the Royal Society, March 11, 1811.
Phil. Trans., 1811.

62 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

7.* A Synopsis of the Principal Elements of Astronomy, dediiced
from M. Laplace's jEJxjjosition du Systeme du Monde.
London, 1812. 8vo.

8. A New Chart of History. Large Sheet. London, 1812.

Corrected to 1817, with the Third Edition of the following
work :

9. Description and Use of a New Chart of History, exhibiting

the most material Revolutions that have taken place in the
principal Empires, Kingdoms, and States, from the earliest
authentic Records to the commencement of the present
Year. London, 1812. 8vo.

Second Edition, 1813.

Third Edition, 1817.

10. An Appendix to the Doctrine of Life Annuities and Assu-

rances, containing a Paper read before the Royal Society,
on a New Method of Calculating the Value of Life- Annuities.
London, 1813. 8vo.

(By this Appendix the Doctrine of Life- Annuities, &c.,
was divided into 2 vols.)

11. An Epitome of Universal History, Ancient and Modern, from

the earliest authentic Records to the commencement of the
present Year. London, 1813. 2 vols. 8vo.

12. Report of the Sub-Committee of the Stock-Exchange relative

to the late Fraud. London, 1814. 8vo.
Second Report of the Sub-Committee of the Stock-Exchange
relative to the late Fraud. London, 1815. 8vo.

13. Report of the Committee of the Stock-Exchange appointed for

the Distribution of the Money stopped on Account of the
late Fraud. London, 1815. 8vo.

14. Memoir relative to the Annular Eclipse of the Sun, which

wiU happen on September 7, 1820. London, 1818. 8vo.
with a Map.

(Not published for sale.)

15. On the Nautical Almanac. Phil. Mag. for April, 1819.

Vol. LIII. p. 217.

* I very much doubt that this work was actually published, though such a
publication was intended. See the additions to the life at the end of this list.
—Ed.

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 63

16. Memoh' on a New and Certain Method of ascertaining the

Figure of the Earth by means of Occultations of the Fixed
Stars. By A. Cagnoli, with Notes and Appendix. Lon-
don, 1819. 8vo.

(Not published for sale.)

17. Address Explanatory of the Views and Objects of the Astro-

nomical Society. London, 1820, 8vo.

(Also nearly the whole of the Society's Annual Reports
till the year 1844, inclusive.)

18. On a Method of Fixing a Transit Instrument exactly hi the

Meridian. Read June 9, 1820. Mem. Ast. Soc. Vol. I.
p. 59.

19. On the Apparent Place of the Pole Star at the time of its

upper Culmination for the years 1820, 1821, and 1822.
Phil. Mag. 1820. Vol. LV. p. 401.

20. Tables by the Board of Longitude. Phil. Mag. 1820. Vol.

LVI. p. 288.

21. On the Solar Eclipse which took place on September 7, 1820.

Read December 8, 1820. Mem. Ast. Soc. Vol. L p. 135.

22. Astronomical Tables and Remarks for the year 1822. Witli

a Map. London, 1822. 8vo.
(Nob published for sale.)

23. Remarks on the present Defective State of the Nautical

Almanac. London, 1822. 8vo.

24. On a New Method of determining the Latitude of a Place by

Observations of the Pole Star. Phil. Mag. 1822. Vol.
LIX. p. 445.

25. Astronomical Information. Phil. Mag. 1822. Vol. LX. p. 388.

26. On some New Tables of Aberration and Nutation. Phil. Mag.

1822. Vol. LX. p. 279.

27. On some New Tables for determining the Time by means of

Altitudes taken near the Prime Vertical. Read January
10, 1823. Mem. Ast. Soc. Vol. L p. 315.

28. Supplementary Table for computing the Precession and Nuta-

tion of the Fixed Stars. Phil. Mag. 1823. Vol. LXI.
p. 217.

29. On the New Tables of Aberration, Nutation, and Precession.

Phil. Mag. 1823. Vol. LXI. p. 366.

64 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

30. Astronomical luformation. Mr. Pond and M. Bessel. Phil.

Mag. 1823. Vol. LXI. p. 469.

31. On M. lughirami's List of Occultations of the Fixed Stars.

Phil Mag. 1823. Vol. LXII. p. 161.

32. Astronomical Information. Phil. Mag. 1823. Vol. LXII.

pp. 391 and 466.

33. Mr. Pond and M. Bessel. Phil. Mag. 1823. Vol. LXII,

pp. 390 and 467.

34. On the Mercurial Compensation-Pendulum. Head May 9.

and June 13, 1823. Mem. Ast. Soc. Vol. I. pp. 381-420,
with a Plate.

35. On the enssuing Opposition of Mars. Phil. Mag, 1824. Vol.

LXIII. p. 50.

36. On the Circular Micrometer. Phil. Mag. 1824. Vol. LXIII.

p. 167.

37. On Ml". Babbage's New Machine for Calculating and Printing

Mathematical and Astronomical Tables. Phil. Mag. May,
1824. Vol. LXin. p. 335 ; and Ast. Nach. No. 46.

38. On the Occultation of the Georgium Sidus. Phil. Mag.

1824. Vol. LXIII. p. 458.

39. Astronomical Discovery (Bessel). Phil. Mag. 1824. Vol.

LXIV. p. 67.

40. New Lunar Tables by M. Damoiseau. Phil. Mag. 1824.

Vol. LXIV. p. Qd>.

41. On the Method of determining the Difference of Meridians by

the Culmination of the Moon and Stars ; with an Aj^pendix
and a List of Stars applicable to the purpose for the year

1825. Read April 9 and May 14, 1824. Mem. Ast. Soc.
Vol. II. p. 1.

42. A Statement of some Circumstances connected with the Mode

of contracting the Columbian Loan in 1824. London, 1825.
8vo.

43. Astronomical Information. Phil. Mag. 1825. Vol. LXV.

p. 466.

44. Errors in Piazzi's Catalogue of Stars. Phil. Mag. 1825. Vol.

LXVL p, 261.

45. Notice respecting the Opposition of Mars. Phil. Mag. 1825.

Vol. LXVI. p. 465.

MEMOIR OF THE AUT[IOR. GT)

46. An Address delivered at a Special General Meeting of the

Astronomical Society of London, on April 14, 1826, on
presenting the Gold Medals to J. F. W. Herschel, Esq.,
J. South, Esq., and Professor Struve. Afem. Ast. iSoc. Vol.
II. p. 541.

47. Astronomical Tables and Formulte, together with a variety of

Problems explanatory of their use and application. To
which are prefixed the Elements of the Solar System.
London. 1827. 8vo.

48. Astronomical Collections, No. I., containing a Catalogue of

Zodiacal Stars. London, March, 1827. 8vo.
(Not published for sale.)

49. New Tables for facilitating the Computation of Precession,

Aberration, and Nutation of 2881 principal Fixed Stars ;
together with a Catalogue of the same reduced to Jan. 1,
1830. To which is prefixed an Introduction explanatory
of their construction and application. Loudon, 1827.
Appendix to Vol. II. Mem. Ast. Soc.

50. Further List of Errors in Piazzi's Catalogue of Stars. Phil.

Mag. 1827. Vol. I. p. 19.

51. List of Moon-culminating Stars for 1827. Phil. Mag. 1827.

Vol. I. (new series) p. 47.

52. On some new Auxiliary Tables for determining the Apparent

Places of the Greenwich Stars. Phil. Mag. for 1827. Vol.
L p. 81.

53. On the Eoyal Observatory at Palermo. Phil. Mag. 1827.

Vol. II. p. 81.

54. On the Right Ascension of y C'asdopeice. Phil. Mag. 1828.

Vol. III. p. 64.

55. New Astronomical Ephemeris. Phil. Mag. 1828. Vol. IV. p. 141.

5Q. On a new Micrometer, principally intended for the Construc-
tion of a more complete Map of the Heavens. By M.
Steinheil. Phil. Mag. 1828. Vol. IV. p. 173.

57. Further Remarks on the present Defective State of the
Nautical Almanac; to which is added an Account of
the new Astronomical Ephemeris published at Berlin.
London, Jan. 1829. 8vo.

(Extracted from the Appendix to " Astronomical Tables
and Formulae.") F

66 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

58. A Letter to the Editor of " The Times," and inserted in that

paper April 17, 1829.

59. On the Discordances in the Results of the Methods for Deter-

mining the Length of the Simple Pendulum. Phil. Mag.
1829. Yol. Y. p. 97.

60. Appendix to Lieut. H. Foster's Paper on the Longitude of

Port Bowen, by the Method of Moon-culminating Stars.
London, 1829. Mem. Ast. Soc. Yol. III. p. 43.

61. A Catalogue of the Positions (in 1690) of 5Q^ Stars observed by

Flamsteed, but not inserted in his Bi-itish Catalogue ; to-
gether with some Remarks on Flamsteed's Observations.
Read May 8, 1829. Mem. Ast. Soc. Yol. lY. pp. 129-164.
Q'2. On the System of Prize Chronometers at Greenwich. Phil.
Mag. 1829. Yol. YI. p, 424.

63. On Mr. Pond's recent Catalogue of the Places of 720 principal

Stars, compared with the Places of the same Stars in the
Catalogue of this Society ; with Remarks on the Differences
between the two Catalogues. Read March 12, 1830. Mem.
Ast. Soc. Yol. lY. pp. 255-290.

64. Mayer's Catalogue of Stars, corrected and enlarged ; together

with a Comparison of the Places of the greater part of
them, with those given by Bradley, and a reference to every
Observation of every Star. Read June 11, 1830. Mem.
Ast. Soc. Yol. lY. pp. 391-445.

65. Report of the Committee of the Astronomical Society of

London, relative to the Improvement of the Nautical
Almanac. Adopted by the Council, November 19, 1830 :
approved by the Right Honourable Lords Commissioners of
the Admiralty, and ordered by them to be carried into
effect. Mem. Ast. Soc. Yol. lY. p. 447.

66. On the New Nautical Almanac. Phil. Mag. 1831. Yol.

IX. p. 23.

67. Lacaille's Catalogue of 398 principal Stars, together with a

Comparison of the Places of such as are visible in this Lati-
tude with those given by Bradley, and a reference to every
Observation of every Star. Read April 8 and May 13,
1831. Mem. Ast. Soc. Yol. Y. pp. 93-124.

68. On the Proper Motion of the Fixed Stars : with a List of

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. G7

those which are known, or supposed, to be materially
affected by such a motion. Read Dec. 9, 1831. If em. Ast.
SoG. Yol. V. pp. 147-170.

69. On the Visitation of Greenwich Observatory, with a Copy

of the Kew Warrant. Phil Mag. 1831. Yol. TX. p. 72.

70. On the Computation of the Moon's Motion in Right Ascension.

PhU. Mag. 1831. Yol. IX. p. 24 1 .

71. On the Correction of a Pendulum for the Reduction to a

Yacuum : together with Remarks on some Anomalies
observed in Pendulum Experiments. Read May 31, 1831.
Phil. Trans. 1832. pp. 399-492.

72. An Account of Experiments with an Invariable Pendulum,

during a Russian Scientific Yoyage by Captain Luetke
Phil. Mag. 1832. Yol. I. p. 420.

73. An Address delivered at the Annual General Meeting of the

Royal Astronomical Society, on Feb. 8, 1833, on presenting
the Honorary Medal to Professor Airy. Mem. Ast. Soc.
Yol. YI. pp. 247-256.

74. Report on the Pendulum Experiments made by the late Capt.

Henry Foster, R.N., in his Scientific Yoyage in the years
1828-1831, with a view to determine the Figure of the
Earth.

Printed at the public expense, and forming the seventh

volume of the Memows of the Royal Astronomical

Society. 1834. 4to.

75. Some Account of the Astronomical Observations made by Dr.

Edmund Halley, at the Royal Obsei'vatory at Greenwich.
Read Nov. 14, 1834. Mem. Ast . Soc. Yol.YIII. pp. 1G9-190.

76. An Address delivered at the Annual General Meeting of the

Royal Astronomical Society, Feb. 13, 1835, on presenting
the Honorar'y Medal to Lieutenant Johnson. Mem. Ast.
Soc. Yol. YIII. p. 298.

77. An Account of the Rev. John Flamsteed, the first Astronomer

Royal, compiled from his own Manuscripts and other
aiithentic Documents, never before pubhshed. To which is
added, his British Catalogue of Stars, corrected and enlarged.
London, 1835. 4to.

(Printed at the public expense.)

F 2

68 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

78. Report on the New Standard Scale of this Society. Presented

December 11, 1835. Mem. Ast. Soc. Vol. IX. p. 35.

79. On a Remarkable Phenomenon that occurs in Total and An-

nular Eclipses of the Sun. Read Dec. 9, 1836. Mem. Ast.
SoG. Vol. X. p. 1.

80. Supplement to the Account of the Rev. John Flamsteed.

London, 1837. 4to.

(Printed at his own expense for private circulation only.)

81. An Address to Astronomical Observers relative to the Im-

provement and Extension of the Astronomical Society's
Catalogue of 2881 Stars. London, 1837. 4to.
(For private circulation only.)

82. On the Non-existence of the star 42 Virginis. Monthly Notices

of the Roy. Ast. Soc. June 9, 1837.

83. On the Repetition of the Cavendish Experiment. Monthly

Notices of the Roy. Ast. Soc. Dec. 8, 1837.

84. Description of a New Barometer, recently fixed up in the

Apartments of the Royal Society ; with Remarks on the
Mode hitherto pursued at various periods, and an Account of
that which is now adopted for correcting the observed Height
of the Mercury in the Society's Barometers. Phil. Trams.
1837, p. 431.

85. An Address delivered at the Annual General Meeting of the

Royal Astronomical Society, Feb. 8, 1839, on presenting the
Honorary Medal to the Hon. John Wrottesley. Mem. Ast.
Soc. Vol. XI. p. 306.

86. Experiments with the Torsion-Rod for Determining the Mean

Density of the Earth. Mem. Ast. Soc. Vol. XIV,
(Printed partly at the Government expense.)

87. The Catalogues of Ptolemy, Ulugh Beigh, Tycho Brahe,

Halley, Hevelius, deduced from the best Authorities ; with
various Notes and Corrections, and a Preface to each
Catalogue. To which is added the synonym of each Star
in the Catalogues of Flamsteed or Lacaille, as far as the
same can be ascertained. Forming Vol. XIII. of Mem.
Ast. Soc.

(Printed at his own expense.)

88. Some Remarks on the Total Eclipse of the Sun, on July 8,

1842. Mem. Ast. Soc. Vol.XV. p. 1.

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. G9

89. Posthumous. Tlie Catalogue of Stars of the British Associa-
tion for the Advancemeut of Science ; containing the mean
right ascensions and north polar distances of 8377 fixed
stars, reduced to January 1, 1850 : together with their
annual Precessions, secular Variations, and proper Motions,
as well as the logarithmic constants for computing Preces-
sion, Aberration, and Nutation. With a preface explana-
tory of their construction and ajjplication. By the late
Francis Baily. . . . London, 1845, 4to. [Superintended, after
Mr. Baily's death, by Dr. Robinson, Professor Challis, and
Lieut. Stratford, R.N.]

90. Fosthumoios. A Catalogue of 9766 Stars in the Southern

Hemisphere, for the beginning of the year 1750, from the
Observations of the Abbe de Lacaille made at the Cape of
Good Hope in the years 1751 and 1752. Reduced at the
expense of the British Association for the Advancement of
Science, under the immediate superintendence of the late
Professor Hendei'son, director of the Royal Observatory,
Edinburgh, and printed at the expense of her Majesty's
Government, under the direction of the late Francis Baily,
Esq. With a preface by Sir J. F. W. Herschel. London,
1847, 8vo.

91. Posthu/mous, A Catalogue of those Stars in the Ilistoire

Celeste Frangaise of Jerome Delalande, for which tables of
reduction to the epoch of 1800 have been published by
Professor Schumacher. Reduced at the expense of the
British Association for the Advancement of Science, under
the immediate superiutendence of the late Francis Baily,
Esq. Printed at the expense of her Majesty's Government.
London, 1847, 8vo. [Superintended, after Mr. Baily's
death, by Sir J. F. W. Herschel, G. B. Airy, Astronomer
Royal, and Lieut. Stratford, R.N. The number of stars is
47,390.]

70 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

*^/'' The following additions to the preceding Memoir ajypea/r in the
Annucd Report of the Council oftlie Royol Astronomical Society
for 1853-4, read February 10, 1854.

Though it is not usual to introduce supplements to
obituary notices contained in former Reports, yet the
interest which is here felt in all that relates to Francis
Baily will justify the statement of some facts relative to
his early life, which have been brought out by a recent
examination of his correspondence, and of the journal of
his voyage in America.

Perhaps the earliest mention of his name in print is in
the proceedings of the American Congress. The Spanish
authorities had imposed various hardships upon citizens
of the United States and other foreigners, by the depre-
ciation of their coinage ; and in the discussions which
took place at Washington upon this subject, the name of
Baily is cited as one of the parties aggrieved. It dis-
tinctly appears that one of the objects of his tour was
the formation or extension of commercial connexion, pro-
bably of some house in England. It also appears that
during his voyage he gave formal notice of his intention
to apply for the privileges of citizenship, with a view to
take up his permanent residence in the United States ;
and further, that his friends in England were made cogni-
sant of this intention. Some allusions to a young lady
seem to give the reason of this contemplated change of
country ; but nothing is found which explains the aban-
donment of the plan. Two subjects are concealed in
short-hand : one is that which has just been hinted at ;
the other is the expression of his feelings towards
Washington, for whom he entertained a respect, the depth

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 71

of which may best be judged of from the description of
his mode of recording it.

On his return to England, he seems for some time to
have had no decided plan, except that of adopting some
life of active adventure. In May, 1798, he was seeking
a commission in the militia, and an ensigncy in the
volunteer company of the Berkshire corps was actually
oifered. In December of the same year, he had been
inquiring as to the means of obtaining a commission in
the Engineers ; and a letter from Bonnycastle, which
represents the impossibility of such a thing, hints at the
East India Company's Service, and informs him that
several officers and other gentlemen are soon going to
Turkey. In May, 1799, he applied to the African
Association, with an offer to enrol himself in their service
as a traveller, and by a letter from Sir Joseph Banks,
(June 11), it appears, that, if there had been sufficient
funds, his offer might have been seriously considered. In
a private letter to Sir John Stepney (Sept. 18, 1799) is
the following passage:— "I had proposed to myself a
route which should be less circuitous than those of Park
or Ilorneman, namely, to proceed northwardly, or north-
eastwardly from Calabar or Wydah, till I should strike
the Niger. I had the subject so much at heart, that I
would have gone through any trials to have accomplished
my object. With respect to the difficulties and dangers
of such an undertaking, they would, no doubt, have been
many; but they are things which much experience of this
mode of travelling in the New World has induced me to
think light of. I can even say with Horace, Dulce peri-
culum est. So true is it that habit and custom can soon
efface those disagreeable sensations which arise from some

72 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

of the rough accidents of life. After a number of fruitless
attempts to succeed in mj object, and meeting with so
little encouragement in the prosecution of it, I have at
length determined to give it up ; and an event is about
to take place which most probably will prevent my ever
resuming it — this is, my going to enter into partnership
with an eminent stockbroker in the City."

All this time it appears that Baily was paying close
attention to mathematics, astronomy, and botany. The
earliest astronomical writing of his now extant is a paper
(dated October, 1798), written apparently for his own
instruction, containing a description of a neatly drawn
projection of the heavens after sunset on April 5, 1799,
at which time he says, '^ all the planets in our system
will be above the horizon at the same time, forming a
line along the ecliptic from the most westerly point to
near the zenith."

The origin of the work on " Tables and Formulse," is in
a manuscript having the title " Elements of Astronomy,
deduced from M. Laplace's ' Exposition du Systeme du
Monde.'" London, 1810. This manuscript^ most neatly
written, was certainly intended for publication ; and by
being marked in pencil ^' Communicated by Francis Baily,
Esq.," and " 25 copies for Mr. Baily," it seems to have
been drawn up for some society for mutual instruction,
or other private association.

To complete what was said on Baily's writings in Sir
John Herschel's Memoir of his life, it may be added that
a large mass of his astronomical papers and correspondence,
including much of the account of Flamsteed, and the
whole of the Catalogue, is, or will be, deposited at Green-
wich. The manuscripts of the works on Leases, on Inte-

MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 73

rest, and on Annuities, are in the library of tlie Institute
of Actuaries. An account of his correspondence with
Mr. George Barrett, which was the means of laying before
the world one of the greatest improvements ever made in
the calculation of life contingencies, will appear in the
"Assurance Magazine" for April (1854) next.

{Pages 9-11 and 31-35.) Subsequent investigations
require the following remarks on the eclipse of
Thales, and on the standard scale.
The recent elaborate researches of Mr. Airy, (under-
taken on doubts suggested by Mr. Baily's remark, that no
single correction would reconcile the eclipse of Thales
with that of Agathocles,) conducted upon the latest im-
provements in the lunar theory, have led him to reject the
eclipse of 610 B.C., and to substitute for it that of May
28, 585 B.C., changing the locality of the battle from the
mouth of the river Halys to Issus, at the head of the
Mediterranean, which accords even better with the state-
ment of Herodotus. By this change of place and date
the two eclipses are reconciled with each other, and with
the improvements in the lunar theory.

The anticipations of tlie permanence and accuracy of
the record of length to be obtained from the Astronomical
Society's standard have scarcely been justified by its sub-
sequent history. In the year 1835 the Astronomical
Society's standard was compared by Mr. Baily with
the tubular standards of similar construction, one the
private property of Mr. Baily, and the other belonging to
Mr. Simms. The same standards were again compared by
Mr. Baily, by use of the same comparing apparatus, in the

74 MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR.

year 1844. On collating the two comparisons, it was
found that the relation between the lengths of the dif-
ferent standards had altered by ^ of an inch. In 1854
Mr, Sheepshanks repeated the comparisons, and his results
agreed with those of Mr. Baily in 1844, in showing that
the relation of lengths had changed, although the amount
of change appeared somewhat less than Mr. Baily had
found it.

Mr. Baily, however, in 1844, put the permanence of
the standard to a severer proof. The Astronomical
Society's standard (cylindrical in form) leaves four sets of
marks, each set defining very approximately a measure
of five feet, at four equidistant parts of the cylindrical
circumference. Those four measures were compared by
Mr. Baily in 1834, and again in 1844. Their relative
lengths had sensibly altered : in two instances by more
than eiro of ^^ i^ch.

In consequence of these anomalies, the Astronomical
Society's standard was not used by Mr. Sheepshanks in
the restoration of the national standard of length.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR, h.

0^ Wednesday, the 21st of October, 1795, 1 embarked on
board the Jay, Capt. O'Brien, bound to JSFew York, then
lying at Gravesend. Whilst we lay in the river, the brig
Harlequin, of Belfast, ran foul of us, and carried away
our bowsprit and cutwater, which detained us a day or
two longer than we expected, so that we did not reach
the Downs till the 25th. Here the pilot left us, and we
lay amidst a fleet of upwards of a hundred sail, waiting
for a fair wind to take us out of the Channel. The
weather had been calm for some days before, and the
wind westerly, so that we had every reason to expect
that a favourable breeze would spring up before any
great length of time elapsed. But how soon may our
hopes and expectations be clouded over by adverse and
unforeseen contingencies I for, on the night of the 29th,
whilst we were at supper in the cabin, a most violent
gale of wind sprung up, almost as sudden as it was un-
expected. The damage which it did that night in the
Downs, and in other places along the coast as well as
ashore, is still in the recollection of many. Most of the
ships parted their cables, and drifted about without being
able to bring up ; some ran foul of each other, many

76 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

were driven on the Goodwin Sands, and others foundered
at their anchors. The first notice of any danger which
we received, was the sight of a ship drifting towards us,
and which we had scarcely discovered, before we ex-
pected every moment that she would run foul of us.
This we endeavoured to avoid by paying out more cable,
and manoeuvring the ship to keep out of her track ; but
all to no purpose, we were so surrounded by shipping,
that equal danger seemed on every side, and all we could
do was to stand by and wait the event, as she was fast
approaching towards our starboard quarter. In a few
moments she came with her bowsprit athwart our gun-
wale : the former was immediately broken in pieces by
the violence of the stroke. The horrid crash arising from
this, and from our rigging and quarter-boards being all
carried away at the same time, together with the violent
concussion given to the ship by such an immense body
striking her so forcibly, raised in us apprehensions that
the ship had received some considerable damage ; but
whilst we were employed in ascertaining this fact, an-
other unlucky ship which had parted her cables, and been
driven about at the mercy of the winds, attacked us on
the other quarter, so that we were absolutely between
two fires, and in a very dangerous situation. It was now
about ten o'clock : the sea, which but a few hours before
had been nearly calm, now ran mountains high; and by
the alternate elevation and depression of its waves, we
received several reiterated and repeated shocks from our
two neighbouring foes. At length one of them veered
round under our hows and cut our cable ; the consequence
was, that we drifted away, and escaped the imminent danger
to which we had been exposed. We directly let go our

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 77

other anclior ; but the cable, being very old and rotten,
parted immediately, the wind still blowing very heavy,
and the sea running exceedingly high, and both united
drifting us towards the Goodwin Sands, so that a still
more imminent danger seemed to await us than that from
which we had just escaped. Thus we were in a state of
forlorn hope, — both anchors gone, and the wind and tide
setting us on towards that spot which has been the grave
of many a seaman ! At length we got the remaining
part of the broken cable bent to a large sheet anchor
which we had below deck, and heaving it overboard, after
dragging for some time it brought us up about twelve
o'clock within a cable's length of the breakers. Here we
waited with anxious suspense till the morning, when a
Deal pilot, seeing our precarious situation, came off to our
assistance, and took charge of the ship ; and the day after,
the storm having abated, we got into Ramsgate harbour
to refit.

It was truly a deplorable sight to see the havoc made
amongst the shipping by this dreadful hurricane : the
greatest part of them had suffered very materially, and
were obliged to return to port to repair their damages.
One vessel, a transport, which lay alongside us, went
down at her anchors ; two others, which lay not far
distant, we saw towed into the harbour with the loss of
all their masts. One of them was laden with Hessian
soldiers, bound to Cork, and it was some time before they
could get permission to be landed, being foreign troops
in actual service ; so that the poor distressed objects were
obliged to remain aboard the ship till they could get an
order for their removal.

Monday, November 9fh. — This morning, the wind

78 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

springing up from the eastward, and our damages being
repaired, the signal was hoisted for sailing, and about
twelve o'clock we all got on board. The number of pas-
sengers, besides myself, was five, amongst whom was one
lady. We were the last of near fifty sail of vessels that
sailed out of the harbour this morning, all bound down
Channel ; but, crowding all the sail we could, and having
a favourable breeze, we came up with most of them before
night, and next morning left them all behind, our ship
sailing remarkably fast. It is a most charming sight to
see so many vessels under sail at the same time, to remark
their different manoeuvres and observe their signals, to
notice their earnest efforts to get a head of each other,
and the apparent mortification of those who are not able
to keep up with the rest. This, together with that pleas-
ing sensation of being carried on with a great rapidity of
motion without any labour or trouble,"" added, perhaps,
to the novelty of the scene, made me for the moment
quite fascinated with a seafaring life, and tended to re-
move a little of that dejection so natural to a person
leaving his native country, perhaps for ever !

November 11th. — Got abreast of Scilly lighthouse this
morning by six o'clock, having had a fine run down the
Channel in forty-two hours. This being the last land we
see till our arrival on the American coast, we therefore
took our departure from it ; that is, the latitude and
longitude of this place being well ascertained, we made it
a point from which to calculate, and to which to refer all
our daily reckonings during the voyage. The common
principles of navigation, sufficient to keep a ship's reckon-

* Dr. Johnson used to remark that few things were more plea-
sant than being whirled along rapidly in a post chaise.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 79

ing, are very easily learned without • going into the great
depths of the science ; and it would not only be found a
very pleasant amusement during the many vacant hours
aboard a ship, if a part of the time were employed in
this manner, but would also tend to give clearer ideas of
geographical and nautical science than otherwise might
be obtained.

After being a few days out of sight of land, and not
having seen anything to relieve the eye from that same-
ness of appearance in the sea and heavens which takes
place on being immerged into the bosom of the wide
ocean, I began to think of Dr. Johnson's opinion of a
seafaring life, and could not help partially admiring the
justness of the remark.* Still, however, if there be
pleasant company aboard, and if you take care to furnish
yourself with books, draughts, cards, music, or any other
thing which may serve to banish ennui, the time will
appear not only free from weariness, but at times may be
spent as agreeably as on shore. Reading as well as
writing will be very irksome at first, owing to the
motion of the ship ; and it is some time before one can
acquire a countermotion to oppose its effects.

Dr. Franklin recommends to persons going a voyage to
take rusks with them, or pieces of bread baked over again,
supposing that they would soon get tired of biscuit. For
my own part, if ever you think of taking a trip across the
Atlantic, I should recommend the former ; but that
which would supersede the use of either would be the
taking of a little yeast on board, just before you start ;

* A ship (says he) is worse than a gaol. There is, in a gaol, better
air and better company, better conveniency of every kind ; and a
ship has the additional disadvantage of being in danger.

80 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

by this means you may have new bread every day, as
almost every ship has an oven on board. Besides the
stores laid in by the captain for the use of the pas-
sengers, I would recommend every person to lay in
a small private stock * on his own account of those things
for which he thinks he may have most occasion ; parti-
cularly such as, not being immediately necessaries, are
often overlooked by the captain, as oranges, apples, raisins,
lemons, and other fruit : they will prove very pleasant
and acceptable at all times, but still more so if sickness
takes place. In this latter case, tapioca or sago, boiled
in a little water, and mixed with some white wine and
sugar, will be very grateful, as well as nourishing ; it is
soon taken up in the circulation, and does not load the
stomach so much as animal food.

Becemher 1 Uh. — We had been out now thirty-five days,
and were, by our reckoning, within one or two days' sail
of New York : our passage had not been long ; and we
began to anticipate the pleasure of setting our feet once
more on terra firma. But our hopes were here, as in the
first outset, cut short by the precarious winds. The whole
day it had blown very hard from the north-west ; and
every succeeding moment gave symptoms of a storm near
at hand ; we accordingly lay-to under our foresail, and
waited with anxious suspense its result. Towards night
we found the gale had increased considerably ; however,
seeing we could be of no service upon deck, we turned
in and went to bed. The wind whistled through the
rigging, and the waves dashed against the sides of the

* This is recommended by most voyagers, and particularly by
Dr. Franklin ; yet it is a thing which is very little attended to,
till persons have found the want by experience.

JOURNAL OF A. TOUR. 81

ship, SO that it was with difficulty we could hear eacli
other speak : and this, independent of anything else, was
enough to banish sleep from our eyes ; yet it at last over-
took us, and we remained locked up in its silken bands,
unconscious of harm, or unsuspecting danger, till we were
awakened by a violent concussion of the ship, attended
with a most hideous crash. It was not long ere I was on
deck to learn the cause, and found that a sea had struck
her on the larboard bow, and carried away the binnacle,
the two boats, hencoops, and every thing else on the deck ;
happily, no lives were lost. It blew most tremendously
hard, the sea ran mountains high, and seemed to groan
most horribly at this conflict of nature, this war of ele-
ments. I could not help admiring the sublime spectacle,
and observing how much the science of navigation and
naval architecture had been improved since its first dis-
covery. When I reflected on the little row-boats of
which they made use in former days, and their being
obliged always to keep inland, and push into a har-
bour on the first appearance of a storm ;""" and when I
contrasted that with the present improved state of the
art and science (when such enormous bodies carrying
such heavy pieces of artillery are made use of not only
for the purposes of commerce, but also of war and
attack, by which a great part of the human race are
actually become tenants of the ocean) ; or when I con-
trasted it with my then present situation, tossed and
buifetted about at the mercy of the winds and waves,
sometimes apparently raised to the clouds above, and the
next moment sunk into the abyss below, and as sud-

* Anderson, vol. i. lutro. p. 81. Robertson's History C'f
America, vol. i. p. 5.

82 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

denlj overwhelmed by the surrounding waves, I could
not help thinking what praise was due to those who had
by their exertions tended to bring naval architecture and
the science of navigation to their present state of per-
fection ; and I am proud to acknowledge my countrymen
amongst the first promoters of this art and science. For
my own part, I rank Columbus and Cook amongst the
highest ornaments of the three last centuries ; and I take
equal pleasure in seeing a square-rigged vessel propor-
tionate in all its parts, as in viewing the most perfect
models of Grecian architecture. But, to return from this
digression. The gale in which we were continued to
increase without intermission for three days, when it blew
a perfect hurricane. During this time we learned that
the ship was considerably out of repair, and had suffered
very much from the storm ; that her beam-ends were
rotten, her sternposts loose, her iron works almost all
rusted away, her rudderbolts loose, her decks very much
out of repair, and that she wanted oakum in every part
of her. In this predicament it was not to be supposed
we thought ourselves very safe. She was almost a wreck,
and at one time made so much water, that we were
obliged to keep both pumps going. Accordingly, on the
third day, —

December 17th, — The captain, finding he could not gain
the coast, that the wind had no appearance of abating, and
that the ship was unable to stand against the hurricane any
longer, put her about, and resolved to bear away for the
Island of Bermuda, so celebrated by Waller, which lies in
N. L. 32° 20', W. L. 65°, and which was the nearest port to
which he could run. We had not been many hours on
this tack before we discovered a number of staves and

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 83

spars floating on the surface of the ocean, which seemed
to increase in quantity the further we proceeded. The
captain immediately conceived the sad catastrophe, and
ordered all hands aloft to look out for a wreck. In
about half an hour one of the men from the fore-top-
mast head descried something, he could not tell what.
"We accordingly bore down for it, and on coming up with
it, found it to be a brig, which had been upset apparently
the night before. Her keel was upwards, and the masts
(which were broken off, and retained by the rigging) ap-
peared to be fresh broken. She had no name on her stern.
All hands were ordered aloft again to look out for her
boat, to see if happily any of the crew escaped ; but our
efforts were unsuccessful, and we had every reason to
believe they met with a watery grave. We supposed she
was laden with staves and spars upon the deck ; and
that in scudding a sea had struck her on her quarter
and upset her ; in which case there would be no pro-
bability of any of the crew escaping, the event being so
instantaneous. I must confess this sight affected us very
much, and raised in us a sense of gratitude for our pre-
servation somewhat deeper than what we might otherwise
have been impressed with had we not seen it. It is
astonishing what great risks the New England men will
run sometimes, in endeavouring to save their property. I
have known them, when, in a gale of wind, their main
deck has been covered with spars lashed to each other,
to stand with the axe in their hand, and to run till the
last moment, at the imminent peril of being upset ; and
when they have at last observed the sea coming to strike
them in a dangerous quarter, they have cut the lashings
and let all go.

G 2

84 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

It was not long ere we came into the latitude of
Bermuda, tlie wind being very favourable ; and by our
stretching so far to the south-west and going right before
the wind, we soon got out of those violent north-westerly
gales which almost continually infest the American coast.
The Bermuda Islands lying very low are not seen at any
great distance, which makes them so difficult to make,
that is, to be discovered. We beat about here for three
days without being able to discover land, amidst the most
tempestuous weather; with which, it is* observed, these
islands are generally troubled. After carrying away
our mizen-topmast, and springing our fore-top, and
tearing our sails to pieces, we were obliged to give up the
pursuit, and bear away to the Island of Antigua.

In going from Bermuda to Antigua, we crossed what
are called the Horse Latitudes, extending from lat. 26°
to 28°, and so called from the great destruction of horses
between these limits ; for it is observed that it almost
always blows a hurricane here, or is a dead calm ; and as
the New England men trade a great deal in this species
of cattle to the West Indies, and carry them on the decks
of their vessels, they often get carried away, in the first
instance, by the sea breaking over the vessel, or else are
so long detained by the calm in these latitudes as to die
through want of provisions.

On the 25th of December, 1795, (Christmas- day,) we
crossed the tropic f of Cancer ; and here it was that Old

* I have heard the same remark made on the Western Islands,
and on the island which forms Cape Hatteras, — that there exist
generally very violent winds blowing out at sea for near one hun-
dred miles round the coast.

t Here we came into the influence of those steady gales which

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 85

Neptune, as is usual in such cases, came aboard and de-
manded a sight of those who had not entered the sanctum
sanctorum before. We were accordingly all drawn up, and
he soon signalized those who had never yet crossed the
line ; and having exacted his fine, departed. In case of
non-compliance we should have been punished agreeably
to the manner prescribed in such cases, and which is
called shaving; it is this : — the sailors place you on a
stick over a large tub of water ; and, at a signal given,
the stick is knocked from under, and you fall backwards
into the tub over your head and ears in water ; when you
raise your head it is immediately smeared over with pitch
and tar, and all the filth they can gather about the ship,
and if they can introduce any into your mouth they will
be so much the more satisfied and delighted.

December '2,1 th. — About four o'clock this morning, the
moon shining very bright, and the weather being very
serene and pleasant, to our great joy we discovered land
ahead, which we soon after found to be the Island of
Barbuda, and by daylight saw Antigua. Barbuda is a
flat island, extending about twenty miles in length and
twelve in breadth ; it contains but few families. We
coasted along the leeward side of it, as near as the rocks,
which extend a great way out at sea, and are very dan-
gerous to navigators, would permit us; we could observe
the cattle on the shore, which, with the green trees and
constant verdure with which these islands are perpetually
blessed, was a most pleasing sight to us who had been on
the wide ocean so long, and had escaped so many dangers.

perpetually blow, with some little variation, from one point of the
compass the whole year round ; and are well known by sailors
under the name of trade-winds.

86 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

Barbuda lies very low compared with the other West
India islands, for they mostly appear to be exceeding high
mountains, particularly the Island of Saba, belonging to
the Dutch, which appears now at an amazing distance off,
in the shape of a cone, and whose summit seems to reach
the skies. About twelve o'clock, on our hoisting a signal,
a pilot came on board ; and in the afternoon we anchored
in St. John's roads, being unable to go into the harbour,
owing to a bar which crosses the mouth of it, and
which prevents vessels of any great burthen passing it
without first unlading. In the evening we went ashore,
and having found out a boarding-house, we took our
abode there this night.

December 28th. — Never having dreamed that such an
unforeseen event should befal us, neither myself nor any
of my fellow passengers had brought any letters of intro-
duction or credit to this part of the world, so that we
were in a truly unfortunate situation, especially on hear-
ing to-day, that on a review by the ship carpenters ap-
pointed to examine the ship, she had been declared to be
not sea-ivorihi/, and to be totally unfit for the purposes of
navigation, by which event we were obliged to look out
for another vessel to take us to the continent. However,
in a country where benevolence and hospitality are so
prevalent, we did not remain long without enjoying their
effects; for the Hon. Edward Byam, Esq., the president
of the Island, and the Hon. Thomas Norbury Kerby, Esq.,
the treasurer, hearing that the ship had put into the port
in distress, and that there were several passengers aboard,
immediately sent to us, and in the most polite and
ingenuous manner offered us their assistance. They took
a great deal of trouble to provide us with a comfortable

JOUR]!^AL OF A TOUE. 87

boarding-house, invited us to their table, and furnished us
with every means necessary to make our stay in the
island pleasant and agreeable ; and I am happy thus
to acknowledge their generous conduct and unsolicited
assistance.

Antigua (which lies in N'. L. 17° 30', W. L. 62° 5') is
about twenty miles in diameter, and about fifty in cir-
cumference ; it is, like the rest of the West India islands
which I have seen, very hilly and rocky ; nevertheless,
some parts of it are very fertile. There are very few or
no trees upon it but such as are raised for fruit, as
oranges, lemons, limes, cocoas, &c., most of the country
being laid out in plantations.* In going to English
Harbour, during my stay on the island, I passed over
several hills of solid rock, without any layer of earth on
them ; many of them were prodigiously high, and by
some convulsion of nature several large pieces of rock
had been thrown off into the valley beneath, some of
which were as large as a moderate-sized house. The
view of the distant islands of Nevis, St. Kitts, Montserrat,
and Guadaloupe, and the views of the sea from different
parts of this highly romantic country, added to that
agreeable variety of hill and dale, with which this
island is interspersed, make the scenery very pictu-
resque and enchanting. The roads are very bad, so
much so that I was almost afraid to venture myself in

* There is neither river nor spring in the whole island, so that
they are obliged to make use of rain water, which they preserve in
large stone reservoirs made in the ground, into which all the rain
which falls on their houses is conducted by pi-oper spouts ; and
this, if it stands any length of time, becomes green, and full of
living animals. Some make use of wooden butts set up on end.

88 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

one of their sulkeys, a conveyance made a good deal like
a one-horse chaise in England ; it has a top to it, sup-
ported by two iron rods, and leather curtains are made
to let down on both sides and behind, in case of rain ;
when this is the case, and the person happens to be
driving to windward, he lets down the curtains, turns the
sulkey round, with its back to the wind, and waits till the
squall is over, then, putting up the curtains, again pur-
sues his journey.

St. John's, which is the capital "^'^ of the island, is a
miserable-looking place, there being to outward appear-
ance scarcely a decent house in it, though many of
them are fitted up tolerably well in the inside ; the
houses are mostly built of wood, with nothing but a
ground floor, which consists of a hall and two or three
bedrooms. The hall is the first place you enter, and
faces the street, and is generally the only room the inha-
bitants have to sit in ; it is therefore built large, for the
benefit of the air. Glass windows are but little made
use of ; the climate being so hot, they are continued
open, with shutters affixed to keep out the rain. Their
beds are a mattress, stufibd hard, and raised in the middle

* It looks more like a country village running to ruins than the
capital of an island. Possibly my just coming from England
might heighten the effect which this apparently ruinous place
produced on my mind. Mr. Cox takes notice of the different
appearance which places and things had, according to the country
through which he had antecedently travelled. " On again entering
Schauffhausen," says he, "the 18th of July, 1786, I was not so
much struck with its neatness as in 1776. The reason is obvious :
In my former expetlition I emerged from the wilds of Suabia ; on
the latter occasion I had just quitted the cultivated parts of Ba-
varia."— Travels throiigh Stvitzerland, vol. i. p. 4.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 89

(a feather bed would be too warm), over which a single
sheet is thrown ; and round the whole is a fine gauze
curtain to keep off the mosquitos, which are very trouble-
some. The town is divided into streets crossing each
other at right angles ; but no attention is paid to the
building of the houses, being patched up in a slovenly
manner, and some of them no better than huts. The
streets are in the same condition, none of them being
paved or kept in the least order, but great stones and
rubbish thrown into them, which renders it very trou-
blesome walking or riding ; in flict, the inhabitants
walk very little here, for if they want to go to any place,
far or near, they order out their horses. The ladies ride
about in sulkeys. There is a tavern near the water-side,
kept by one Scotland, which, by the by, appears no
better than a country ale-house in England ; it is made
use of as a kind of exchange, and in the evening is fre-
quented by many of the inhabitants, who there play in
the public room at cards, dice, backgammon, and other
games, and sometimes considerable sums of money are
lost. There is no playhouse nor assembly-room in the
place, though sometimes the inhabitants act a play
among themselves, and sometimes there are private
dances.

Among the public buildings of this place, there are
only two, excepting the church, which deserve attention ;
these are the barracks and the court-house. The former
is commodiously built at the upper end of the town, on
an eminence, and commands a fine view of St. John's
and its harbour ; it is of brick, and I suppose would con-
tain five hundred men. The court-house is a stone
building, and, for the place, a very elegant edifice, well

90 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

fitted up for the purpose, with the diiTerent necessary
offices. It stands nearly in the middle of the town.
Besides these there are the jail, the guard-house, and the
fort, but there is nothing in them to merit particular
attention.

January Srd, 1796. — Three of my fellow-passengers
and myself proposed going to English Harbour, about
twelve miles distant ; and accordingly, having hired two
sulkeys, we set off about eight o'clock in the morning,
and got to English Harbour to breakfast. There are no
taverns in this country, except the one at St. John's, so
that our visit was made to a gentleman with whom we
had formed some slight acquaintance during our stay.
In a country where hospitality is so prevalent as it
is here, that natural reserve so characteristic of Eng-
lishmen soon wears off, and a mutual interchange of sen-
timents and good offices takes place, which sets aside
every idea of intrusion, or of being an unwelcome guest.
After breakfast we went to view the harbour, which is
one of the finest in the West Indies. It consists of an
inlet of the sea between two very high rocks, the passage
between which is very narrow and almost perpendicular.
Within, it forms a kind of basin, sheltered on every
side by high hills, and of such a depth as to allow a
seventy-four to be hove down alongside the yard. During
the heaviest gales a ship may ride here with perfect safety,
the water being as smooth and as tranquil as in a river.
The yard is fitted up with every requisite for a place of
this kind.

The town of English Harbour (if a town it may be
called) consists of about thirty or forty houses, lying
scattered about on the side of one of those hills which

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 91

form the harbour. There is no prospect from the town
itself, being surrounded bj a mountainous country ; but
from the tops of the hills you have a delightful view of
the country and the neighbouring islands. There is a
fort on one of these hills, which commands the entrance
of the harbour, and which, as well as the fort at St. John's*
shows by signals when any vessel appears in the offing, as
well as the course she is going, and her bearing from the
land. On our return from this place in the evening, we
were astonished at the continual noise made by the
lizards and other reptiles and insects with which the
whole island abounds : it was so loud, that it was with
difficulty we could hear each other speak : it had the
sound of a number of horse-bells ringing at the same
time. The lizard is a beautiful little animal, about four
or five inches long in the body, with a tail about three
or four inches; some of them are beautifully spotted
with variegated colours, generally green and gold : they
frequent the leaves of the sugar-cane very much. I have
seen sometimes three or four on one leaf basking in the
sun. Their motion when disturbed is amazingly quick,
almost too much so for the eye.

We were attended on our journey to English Harbour
by two negroes, whom the owner of the sulkeys had sent to
take care of the horses on our arrival there. I could not,
for my soul, help pitying the poor creatures, who kept
up a constant running on the side of us the whole way.
This I had seen practised before, during my residence on
the island, as scarcely any person goes to a place where
he expects to stop without his slave to take care of the
horse ; and this slave must not ride, but run behind, and
keep up as well as he can : sometimes he may be in-

92 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

dulged by his master's suffering him to lay hold of the
horse's tail. In this manner I have several times seen
negroes following their master, not unusually with the
whip in their hand to save him the trouble of carrying it.
I have often thought, when I have been witness to this
ludicrous scene, that the master deserved the whip much
more than the poor beast.

Witli respect to the negroes, though they are treated
in this island with more lenity than in any other of the
West Indies, yet I had too frequent opportunities of
beholding the unhappy and inhuman consequences of
such an abominable traffic as the slave-trade. When I
went to the plantations to see the process of making the
sugar, I beheld in different parts negroes standing with
their whips, which every now and then they would
exercise on the backs of those who, perhaps but for the
moment, neglected to proceed in their various employ-
ments : some to bring the cane stalks from the field to the
mill ; some to take away the stalks which had been pressed ;
and others to feed the fire which kept the cauldrons
boiling in which the expressed juice of the cane was placed.
I could not but commiserate their unhappy situation :
unhappy, perhaps, I should not say, in the strictly logical
sense of the word ; because, as happiness is a relative
term, they may, no doubt, if they can reconcile them-
selves to their unfortunate state, enjoy as great a share
of that invaluable blessing, as one born under more
favourable circumstances. Why, then, disturb them ?
Perhaps, in such circumstances, we ought not ; but as it
requires some time before they can be brought to this
reconciliation, and as every man must undergo the most
severe and afllicting tortures both of body and mind, in

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 93

being deprived of family and friends, torn from his native
country, and thrown in chains into the dark hold of a
prison ship, deprived of every mean^'' which may tend to
make the rugged path of his pilgrimage in this v^^orld the
more smooth or comfortable, at once cut off from every
hope of escape from a horde of Christian barbarians : I
say, the struggles he must encounter during this dark
period of misery and oppression, are such as no man, nor
nation of men, has a right to inflict on another.

With respect to their being by nature a more depraved
and degenerate race of men than the whites, it is too
unphilosophical as well as absurd to be insisted upon.
What is attributed to nature, arises from their mode of
being brought up ; and had they the same advantages of
education, they would equal the whites in the improve-
ment of their mental faculties. That they are idle,
stupid, and depraved under the present system of things,
I do not much wonder. Toiling the whole day in the
service of their master, wearied at night with the daily
routine of labour, and not reaping any benefit from
exertions, which, had they that stimulus, they might
be prompted to perform, they are of course idle. Not
having the advantages of an education, insulted and

* Among the very few corrections I have made, I should have
included the substitution of raeans for mean : but this particular
word has a charter. Mr. Baily, at that time at least, was under the
erroneous impression that the last letter in means is the plural s.
In the letter to Noah "Webster, mentioned in page 4, one of the
errors attributed is the use of the supposed plural, when the sense
was singular. As I should not be justified in allowing any curious
biographer, who might consult the New York Gazette, to impute
to Mr. Baily the accusation of a practice in which he himself
indulged, I have let the word stand. — Ed.

94 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

beaten by a merciless and unfeeling animal in the
shape of a man, they become unconscious of their
own dignity in the scale of created beings ; the use of
those mental faculties, given them by a beneficent
Creator, becomes perverted ; and they are branded by
those very persons, through whose conduct the effect is
accomplished, with the epithet of a stupid and depraved
race of men. Yet under all these disadvantages, I have
met with many of them who have been active, indus-
trious, and of a good moral character ; and, what is still
more remarkable, have had, for people in their situation,
very refined and exalted ideas of liberty. I do not mean
the late Jacobinical system of liberty, where any adven-
turer, if he find another with property, claims the liberty
of going his halves, or, what would be more consonant to
his wishes, of seizing the whole ; but that system which
has equal rights and the protection of life and property
for its foundation.

Believe me, that, however much interested men may
defend this horrid traffic, and with whatever sophistry
they may endeavour to justify it, still there are points
which must strike home to the feelings of every one, and
tell him that such a perversion of the noblest faculties of
man, such an unnatural exercise of an unsurped power,
and the practice of such a system of tyrannical oppression,
is indefensible, both upon the common principles of
natural justice, and of divine instruction.

Provisions, during the time we were at Antigua, were
very dear, owing in a great measure to the uncertainty of
supplies, and the greater consumption during a state of
war. Fresh beef, 15d. per lb.; salt ditto, 72s. per
barrel ; mutton, lOd. per lb. ; bread, 4id. ; pilot bread,

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 95

54s. per barrel; flour, 67s. 6d. ditto; Irish butter,
63s. per firkin ; old rum, 4s. 6d. to 5s. per gallon ;
rum, by the hhd., 3s. to 3s. 4d. per gallon ; fowls, 22s.
per doz. ; coffee, 15d. per lb. ; brown sugar, 12d. and 13d.
per lb. (an astonishing price for a sugar country) ; a
roasting pig, 4s. 6d. ; oranges, 12d. per hundred ; limes,
6d. per hundred ; cocoa nuts, 3d. each, and pine apples, 2d.
These are all sterling* prices. The price of a labourer,
by the single day, half a dollar ; for the week, 1 dollar,
and 2s. for hisf board. Boarding and lodging, with a
good table of three different dishes every day, to be
had for 2 dollars per day, fruit and liquors included.
The inhabitants of this island live very much upon
fish, being very fine, and in great abundance. The
money which passes in this island is an assemblage
of all the coins on the face of the world : any gold coin
will pass here for its own weight ; but, as to silver coin,
no other passes but the Spanish dollar and its smaller
parts. The dollar is reckoned at 8s. 3d. ; and so scarce
is silver, that they exact a quarter of a dollar for
changing a Johannes, a piece of gold worth eight dollars.

January 21s^, 1796. — Finding that the Jay has been
condemned by a Court of Vice-Admiralty, as unfit for
the sea, and that she was to be sold for the benefit of the
underwriters, I engaged this day with Capt. Woodberry, of
the schooner Friendship, bound to Norfolk, in Virginia,
and who was ready to sail the first fair wind. Accord-
ingly, putting my trunks aboard, I prepared to take leave

* It is to be observed, that all the prices mentioned in this book
are reduced to sterling money,

t The hire of a sulkey for the day, 6 dollars ; for a single horse,
3 dollars.

96 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

of this delightful island, where I had received so many
marks of generous and hospitable treatment. Whilst I
remained on the island there were three more vessels
driven into the port in distress, in endeavouring to make
the coast of America, and which had been driven off by
the same gale of wind we were. I am also informed,
that there have arrived several at the other islands, so
that its effects must have been dreadful. I was told by
a very respectable merchant here, that it is no uncommon
thing at this season of the year to be driven off the coast,
as the north-west winds prevail so very much ; and he
expressed his surprise, that persons who undertake the
voyage at this time of the year do not furnish themselves
with letters of credit to some one in the islands, in case
of such an accident, as it was seldom they brought
money out with them : I told him, it was for want of the
fact being more generally known.

; You ask me, what were the most remarkable occurrences
or curiosities I met with during my voyage. The first
and most obvious is the luminousness of the sea, which is
so often remarked, and yet so unsatisfactorily accounted for.
The first time I observed it was the second or third night
after being out at sea, and then I saw it to very great
advantage. It appeared at first sight as if the bottom
of the ship were on fire ; and the sparks and luminous
smoke rising on each side to the surface of the water. I
do not know that I can describe its general appearance
better than in the words of Father Bourzes, in his* voyage
to the Indies, t You must observe that it does not always

* Probably alluding to a paper by Bourzes on tbe luminosity of the
sea, publisliecl in tbe Phil. Trans, for 1713, or thereabouts. — Ed,
t Some of them were like points of light, others such as stai's

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 97

make this grand spectacle ; in fact, very seldom, — not
more than a few sparks, and a luminous appearance of
the foam of the sea round the ship's sides. On what par-
ticular properties or circumstances the alteration of this
phenomencm depends, or what is the real cause of the
phenomenon itself, remains to be determined. Mr. Can-
ton's opinion, that it arises from the phosphoric property
of dead fish, is the most probable. That it does not
depend on any known laws of electricity I am well con-
vinced in my own mind. What an immense quantity of
fishes must have putrified since the creation ! May not
the admixture of the phosphoric particles of such fish
with the body of water in the ocean, conduce to this
phenomenon 1 It is observed that it does not take place
unless the water be put in motion ; and when this is the
case, the appearance will take place (though difierent in
degree, according to some unknown laws) at any time.
The course of fishes may be marked out by the luminous
track they leave behind, and if you take up a bucket of
water from the sea, and dash it on the deck, it disperses
into little sparks, and assumes a general luminous ap-
pearance. Even the agitation of the waves by the wind is
sufiicient to produce the efiect, but in a weaker degree,
having then the appearance of an aurora borealis on the
water. May not some parts of the sea be more fully
impregnated with these phosphoric particles than others,

appear to the naked eye ; some of them were like globes of a line
or two in diameter and others as big as one's head. Sometimes
they fonned themselves into squares of three or four inches long
and one or two broad. Sometimes all these figures were visible at
the same time ; and sometimes there were what he calls vortices of
light.

H

98 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

which may account for the difference of degree which is
observed to take place in this phenomenon at different
times 1 However, these are only loose hints thrown out :
you will be better able to judge than I where the truth
lies.

The flying-fish, of which you wished a description, is a
genus exocetus, belonging to the order of abdominales:
it is about the size of a small herring ; its head is scaly,
and has no teeth ; its body is whitish, and the pectoral
fins (the means of its flight) are very large, which, when
it is pursued, it spreads out, and by that means raises
itself from the water and flies to a considerable distance,
till the fins become dry, and then it falls down again into
the water ; or, sometimes flying against the sails, it falls
down on the deck of the ship. They are met with in
large quantities in warm climates ; they seldom fly unless
pursued by their devourers, and then they are often
caught by the gulls and other sea-birds, or else they drop
down again into the jaws of their pursuer, who keeps pace
below with their aerial flight above. They generally
fly in shoals together ; and I have often commiserated
their unhappy lot when I have observed them flying from
instant death, and, unable to sustain themselves, just
dipping their fins in the ocean, and renewing their flight ;
and this for several times successively, till at last, over-
come with fatigue, they have sunk to rise no more.

I was surprised, on leaving the coast of England, to find
the colour of the sea change from that green hue with which
it is always represented, and assume a dark blue colour,
though still perfectly transparent when taken up in a
glass. Its re-assuming the green hue indicates approaching
land .

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 99

I sailed from Antigua on the 2Uh of January, 1796.
We came out of the harbour by sunrise ; it was most
serenely pleasant ; the sun was just peeping above the
horizon, and hastening to bestow his favour on an
ungrateful world : the atmosphere was clear and bright,
and, what was more desirable to us as sailors, the wind
most charmingly propitious. My pen fails me when I
attempt to describe to you our most delightful voyage
along the coast of these romantic islands ; — the scenery
of the country so highly picturesque, — blessed with so
perpetual a verdure ; and all united, raised in me so
great an admiration of these stupendous and sportive
works of nature, that I could not but regret when they
sunk below the horizon from my sight.

After a most pleasant passage of three weeks, I arrived
at Norfolk, in Virginia, on the \ith of February ; and
now being on the holy ground, you will naturally expect
a description of the country, the situation and trade of
its towns, and remarks on every particular I may think
worthy of observation. This much I shall do (if you
will give me a patient hearing) in as unbiassed and
unprejudiced a manner as I am able ; embellishments I
shall not so much seek after as a plain narration of
facts ; and to this end you must travel with me in the
same order I travel myself in this country. First, then,
let me begin with Norfolk. On our landing at this place,
we directed our steps, by the pilot's advice, to the Eagle
Tavern, kept by Street, who is also the Major* of the

* This may perhaps surprise you, but it is no uncommon thing
in this country for a citizen to be in a military employment. The
fact is, they are all soldiers, which prevents the necessity of keep-
ing up a standing army in time of peace.

H 2

100 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

fort on the river. On inquiring whether we could be
accommodated with beds there, the landlord, without
rising from his seat, answered with a seeming kind of
indifference that " he guessed'*' we could." Having
satisfied ourselves so far, we requested our trunks to be
taken into the rooms intended for us ; and this, after
some difficulty, we got accomplished. Our rooms agreed
with the spirit and disposition of our liost, — none of
those ornamental appendages, or luxurious downy beds, so
unbecoming the character of those who call themselves
republicans ; but everything corresponding to the habits
of those who pretend to look with a degree of contempt on
the degeneracy of a luxurious age. Four beds in a room
crowded pretty close together ; these beds laid on a kind
of frame without any curtains, and the room itself
without any ornament, save the bare white wall, indi-
cated, without any other assurance, my removal into a
strange country. It was about the middle of the day
when we arrived here ; and we were soon ushered in to
dinner, when I saw about forty people (consisting of
boardersf in the house, and inhabitants^ of the town )
sitting down to a long table covered with a profusion of
every necessary, in a plain but plentiful way. During
meals a general conversation is commenced, which is

* A common mode of expression among the Yankees.

t Persons who put up at any of the taverns in America, when
they stop two or three days, pay the same per day, whether they
eat anything in the house or not ; hence the general term
" boarders."

% It is very common for those people in the large towns of
America who do not keep house to board at the taverns ; and
they, together with whatever company may be in the house, all sit
down at one table.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 101

continued without reserve ; and in this manner, two
strangers, who had never seen one another before, will
become as intimate as if they had known each other for
years. After dinner the whole company rise and depart
to their different engagements ; and it is seldom or never
that you see them sit drinking after the cloth is removed.
This, to be sure, is an exemplary practice ; but still, as
the sum of human perfection is never complete in one
man, or set of men, they have other foibles and vices
which counterbalance these good qualities, of which, that
passion for gaming, so characteristic of this state in
particular (Virginia), is the most predominant. Thus,
what time is so laudably saved from the bottle, is thrown
away* at the billiard-table, a cock-fight, or at cards. I
believe there are near a dozen of the former in this little
place, which are crowded during the whole of the after-
noon, and till late at night. To these (in this land of
equality) any person is admitted, and you sometimes see
there a collection of curious characters, some of them
not of the most respectable cast ; but still, when it comes
to their turn, they will have their game, notwithstanding
there may be some of the first people in the country
waiting to play.

The town of Norfolk is a poor-looking place. It is
situated on the river Elizabeth, and on the opposite side
is the town of Portsmouth, about the same size as !N"or-
folk. Here are still the ruins of those houses to be seen
which were burnt during the contest with Lord Dunmore
at the commencement of the last war. The spirit of
improvement has not extended so far as to have them

* This, however, will apply only to the southern states.

102 JOURNAL OF A TOUli.

rebuilt ; which makes it appear like a town* running to
ruins. It has not one public building to set it off.
There is not much foreign trade carried on from this place,
except to the West Indies. Their vessels consist chiefly
of the smaller sort, as sloops and schooners. I do not
remember seeing a single ship whilst I was there, except
one which had put in in distress. The New-England
men, who are a most industrious race of people, trade a
great deal to this place ; they bring them turnery ware,
upholstery, home-made linens and cloths, cheese, butter,
and, in fact, any thing for which they can get a market.
These they expose for sale on the decks of their vessels,
where they keep a kind of shop, and where you may
purchase ever so small a quantity. The country about
Norfolk is flat, and of a sandy soil, which makes it un-
pleasant to travel by land in the summer season. The
price of provisions at this place is considerably advanced
since Mr. Cooper's book was published. This I do not men-
tion as any disparagement of that work, but to show you
how great a difference there actually is between the present
pricef of things and when he wrote. The present price
of the following articles is (in sterling money) as under :
— Indian corn, 4s, 6d, per bushel ; wheat, 8s. per bushel ;
oats, from 2s. to 2s. 3d, per bushel ; flour, 63s. per barrel
(a barrel of flour contains 196 lbs.); coffee, 13d. per lb. ;

* I observed that most of the houses in this place were fur-
nished with a conductor, a plan which cannot be too much recom-
mended ; by which means the lightning, which in this country is
at times very prevalent, is disarmed of its destructive powers.

f That the prices mentioned by Mr. Cooper were the actual
prices at the time his information was received, I believe may be
depended on, as I had his book with me, and made particular
inquiries.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 103

butter, 7d. per lb. ; brown sugar, from 7d, to 9d. per lb. ;
West India rum, 9s. per gallon ; apple brandy, 5s. 8d.
per gallon ; London porter, 13s. 6d, per dozen ; beef, 4jd.
per lb. ; pork, 76s. 6d. per barrel ; turkeys, from 3s. to
9s. each; salt, 3s. 9d. per bushel ; firewood, from lis. to
20s. per cord (a cord is a pile of wood 8 feet long and 4
feet high and broad) ; coals, 74d. per bushel ; iron, 34d.
per lb. ; sheep, 9s. each ; eggs, 1 3d. per dozen. Articles
of wearing apparel somewhat dearer than in the northern
states of America. For board and lodging whilst I was
there, they charged one dollar per day, for which they
provide you with breakfast and dinner only: if you
eat supper, (which here is very seldom done,) you are
charged separately for it. Their breakfasts * consist of
beefsteaks, sausages, stewed veal, fried ham, eggs, coffee
and tea, and a dish, or rather a cahe, peculiar to the
southern states, made out of the meal of Indian corn, and
called hoe-cahe, of which the inhabitants are very fond.
Its taste I do not dislike when buttered and eaten with
eggs, though to many it is disagreeable : it is simply a
mixture of Indian meal and water, and baked on an iron
plate over the fire. Having stayed in this placet about a

* This preparation, which seems more fit for a dinner than a
breakfast, is common all over America.

t Whilst at this place we buried the landlord of our inn. He
was a major in the artillery, and, agreeably to the ancient custom,
a fieldpiece was discharged over his grave after the coflSn had been
let down. On firing it, the lid of the coflin flew up, owing to the
rarefaction of the air caused by the firing of the gun too close, and
which made some of the old women run away, as they either
fancied he was come to life again, or that his ghost was rising out
of his grave. This circumstance is similar to one I found after-
wards recorded in the "Phil. Mag.," vol. ix., p. 361, resj)ecting

104 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

week, I proceeded on my way to NeAv York, and for this
end took my passage on board a packet bound to Bal-
timore, in the state of Maryland, intending to go the
remaining part of the way by land. These packets (of
which there are a number continually plying between
Norfolk and Baltimore) are something like the Margate
hoys in England. They will accommodate twelve or fif-
teen people very comfortably, and it is by far the most
agreeable way of travelling'''' in America. Our course lay
up the Chesapeak bay, which is from fifteen to twenty
miles wide, and about three hundred miles long ; it is
agreeably interspersed with a number of small islands,
which (with the neighbouring shore gradually ascending,
and covered with the most stately forests^ with every here
and there a road breaking through this confused mass of
plantations) made our voyage most extremely delightful and
pleasant. I thought at first sight that the Chesapeak would
make a good harbour for shipping, but was informed that
it was quite the reverse, being very dangerous in a gale of
wind. After a fine run up the bay, we arrived at Balti-
more about five o'clock in the evening, February 25th,
1796. Here we observed quite a different appearance
from that we had remarked at Norfolk. Instead of that
apparent decay of trade^ that want of emulation, and pro-
pensity for gaming, we beheld everywhere that spirit of
improvement so congenial to a free and flourishing people,
— the streets resounding with the busy hum of men, and

the blowing up of a powder mill, when the doors and windows of
an adjoining building were forced open outwards by the explosion.
* I paid ten dollars for my passage, for which the captain
furnished us very plentifully. If you provide for yourselfj you
pay only six dollars.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 105

indicating a taste for tlie refinements* and enjoyments of
civilized society. This town,f which, thirty years ago, did
not contain thirty houses, is now a large flourishing place,
containing near 20,000 inhabitants. It is built in a
hollow, and on each side of the town there is a gradual
rising, from the top of which there is a most delightful
view of the harbour and the adjacent country, including
the river Patapsco. The harbour is formed by an inlet of
this river ; and the mouth of it, which is about four miles
from the town, is but pistol-shot across, where there is a
fort, which is sufficient to protect it against any naval
force.

The streets of the city are built at right angles, after
the manner of Philadelphia,J and are all paved with brick
and stone, but not lighted with lamps.

There is a very good library established here lately
by subscription. There are also two daily newspapers
published, which shows at least that the inhabitants
encourage a taste for literature and reading amongst
themselves.

On a little run of water which empties itself into the
harbour, there are several mills erected, the chief of which
are appropriated to the making of flour, of which article
there is a great quantity exported from this place.

I do not know of any public building in this place,

* There are two excellent taverns in tMs place, ■where our
accommodations were much better than at Norfolk, though still
not to be compared to the old country.

t It has lately been made a city, with a mayor and corporation,
elected annually by the body of the people. 1798.

% This is a plan of which the Americans are very fond, and I
think with reason, as it is by far the best way of laying out a city.
All the modern-built towns in America are on this principle.

106 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

except the court-house, which is very old, and is going to
be rebuilt. There is a neat little playhouse, consisting of
a pit capable of containing about 300 persons, and two
rows of boxes, but no gallery. There is also an assembly-
room, where there are assemblies, during the winter sea-
son, once a fortnight.

Thus, you see, the Baltimorians are not behindhand
in the enjoyment of those sweets which tend to enliven
the hours that are not taken up in the daily routine
of a mercantile employment, or the necessary cares of
a family.

The prices of the following articles, whilst I was at
Baltimore, were : — Beef, 7d. per lb. ; mutton, 5 Jd. per
lb. ; fowls, 13d. each ; butter, 13d. per lb. ; cabbages,
18d. each; hay, 4s. 6d. per 100 lbs.; peaches (during
the summer season,) 13d. per dozen.

The following articles were sold at Vendue,* a mode
of sale not uncommon in America ; and in this town, by
no means disreputable, as there are but two Vendue
masters licensed to act in the place ; which keeps the
profession out of improper hands : — Best Cogniac brandy
(as fine as any I ever tasted), 8s. 6d. per gallon ;
common brandy, from 5s. to 7s. per gallon ; Antigua rum,
3'^' proof, 6s. 8d. per gallon; sherry wine, 4s. 6d. per
gallon ; Teneriffe wine, 4s. per gallon ; claret, 1.9s. to 22s.
per dozen ; coifee, 2s. per lb. ; cotton, entitled to draw-
back, 19d. per lb. ; brown sugar, 63s. per cwt. ; clayed
sugar, 73s. per hhd. ; common bohea tea, 12jd. per lb. ;
green ditto, 5s. 6d. per lb. ; mustard, 5s. lOd. per doz.

* The same as our sales by auction ; and a practice whicli is
very much abused iu many of the large towns on that conti-
nent.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR, 107

lbs. ; ginger, lid. per lb. The above were sold in large
quantities.

There being no turnpikes in America, the roads are, of
course, very bad in winter, though excellent in summer. I
waited at Baltimore near a week before I could proceed
on mj journey, the roads being rendered impassable.
There is, at present, but one turnpike-road on the conti-
nent, which is between Lancaster and Philadelphia, a
distance of sixty-six miles, and is a masterpiece of its
kind ; it is paved with stone the whole way, and over-
laid with gravel, so that it is never obstructed during
the most severe season. This practice is going to be
adopted in other parts of that public-spirited* state,
though none of the other states have yet come into the
measure.

From Baltimore to Philadelphia are ninety-eight miles ;
between which places there is no want of conveyance,
as there are three or four stages run daily. In one
of these I placed myself on the morning of March Srd,
1796. A description of them perhaps would be
amusing. The body of the carriage is closed in, about
breast high ; from the sides of which are raised six or
eight small perpendicular posts, which support a covering
— so that it is in fact a kind of open coach. From the
top are suspended leather curtains, which may be either
drawn up in fine weather, or let down in rainy or cold
weather ; and which button at the bottom. The inside
is fitted up with four seats, placed one before the other ;
so that the whole of the passengers face the horses ; each
seat will contain three passengers ; and the driver sits on

* Pennsylvania.

108 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

the foremost, under the same cover with the rest of the
company. The whole is suspended on springs ; and the
way to get into it is in front, as if you were getting into
a covered cart. This mode of travelling, and which is
the only one used in America, is very pleasant, as you
enjoy the country much more agreeably than when
imprisoned in a close coach, inhaling and exhaling the
same air a thousand times over, like a cow chewing
the cud ; hut then it is not quite so desirable in dis-
agreeable* weather.

We had not proceeded far on our journey before we
began to encounter some of those inconveniences to which
every person who travels in this country in vimter time is
exposed. The roads, which in general were very bad,
would in some places be impassable, so that we were
obliged to get out and walk a considerable distance, and
sometimes to " put our shoulders to the wheel f and this
in the most unpleasant weather, as well as in the midst
of mire and dirt. However, we did manage to get twelve
miles to breakfast ; and after that, to a little place called
Bush, about thirteen miles farther, to dinner ; and about
nine o'clock at night we came to Havre de Grace, about
twelve miles further, to supper ; having walked nearly
half the way up to our ancles in mud, in a most inclement
season. Havre de Grace is a pretty little place, most
delightfully situated on the banks of the Susquehannah
river, which at this place is about a quarter of a mile

* "In these stages," as Brissot observes, " yoii meet with men of
all professions. The member of congress is placed by the side of
the shoemaker who elected him ; they fraternise together, and con-
verse with familiarity. You see no person here take upon him
those important airs which you too often meet with in England."

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 109

broad ; it is about a couple of miles a])ove the mouth
of the river, where it empties into the Chesapeak bay ;
a fine view of which you have from the town. An
excellent tavern is kept here by Mr. Barney (brother to
the Commodore), and which is frequented by parties in
the shooting season, for the sake of the wild fowl with
which the Susquehannah so plentifully abounds ; the
canvass-back, a most delicious bird, frequents this river,
and is found nowhere else in America. Next morning we
got ferried across the river, and, breakfasting at the
tavern on the other side, proceeded on our journey,
encountering the same difficulties we had done the pre-
ceding day. About three miles from Barney's is a little
place, called Principio, situated in a highly romantic
country, where there is a large foundry for cannon and
works for boring them, situated in a valley surrounded
by a heap of rocks ; the wheels of the works are turned
by a stream of water running over some of these precipices.
About three miles from this is another delightful little
place, called Charleston ; I mean, with respect to its situa-
tion; as to the town itself, it does not seem to improve at all,
at which I very much wonder, as it is most advantageously
situated at the head of the Chesapeak, of which and the
country adjoining it commands a full and most charming
view. We got about nine miles farther, to a town called
Elkton, to dinner. This place has nothing in it to attract
the attention of travellers. I shall therefore pass it by,
to inform you that we intended getting to Newport,
about eighteen miles, to sleep. It was four o'clock before
we started ; and we had not proceeded far on these
miserable roads, ere night overtook us ; and, as the fates
would have it, our unlucky coachman drove us into a

110 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

miry bog ; and, in spite of all our endeavours, we could
not get the coach out again ; we were therefore obliged
to leave it there, with the whole of the baggage, all night ;
and were driven to the necessity of seeking our way in
the dark to the nearest house, which was about a mile
and a half off ; there, getting ourselves cleaned, and a good
supper, we went to bed. Next morning we found every
thing just as we left it ; and, getting another coach, we
proceeded on our journey, and, dining at Chester, got to
Philadelphia about nine o'clock in the evening, com-
pletely tired of our ride, having been three days and
three nights on the road.

I would not have been thus particular, but I wished to
give you a specimen of the American mode of travelling,
though you will understand that these difficulties are to
be met with only at that season of the year when the
frost breaks up, and the roads get sadly out of order ;
for in summer time nothing can be more agreeable, ex-
peditious, and pleasant. The fare from Baltimore to
Philadelphia is 6 dollars, or 27s., and the customary
charges on the road are -J dollar for breakfast, 1 dollar
for dinner, wine not included, ^ dollar for supper, and
J dollar for beds. These are their general prices, and
they charge the same whatever they provide for you. By
this, you will observe that travelling in these settled
parts of the country is about as expensive as in England.

The country between Baltimore and Philadelphia is of
a clayey nature, mixed with a kind of gravel ; yet still,
in the hands of a skilful farmer, capable of yielding good
produce. The land on each side the road, and back into
the country, was pretty well cultivated, and (though
winter) bore marks of industry and economy. Hedges

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. Ill

are not frequent ; but instead of them they place split
logs angular-wise on each other, making what they call a
"worm fence," and which is raised about five feet high.
This looks very slovenly, and, together with the stumps of
trees remaining in all the new-cleared plantations, is a
great desight to the scenery of the country.

To give you a description of Philadelphia, which has
been so often and so fully described, would be unneces-
sary. That perfect regularity in which it is built, is said
not to be approved of by some ; but it is what I most
admire ; indeed, it accords so much with the ideas of the
Americans in general, that it is a practice which is almost
universally adopted in laying out their new towns, and
in improving their old ones. The Philadelphians are re-
marked by foreigners for being inhospitable and reserved.
This, on a first acquaintance with them, appears true ;
but it is a prejudice from first sight only, as their society
improves on a further acquaintance with them. Opinions
will be formed of the characters of men, according to the
diff"erent circles which travellers fall into during their
residence in a country ; and their descriptions will receive
a taint from those with whom they have most conversed.
This is an unjust mode of appreciating the merits of a
whole body of people ; and yet it is a difficult matter
to divest ourselves entirely of this association of ideas.
Besides, there is another point in which travellers fail
in giving a true and just delineation of the real
manners of a people amongst themselves. In every
country a stranger is entitled to hospitality and good
services. And it is in very few places, but the traveller
meets with respect and attention. This respect and
attention they even take a pride of showing you as

112 JOURNAL OF A TOUR,

strangers ; but when you come to live amongst them, and
your pretensions happen to clash with theirs, then " they
become as other men are ;" then those secret springs of
action, over which they had thrown a veil of seeming bene-
volence and hospitality, become open to our view, and
discover the common failings of human nature.

The Library, of which you have heard much said, is a
handsome brick building, and was founded by the great
American philosopher, Dr. Franklin, under the protection
of the state : his statue is over the door. In the inside
it is divided into two large apartments, which are well
stored with books of all descriptions, chiefly, or I may
say wholly, printed books. Here any citizen may take
away what book he pleases ; but if he be not a subscriber,
he leaves double the value of it till its return, and then
pays a small sum for the use of it. Strangers may go in
and read without any fee or reward.

The Museum I cannot say much of, it is yet in its
infancy ; it belongs to Mr. Feale, who is forming a col-
lection, which, at some future period, may be an honour
to the country. Here are several churches, most of
which are of the episcopalian denomination. The Quakers
are not so numerous as I expected to find them ; they do
not dress in that formal style which they do in the
old country, except the very rigid ones. The city is
under an excellent police, and is one of the cleanest
places I ever was in. The introduction of the yellow
fever has taught them this useful lesson. Here is a
market every day, but on Wednesdays and Saturdays
it is most frequented ; and immediately after the market
is over, scavengers are employed to sweep the streets and
take away all the filth, so that in five minutes after-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 113

wards you would not suppose there had been a market
held there for months. This city is the present^'' metro-
polis of the United States, and in fact is worthy of it :
it contains by computation about 70,000 inhabitants.
It is situated in a flat champaign country, between
the Schuylkill and the Delaware rivers, the former of
which is a pleasant stream running along the back of
the city, on the banks of which there are an innumerable
number of little country seats. It is thought by some
that this flat country tends to generate the yellow fever ;
it may tend to increase its effects when introduced, I
allow ; but it must have some other origin than this, or
how does it originate in the other seaport towns of Ame-
rica, whose situation is quite different ? Besides, there are
other places on the continent more likely to give rise to
it than this, and where the disease is never known ; but
these are back from the shore. The most probable opinion
is, that the disorder is imported.

There is a very excellent playhouse in this place, the
stage of which is as large as that of Covent-garden. When
first it was intended to be built (which was some ten years
since) there was great opposition to it, particularly by the
Quakers, who set their face against every thing of the kind ;
and when it was first opened, there were sad disturbances
and riots among the populace for several nights ; they
attacked and insulted almost every person who went in.
You will naturally ask the cause of this. It arose from
too puritanical a spirit among the people, "Congress
during the war solemnly declared that — I forget the pre-

* The seat of government is now removed to Washington. —
{Subsequent note of Author.)

114 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

cise words of the declaration, but it amounted to a
prohibition of all such pastimes during the war —
and a few unenlightened fanatics, thinking the rod was
not fullj removed, were afraid they should incur the
wrath of Heaven again by such imjnous practices ; and
they still believe that the yellow fever (owing to its hap-
pening about the same time) was a scourge for such a
heinous crime.

They have an assembly-room, and an amphitheatre,
which are both open during the proper season ; concerts,
likewise, are not unfrequent ; so that there are the same
amusements to be met with, and in an equal degree, to
what there are in the large towns in Great Britain.
The state of society too is much the same.

Prices of provisions, &c., are : — beef, TJd. per lb. ;
mutton, 3f d. per lb. ; pork, 5d. per lb. ; flour, 31s. per
cwt. ;* butter, Is. 6d. per. lb. ; butter in kegs, 9d. per
lb. ; cheese, 6d. per lb. ; English do., 2s. 2d. ; Virginia
coal. Is. lOd. per bushel ; Lisbon salt, 4s. 3d. per bushel ;
Irish mess beef, 72s. per barrel ; pilot bread, 50s. per
barrel; coffee, Is. 2d. per lb. ; superfine f flour, 63s. per
barrel; Indian meal, 22s. 6d. per barrel; wheat, 10s. 6d.t
per bushel ; rye, 5s. 4d. per bushel ; barley, 5s. 4d. per
bushel ; oats, 2s. 3d. per bushel ; Indian corn, 3s. lOd. per
bushel; rice, 31s. Gd.per cwt.; hemp, £20 per ton; Jamaica
rum, 8s. 2d. per gallon ; Windward Island do., 6s. 9d. per
gallon ; New England, 4s. 6d. per gallon; Muscovado sugar,
40s. per cwt. ; tar, 15s. per barrel; Madeira, 9s. per

* The cwt. in America is only 100 lbs.

f This was at a time when great quantities were shipped to
England, but it is now much lower.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 115

gallon ; Lisbon, 5s. per gallon ; Sherry, 5s. per gallon ; hay,
90s. per ton ; saltpetre, 6s. per lb. Boarding at Thompson's
tavern, 6s. per day, exclusive of wine.

I left Philadelphia with regret on the lAth March.
We passed through Bristol, which is about twenty miles
from Philadelphia, and seated on the banks of the Dela-
ware ; it is l)ut a small place, but very pleasantly situated,
as the towns in America are, which are on the borders of
the rivers.

From Bristol to Trenton, which is situated on the
opposite side of the river, higher up the stream, is ten
miles ; the road runs along the banks of the Delaware the
whole way, which forms a most enchanting ride ; the
banks on each side, rising gradually, and highly cultivated
(with every here and there a little island in the river),
add to the picturesque scenery of the whole. Trenton is
situated near the falls of the Delaware, and is about
thirty miles by land from Philadelphia. These do not
deserve the name of /alls, being nothing more than a
ledge of rocks reaching across the river, and obstructing
the navigation for large vessels. This is the extent of
the tide of the Delaware. The town stands on a rising
ground, and through the middle of it (or rather on one
side of it) runs a small stream, over which there is a
bridge, and which turns a grist-mill. It was here that
General Washington fell on the Hessians on the evening
of Christmas-day, 1 776.*

* He crossed the river, in a most tempestuous night, above the
falls, whilst two detachments crossed below ; and falling on the
Hessians, lulled into a belief of security, and heated by the fumes
of a Christmas evening, took them by surprise, and made near a
thousand of them prisoners, in spite of the gallant opposition of

I 2

116 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

From Trenton to New York our course lay through the
Jerseys, the seat of contention and bloodshed during the
long period of the late fratricidious war. Here was a
kind of predatory warfare carried on by the British for
some time, till the Americans put a stop to it by driving
them out, and confining them to New * York. The
country about here is more sandy than on the other side
of the Delaware ; nevertheless, there are some large tracts
of excellent laud. From Trenton to Princeton is twelve
miles. Here there is a handsome stone college, founded
in the year 1738. Its philosophical apparatus and
library were destroyed during the war by the British, who,
like Goths t and Yandals, spread destruction wherever
they went. It was this place that General Washington
attacked, when he escaped by so artful a manoeuvre from
Trenton : by causing fires to be made between the Eng-
lish and American army, which lay opposite to each
other on each side the brook, and leaving a number of
hats stuck upon poles, which at a distance appeared like

Colonel Rhalle. This turned the tide of American affairs, which
were then at their lowest ebb, and laid the fovmdation for that
success, by which a free people preserved their liberty, and gained
their independence.

* This state suffered, for its wealth and population, more than
any other in the union, owing to its being continually harassed by
both parties.

t The conduct of the Goths and Vandals is generally held
up as an example of the bad effects and unbounded devastation
of an unprincipled banditti ; but we shall find that in most coun-
tries, when a state has been overrun by an invading enemy, the
conquering soldiers (who are generally made up of the dregs of so-
ciety) have paid little attention to literary men or litei'ary property;
and in modern times we have too many instances of both falling
sacrifices to their unprincipled habits and inveterate fury.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 117

men's heads ; thereby preventing them from seeing the
main body of the army, and lulling them into a security
that the sentinels were on the outposts. On his route
he met Lieut.-Colonel Mawhood, who was about midway
between Princeton and Trenton, on his march to rein-
force Lord Cornwallis ; and his attack on this party was
the first notice the English had of his departure. In this
action General Mercer was killed, but Washington was
successful in taking possession of Princeton, and he
thereby overran the Jerseys.

From Princeton we came through Brunswick, Wood-
bridge, Elizabeth-town, and I^ewark. The former is
a handsome town situated on the banks of the Rariton,
which is navigable for large vessels close to the
town. The latter is a pleasant little village near,
though not on the banks of, the Pasaik. It is through
this place (which is about nine miles from New York)
that so much company passes to see the famous falls of
the Pasaik. I took a ride there some short time since
to see them. There is a little town situated near them,
called Patterson, and which is about seven or eight miles
from Newark, the road to which runs along the banks of
the Pasaik nearly the whole way, and forms one of the
most delightful rides I ever"^^ experienced. Words will
naturally fail to impress on the imagination a clear idea
of the scenery of a country or its several beauties ;
neither can a proper idea of them be formed, unless we can
present a "perfect whole" at once to the view. The

* A beautiful stream, — banks gradually rising on eacb side,
adorned with innumerable plantations and neat cottages; the distant
country covered with tall forests : in short, the whole presenting
at once to the eye a most enchanting scene.

118 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

pencil may supply what words are unable to express ; but
still that does not equal nature. I therefore doubt but
you must remain ignorant of that perfect contour (which
serves to render this short journey so highly delightful)
till you have an opportunity of seeing it in propria
persona.

The falls are about a quarter of a mile from the town,
and their noise may be heard about a mile off. They are
occasioned by a fissure in a rock, over which the river
formerly ran, as there is every appearance of the old bed.
On one side of this rock is a hollow, which leads into a
valley below. This fissure, which is shaped liked a wedge,
lets the water pass down between the rocks into the hollow
below, and from thence into the valley. It is evidently the
effect of some violent convulsion of nature. The river is
about as large as the Kennett, and in its passage over the
rocks, raises such a spray, that you are almost Avet through
if you stop long near it. This spray, too, which has the
ai)pearance of steam rising when the sun shines on it,
refracts the rays of light in such a manner, as to cause
the appearance of a rainbow, the same as is observed at
the falls of Niagara. The height is thirty-five feet; and,
what is very remarkable, we could much more plainly
hear each other speak when near the falls, and when
their noise seemed loudest, than when at a short * dis-
tance off.

At Patterson they have attempted to establish a manu-
factory, the machinery to carry on which was intended to
be turned by water ; and for that purpose large sums of
money have been expended in endeavouring to work

* The same, I am informed, is observed at Niagara. I believe
Jilso, that the experiment may be tried in any 7>iiU.

JOURi^AL OF A TOUR. 119

through the rock, in order to bring the water to act on
the wheels ; but at present it has not succeeded, and for
some time back the proceeding has been discontinued.

From Newark to New York is about nine miles, and
the greatest part of the road is over a large swamp, which
lies between and on each side of the Pasaik and Hack-
insac rivers. Over this swamp they have made a cause-
way, which trembles the whole way as you go over it,'"'
and shows how far the genius and industry of man will
triumph over natural impediments.

To New York, which is ninety-six miles from Philadel-
phia, w^e were a day and a half in coming. The roads
were not so bad as when we came from Baltimore. Our
fare was 6 dollars, and the charges on the road the same
as between Baltimore and Philadelphia :— viz., J dollar
breakfast, 1 dollar dinner, -J dollar supper, and ^ dollar
lodging.

Of New York, whence I now date, you will find a
tolerably accurate account in Morse. It is situated on
an island, the northern part of which is joined to the
continent by a bridge, called King's Bridge. There is
also a bridge at Haarlem, which is about the middle of
the island, on the east side. Without a map it will be
impossible to form any correct idea of the country ; but
with the help of that, you will be able to form a pretty
accurate idea of the relative situations of different places.
Opposite to the island on which New York stands, is
Long Island, and near it lies Governor's Island. To the
westward of Long Island lies Staten Island, where the
British first landed; and between Staten Island and New

* It consists of several layers of large logs laid longitudinally,
and parallel to eacli other, and covered at the top with earth.

120 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

York lie two other small islands, which contain a kind
of lazaretto.

On the point of land at the junction of the North and
East rivers was formerly a battery, now converted into a
public] walk, planted with a double row of trees along
the water side. This is the only public walk the I^ew
Yorkers can boast of ; of course, it is very much fre-
quented, particularly on a summer's evening ; it may
then be compared to Temple Gardens in the City. It
commands a fine view of the bay and the difierent islands
in it, as well as the Jersey shore on the opposite side,
and a great part of the North or Hudson's river. On
Governor's Island is a fort and a corps of artillery, which
is the only protection the city has against any hostile
naval force. In fact, it can never be well defended from
an attack by sea, as the narrowest part of the entrance to
the harbour (which is between Staten and Long Islands)
is two miles wide, which is called " the Narrows," through
which, with a fair wind and tide, a ship might sail in
defiance of any attempted obstructions from the shore,
as was proved by the British in the late war. Various
plans have been proposed to defend it from being passed
in case of a war, but none has proved efiectual. Not far
from New York is a place called Hellgate ; it is situated
near the entrance of the Sound, and forms part of the
communication between that place and the East river.
There is a remarkably strong current and whirlpool at
this place, which is caused by the tide running rapidly
over a bed of rocks which lie across the river, and some
of which project above the surface. It is very dangerous
navigation here, whilst the tide is ebbing or flowing, and
makes a most horrible noise, whence its name ; but at

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 121

high water and with a skilful pilot, large vessels may pass
over in safety.

With respect to the city of New York, it is an irregu-
larly built place, consisting principally of little narrow
streets, though some of those which are newly laid out
are broad and handsome, particularly Broadway, extend-
ing nearly a mile in length. It does not contain many
public buildings, except churches, which are very well
built, and with handsome steeples. The governor's
house, which is situated near the battery, is a large brick
building, with stone columns before the door, but has
neither taste nor elegance to set it off. The Federal
Hall is the most clumsy uncouth building I ever saw ; it
cannot lay claim to any pretensions for taste or style.
There are also a poorhouse, a workhouse, and two gaols,
which are neat, plain brick buildings, well adapted to the
purposes for which they are severally intended.

Columbia College, which is situated near the North
river, is a handsome though a plain building; it was
founded by charter, and is conducted by proper pro-
fessors in the different departments of the classics, as
well as the different branches of natural and experimental
philosophy.

The inhabitants of New York are very fond of music,
dancing, and plays ; an attainment to excellence in the
former has been considerably promoted by the frequent
musical societies and concerts which are held in the
city, many of the inhabitants being very good performers.
As to dancing, there are two assembly-rooms in the city,
which are pretty well frequented during the winter
season; private balls are likewise not uncommon. They
have two theatres, one of which is lately erected, and is

122 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

capable of containing a great number of persons ; there
is an excellent company of comedians, who perform here
in the winter. But the amusement of which they seem
most passionately fond is that of sleighing, which is
riding on the snow in what you call a sledge, drawn by
two horses. It is astonishing to see how anxiously per-
sons of all ages and both sexes look out for a good fall of
snow, that they may enjoy their favourite amusement ;
and when the happy time comes, to see how eager they
are to engage every sleigh that is to be hired. Parties
of twenty or thirty will sometimes go out of town in
these vehicles towards evening, about six or eight miles,
when, having sent for a fiddler, and danced till they are
tired, they will return home again by moonlight, or, per-
haps more often, by ^^^light. Whilst the snow is on the
ground no other carriages are made use of, either for plea-
sure or service^ The productions of the earth are brought
to market in sleighs ; merchandise is draughted about in
sleighs ; coaches are laid by, and the ladies and gentle-
men mount the silent car, and nothing is heard in the
streets but the tinkling* of bells.

There is a very good library in New York, established
by the legislature of the state, and divided into a certain
number of shares, which are transferable, and subject to
an annual demand for the purpose of defraying the
expenses of the societj'', and augmenting the number of
books. No person but the holder of a share can obtain
the loan of a book, though no one is ever denied access
to read in the library room.

* The sleighs not making any noise when in motion over the
snow, the horses are obliged by law to have little bells fiistened
around their necks, to warn foot-passengers of their approach.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 123

As to the state of society, you will find more English
men and English manners in this place than in any other
on the continent, yet divested of that reserve and haut
ton so prevalent in the old country. There is a society
of merchants who meet every Saturday at the Belvidere
— a house most pleasantly situated on a hill a little way
out of the city, and commanding a fine view of the ad-
jacent country. Here most strangers are invited ; and
here it is that an unreserved conversation takes place
between men from whom (their situations in life being
nearly similar, and their several pretensions and interests
happening to clash) one would not expect such ingenuous-
ness of disposition, but which is characteristic of an in-
dependent mind. The intercourse between private fami-
lies, and the access to what you call the higher circles,
but which in this country are not known as such, are less
incumbered with that form and ceremony so much
observed with you.

On Long Island, over which is scattered a number
of small villages, are many delightfully pleasant rides,
which are much frequented in the summer season by
different parties from New York, who go over to hunt,
shoot, and fish ; and some, merely to enjoy the scenery
of the country, and a clear and pure atmosphere.

New York is advantageously situated for commerce : —
not thirty miles from the ocean ; — a safe and commodi-
ous harbour ; — commanding extensive communications
into the interior of the country by the mean of the
Sound, and the rivers which run into it as well as by
the North river, which is navigable for sloops above
Albany : — it bids fair to outstrip all her sister states in the
advancement of her commercial interests.

124 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

From New York to Rhode Island there is a regular
communication kept up by means of packets, on the same
principle with those between Norfolk and Baltimore ;
and which navigate up and down the Sound, the same as
those do up and down the Chesapeak ; the distance too
is nearly the same.

I went in one of them some short time since to Pro-
vidence, in Rhode Island ; our passage was through Hell-
gate, which at the time we passed it (being high water)
was quite smooth and placid. It was a fine day when
we started, and the appearances of the trees, just budding
out, the harbinger of spring, from the neighbouring
shores, added to the many little villages with the tall white
spire rising from the midst, produced a scene.*

I set off on the \st of September, 1796, to make a
tour of the western country, — that land of Paradise, ac-
cording to the flattering accounts given by Imlay and
others. Wishing to go to the new city of Washington,
lue^ took our route through Philadelphia and Baltimore,
which I have already described. I shall not trouble you
with any further remarks, excepting that as the season
was just the reverse of what it was when I passed through
this country last, it presented quite a different appearance
from what I described to you in my former letters. Besides,
there was none of that inconvenience from bad roads, so

* Here should follow an account of my journey to Boston up the
Sound, and back again tlirough the New England States : a most
beautiful jaunt. But the journal which I made at the time is
mislaid.

t T was in company with a gentleman of the name of Heighway,
who was going down to the north-western settlement to form a
plantation.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 125

terrible to a traveller in the winter. On the contrary, we
went on with a rapidity and safety equal to any mode of
travelling in England.

From Baltimore to the new city of Washington is forty-
five miles, where we arrived on the 5th of October follow-
ing. The road is well furnished with taverns, which in
general are good, at least as good as can be expected in
this part of the world. Close to Washington is a hand-
some town called Georgetown ; in fact, it will form part
of the new city ; for, being so near the site intended for
it, and being laid out nearly on the same plan, its streets
will be only a prolongation of the streets laid out for the
city of Washington : so that it will in course of time
lose its name of Georgetown, and adopt the general one
of Washington, Much in the same manner the small
places formerly separated from the metropolis of England
have lost their name, and fallen under the general deno-
mination of London.

Georgetown is situated on a hill close to the river
Potomak ; it presents a beautiful view from the surround-
ing country, of which also it commands a fine prospect. It
is a seaport town, and some of their vessels are employed
in the London trade. There are stages run daily between
this place and Baltimore, for which you pay four dollars.
There are also stages to and from Alexandria, a hand-
some and fiourishing town situated on the Potomak, lower
down the stream, and about eight miles ofi"; for which
you pay a fare of three quarters of a dollar. We put up
at the Federal Arms whilst we were there. It is a good
inn, but their charges are most extravagantly high.

The Potomak at this place may be about as wide as
the Thames at London Bridge. The navigation of the

126 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

river is safe ; and it is deep enough for merchantmen
above Georgetown.

I presume you know upon what principle the new"^'' city
is laid out : the President's House and the Capitol are
situated upon two eminences ; and other different rising
grounds in the site are fixed on, with an intention of
erecting obelisks, statues, &c., to eminent men. These
eminences communicate with each other by means of streets
proceeding from one to the other, like radii from a centre ;
and from the Capitol a true meridian line is drawn, which
terminates at the point of land made by the junction of
the two rivers ; and by this line a street from the
Capitol to the Point is laid out, and intended to be called
South Capitol Street. This is the groundwork of the
plan; and bj^ this method those natural risings will be made
subservient to the elegance and beauty of the city ; and
that general mode of laying out a town by means of streets
crossing each other at right angles and at certain distances,
without any regard to the position of the ground, will be
avoided. Our first walk was to the President's House, which
is a building of stone about the size of Whitehall. It is
nearly completed ; and when fitted up will be a handsome
edifice. It commands a fine view of the harbour, and also

* In February, 1798, there remained unsold of the lots in the
city of Washington — 1,709 building lots in choice squares ; 3,890
feet front on navigable rivei-s ; 3,428 building lots in other parts.
The first were valued at 358 dollars per lot, equal to 611,822

The second at 15J ... per foot ... G0,295

The third at 152 ... per lot ... 521,056

1,193,173
Amount already sold ... 2 7 8, 1 9 0

Total ... 1,471,363

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 127

of the Capitol, to which there is a broad street intended to
be built. The Capitol stands upon the highest ground in
the city, and commands a still better view of the harbour,
as the prospect extends a considerable way down the
river. The Capitol, which is also of stone, was in a great
state of forwardness ; and it was expected to be finished
before the time appointed for the removal of Congress,
January, 1800. It is impossible to say what kind of an
appearance it will make when it is finished ; but, if I may
judge from what was already done, I think I may pro-
nounce it to be a building worthy the taste and enter-
prise of a free and flourishing people. From the Capitol we
walked down to the Point, where there is a place marked
out for a battery. The view from here is extremely
delightful : — On each side, a fine river, flowing with a
gentle current along the base of a hilly and romantic
country. In front, these two rivers form a junction ex-
tending as far as the eye can reach, and the prospect is ter-
minated only by the distant country. The banks on each
side are covered with innumerable plantations, with the
distant view of Alexandria and its towering steeples, about
six miles below, projecting apparently into the middle
of the river. In the rear is the still nearer view of
Georgetown, and of the President's House and the Capitol.
All tend to render it one of the most delightful and
pleasant sites for a town I have ever remarked in the
whole of the United States. The private buildings go
on but slowly. There are about twenty or thirty houses
built near the Point, as well as a few in South Capitol
Street, and about a hundred others scattered over in
other places : in all I suppose about two hundred : and
these constitute the great city of Washington. The truth

128 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

is, that not much more than one-half the city is cleared :
— the rest is in woods ; and most of the streets which
are laid out are cut through these woods, and have a
much more pleasing effect now than I think they will
have when they shall be built ; for now they appear like
broad avenues in a park, bounded on each side by thick
woods ; and there being so many of them, and proceeding
in so many various directions, they have a certain wild, yet
uniform and regular appearance, which they will lose
when confined on each side by brick walls.

The canal and the gardens, as well as the bridges, which
you see marked down in the plan, are not yet begun ; they
are still in the same state of nature that they were before
the city was marked out. In fact, were it not for the
President's House and the Capitol, you would be ignorant
that you were near the spot intended for the metropolis
of the United States.

Game is plenty in these parts, and, what perhaps may
appear to you remarkable, I saw some boys who were out
a shooting, actually kill several brace of partridges in
what will be one of the most public streets of the city.
I mention this, to give you an idea of the present state of
the city; and I could not help reflecting at the time,
what a different appearance it presents now to what there
is every probability it will in the course of a few years :
when, instead of being (as it is now) uncleared and un-
cultivated, it will resound with the busy hum of men,
and become the emporium of whatever shall be worthy
the observation of man .

Building lots in this city sell from six to twenty-five
cents (a cent is a halfpenny) per square foot, according
to their situations, &c. The Federal Arms, where we

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 129

put up, is the best, though the dearest, tavern in George-
town. It cost us, whilst we were there, for dinner, supper,
breakfast, luncheon, and horses, four dollars each. Our
horse not being trained to the chaise, we were obliged to
sell it, which we did for forty dollars ; and, at about
half-past one, October 1th, we started on our journey over
the Allegany mountains to Pittsburgh. About four-
teen miles on the road is a pretty little town called
Montgomery Court House ; it contains some good houses,
but the streets are narrow. About seven miles further
is a little settlement, formed a few years back by Captain
Lingham, called Middlebrook. Captain Lingham has a
house on the road, near a mill, which he has erected ;
and here (following the example of many of his brother
officers) he has retired from the toils and bustle of war,
to spend his days in the enjoyments of a country life.
We arrived here about six o'clock ; the sun was just
setting, yet there was time to go another stage ; but, as
we were got into a part of the country where taverns^
were not very frequent, we proposed stopping here this
night. Accordingly, putting our horses up at a little
tavern, (which, together with four or five more houses,
composed the whole of the settlement,) we had a com-
fortable supper and went to bed. About half-past six
the next morning we started from this place, and stopped,
about seven miles on the road, at an old woman's of the
name of Roberts. This old woman (whose house, I be-
lieve, was the only one we saw on the road) acts at times
in the capacity of a tavern-keeper : that is, a person tra-
velling that way, and straitened for provisions, would
most probably find something there for himself and his

* All the inns and public-houses on the road are called taverns.

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130 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

horse. The old lady was but just up when we called ;
her house had more the appearance of a hut than the
habitation of an hostess, and when we entered there was
scarcely room to turn round. We were loath to stop
here ; but there not being any other house near, we were
obliged to do it, both for the sake of ourselves and our
horses. We soon made her acquainted with our wants,
and she, gathering together a few sticks, (for her fire was
not yet lighted,) and getting a little meal and some water,
mixed us up some cakes, which were soon dressed at the
fire, and then all sitting down at the table, and having
mixed some tea in a little pot, we enjoyed a very com-
fortable breakfast. The poor old woman, who was a
widow, seemed to live in a deal of distress : the whole
of her living was acquired by furnishing accommodation
to travellers. When we were sitting over the fire, and
partaking of our meal-cakes with this old woman, it
brought to mind the story of Elijah and the widow,
(1 Kings, chap, xvii.,) particularly where she answers
him with, " As the Lord thy God liveth, I have not a
cake, but an handful of meal in a barrel, and a little oil
in a cruse : and, behold, I am gathering two sticks, that
I may go in and dress it for me and my son, that we
may eat it, and die," The appositeness of our situations
rendered this passage very striking, and made me look
upon my hostess in a more favourable point of view than
when I first saw her. I gave her something to render
her situation more comfortable and happy.

Leaving this lonely habitation, we continued on our
journey, and crossing the Sinecocy river, about eleven
miles on the road, we reached Fredericktown, about four
miles farther, at twelve o'clock. This is a large and

JOURNAL OF A TOUR, 131

flourishing place, contains a number of good houses, and
is a place of great trade, owing to its being the thorough
fare to the western country of Pennsylvania and the
Ohio. There is a large manufactory of rifle-guns car-
ried on here ; but so great is the demand for them, that
we could not meet with one in the whole place : they sell
in general from 15 to 25 dollars each, according to their
style of being mounted. The tavern where we stopped
was kept by Mrs. Kemble : it is a tolerably good house.
After dinner we left this place, and after going about
three or four miles, we arrived at the foot of the Appa-
lachian Mountains. And here let me stop a little to
make a few observations on the face of the country we
have just passed over. From Georgetown to this place,
it almost wholly consists of a sandy, gravelly soil, with
difficulty repaying the husbandman for the trouble of
tilling it. The face of the country is very uneven, being
a constant succession of hill and dale. Little towns or
villages are scattered over the country at the distance
of seven or eight miles, which communicate with each
other by roads which are almost inaccessible during the
winter and spring months. Our charges on this part of
the road were half a dollar each for breakfast and dinner
and supper, without any distinction of fare. If our table
were spread with all the profusion of American luxury,
such as ham, cold beef, fried chicken, &c. &c., (which
are not uncommon for breakfast in this part of the
world), or whether we sat down to a dish of tea and hoe-
cake, our charge was all the same. The accommodations
we met with on the road were pretty well, considering
the short time this country has been settled, and the
character and disposition of its inhabitants, which are

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132 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

not those of the most polished nations, but a character
and disposition arising from a consciousness of inde-
pendence, accompanied by a spirit and manner highly
characteristic of this consciousness. It is not education
alone that forms this character of the Americans: it
stands upon a firmer basis than this. The means of
subsistence being so easy in the country, and their de-
pendence on each other consequently so trifling, that
spirit of servility to those above them so prevalent in
European manners, is wholly unknown to them; and
they pass their lives without any regard to the smiles or
the frowns of men in power.

Nearly the whole of the way from Georgetown to Fre-
dericktown we preserved a distant view of the Allegany
Mountains, at whose feet we were now arrived. They
presented to us one general bluff appearance, extending
as far as our eye could see from the north-east to the south-
west. Our approach to them was in a line perpendicular
to that of their extension, so that they seemed to bid
defiance to our progress. The A llegany Mountains is a
name given to a range of several ridges of mountains
stretching from Vermont to Carolina, of which one ridge
alone is properly the Allegany Mountain. These ridges
are nearly 170 miles in width; and the middle one, or
the Allegany, forms the backbone of the rest. The ridge
which first presented itself to our view, is called in
Howell's Map the South Mountain. The road (which
here began to be very rocky and stony) is carried over
the least elevated part of the mountain, and from its
summit we beheld that beautiful limestone valley so
recommended by Brissot. On our descent from this
mountain, we entered on one of the finest tracts of land

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 133

in all America. This celebrated vallej, which lies be-
tween this and the next ridge of mountains, extends
from the Susquehannah on the north to Winchester on
the south, is richly watered by several navigable streams,
and is capable of producing every article which is raised
in the neighbouring countries in the greatest abundance.
It is inhabited chiefly by Germans and Dutch, who are
an industrious race of men and excellent farmers. Their
exertions have made this valley (bounded on each side
by barren and inhospitable mountains) assume the ap-
pearance of a highly cultivated country, abounding in all
the conveniences and some of the luxuries of life. Be-
sides a general appearance of comfortable farms scattered
over the face of the country, it can boast of several large
and populous towns, which keep up a connexion with
the cities on the Atlantic, and supply the interior of this
mountainous country with the produce of distant nations.
It was dark before we descended from this mountain; but
we had not proceeded far in the valley when we came
to a little place called Boom's-town, where we were
glad to rest ourselves and horses after the fatigues of so
rough a road. Boom's-town is eight miles from Fre-
dericktown : it has not been settled above three or
four years. We met with a very good tavern and excel-
lent accommodations.

From Boom's-town, the next morning (Sunday, Oc-
tober 9th, 1796) we passed through Funk's-town, which
is another new-settled place ; and immediately on leaving
this, Hagar's-town presented itself to our view, about
two miles off: here we arrived to breakfast. Hagar's-
town* is a large flourishing place, and contains some

* Hacar's-town is ten miles from Boom's-town.

134 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

good houses. The streets are narrow, and, agreeably to
a barbarous custom wliich they have in laying out new
towns in America, the court-house is built in the middle
of the principal street, which is a great obstruction to
the passage, as well as being of an uncouth appearance.
This place is situated on a fine plain, and, like Frederick's-
town, is a place of great trade, and also a manufactory
for rifle-guns, of which we bought two at twenty dollars
each. Here is a paper published weekly ; and assemblies
are held here during the winter. There is also a great
deal of horse-racing in the neighbourhood at stated sea-
sons. We put up at the Indian Queen, kept by Ragan :
it is a good house and much frequented.

From Hagar's-town we proceeded on to Greencastle,
which is a poor little place, but lately settled, and con-
sisting of a few log-houses built along the road. We
stopped at one of these houses, which they called the
tavern, kept by one Lawrence ; it was a poor miserable
place. We were obliged to unsaddle our horses, put them
into the stable, and feed them ourselves ; and then,
having got something to eat and refreshed ourselves, we
got out of this place as soon as we could. Greencastle is
eleven miles from Hagar's-town ; and we had to go
eleven miles farther that evening to Mr Lindsay's, whom
we had engaged at Baltimore to carry some goods to
Pittsburgh in his waggons. His house lay at some dis-
tance from the road we were going, so that we struck
across the woods to approach it ; and, after having missed
our way once or twice, we struck on a road which took us
down to his house. Here we were hospitably enter-
tained for two days by Mr. Lindsay and his father-in-
law, Mr. Andrews, who have a very excellent farm, and

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 135

live very comfortably in the truly American style. The
place at which he resides is called the Falling Springs ;
for what reason they are called falling springs I cannot
conceive; they rise from under an old tree, and the
stream does not proceed three hundred yards before it
turns a cyder-mill ; and a little farther on turns a grist-
mill. These mills belong to Mr. Andrews, as also does a
large quantity of the land around ; for in this country
all the farmers are landholders. Mr. and Mrs. Andrews
are Irish ; and they and their family are all settled
in the neighbourhood. Their children are all brought up
in industry, and have their time fully employed in per-
forming the different necessary duties of the house and
farm. ^Nevertheless, they appear to live very happy and
comfortable.

Tuesday, October Wth, 1796. — About eleven o'clock
this morning we set off from Mr. Andrews's, in company with
a party of several of the neighbouring farmers who were
going to Chambersburgh to vote at an election. Chambers-
burgh is about three miles from Mr. Andrews's, and is
a large and flourishing place, not inferior to Frederick's-
town or Hagar's-town ; being, like them, on the high road
to the western country, it enjoys all the advantages which
arise from such a continual body of people as are per-
petually emigrating thither. I have seen ten and twenty
waggons at a time in one of these towns, on their way to
Pittsburgh and other parts of the Ohio, from thence to
descend down that river to Kentucky, These waggons
are loaded with the clothes and necessaries of a number of
poor emigrants, who follow on foot with their wives and
families, who are sometimes indulged with a ride when
they are tired, or in bad weather. In this manner they

136 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

will travel and take up their abode in the woods on the
side of the road, like the gypsies in our country, taking
their provisions with them, which they dress on the road's
side, as occasion requires.

About thirteen miles from Chambersburgh, which we
left in the afternoon, is a place called the Mill^ which
is kept by some Dutchmen. We understood it was a
tavern, but were disappointed ; however, as it was now
dark, and no tavern on the road for some distance, we
were under the necessity of begging a lodging here, which
was granted us at last with the greatest reluctance. Here
we had rather an unfavourable specimen of Dutch man-
ners. We were hindly directed to take our horses to the
stables, and take care of them ourselves, which we ac-
cordingly did ; and, returning to the house, I was witness
to a kind of meal I had never before experienced. First of
all, some sour milk was warmed up and placed on the
table. This at any other time would probably have
made us sick ; but having fasted nearly the whole day, and
seeing no appearance of anything else likely to succeed
it, we devoured it very soon ; particularly as the whole
family (of which there were seven or eight) partook of
it likewise ; all of us sitting round one large bowl, and
dipping our spoons in one after another. When this was
finished a dish of stewed pork was served up, accom-
panied with some hot pickled cabbage, called in this part
of the country " warm slaw." This was devoured in the
same hoggish manner, every one trying to help himself
first, and two or three eating off the same plate, and all
in the midst of filth and dirt. After this was removed, a
large bowl of cold milk and bread was put on the table,
which we partook of in the same nmnner as the first

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 137

dish, and in the same disorder. The spoons were imme-
diately taken out of the greasy pork dish, and (having
been just cleaned by passing through the mouth) were
put into the milk ; and that, with all the sang froid ne-
cessarily attending such habitual nastiness. Our table,
which was none of the cleanest (for as to cloth, they had
none in the house), was placed in the middle of the room,
which appeared to me to be the receptacle of all the filth
and rubbish of the house ; and a fine large fire, which
blazed at one end, served us instead of a candle.

Wishing to go to bed as soon as possible (though, by
the by, we did not expect that our accommodations would
be any of the most agreeable), we requested to be shown
to our room, when, lo ! we were ushered up a ladder, into
a dirty place, where a little hole in the wall served for a
window, and where there were four or five beds as dirty as
need be. These beds did not consist (as most beds do) of
blankets, sheets, &c., but were truly in the Dutch style,
being literally nothing more than one feather bed placed
on another, between which we were to creep and lie
down. The man, after showing us this our place of des-
tination, took the candle away, and left us to get in how
we could, which we found some difficulty in doing at
first ; however, after having accomplished it, we slept
very soundly till morning, when we found we had passed
the night amongst the whole family, men, women, and
children, who had occupied the other beds, and who had
come up after we had been asleep. We got up early in
the morning from this inhospitable and filthy place, and,
saddling our horses, pursued our journey.

October 12th, 1796. — At ten o'clock we arrived at
Mc Conneirs-town, in Cove Valley (thirteen miles), hav-

138 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

ing first passed over a high ridge called, in Howell's Map,
the North Mountain ; and here we left that beautiful
valley, which is enriched by so many streams, and abounds
with such a profusion of the conveniences of life ; a
country than which, if we except Kentucky, is not to
be found a more fertile one in the whole of the United
States.

On our descent from the North Mountain we caught,
through every opening of the woods, the distant view of
Mc Connell's, whose white houses, contrasted with the
sea of woods by which it was surrounded, appeared like
an island in the ocean. Our near approach to it, how-
ever, rendered it not quite so pleasing an object ; for it
consisted but of a few log-houses, built after the American
manner, without any other ornament than that of being
whitened on the outside. There was a pretty good
tavern kept here by a Dutchwoman, where we stopped to
breakfast ; and, leaving this place, we crossed a hill
called Scrubheath, at the end of which was Whyle's
tavern (ten miles) : we did not stop, but went to the top
of Sideling Hill (two miles), where there is a tavern kept
by Skinner, where we dined. Sideling Hill is so called
from the road being carried over this ridge, 07i the side of
the hill, the whole way ; it is very steep in ascent, and
towards the top appears very tremendous on looking
down.

From this tavern to the Junietta, a branch of the Sus-
quehannah river, is eight miles. The hill terminates at the
river, and the road down to it is a narrow winding path,
apparently cleft out of the mountain. It so happened that
when we came to this defile, a travelling man with a num-
ber of packhorses had just entered it before us ; and as it

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 139

was impossible to pass them, we were obliged to follow
them down this long winding passage to the river, at theij
own pace, which, poor animals, was none of the speediest.
The sun, though not set, had been long hid from us by
the neighbouring mountains, and would not lend us one
ray to light us on our melancholy path. We fell into
conversation with our fellow-traveller, and found that he
had been to Philadelphia, where he had purchased a
number of articles necessary to those who live in this
part of the country, and which he was going to dispose of
in the best manner possible. The gloominess of our path,
and the temper of mind I happened to be then in, threw
me into reflections on a comparison of this man's state
with my own. At length a distant light broke me from my
reverie, and indicated to us a near prospect of our enlarge-
ment from this obscure path ; and the first thing that pre-
sented itself to our view was the Junietta river, which,
fljOwing with a gentle stream between two very steep
hills, covered with trees to the very top, the sun
just shining, and enlightening the opposite side, though
hid to us, presented one of the most enchanting and
romantic scenes I ever experienced. From this place to
Hartley's tavern is eight miles, and this we had to go before
night. It was sunset before we had reached the summit
of the opposite hill of the river. From this hill we
beheld ourselves in the midst of a mountainous and
woody country ; the Junietta winding and flowing on
each side of us at the foot of the hill ; the distant
mountains appearing in all the wildness of majesty, and
extending below the horizon. The moon had just begun
to spread her silver light ; and by her assistance we were
enabled to reach our destined port. The road, which

140 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

was carried along the side of a tremendously high hill,
seemed to threaten us with instant death, if our horses
should make a false step. Embosomed in woods, on a
lonely path, we travelled by the ;kind light of the moon
till near eight o'clock, when we reached our place of
destination. It was a very comfortable house, kept by
one Hartley, an Englishman, and situated in a gap of the
mountains, called in this part of the country Warrior's
Gap, and which affords an outlet or passage for the
Junietta river, which here is a fine gentle stream. The
country just about here was very mountainous ; yet our
landlord had got a very pleasant spot cleared and culti-
vated, and which furnished him with the principal neces-
saries of life. Finding this an agreeable place, we
stopped here three days, and went up into the mountains
to shoot ; but, being very young hands at this diversion,
we were always unsuccessful.

On Saturday/, October 15th, we set off from Hartley's
about eleven o'clock, and proceeded to Redford (six
miles), which is a pleasant place, and agreeably situated,
and contains a great many houses. The town is supplied
with water from the neighbouring hills, conveyed in pipes
to each house, and to a public place in the middle of the
town. We left this place about half-past twelve, and
proceeded to Ryan's tavern, at the foot of the Allegany
mountain (eleven miles). Here we dined ; and after
dinner, we proceeded up the mountain, the top of which !
we reached about five o'clock; and here I was surprised
to find a number of little streams of water flowing
through some as fine land as is to be met with in the
United States, and abounding with fish. This appearance
upon the top of so high a mountain is not a little remark-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 141

able ; but I have since found it to be the case in other
ridges of mountains which I have passed over. We in-
tended to have gone on to Webster's this evening, but
the weather proving so bad, we called at a little house on
the road, in order to stop during the night. But we were
informed that they could not accommodate us ; however,
they directed us to a person about a mile off, where
they thought we could get accommodated ; accordingly,
striking across the woods, we proceeded to this house,
and, after some little trouble, and in a very tempes-
tuous night, we found it out, and here took up our abode
for the night. Our landlord's name was Statler, and his
residence is about eight miles from Ryan's. Here we
found a very comfortable habitation, and very good accom-
modation ; and though situated at the top of the highest
ridge of mountains, we experienced not only the comforts,
but also some of the luxuries of life. From the stone
which forms the base of this mountain they make mill-
stones, which are sent to all parts of the country, and sell
from fifteen to twenty and thirty dollars a pair. Land
sells on these mountains for two dollars an acre. We
found this so comfortable a place, that we stopped here to
breakfast the next morning {October 16th), and then we
proceeded to Webster's, at a place called Stoystown (nine
miles), where there is a good tavern, and where we
stopped to bait our horses. About a mile before we
came to Webster's we passed over Stoney Creek, which
has a great many different branches, and rather large, but
most of them were dry, owing partly to the season, and
partly to their lying so very high. About nine miles
further we stopped at Murphy's, where we baited our
horses ; but the habitation was so uncomfortable, and

142' JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

their accommodations so miserable, that we could get
nothing for ourselves ; we were therefore obliged to defer
till the evening taking any refreshment. On leaving
this place we crossed Laurel Hill^ which is near nine
miles long, and which is the highest ridge of the
Apalachian mountains : it is rather a ridge upon a
ridge, than a mountain by itself, as it rises upon the
Allegany ridge. The perpendicular height of this ridge
is 4,200 feet ; and in crossing it we were not a little in-
commoded by the cold winds and rain which generally
infest the summit. This, together with the badness of the
roads (being nothing but large loose stones), made it one
of the most unpleasant rides I ever experienced. It was
near dark before we descended this mountain ; and we had
then to go three miles to a poor miserable hut, where we
were obliged to spend the night amidst the whole family
and some other travellers, all scattered about in the same
room.

About half-past six the next morning [October 17 th,
1796) we set out from King's, and crossing Chestnut ridge,
we arrived at Letty Bean's to breakfast (seven and a half
miles). After crossing Chestnut ridge we took our leave
of the Apalachian mountains, having passed 170 miles
over them, from the Blue ridge to Chestnut ridge. These
mountains are for the most part very stony and rocky, yet
have a great quantity of fine land on them, even on their
very summits. The roads which are carried over them are
much better than I expected ; and if from the tops of them
you can (through an opening of the trees) gain a view of
the surrounding country, it appears like a sea of woods ;
and all those hills which appeared very high in our
passing over them, are lost in one wide plane, extending

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. . 143

as far as the eyo can reach, at least fifty or sixty miles,
presenting a view not only novel, but also highly majestic.
At other times, when you get between the declivities of
the mountains, they appear in all the wildness of nature,
forming the most romantic scenery the imagination can
picture. It is not to be supposed, that immediately on
leaving the Apalachian mountains the country subsides
into a smooth level ; on the contrary, for several miles,
both on the eastern and western side, the country is very
hilly, not to say sometimes mountainous ; and it is said
that the western side of the mountains is 300 feet above
the level of the eastern side.

From the foot of the mountains to Pittsburgh is about
forty miles, and here we arrived to dinner on the I8fh
October, having gone, during our route, about 297 miles
from Philadelphia. The accommodations we met with
were, upon the whole, tolerably good ; at least, such as a
person (considering the country he was travelling in)
might bear with : charges rather high. It cost us, to-
gether with our horses, two dollars a day each. The
common charges on the eastern side of the mountains
were : — For breakfast, dinner, and supper, J dollar
each ; oats, 12 cents, per gallon. On the western side,
dinner and supper were charged sometimes 2s., some-
times 2s. 6d., and breakfasts, 18d., (Pennsylvania cur-
rency). For breakfast we generally used to have coffee,
and buck-wheat cakes, and some fried venison or broiled
chicken, meat being inseparable from an American
breakfast ; and whatever travellers happened to stop at
the same place, sat down at the same table, and partook
of the same dishes, whether they were poor, or whether
they were rich ; no distinction of persons being made in
this part of the country.

144 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

Pittsbiirgli is pleasantly situated at the junction of the
Monongahela and Allegany rivers ; the union of which
two forms the beautiful river Ohio. The southern bank of
the Monongahela is near 300 feet high, and almost perpen-
dicular ; the top of which subsides into a level country.
The town, which is situated in north latitude 40° 25' 50",
is built on a beautiful plain at the point of the two rivers,
which plain extends a considerable way along the banks
of both, and at a small distance from them is terminated
by the high country. This appearance is very common
in the western parts of America, and arises from the
general surface of the ground being so much higher than
the beds of the rivers. Innumerable excavations are
formed by every little running stream, which disfigure
the face of the country very much.

The town, which contains about four hundred houses, is
laid out nearly on Penn's plan, though the streets do not
cross each other at right angles ; but those which are near
the river are so formed as to run parallel to it. v. It was
first settled about 1760, and is famous for being the
subject of dispute between France and England in 1756,
and in part hastened the rupture between the two coun-
tries. Louisiana and Canada being then in the hands of
the French, they wished to unite these two countries by
a chain of forts, and with that view they surprised and
took a fortified post which the Virginians had established
on the forks of these rivers : here they erected a fort,
which was called Fort Du Quesne. To reduce this, and
expel the French from this part of America, was the
object of General Braddock, whose defeat is well known
to every one conversant with the history of this period.
Washington had been sent to attack this post some
months prior to this, 1)ut his attempts were unsuccessful.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 145

On the approach, however, of General Forbes, in 1758,
the French retreated down the Ohio to their settlements
on the Mississippi, and left him in possession of the
place, the name of which he changed to Fort Pitt, in
honour of the Premier. The English demolished the block
fort which the French had erected, and raised a regular
fortification at the point of the town, consisting of five
bastions, with a ravelin facing the Ohio, all of which
is now in ruins ; for, though a fort here was absolutely
necessary at the first settling of the country, and is still
kept up, yet it is nothing more than a hloch fort. These
hloch forts are laid out upon the same principles as other
forts, but instead of having either a glacis, covered way,
ditch, rampart, or parapet, they consist of nothing more
than very thick planks of wood, fourteen or fifteen feet
high, set upright in the ground, with holes bored in them
at certain distances, through which the garrison present
their muskets ; and they are much better calculated for
a defence against Lidians, than the European method of
constructing them, as well as being less expensive.

From the period we have been mentioning to the close
of the American war, the inhabitants of this country had
to settle their plantations and reap the produce of them
amidst continual attacks of the Indians, who never ceased,
night or day, to harass and distress them. Every farm-
house was then a fortification, and was so built, that it
might be defended against the Indians, let them attack
on which side soever they chose. The upper part of the
house projected considerably beyond the lower, and holes
were bored in the floor, through which they might fire
down upon the enemy, if they should approach to set fire
to the house. These liouses are called block-houses, and

L

146 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

are still to be seen in many parts of the country, a
monument of usurpation on the one hand, and of preda-
tory warfare on the other. A person in travelling this
country will often hear the sad story of sons and
daughters being shot within a few yards of the house,
whilst following the plough or tending the cattle, by
Indians, who perhaps had been lying in wait for weeks
for an opportunity of destroying the encroachers on their
property. Truly may this country be said to have been
established in blood, as there are very few of the first
settlers but have felt the effects of Indian revenge in
the loss of some part of their family. But to return to
Pittsburgh.

Soon after the close of the American war, when the
United States found itself at peace with all the Indian
tribes, this town, from its peculiar situation, being the
depot for every thing passing down the Ohio, (the navi-
gation of which had been considerably increased since the
infant state of Kentucky had been settled,) began to rise
considerably in importance ; and at present may challenge
any of the western counties of Pennsylvania for its size
and commerce. Through this town is the great channel
of emigration to those countries lying on each side of the
Ohio, between the "Wabash and Tenessee rivers : and here,
after coming in shoals across the Allegany mountains,
either in waggons or afoot, they stop to supply them-
selves with boats to carry them down the river. These
boats, which may be more properly termed rafts, are
built without one particle of iron in their composition ;
they are generally from 30 to 40 feet long, and about
12 feet broad, and consist of a framework fastened
together with wooden pins, Avhich constitutes the bottom

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 147

of the boat, and to this is fastened a flooring, which is
well calked to prevent leaking ; the sides are about
breast high, and made of thin plank ; and sometimes
there is a rude kind of covering, intended to keep the
rain out. These boats draw very little water, not enough
to sink the framework'^^' at the bottom under the water,
and are generally furnished with a pair of oars, not so
much to expedite their progress, as to keep them from
the shore when they are driven towards it by the cur-
rent ; and there is a pole projecting from the stern, to
steer them with. When they are going down the stream,
it is immaterial which part goes foremost ; and their
whole appearance is not much unlike a large box floating
down with the current. The article of boat-building
forms one of the chief employments of this town. The
common charge for boats of this kind is a dollar, and
sometimes 1^ dollars, for 12 square feet, that is, as
to her bottom : thus a boat 40 feet long and 12 feet
wide would cost 40 dollars, at 1 dollar per 12 feet.
Ironmongery forms another considerable article of com-
merce in this town, but it is chiefly of the coarser sort,
such as is used for mills, ploughs, and the various articles
of husbandry. There is a great quantity of iron near
this place, which is brought down the Monongahela river;
and as to coal, it abounds very much all over the western
country, and lies so near the surface of the ground, that
the waggon wheels often cut into it on the roads : ) it is of
an excellent quality, and extends for some hundred miles
over the country. The inhabitants lay it in at about
3-|^d. sterling per bushel.

* The boat we had was 12 feet broad, 36 feet long, and drew 18
inches of water when she had upwards of 10 tons of goods in her.

L 2

148 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

The waggons whicli come over the Allegany mountains
from the Atlantic states, (bringing dry goods and foreign
manufactures for the use of the back-country men,) return
from this place generally empty ; though sometimes they
are laden with deer and bear skins and beaver furs,
which are brought in by the hunters, and sometimes by
the Indians, and exchanged at the stores for such articles
as they may stand in need of.

At the tavern where I put up, there was a young
Indian who was on his return to his own tribe ; he came
in with the army of the United States at the close of last
war with the Indians, when they were defeated by General
Wayne, in which action his father and uncle bore a
conspicuous part, and in which they were the leading
men. I remembered seeing him about a twelvemonth
back at Philadelphia, when he first arrived: he talked
English very well, but was very shy when any one spoke
to him, as all the Indians are, though upon a better
acquaintance he would be facetious, and sometimes
would be ridiculously antic. He mentioned a fact,
which is scarcely credible, but which was confirmed by
several ofiicers then in the house, and who were in the
engagement : — that immediately on the motion of General
"Wayne's army to attack the Indians, he ran with all the
haste imaginable, to give his countrymen the first notice
of their approach, and absolutely passed over the dis-
tance of ninety miles in twenty-four hours! To how-
ever great lengths the powers of the body or the mind
may be carried, yet this seems to stagger our faith, and to
cause us to doubt whether he might not be deceived with
respect to the distance.

The width of the Monongahela river at its junction

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 149

with the Allegany is 1,089 feet; and the Allegany is
nearly the same width. When I arrived there the
water was so low that cattle waded across both rivers ;
thougli, when the rains come down, they nearly overflow
the banks, which are about thirty feet high. It having
been very dry for some weeks prior to our arrival there,
we were obliged to wait some time before the river was
high enough for us to venture down ; for in low water
on the Ohio, there are a number of rocky shoals which
extend the whole width of the river, and over which the
water is driven with great impetuosity, causing it to
ruffle and roar like a milltail, which makes it dangerous
for boats going down at this season of the year, till the
water has risen high enough to cover these obstructions.
These places, which are very numerous till you arrive at
Tart's Rapids, are called by the inhabitants " Riffles ; " I
suppose, a corruption from the word " ruffle," as the water
is violently agitated in those parts.

The principal part of the inhabitants in this place are
either storekeepers or engaged in some handicraft. The
houses (which are mostly of wood) are generally well
built for a new-settled place ; though they have lately
taken to building them with brick, of which there are
great quantities made near the town. A new town-hall
which they were building will add much to the beauty
of the place.

M. Laches, a general in the French army, who boarded
in the same house Avith us, intending to proceed down
the Ohio in a small skiff which he had purchased,
we agreed to go down a little way with him, to see
whether the river was deep enough to take our boat
down or not. Accordingly, about twelve o'clock we

150 JOUENAL OF A TOUPw

started, and, I must confess, I felt myself highly de-
lighted on first entering this beautiful stream : a stream
which, after running near 1,500 miles, and receiving
several others almost as large as itself, empties itself into
another still larger, where it is considered as a mere
rivulet.

We had not proceeded above two or three miles, before
we came to one of those riffles I have been speaking of,
and just above which I observed several boats made fast
to the shore, fearing to venture over it. We made to-
wards that part of the river where the commotion* was
the greatest, and, our skiff being light and narrow, we
were carried through without sustaining any accident.
It is impossible to pass these places without some mo-
mentary sensations, which such a conflict of the rocks
and waters naturally excite; otherwise, the rapidity of
the motion with which you are carried through the
stream is far from being unpleasant; and, under the
guidance of a person who understands the navigation of
the river, you may wholly divest yourself of fear for your
personal safety.

We proceeded about thirteen or fourteen miles down
the river, having passed over six of these riffles in so
short a distance ; and here we put ashore about an hour
before sunset, at a farmhouse we saw on the banks.
Here we stopped, intending to pass the night; and ac-

* Contrary to what an unexperienced j)erson might suppose, it
is always the best way to make towards that part where the water
is most violently agitated, as there the river is the deepest, and
there is no danger unless your boat strike against the rocks. By
attending to this observation, a person may generally conduct his
boat with safety.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 151

cordingly we went a little way into the woods, and killed
some squirrels for our supper, and bringing them home,
the old gentleman of the mansion, whose name was
Woollerj, furnished us with some turnips, pumpkins, and
other necessaries, and we soon had a dish of excellent
soup. Whilst this was getting ready, the general (who
had brought his violin with him, on which he plays ex-
ceedingly well) struck up a tune, which soon brought
in the old gentleman's family, among whom were three
or four pretty daughters. Seeing such a party collected
together, a dance was immediately thought of, and a
dance was soon commenced, not much in the style either
of Bath or Paris, but sufficiently pleasing to drive away
the gloom inspired by the surrounding wilderness, and to
banish all idea of separation from civilized society.

The general was a very pleasant man, and kept us
agreeably entertained the whole evening. After supper,
some blankets were spread on the floor before the fire,
(the only bedding which is to be expected in this part of
the country; and not always that, unless you take it
with you), and we all laid down and slept very soundly
till morning. As it was the first time that I had ever
experienced this new kind of couch, it was some time
before I could compose myself to sleep ; but so far does
custom influence our dispositions and conduct, that it
will be seen in the sequel I have often preferred this
mode of sleeping when I have had the choice of a
feather bed. In the morning, to our regret, we parted
with the general, he proceeding down the river, and we
endeavouring to make the shortest way by land through
the woods to Pittsburgh. We took some breakfast before
we started, and then, loading our guns, we struck into

162 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

the woods, and in the afternoon we found ourselves upon
the banks of the river, about three miles below Pitts-
burgh, where we had observed the boats the day before.
We went aboard one of them, and, getting some refresh-
ment, readied town in the evening, having in the former
part of our route missed our road, which carried us some
miles out of our way.

Thursday, November ^Uh, 1796. — The river having
risen within these few days, in consequence of some rain
which had lately fallen, we started from Pittsburgh this
afternoon, about three o'clock ; however, we did not pro-
ceed above four miles down, as the stream was very slow,
and we were afraid to venture in the night in consequence
of the riffles, which were not completely covered ; there-
fore, seeing some other boats near the shore, we made
towards them, and joined them for that evening. I
thought it a very pleasant sight to see so many boats
floating down the stream at the same period. The late
dry weather had prevented all navigation for some time,
and the vast body of emigrants and storekeepers who
were bound to Kentucky made them take this advantage
of proceeding on their voyage. Accordingly, as soon as
the river was reported to be navigable, all the Kentucky
boats (as this flat-bottomed craft is termed) were in
motion, and eager to pursue their" route. As the gentle-
man who travelled with me was going to establish a set-
tlement on the Miami river, he had got every article that
he thought would be necessary in his new habitation;
therefore, we were not so badly accommodated as some
of the boats were, who went sometimes most miserably
supplied, with scarcely a covering to the boat or a blanket
to lie down on, and barely a pot or a kettle to dress

JOURNAL OP A TOUR. 153

what provisions they might chance to meet with. We
had laid in a sufficient quantity of beef, mutton, flour,
bacon, and what other provisions we thought we might
want, and we had three or four good feather beds and
plenty of bedding ; and as it was very cold weather, we
stopped every crevice we conveniently could, and made
ourselves a very comfortable habitation : and as we
might now and then meet with a plantation on the river
side, where we might get milk, or eggs, or butter, we had
not the prospect of a very unpleasant voyage, especially
as we expected to reach our place of destination before
the winter set in. However, our views were disappointed
in this respect, as we were frozen up ere we had pro-
ceeded half the distance, our boat carried ofi" by the ice,
and ourselves reduced to great straits for provisions in
the midst of a wilderness.

Frid.ay, November 25th, 1796. — By daylight we
started in company with another boat. The stream was
very dull, we therefore kept our men constantly rowing,
and then could not proceed above two miles and a half an
hour. At eleven we came to Woollery's, where we put
the boat ashore to bring off the old gentleman to pilot
us over a very bad riffle just below his. house. When we
had got him aboard, we reminded him of the pleasant
evening we passed at his house, which he seemed to
remember with much satisfaction. After we had passed
over the riffle we gave him half a dollar, (which is a fee
they generally expect,) and set him ashore again. We
stopped this night opposite the mouth of Big Beaver
Creek, on the western side of which creek there is a new
settlement formed, called Fort Mackintosh. We sent the
men ashore to cut down some wood ; for the wind was

154 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

very high, and the weather very cold ; the effects of which
we found the next morning ; —

Saturday, November 26th, 1796; — for we observed
several large pieces of ice floating down the river, some of
which obstructed our passage very much this day ; and
we observed several boats ashore, which were afraid to pro-
ceed any farther till the ice had passed off a little. About
one we passed the Pennsylvania line, which crosses the
river from north to south, extending as far northward
as lake Erie. The wind was very high to-day, which,
together with the quantities of ice, which seemed to in-
crease, determined us to wait till the weather should
prove more favourable before we proceeded farther.
Accordingly, the next morning, —

Sunday, November 2^th, 1796, — having proceeded
about two miles farther on the river, we observed two
other boats made fast to the shore, and accordingly
joined them ; and as there was a plantation within a
short distance of the place, we got supplied with what
little necessaries we might want ; and amused ourselves
by shooting in the woods during the short time we were
here, which was till

Wednesday, November 30th, 1796, — when, the river
having cleared itself of a great quantity of ice, we deter-
mined to proceed. Accordingly about eleven o'clock we
started, and, in spite of all the obstructions which the ice
was continually throwing in our way, we managed to get
eleven miles this day. The next morning, —

Thursday, December \st, 1796, — we got fast upon a
riffle near Brown's Island ; but as it was a sandy one, we
got off without any danger, on lightening the boat. A
little after three we passed Buffaloe Town and Creek.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 155

Buffaloe Town (which I believe is also called Charles-
town) is a new settlement, containing about thirty or
forty houses, very pleasantly situated on the banks of the
Ohio, and just at the mouth of the Creek, on the eastern
side of it. It was about two miles below this town where
we stopped this night. The next day, —

Friday, December 2nd, 1796, — we met with a disaster
which threatened us with very disagreeable consequences ;
but from which we were happily relieved, without expe-
riencing any material loss. It was about two o'clock in
the afternoon ; the river was very full of ice, and we were
floating along at a slow pace, when, about a mile above
the town of Wheeling, (where there was a riffle), we got
aground, and all our endeavours to get her off were in-
effectual, and no remedy was left but to unload the
boat. Accordingly we loaded a little skiff which we had
with us, and sent her down to the town ; and this we
repeated twice before it grew dark ; but our endeavours
to get her off were still ineffectual, and we were obliged
to remain in this situation all night, — in the middle of
the river, the stream running with great rapidity and
bringing down with it vast quantities of ice, which came
against us with great violence, and with a noise like
thunder, and threatened at every repeated stroke to stave
the sides of the vessel. In order to break the force of
the ice, we nailed a plank on the stern, and fixed the
oars out at the after part of the boat, so that the ice
might be cut in two and separated ere it struck us. This
had the desired effect, and we had the satisfaction of
seeing daylight appear without experiencing any other
loss except that of sleep ; and early in the morning, —

Siaturday, December "Srd, 1 796, — we sent another skiff-

156 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

load down to the town ; and ay?aj^ coming down the river
about breakfast time, we got the men to stop, and we then
unloaded the boat sufficiently to let her float down to the
town, which place we reached about ten o'clock. The
stream was so rapid from the place where we ran aground
down to the town, that one man in the skiff" could not
oppose the current with a pair of oars ; and it was with
difficulty that two could accomplish it.

Wheeling is about a hundred miles down the river
from Pittsburgh, and may contain about fifty houses.
It was settled some few years back by Mr. Lane, who has
a house in the town built with stone. Lane is related to
some Indian families by intermarrying with them ; and
some of them were visiting at his house when we were
there. There is a creek runs from east to west at the
south end of the town ; and on the north side of the
creek, on the banks of the river, there is a block fort, in
which are about five or six men. A number of these
forts are established at different places on the Ohio, and
were of use formerly, when the country was first settled,
to keep off the incursions of the Indians ; but, on account
of the frontier settlements of Kentucky and the north-
western territory, these surrounded colonies do not stand
in need of any farther support.

Wheeling, like Buffaloe, is situated on a bottom about
fifty or sixty feet* above the bed of the river, and sur-
rounded at the back by very high hills. There has been
a road lately blazed \ on the north side of the Ohio,

* This is only the case when the river is low j at other times
the water flows even with, and sometimes over the banks, so
amazingly does this river rise when the floods come down.

t To blaze a road, is to mark the trees on each side with a

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 157

which reaches from Limestone, in the state of Kentucky,
to Pittsburgh ; and it crossed the Ohio at this place,
which renders it a town of great resort when the roads
are passable. These roads are seldom travelled but in
parties ; and they are obliged to take their provisions
with them, and also blankets for their bedding ; in
which manner they travel somewhat like our gypsies.
There was a party of Kentucky merchants collecting when
we were tliere, and they were to start in a day or two.
If a person intending to go through the wilderness does
not ktiow of a party going, it is not unusual for him to
advertise in some of the provincial papers ; and sometimes
the parties themselves will advertise, in order that others
may join them ; but the best and most usual way is to
stop at the last town (such as Wheeling) through which
they must pass, and then join them as they go through.

Wednesday, December Itli, 1796. — After laying in a
fresh stock of provisions at this place, and repairing the
little damage we experienced from the ice, we pushed off
from the shore, and continued our progress down the
river. We had stayed near five days at Wheeling, during
which we were in doubt whether we should proceed any
farther or not till the river should rise, and get a little
clearer of ice. This morning we found it had risen about
five inches, in consequence of some rains which we sup-
posed had fallen near the heads of the river ; and this
determined us to continue on. Mr. Bell, a Kentucky mer-
chant, lay at Wheeling with his boat at the same time

tomahawk ; it is done by chopjiing off the bark about three or four
inches broad, and six or eight long ; and a person well used to it
will blaze as he rides along. If the bark be not completely exit
through, the mark will never grow out.

158 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

that we did ; and we both started together. We went
about twelve miles down the river this day ; and in the
evening put to, on the southern shore of the Ohio, oppo-
site a small settlement, called Grave Creek, from the num-
ber and size of some ancient mounds which are found in
that place, and which are supposed to have been burying
mounds. Of these we shall have occasion to speak here-
after. The next morning, —

Thursday, December 8th, 1796, — we floated about six,
and at twelve we put ashore, to inquire concerning a bad
riffle at Capteen Island, which we understood was difficult
to pass. Seeing a bit of a hut on the shore, we made our
boat fast to some trees on the banks and went to inquire
about it. We stopped here near two hours. The person
whom we met with there was just come down the river, and
was forming himself a plantation ; he had made himself a
miserable hut, and was erecting some kind of shelter for
the few cattle he had brought with him. About two
o'clock we left him ; and, passing Capteen Riffle in safety,
we proceeded about nine miles down the river this day.
Here we put ashore at a plantation which was inhabited
by Mr. Daily, an Irishman. He informed us that the Ohio
was frozen up about five miles, and that it would be im-
possible for us to proceed. The weather had been very
cold for several days, and the river had continued to fall ;
so that we determined to moor our boat in some place of
safety, where she might not be exposed to the logs and
large trees which are continually drifting down the river,
and there to wait for a change of weather. Accordingly,
the next day, —

Friday, December 9 th, 1796, — Heigh way and myself
walked down the banks of the river, about five miles, to a

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 159

place called Fish Creek, and, to our sorrow, found it com-
pletelj blocked up with ice, and frozen over for several
miles down, so that it was absolutely impossible to pro-
ceed. We observed four or five boats on the opposite
shore, who were in the same predicament with ourselves.
Having satisfied ourselves in this respect, we returned
home to our boat, and the next day, —

Saturday, Becemher lOth, 1796, — we dropped down
the river about a mile to a place which we had ob-
served yesterday in our walk, and which we conceived
more secure from the bodies drifting down the river,
than the one we were in. Having moored ourselves,
as we conceived, in a place of safety, and having every
prospect of passing the winter in this situation, we
began to apply ourselves to the laying in of a good
stock of provisions. Mr. Bell's boat was with us; and
another boat which was proceeding down the river had
joined us ; and we all lay moored together ; so that
there were fourteen or fifteen of us in company : and
we every day sent out some of them into the woods with
their guns to hunt for deer, turkeys, bears, or any other
animals fit for food. We had a good quantity of flour and
of Indian meal with us ; so that as long as our gunpowder
lasted (of which we were very sparing) we had not much
prospect of suffering a great deal from hunger ; which, in
a country like that, surrounded with plenty, would have
been truly shocking.

There was a plantation or two in the neighbourhood,
one of which, I mentioned, belonged to Mr. Daily, but they
could render us no assistance, nor furnish us with any
article we wanted ; they were, in fact, in the same desti-
tute situation in which we were — obliged to depend upon

160 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

their guns for subsistence ; and if they gathered a crop of
corn in summer, it was generally gone before the winter
was over, or at least reduced to a very scanty pittance.
There was also a settlement about nine miles off, called
Grave Creek ; but it was impossible to get to it by water,
and the road by land to it, through the woods, was very
bad, and in this weather even dangerous. However, as I
had a great desire to see the curiosities which are in that
place, I could not refrain from going over there ; accord-
ingly, getting Mr. Daily to be my guide, we set off one
afternoon {December I6th) to see them. The sun had
shone beautifully bright all that day, and it was about
two hours high when we started. We at first traversed
over a flat bottom on the banks of the river, and then,
ascending a very steep and high hill, we were carried
along the ridge of it till we came within about a mile of
the place. As this hill carried us above the level of the
surrounding country, every break through the trees pre-
sented to us a sea of woods, whose tops, just tinged by
the setting sun, displayed one of the most beautiful
sylvan scenes I ever remember seeing ; at the same time,
every now and then the Ohio opened to our view, whose
gentle stream, covered with the drifting ice, formed a fine
contrast to its umbrageous shores. We had scarcely pro-
ceeded half our journey before a bear with three cubs
crossed the road at some distance before us. She did not
observe us, neither did we attack them, as we had but one
gun in company. They were making towards the river,
and Mr. Daily informed me that it was most probable they
would find shelter in the rocks on the shore for that
night, and in the morning cross it ; however, when we
got to Grave Creek, we sent some persons after them ;

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 161

but I never heard whether they took them or not
Within about a mile of Grave Creek, we had, from the
point of the hill we were just descending, a fine prospect
of the rough buildings which compose this settlement ;
and the smoke ascending through the thick woods, which
was beautifully tinged by the setting sun, heightened the
effect of the scenery. Here too we had another view of
the Ohio, which had just shaped its course round a point
of land not a great distance from us, and whose bed
might be traced (though unseen) by the dark cavity
which was observed amongst the tops of the trees, which
extended as far as the eye could reach. My attention
was taken off from this beautiful prospect, on which I
dwelt some time with pleasure, by the roughness of the
path which carried us down the hill. It was at least five
or six hundred feet high from the level of the river, and
nearly perpendicular; at least so much so that there
were steps cut in the ground in many places like a pair
of stairs, and I often turned round with my face towards
the ground, as if I were going down a ladder, fearful that
my foot might slip had I proceeded otherwise. However,
with regret, we descended the dark valley below in
safety, and soon arrived at the settlement, where we
slept that night ; and in the morning I went out to see
the curious remains of antiquity with which this place
abounds. They consist of circular and square entrench-
ments and mounds, which are scattered at different dis-
tances for ten or twelve miles along the banks of the
Ohio. One of the principal circular entrenchments is on
the very spot where the settlement is built ; and three of
the principal mounds also are within a hundred yards of
the same, one of which is near one hundred feet high,

M

162 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

and has trees growing on it to the very top, some of
which must be very old ; at least they appear of the
same size and age with those which grow in the surround-
ing valley. With respect to the entrenchments, they are
about breast high, and appear, from their situation, &c.,
to have been intended for, and used as, fortifications ; and
these mounds (from which the settlement takes its name)
seem to have been graves, either used as public burying
places, or thrown up for those dead who might have fallen
in some engagement near the place. I was informed that
one of these mounds has been opened, and that it was
found to contain human* bones, which (if true) confirms
the opinion. There are three mounds at this place, the
principal of which I have mentioned as far exceeding the
others in size and height. I walked up to the top of
it, and found that it took exactly one hundred steps to
reach it ; and each of these steps I computed to rise me
about a foot, so that the mound was at least one hundred
feet high. The top of it was sunk in the middle, which

* I have seen several of these ancient remains in different parts
of the country near the Ohio ; on the two Miami rivers they are
very numerous, and I have not the least doubt in my own mind
but that they "were built by a race of people more enlightened than
the present Indians, and at some period of time very far distant ; for
the present Indians know nothing about their use, nor have they
any tradition concerning them. I have seen some of them so
small, as to induce a belief that they were intended for tlie de-
fence of one family only. In other places I have seen some
of them so large as to be capable of containing a great army : in
this latter case, they have generally two or three or more of the
buryiag mounds near them. Their situation is generally near
some water ; and if they shovdd happen to be at some little dis-
tance from it, there is sometimes a covered way made down to it,
in order to defend the garrison when they go down to fetch it.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 163

(if it really has been a burying-place) may arise from
the dissolution of the dead bodies beneath. I walked
round the top of it, and found it took me about seventy
steps, which, allowing two and a half feet for a step,
makes the diameter of the top, at a rough calculation,
between fifty and sixty feet. On a tree rising from the
middle of the hollow on the top of the mound there
were a number of names carved by those whom curiosity
had drawn to visit this place. As to the entrenchments,
what remained of them was perfectly circular ; but in
many parts the ground had been torn up either by the
cattle, or to plant their corn.

Having satisfied my curiosity with respect to this
place, we set off in the afternoon, and, striking through
the woods, reached our boat in the evening.

We continued at this place about a fortnight, anxiously
expecting every day that the river would break up, and
thereby give us an opportunity of proceeding on our
route. Some heavy rains which had fallen within these
few days gave us reason to hope for this favourable event.
But, alas ! how vain are the expectations of men, and how
short-sighted in all their views ! The event, as we had
fondly imagined, did take place, but with circumstances
that rendered our situation still more unpleasant and
dangerous.

It was on Tuesday^ the l^th of December, that our
spirits seemed to be more than commonly high at this
prospect of escaping from our imprisonment. We had
even been a little more lavish than common of the rough
fai'e which we met with in these uncivilized parts. The
snow was upon the ground, and the weather severely
cold, the thermometer standing at seventeen degrees

M 2

164 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

below zero. The noise of the Ohio, bound in its wintry
chains, was heard no more ; and the rude blast, whistling
through the trees, strongly marked out to us our separa-
tion from an inhabited country. Our boat was firmly
frozen up by the ice, close to the shore, and we had the
precaution to fasten her with strong chains to some large
trees on the banks, lest the ice (when it broke up) might
carry her away ; we had also cut down a large tree just
above the boat, (which was not perfectly separated from
the stump,) in order to break the force of the ice float-
ing down the stream, and which, coming against our boat,
might endanger it. Having taken these precautions we
went to bed soon after sunset, and about one o'clock the
next morning, —

Wednesday, December 21st, 1796, — we were awakened
out of our sleep with a noise like thunder, and, jump-
ing out of our beds, we found the river was rising, and
the ice breaking up. All attempts would be feeble to
describe the horrid crashing and tremendous destruction
which this event occasioned on the river. Only conceive
a river near 1,500 miles long, frozen to a prodigious
depth (capable of bearing loaded waggons) from its source
to its mouth, and this river by a sudden torrent of water
breaking those bands by which it had been so long fet-
tered! Conceive this vast body of ice put in motion at
the same instant, and carried along with an astonishing
rapidity, grating with a most tremendous noise against
the sides of the river, and bearing down everything which
opposed its progress! — the tallest and the stoutest trees
obliged to submit to its destructive fury, and hurried
along with the general wreck ! In this scene of confu-
sion and desolation, what was to be done ? We all soon

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 165

left the boat in order every one to provide for liis own
personal safety ; but seeing that the precautions we had
taken the day before prevented the ice from coming upon
us so soon as it otherwise would have done, and that
there was a chance, though at great risk, of saving some,
if not all, the things from the boat, we set to, as earnestly
as we could, to unload her. There were near eleven tons
of goods in her, the principal of which were implements
of husbandry, designed for Mr. Heigh way's plantation ; the
rest consisted of articles of barter, intended for the In-
dians, and of provision and other necessaries during our
journey. We, in the first place, took care to secure these
last mentioned ; and then we set about getting out the
others, some of which were very bulky, weighing upwards of
five hundred weight. We had not proceeded in this un-
dertaking above a quarter of an hour, when a large sheet
of ice came against our boat, and, with a tremendous crash,
stove in one side of her ! We saw it coming, and hap-
pily escaped from the boat before it reached us. She
was immediately filled with water, but as she was near
the shore, and almost touched the bottom, (the water
being very low,) she was not immediately covered. The
river was rising at a very rapid rate, and as we knew
that if we once lost sight of her, we should never see her
more, and as we saw that there was still a chance of
saving something more from the wreck, (though at the
risk of our lives,) which might tend to make our situa-
tion more comfortable whilst we were obliged to stay
here, and not leave us utterly bereft of every necessary,
we determined upon making one more effort ; therefore,
jumping into the boat, up to our middle in water, we
continued to work near three hours, amidst vast fields of

166 JOUKNAL OF A TOUR.

ice, which were continually floating by us, and whose
fury we would escape when they made towards us, on
being warned by one of our party, whom we had set on
the banks to watch. In this manner did we persevere,
till we had got most of the things out of the boat, in one
of the coldest nights ever remembered in this country:
the thermometer^^ was at 17° below zero, and so intense
was the cold, that the iron chain which fastened our
boat had the same effect on our hands as if they had
been burned with a hot iron. Farther, whilst we were
in the boat this last time, the moment we raised our
legs above the water, (in walking,) our stockings froze to
them, before they were put down again, as tight as if
bound with a garter ! In such a situation and in such
severe weather, it is a wonder we had not perished ; and
possibly we might, had not the river, which was now
rising rapidly, completely covered our boat, and obliged
us to desist from our attempts. Thus went our boat! —
and thus went every hope of our proceeding on our jour-
ney! Thus were all our flattering prospects cut short,
and none left but the miserable one of fixing our winter
habitation on these inhospitable shores !

It was still dark when this event happened, and this,
added to the desolation which was making around us,
whose power we could hear but not discern, heightened
the effect of our forlorn situation. Some women who
were of our party had kindled a fire on the banks; and
when we saw that no more could be done, we took our
blankets, and clearing away the snow, lay ourselves down

* On the 22nd December, at 8 a.m., it was at 5" below zero ; and
on tbe 23rd December, at 8 a.m., it was at 7^** below zero; at the
mouth of the Ohio, as observed by Mr. EUicott.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 167

before it, and, overcome with fatigue, gave ourselves up
to rest. Some of our party were so affected by the in-
tense cold, and by so long exposure in the water, that
their feet were frostbitten ; others had their legs swelled
up in large knots as big as an egg. As to myself, I felt
no ill effects from either.

When morning approached, a scene the most dis-
tressing presented itself to our view. The river was one
floating wreck! Nothing could be discerned amidst the
vast bodies of floating ice, (some of which were as big as
a moderate-sized house,) but trees which had been torn
up from the banks, and the boats of many a family
who had scarcely time to escape unhurt from such an
unlooked-for event, and whose whole property (perhaps
scraped together to form a settlement in this distant ter-
ritory) was now floating down, a prey to the desolating
flood. Canoes, skiffs, flatts, in fact, everything which was
opposed to its fury, was hurried along to one general ruin.

As daylight advanced, we had also an opportunity of
seeing in what situation we stood ourselves ; and here,
instead of finding any ray of comfort or hope, we observed
our misfortunes increasing upon us, for the bank where
we lay was full fifty feet high and nearly perpendicular ;
so much so, that it could not be ascended or descended
without great difficulty. There happened to be a little
bit of a level where the boat was, and where we placed
the things we had preserved from the wreck ; but the
water was rising so rapidly, that it had almost covered
this place, and we were under the necessity (worn out as
we were) of carrying them still higher up the bank, or
they would have shared the fate of our vessel. This was
a most laborious undertaking, and to have hauled them

168 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

to the top of the bank, would have taken us up some
days ; we were, therefore, under the necessity of hauling
them up one by one about two or three feet at a time,
and lodging them behind the trees which grew on the
bank, and which prevented their rolling back into the
river ; and this we were obliged to continue to do till
we saw the river had ceased rising ; and then we left
them for a day or two, in order to rest ourselves from
our fatigue, and to fix up some kind of habitation to
protect us from the inclemency of the weather.

Having thus happily escaped from this danger, and
saved most of our property from the flood, we set about
erecting a covering under which to lodge it ; and this
we did with a number of blankets and some coarse linen
which we had brought with us : it was a rough sort of
building, but such an one as answered our purpose in the
situation we were in. "We made it by fixing two poles in
the ground, about ten or twelve feet asunder, and laying
another transversely at the top of them. This was the
front of our tent, and was left always open. The back
and sides were formed by straight poles leaning against
the horizontal one which was placed transversely across,
and over them were thrown blankets, &c. This secured
us in a measure from the rain, which ran ofi" almost as
fast as it fell ; and, in order to keep off the cold, we kept
a large fire constantly burning in the front of our tent ;
and thus circumstanced, we endeavoured to make ourselves
as comfortable as we could, consoling ourselves, that it
might have been worse with us ; and that even now we
were not so badly off as many'''' of those who had descended

* Bj accovmts which I saw in several of the neswpapers after-
wards, I found that the hreaking up of the Ohio occasioned a

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 169

the river this season. Here we found full employment
for some time in drying our goods, which had got wetted
when the ice stove the boat. Some of the packages were
so much frozen as to take three days standing constantly
before the fire, ere we could get out their contents to dry
them. This took us up near three weeks, during which
time we had got into more comfortable lodgings. For in
the neighbourhood of this place we had found a log-house,
which appeared to have been used for the purpose of keep-
ing fodder for cattle. It was open on all sides between
the logs ; but this we soon remedied, by lining the whole
with the blankets and coarse linen which before we had
covered our tent with. We also built up a chimney in it,
and had our fire wholly within doors ; so that now we
began to look a little more in order, though there was no
flooring to the house, neither was there any window, for

degree of mischief unknown in any preceding period. Out of
several hundred families which descended the river this season,
there were very few but experienced its ill effects in some measure
or other. Some who were asleep in their boats at the time it
happened had but just time to make their escape to the banks,
whilst their boat (containing, perhaps, every particle of property
■which they possessed in the world,) was torn away by the violence
of the current, and never seen more. Others were overtaken more
unexpectedly, and, property and all, were hui-ried down the river,
crying in vain to the spectators on the shore to come to their assist-
ance. Some of these boats would happily strike the shore, where
they were secured ; but others, many others, would soon be staved
by the floating ice, and everything on board be lost. There was an
instance of this kind recorded in the Pittsburgh paper, where a
man and his family, together with a number of negro slaves, all
perished in this manner : they were seen from the shore in several
places along the banks, but no one would venture to their assistance,
for fear of sharing the same fate.

170 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

all the light we had came down the chimney, which was
large and wide, or in at the door; however, this was a
luxury with which we could easily dispense, considering
the hardships we had gone through ; therefore, hauling
all our goods to this place, and stowing them under this
roof, we may, not improperly, be said to have commenced
house-heeping . This was on the

2Uh December ; and as it was above a mile from the
place where we were, we made a sledge for the conve-
nience of dragging our goods to the house ; otherwise, we
should never have been able to have accomplished it.
We had four horses aboard with us, which expedited us
in this undertaking very much.

December 25th, Christmas Day. — Two of our party
being ill with the fatigues we had undergone on the 21st,
the task of superintending the conveyance of our goods
devolved upon' me. We had been employed at it the
whole of yesterday ; and as soon as daylight approached
this morning we began the same career again, nor did
we cease this routine, except to take the scanty pittance
we had saved from the wreck, till the setting sun and our
own weary limbs told us it was time to close the scene
once more. I could not think of the happy moments
which were enjoyed in my own country on this auspicious
day, and perhaps by those whose remembrance is the
most dear to me, without contrasting them with my present
situation. Here am I in the wilds of America, away from
the society of men, amidst the haunts of wild beasts and
savages, just escaped from the perils of a wreck, in want
not only of the comforts, but of the necessaries of life,
housed in a hovel that in my own country would not be
good enough for a pigstye, at a time too when my father, my

JOURNAL OF A TOtJR. 171

mother, my brothers, my sisters, my friends and acquaint-
ance, in fact, the whole nation^ were feasting upon the
best the country could aiford. I could not but picture to
myself the fireside of my own home, where I saw them
all assembled round ; a beam of happiness perhaps glisten-
ing in every face, save when after dinner I was remem-
bered in their glasses ; then, perhaps, a sigh broke out
from some of them, and the conversation might turn upon
" where I was," and " what I was doing ;" but this dying
away, I should soon be forgotten again, and they would
return to spend the day in mirth and happiness. Ah !
little do they think of the hardships I have undergone, or
of those which seem to continue to press us. Little do
they think that, while they are partaking of all the
bounties of nature, that I am suffering the contrary
extreme through want ; and would gladly partake of the
refuse of their table, or thankfully receive what they
would give a common beggar at the door. Methought, if
I could but make my appearance in the midst of them at
this time, that I should scarce be remembered by them ;
my long beard, my rough and tattered clothes, and all
together would puzzle them at first to conceive what
stranger was come amongst them ; at least, I think they
would begin to chide the servant for admitting so uncouth
a visitor before they would recollect or discover who I
was.

Our meal this day was the most scanty we have had
for some time. We had some apples on board our boat,
of which, together with some coarse Indian meal, we
endeavoured to make an apple pudding ; it was a rough
kind of a one, but such as it was, it constituted our only
food for this day. To be sure, we were in the midst of

172 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

plenty, for there was abundance of deer and turkeys in
the woods ; but we were too much engaged in the confu-
sion of our wreck to spare the time to go after them.
However, finding our stock of provisions diminishing very
fast every day, we were obliged, for our own preservation,
to seek after them. Accordingly, we took it by turns to
go out every morning with our gun and shoot whatever
we could find ; and many a time would we lay ourselves
down at night without a prospect of anything where-
with to break our fast the next morning, save what our
guns might procure us the next day ; yet even in the
midst of this apparent distress, we were very happy. We
all enjoyed one of the greatest blessings of Providence,
which is a good state of health ; and as to the rest, we
were strangers to all those artificial wants which man in
a civilized state has brought upon himself. Those which
we stood in need of were easily satisfied ; and the very
means which we took to satisfy them was one of our chief
pleasures, and afforded us the greatest amusement. All
that we wanted was the necessaries of life, the mere food
we eat; and the getting of this constituted our chief
diversion. Whether it were the novelty of the thing
which attracted us, or the scenery of the country, and
the sublimity of its views, so very different from what
we had been used to in the old country, I know not ;
but certain it is, there is something so very attractive
in a life spent in this manner, that were I disposed to
become a hermit, and seclude myself from the world, the
woods of America should be my retreat : there should I,
with my dog and my gun, and the hollow of a rock for
my habitation, enjoy undisturbed all that fancied bliss
attendant on a state of nature. Often, when I have

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 173

wandered across the woods in search of game to carry
home to my companions, have I been lost in contempla-
tion raised by the grandeur and novelty of the scenery
around me. Happy men ! cried I, who, ignorant of all
the deceits and artifices attendant on a state of civiliza-
tion, unpractised in the vices and dissipation of degraded
humanity, unconscious of artificial and unnecessary wants,
secluded from all those pomps and ridiculous ostentations
which serve to enslave one half of a nation for the grati-
fication of the other ; unshackled with the terrors which
fanaticism and superstition inspire ; enjoying equally the
free blessings which nature intended for man, how much,
alas! how much I envy you! Could I but renounce
those habits which education and custom have endowed,
how cheerfully would I join your lot, which men (more
barbarous) have branded with the name of savage, but
where are found health, happiness, and independence,
three of the greatest blessings the Divine Being can bestow
upon man ! Tis true the arts and sciences have not
found their way amongst you, but it is much to be
doubted whether they bring with them their boasted
advantages. Great pleasure may be derived from the pur-
suit of them by some of their votaries ; but how few, alas !
how few are they, in comparison to the bulk of mankind !
And it will ever remain an undetermined problem, whether
human happiness has kept pace with the progress that has
been made in the arts of civilization; — whether man has
not given up the innocence, happiness, and independence
he enjoyed in a state of nature, for the vices, misery, and
oppression which are evidently too glaring in an im-
proved state of society. In the former situation, his
wants are few, and those wants easily satisfied ; and if at

174 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

any time, through accident, he be reduced to great distress
for provisions, he takes without repining, in fact with
thankfulness, the scanty pittance which Providence has
allowed him : his happiness and his independence go
together, and the latter is not to be taken away but with
his life. In the other situation, view the contrast, and
for the truth of it, read the history of man from the
earliest ages to the present time.

Thursday, January 5th, 1797.— We had by this time
got all our things hauled to our new habitation. We
found the greatest difficulty in getting them up the bank,
which (as I observed before) was upwards of fifty feet
high, and nearly perpendicular. When I have been
helping the men up with some of the heavier packages,
our feet have slipped from under us, and the package
(freed from its support) has come trundling down the
bank, and with difficulty been saved from falling into the
river again ; and this sometimes when we had nearly
reached the summit of the bank, so that we had all our
labour to go through again ; it often reminded me of our
fellow -labourer in the regions below, as described by
Homer in his Odyssey : — •

" I tTirn'd my eye, and as I turn'd, survey'd
A mournful vision ! tlie Sisyphian shade ;
Witt many a weary step, and many a groan,
Up the high hill he heaves a huge round stone ;
The huge round stone, resulting with a bound,
Thunders impetuous down, and smokes along the ground."

Book XI.

However, we lost very little this way, and we had the
satisfaction of observing things a little more in order ;
and, if I may so speak, of being •pretty well settled; but

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 175

this afternoon an event happened which had nearly cost
dear. By some accident or another our little habitation
caught fire, and the whole roof (which was thatched^t was
in flames ere we knew anything of the matter ; our con-
fusion was very great, as may be naturally conceived,
when it is recollected that all our necessaries and pro-
visions, in fact everything which tended to render our
situation at all tolerable, were under that very roof which
we now had the mortification to see enveloped in flames.
To make the matter worse, it was impossible to get at the
water in the river, owing to the steepness of the banks,
and the thickness of the ice near the shore ; but, as good
luck would have it, there was a spring not a great way
ofi", to which we sent all the vessels we had for water ;
and by throwing wet blankets upon the roof, and as
much water as we could get, we happily extinguished it
without any further inconvenience than having thrown
us into a terrible confusion and alarm. Had the flames
got the better of our exertions, our situation would have
been deplorable indeed ; we should then have been de-
prived at once of every means to render our forlorn situ-
ation at all comfortable ; for it would have been almost
impossible to have saved any (or very few) of the things
which were in the house ; for there was but one narrow
entrance, and our packages were too bulky to be easily
moved, and the house, being of wood, would soon have
been destroyed. We suppose the accident must have
happened from some sparks falling on the roof from the
chimney.

I had observed before that there were two other boats
with us when our accident happened on the 21st ult.
These two boats did not receive any material injury ; for,

176 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

being small, and placed below us, our boat broke off, in a
great measure, the force of the drifting ice, and they
wer^ still farther protected behind a bush of willows
which grew just within the water ; these boats therefore
went on down the river when the ice had cleared off a
little, and left us by ourselves. Circumstanced thus as
we were, we were under the necessity of getting another
boat to carry us on ; but ere we could come to any reso-
lution of this kind, or determine where we could get it
accomplished, we had the mortification to see the river
freeze over once more, and close up as fast as ever.
However, this did not prevent us from getting a boat ready
against it should break up again. Accordingly, two of
the men who accompanied us being pretty good me-
chanics, we dispatched them off to Grave Creek, across the
woods, where they might have the advantage of a saw to
saw the planks for the boat, (for as to all other tools we
had plenty of them with us,) and where they might have
the assistance of more hands if required. Accordingly,
about the middle of this month (January) they set out
for Grave Creek, taking with them all the tools which
they have occasion for in their undertaking ; and they set
about felling some trees immediately, and soon put their
work in a state of forwardness. But what relieved us
most in our present distress, was their meeting with a
supply of gunpowder, which, though small, was very
acceptable to us, as we were reduced to our last charge,
and were in a great dilemma what to do, as we depended
on our gun for our daily food.

Whilst they were getting the boat ready in this man-
ner, we would occasionally take our guns and go over to
see them, and encourage them in their undertaking.

JOURNAL OF A TOUP.. 177

These two men had lately come from England, and Mr.
H., meeting with them at Philadelphia, gave them £50
currency for their service for two years ; and they were
now going down with him to help him to form his settle-
ment on the Miami river ; they had got their wives with
them, which, together with another person and Mr. H.
(seven in all), formed our whole company. But, what is
very remarkable, and what may never happen to seven
other people who were travelling near four thousand
miles from their country, we happened to be all English.
This made it very pleasant, as in this distressing situation
in which we were, even to talk of England aflforded us
pleasure ; and it was a conversation in which we could
all feelingly join ; for in the wilds of America, all dis-
tinctions of rank are necessarily laid aside.

Those hours of the day which were not engaged in hunt-
ing, we used to employ in some useful or amusing manner ;
for even in this lonely place, if there is any disposition to
be active, there are abundant opportunities of exercisin.fy
both the body and the mind. In the first place, then,
seeing a number of sugar-trees in the neighbourhood, and
this being the right season of the year for it, we set about
making some sugar. This was an article we wished for
very much, as we had both tea and coffee with us, but
could not make use of them for want of this article ; and
in this we happily succeeded far beyond our expectations.
The sugar maple (the Acer Saccharinum of Linnaeus) grows
in great abundance in all the western parts of the middle
states of America. The upper counties of the state of
New York, and the western counties of the state of Penn-
sylvania, and all the parts bordering on the Ohio, produce
these trees in the greatest abundance. They are gene-

178 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

rally found on the richest land, and frequently in stony
ground, and mixed with the beech, ash, cherry, elm, oak,
cucumber^ and other trees ; though sometimes they will
cover six or seven acres in a body, with very few trees of
any other sort interspersed with them. When they are
found in this manner, they are called sugar groves, which
is a term applied to any place of this kind where the
process of making sugar from the trees is carried on.

It has been observed that springs of the purest water
are in great plenty where these trees abound, so that it
is almost a sure index of a desirable "''' situation for a plan-
tation. I have seen them from six inches to near three
feet diameter, though two feet is the common size for a
full-grown tree ; and their height is from 100 feet up-
wards. In the spring, ere they show a single leaf, they
put forth a beautiful white blossom. The colour of the
blossom distinguishes it from the Acer Rubrum, or the red
maple, which puts forth a blossom of a red colour. The
method of getting the sap from these trees, (for it is from
the sap that the sugar is made), is by making an incision
into the substance of the tree ; and this is generally done
either with an axe or an augur, though the latter is the
preferable method. If it penetrate but a quarter of an
inch, it is sufficient to cause the sap to ooze out at the
incision, though not in any great quantity; and any
incision made in this way to obtain the sap, is called
tapping the tree. It is remarkable, that the trees are
not at all injured by tapping ; on the contrary, the oftener

* It is a well-known fact, that the Americans judge of the
quality of land when they are in the woods from the kinds of trees
which grow on it. Thus maple, hiccory, buck-eye, &c., indicate
the richest soil.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 179

they are tapped, the more syrup and of a better quality
is obtained from them : in this respect they follow a law
of animal secretion. A single tree has not only survived,
but flourished, after forty-two tappings in the same num-
ber of years. (See " Amer. Phil. Trans.") The efl"ects of
a yearly discharge of sap from the tree in improving and
increasing the sap, are demonstrated from the superior
excellence of those trees which have been perforated in a
hundred places by a small woodpecker. The trees after
having been wounded in this way distil the remains of
their juice on the ground, and afterwards by the action
of the sun and the air on the juice whilst trickling down
the tree, it turns the bark of a black colour ; and this
blackness is always a sure sign of a good tree ; for, owing
to the causes above mentioned, the sap of these trees is
much sweeter to the taste than that which is obtained
from trees which have not been previously wounded, and
it affords more sugar. The wood of the sugar-maple is
exceedingly inflammable, and is preferred on that account
by hunters and surveyors when they make a fire in the
woods. Its ashes afford a great quantity of potash, ex-
ceeded by few, or perhaps by none, of the trees that grow
in the United States. The tree is said to arrive at its
full growth in about twenty years, though its existence is
supposed to be as long as the oak or any other tree.

The most preferable method of tapping the trees, and
which is the one we practised, is to bore a hole with an
inch augur, and about an inch deep, in a declined direc-
tion, so that there may be a kind of cup formed for the
sap to lie in ; then to bore another hole with a gimlet in
a horizontal direction, about the size of a quill, to enter
at the bottom of this hollow cup, in which a reed or any

N 2

180 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

hollow instrument may be inserted, to carry the sap from
the body of the tree, and to cause it to fall into a trough
placed underneath. If the tree be large, three or four
taps may be inserted in one tree. If the weather be
very favourable, the sap will run in a small stream from
the end of the reed, but generally it will only drop in
very quick succession; and it will be found necessary
every two or three days to make the tapping a little
deeper, in order to increase its produce.

The season for tapping is very early in the spring, and
may be easily determined by making an incision through
the bark with an axe ; for if it be the season, the sap will
almost immediately follow the axe. Warm days and
frosty nights are the most favourable to a plentiful dis-
charge of the sap ; and in this case the discharge is
always suspended during the night, and renewed again as
soon as the sun has warmed the trees, and then continues
running all day till sunset; when, if the weather be cold,
it ceases, but if otherwise, it will continue running all
night ; and, in this case, it is said to indicate a change of
weather ; in fact, we generally * found it so. The quan-
tity obtained from a single tree depends, in a great mea-
sure, upon its size, as well as upon the weather, varying
according to these circumstances from a pint to five
gallons. Mr. Low informed Mr. Noble, (see " Amer. Phil.
Trans.,") that he obtained near twenty-three gallons of
sap in one day (April 14th, 1789) from a single tree
which had been tapped for several successive years before.

* Imlay takes notice tliat the discharge of the sap might be of
service in ascertaining the changes of the weather, having seen a
journal wherein it was particularly noted, together with the varia-
tions in the atmosphere. (See Imlay, p. 146, note.)

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 181

Such instances, however, of a profusion of sap in single
trees are very uncommon. I have been informed, that
a moderate-sized tree will yield during the season, which
is about six weeks, from forty to fifty gallons of sap, from
which may be made about six or seven pounds of excel-
lent sugar. The method we took to preserve the sap
and make the sugar, and which is the method generally
pui'sued in this western country, is to place a rough
wooden trough (made out of any of the trees which grew
in the neighbourhood) under each tap. These troughs
may hold about a gallon ; and if the trees run fast, we go
three or four times a day and empty the sap from these
troughs into a large kettle which we carry round ; and
after having gone round to all the trees, (which is no
great distance where there are plenty of them,) we place
this kettle over a fire, which is made nearly in the centre
of the sugar-grove, and boil it down till it becomes pretty
thick ; then if the white of an egg, a little lime, or any
other article of this kind which is used by sugar refiners,
be put to it, and it be suffered to stand for twenty-four
hours, all the gross particles will fall to the bottom, and
the pure liquor may be poured off into an iron vessel,
which must be suffered to boil over the fire till it be fit
to grain, which is easily determined by trying whether it
will rope betwixt the finger and thumb: if it will, it
must then be taken off, and stirred incessantly till the
grain can be felt, when the whole process is over, and
your sugar is made. And in this manner did we make as
excellent and as well-tasted sugar as any I ever tasted in
my life. It has a flavour which distinguishes it from the
West India sugar, and which, in my opinion, is very plea-
sant; and in point of colour I think it surpasses it. It

182 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

takes about six or seven gallons of sap to make a pound
of this sugar, and the sap should not be kept longer than
twentj-four hours before it is boiled.

The season of sugar-making is a very busy time in
those parts where these trees are plenty ; it furnishes
employment for every branch of a family ; and that,
happily, at a season when they arc not otherwise em-
ployed on their plantations. It employs them night and
day ; for in the daytime they are busily employed in col-
lecting the sap as it runs from the trees, and during the
greater part of the night in boiling this sap down to its
proper consistency. The children are equally useful in this
office with the men ; for whilst the latter are doing the
laborious part of the undertaking, the children are em-
ployed in graining the sugar, and watching the kettles.
However, though the process of sugar-making is so simple
and easy, yet I never could find any sugar down the river
but what was coarse, and of a dark brown colour, and so
hard, that it looked like a lump of bees' wax. I mean
such as is offered for sale ; for people on their own plan-
tations must be negligent indeed, if they do not produce
sugar of a better quality than that.

During the little time we were here we made near
20 lbs. of sugar, which (considering the earliness of the
season, and the few trees we had tapped, and the incon-
veniences we lay under) was very considerable. Another
mean too, of employing our time (at least that of
H. and myself) was by surveying, and laying out ima-
ginary tracts of land. We had got a Gunter's chain with
us, and also a compass, out of which I made a circum-
ferenter, and with this we used to survey and make plans
of the country ; and with this, by measuring a line on

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 183

the banks of the river, we found by- trigonometry the
width of the Ohio where we were to be 1,208 feet ; and
we had an opportunity of verifying this calculation, by
actual measurement, when the river froze over again.

H. had also some books with him, which was another
source of amusement during those times when the weather
prevented us from going out, or after our return homo ;
but in this we were limited for time ; for when the sun set
all our means of reading departed, as we had no candles.
This had one good effect upon us, that it obliged us to
rise with the sun, in order that we might accomplish all
we had to do by daylight. We did make a few candles
out of the fat of some deer and some bears we had killed ;
but we were obliged to be very saving of them, and use
them only when there was an absolute necessity, though
we kept up such an excellent fire, that there was little
occasion for a candle to see our way about our hovel.
Thus, when the sun was set, all our employment had
ceased for that day ; but not our amusement, for we would
then shut the door of our miserable hut, to keep out the
chilling blast which whistled round it, and, all assembled
round the enlivening fire, we would endeavour to keep
each other in spirits by talking of Old England. Then it
was we would compare our present situation with what
we once enjoyed ; then would the presence of each of us
recal to mind some of the difficulties we had lately under-
gone, and induce us to reflect on the dangers which we had
providentially escaped ; and thus, by some kind of con-
verse, we would endeavour to pass away the evening as
pleasantly as our situation would allow, till at last our
watches would summon us to rest ; then, laying our
blankets and what bedding we had down before the fire.

184 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

we would sleep soundly and securely till the morning. I
have oftentimes, when lying down to rest, thought how
very little would suffice for man, if he were disposed to be
happy therewith. If any person, when I set out on ray
journey, had informed me of the circumstances I was to
pass through, and had related to me the situation I was
now in, I should have thought it either impossible to
have borne it, or that I should have been completely un-
happy and miserable therein. But so soon does the mind
of man accommodate itself to the trials which it is to
undergo, that I declare I did not indulge one unpleasant
thought, not feel myself at all unhappy, except when I
reflected on my separation from my friends, and how
anxiously they would wish to be informed how and where
I was. In other respects we passed our time as merrily
as if we had been at our own home, conscious that we
could not impute to our own conduct any part of our pre-
sent sufferings.

January 31^f, 1 797- — The river, which had been frozen
up now near five weeks, broke up again this day, with a
repetition of all those destructive circumstances which
attended it the last time ; and we had the anxiety of
beholding once more its ravages. It is to be observed
that the cause of the last breaking up was owing to some
partial rains which fell in the upper country, and which
caused the river to rise about ten or twelve feet ; and when
that passed off, it fell again to the depth it was before. But
this was now the time of year when it was expected that
the melting of the snow in the upper countries would not
only break up the ice, but cause the river to rise to the
level of its banks, as is customary at this season ; for all
the rivers in this back country are extremely low in

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 185

winter, so as even to allow cattle to cross ; and then
their banks, which are from forty to sixty feet, ap-
pear like walls on each side. But no sooner does the
melting of the snow cause the streams to swell, than the
rivers assume a dilFerent appearance, and not only rise
to the top of their banks, but sometimes overflow them ;
and these streams come down in so rapid a manner, as
to cause the rivers to rise ten, fifteen, and even twenty
feet in twenty-four hours. Nothing can differ more than
the contrast in the appearance which the same river
makes at these two diff"erent seasons. In the former
instance we see a broad channel from a quarter to a
mile wide, bounded on each side with high banks, and
with scarcely water enough in it to cover its bottom, and
in many places confined to one narrow stream, and flowing
with a dull and lazy current. In the latter, we see this
same channel completely filled with water, and in many
places overflowing its banks, and rushing amongst the
trees which grow thereon, and flowing with a rapidity of
five and six miles an hour, and causing every object
which is floating thereon to be carried along with an
astonishing celerity. This is the difference of the two
seasons ; and this last was the one which was now be-
ginning to open upon us, and of which this breaking up
of the ice was the prelude. For the same waters which
caused the ice to break up, raised the river to such a
degree that in the course of a few days it had nearly
reached the top of its banks ; and the same river to which
about a week before we had to descend above seventeen
yards, now flowed at our feet. We were happy to see
this change in the weather, as it flattered us with a pros-
pect of a speedy escape from this wilderness. We accord-

186 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

ingly made another visit to our men who were engaged
in building the boat ; and, expediting it as much as pos-
sible, we had the satisfaction of seeing her launched on
Friday, February 17th, and the next day, —

February 18th, — we brought her down to the place
where we lay. This boat was thirteen feet wide and
forty feet long, and boarded up at the sides and covered
over at the top all the way, except at a place in the front,
which was left for the horses, and for the men to row.
It was about nine o'clock in the evening when she
arrived. We had just laid ourselves down before the fire,
when we heard a noise not far from the house, which at
first startled us, not thinking what it might be ; but on
going out, we congratulated ourselves at seeing a light
on the river, from whence the noise proceeded, and we
soon found that the men had brought our boat down.
We went to welcome them ; and, after having made her
fast we set before them what provisions we had got by us,
and after making them detail the account of their pro-
ceedings, we lay down to rest, and before daylight the
next morning, —

February/ 19 th, — we got up, and proceeded to load
the boat. This took us up the whole day, so that it was
next morning, —

Monday, February 20th, 1797, — about ten o'clock
in the forenoon, when we pushed ofi" from the shore, and,
bidding a final adieu to our old habitation, proceeded
down the river on our journey. On taking leave of this
spot, I could not but admire the marks of civilization we
had left behind. We had cleared a piece of ground,
fitted up a comfortable house, cleared out a spring that
was in the neighbourhood, and left a sledge and other

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 187

things behind us, which would clearly point out to a
traveller on that road, that it could not be the work of the
Indians alone. The association of ideas had induced in
us an attachment to this infant settlement of our own,
and we kept our eyes constantly fixed on it, till a cruel
bend in the river snatched it from our sight for ever.
We anchored (or rather fastened our boat to the shore)
about the middle of Long Reach this evening. Long
Reach is the most beautiful place I ever saw in my life :
the river at this spot preserves one straight course for
fifteen miles, and is agreeably interspersed with a number
of islands through its whole length. It runs nearly in a
westerly direction, and the setting sun at the extreme
end, reflecting itself in the smooth water, and beautifully
tinging the distant trees, rendered it at once one of the
most sublime views I ever was witness to. The river
looked like a little sea of fire before us ; and, by the rapidity
and smoothness of its current, seemed to be silently hur-
rying us on towards it. I regretted then, more than ever,
the want of the pencil, and had the mortification of soon
seeing it vanish from my presence for ever, except when
faintly recalled by the aid of memory. We had come
thirty miles to-day, and the next morning, —

Tuesday, February 21s^, — about five o'clock, we
started and came to Muskingham* about one. Musking-
ham, so called from the river of that name, at the mouth

* It was no small satisfaction to arrive at this place, not only
that we might supply ourselves with those necessaries of which we
had been so long dej)rived ; but as we had been banished from
society so long, the sight of a few people like ourselves gave us
much pleasure ; particularly as we recollected the names of a few
persons who resided here, whom we had seen at Pittsburgh.

188 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

of which it is built, consists of about one hundred houses
agreeably situated on the eastern point where the Musk-
ingham joins the Ohio. The western bank of the Musk-
ingham rises into a very high country, forming a kind of
amphitheatre from the town. The river itself is 150
(Imlay says, 200; Hutchins, 250) yards wide at its mouth;
and in the Ohio, just above the town, there is a long
island which divides the Ohio, and when the streams join
again, makes it appear very broad from its banks ; so that
it is not much unlike three rivers falling into one current.
About a quarter of a mile from the town are the remains
of an old fort, near which are some graves nearly similar
to those at Grave Creek, and from the fort to the river
there is a covered way. The roads were so exceedingly
bad when we were there, that I could not possibly get to
them, but we could see the graves from the river. This
is said to be the first settlement made by the Americans
on the western side of the Ohio, in what is called the
north-west territory ; it was formed in the year 1787,
(see Imlay, p. 20,) and has been progressively increasing
to its present size ever since, though now the emigrants
seem disposed to go farther down the river.

We stopped here about an hour to get provisions, and
then proceeded* on our route. We did intend to put
ashore about sundown, not wishing to float all night ;
but the stream was so rapid, that we did not dare to

* We came to the Little Kanaway about five o'clock. The
Ohio makes a beautiful turn here to the right, which renders the
point of land on the northern side, opposite the Little Kanaway, a
beautiful situation. There are some good plantations on this spot,
and we put ashore in our canoe and got some eggs and milk, which
was a great treat to us. It is twelve miles from Muskingham.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 189

venture near the shore, for our boat would have been
dashed in pieces against the trees which now appeared to
grow out of the water, though, when the river was low,
thej were only on the sides of the banks ; and not find-
ing any eddy into which we might row to stop the
rapidity of her progress, we were under the disagreeable
necessity of continuing on the river all night, which, un-
fortunately for us, proved one of the most tempestuous I
ever experienced. The sun had scarcely set, ere the at-
mosphere began to be overcast, and to threaten us with a
violent storm; the wind also began to increase, which
rendered our situation very precarious, as these boats
are very dangerous in windy weather. However, as we
could not make the shore without subjecting ourselves to
greater danger, we were determined to meet the worst ;
and, in order to be ready in case of any accident or pro-
bability of danger, we all kept watch this night, and
were continually on the look out. About eight o'clock
the wind began to get pretty high, and the rain seemed
to descend in torrents. The night was exceedingly dark,
so that we could not tell in what part of the river we
were, save when the lightning broke through the clouds,
kindly informing us of our situation, and seeming to roll
in volumes along the stream ; this, mixed with the most
tremendous thunder I ever heard, resounding from the
echoing woods, rendered it one of the grandest, though
at the same time the most awful, sight the imagination
can conceive. This continued through the whole of the
night, though the wind had, fortunately for us, consider-
ably abated ; and we had the satisfaction of seeing the
dawn advance, and usher in one of the finest mornings
the eyes ever beheld. About the middle of the night I

190 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

was witness to one of the strangest scenes imaginable;
both the novelty and the horridness of it will make so
indelible an impression upon my mind that I shall never
forget it. We were surprised at seeing a light at some
distance before us, apparently on the banks of the river.
On our nearer approach to it, we observed this lire to move
in different strange directions, and for some time puzzled
our imaginations in conceiving what it could be. At
first we thought it might be some kind of ignis fatuus,
produced from the particular situation of the country,
which appeared to be swampj^ ; but on our coming oppo-
site to it, we saw distinctly the appearances of human
beings nearly naked, and of a colour almost approaching
to black ; and each of these beings furnished with a
couple of firebrands, which they held in each hand.
There might be about a dozen of them, and they had
got a large fire blazing in the middle of them, and were
dancing round it in the wildest confusion imaginable, at
the same time singing, or rather muttering, some strange
incoherent sounds. Their peculiar appearance, whose
effect was heightened by the contrast of the tempestuous-
ness of the night, and the rolling of the thunder and
lightning around us, put me in mind so much of the
descriptions which are given of the infernal regions, that
for the moment, I could not help considering them as so
many imps let loose upon the earth to perform their mid-
night orgies; though it proved to be nothing more than
a few Indians, who, disturbed by the inclemency of the
weather, could not sleep, and were innocently diverting
themselves with singing and dancing round their fire.

February 2'2nd. — This morning, about nine o'clock, the
wind began to increase again, and in the course of half

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 191

an hour got so high, that we were obliged to make to-
wards the shore, and fasten our boat to some trees on the
banks. We were now ninety-four miles from Musking-
ham, where we were yesterday at one o'clock, having
come that distance in about twenty hours, which is near
five miles an hour. We went ashore here with our guns,
to see if we could get any provisions, and soon brought
home a couple of turkeys. We proceeded a few miles
into the country, and found plenty of game and some
excellent land. We also tried for some fish in the creeks
we met with : we caught but few, and those of no
excellent quality. We observed plenty of wild fowl, but
did not think it worth while to kill them. We stopped
here till three o'clock in the afternoon, when, the wind
having abated, we pushed off from the shore, and, proceed-
ing on our route, came to the Great Kanaway^' about
seven o'clock, sixteen miles from where we stopped.
There is a settlement on the eastern side of this river,
consisting of about twenty houses, and very appro-
priately called Point Pleasant ; for though it was nearly
dark when we arrived there, yet we saw enough of it to
pronounce it a most delightful situation. We put ashore
here to get some fodder for our horses, and some neces-
saries for ourselves; and about one o'clock in the morn-
ing (the night being remarkably serene and pleasant) we
ventured to proceed on our journey.

* The Great Kanaway is near 500 yards wide at its mouth, and
is so considerable a branch of the Ohio, that it may be mistaken
for it by persons ascending this river. It rises in North Carolina,
and runs a course of 400 miles before it empties itself into the
Ohio. Its navigation is unfortunately obstructed by a fall not
eighty miles from its mouth.

192 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

About four miles below Kanaway is a settlement
formed by some Frencli people, called Galliopolis, and
near which there is an island; and about ten miles far-
ther is another island ; which are the only two islands
(excepting three very near Limestone) between the Great
Kanaway and Cincinnati, a distance of 200 miles. At
half-past nine we came to Guy and ot river (forty miles).
It is but a small stream, though in high water navigable
for batteaux. At twelve we came to Big Sandy (twelve
miles) . This is the boundary of the state of Kentucky ;
so that, having passed this, we may consider ourselves in
that famous country so celebrated by Imlay and others.
At five we put ashore for the night, not wishing to
proceed farther on account of the weather.

The next morning, Friday, February 2Uh, we started
by daylight, and at nine we came to Tigent's Creek,
which is thirty miles from Big Sandy; and at ten we
came to Sciota river, (five miles,) at the mouth of which,
on the western side, there is a settlement of about eigh-
teen or twenty houses.* Here the water had risen so
high, that it had overflowed the banks, and the poor in-
habitants of this settlement were in the greatest distress,
endeavouring to save what little property they had in
their houses from the desolating fury of the flood, and
putting it on board canoes and rafts, and taking it to some
place in the country where the water could not reach
them. We would have ofiered them some assistance, but
we did not discover their situation till we were opposite
to them; and, going with the rapidity with which we did,

* The Sciota at its mouth is about 200 yards wide, its current
gentle, and navigable for nearly 200 miles, with a portage of only
five or six miles to Sandusky.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 193

it would have been impossible to have stopped our boat
till we had got three or four miles below them ; and then
we could not have got at them, as our boat could not bear
against the stream. At half-past one we were obliged to
put ashore on account of the wind. The next morning, —
Saturdai/, February 25th,— startmg about seven, we
passed the salt works about eight, situated at the mouth
of Saltlick Creek. This is twentj-one miles from the
Sciota river, and consists of a few houses, where there
are some salt works carried on from a neighbouring lick.
These licks, of which there are a great number all over this
western country, are nothing but salt springs, but have
this peculiar circumstance attending them (from whence
they derive their name) that the ground in their neigh-
bourhood is licked up for a considerable distance by the
deer, buffalo, and other wild animals, who frequent them
at certain seasons of the year ; and in such astonishing
quantities, that a lick is easily found out by the road
which is made by the frequent passing and repassing of
these animals. Nay, Imlay says (page 323) that so great
is the number of buffaloes and other animals that resort
to these licks, that it fills the traveller with amazement
and terror ; especially when he beholds the prodigious
roads they have made from all quarters, as if leading to
some populous city. The vast space of land around these
springs is desolated as if by a ravaging enemy, and hills
reduced to plains ; for the land near these springs is
generally hilly. At half-past nine we came to Graham's
station, on the Kentucky shore (eight miles) ; it may
contain about twenty houses ; and at ten we came to an
island, to the north of which the Little Sciota comes in
(two miles). About twelve we came-to, on account of the

o

/

194 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

wind ; went a shooting on the shore ; saw plenty of deer
and turkeys, but had no sport. We were now got into
the neighbourhood of a settled country, and the wild
animals were all very shy.

Sunday/, February 2Qtli, 1797. — About six o'clock this
morning we started, and in about half an hour came to
two islands close to each other, and about half-past nine
came to Limestone (nineteen miles from Little Sciota).
Limestone is called the landing place to Kentucky ; and
is generally made the resort of all the emigrants who are
bound to the interior of this state. Here they land
their goods and their domestic implements, whether of
husbandry or of the household, and transport them to
their distant settlement, in waggons which they either bring
with them, or hire at this place. It may contain from
thirty to forty houses, situated on the western side of the
mouth of a creek, and at the bottom of a hill. There is a
place about a mile above (which we passed by) called the
upper landing. This was a settlement formed prior to
that of the town, and was meant for its site. Here a
number of boats stop to unload, owing to there being con-
venient warehouses and cranes ; but it has greatly fallen
to decay lately. Limestone appeared to us a very dirty
place when we came to it ; the houses are chiefly log-
houses, and presented a much more pleasing prospect on
our approach from the water than when close to it. Pro-
visions of every kind were very dear when we were there,
owing to the number of boats lately come down.

This may be said to be the first settlement in Ken-
tucky, or rather the first place where the country begins
to assume a settled appearance ; and from this place, as
far down as Louisville, at the falls, which is 203 miles, the

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 195

whole southern bank of the Ohio assumes a civilised
appearance, and, from the agreeable mixture of woods and
plantations, forms a number of most enchanting views.

We did not stop at Limestone above three or four
hours, but, wisliing to pursue our journey, we pushed off
from the shore about one, and after going about twenty
miles, were obliged to put-to again on account of the
wind.

Mo?iday, February 11th. — "We started again, at six
o'clock, and about half-past three we came to Columbia,
our long-wished-for port, having, through unforeseen
difficulties and unavoidable delays, been six months on
our journey.

We put our boat into the mouth of the Little Miami
river ; and my friend H. having some business to do with
a gentleman in the town, whose house was about a mile
off, he took the canoe and went down to him this after-
noon, and did not return till quite late. H. had pur-
chased, in company with two other gentlemen of this
place, about thirty or forty thousand acres of land on the
banks of the Little Miami, and about forty miles up that
river ; and he was now going to form a plantation on that
land, and to encourage settlers to do the same. He was
down here about a twelvemonth ago, and then made the
contract. He gave Judge Symms \\ dollars per acre for
it, payable by instalments, the first half to be paid when
the deeds were delivered, and the rest at different in-
stalments, as can be agreed upon by the parties. This is
the general method of buying these kinds of uncultivated
lands. H. had planned out a town which he meant to
lay out, as soon as he arrived on the spot. One of his
coadjutors had got the ground surveyed before ; and

0 2

196 JOUENAL OF A TOUR.

there were a number of settlers going along with him to
assist him. He informed me that nearly half of his land
was sold, and great part of it settled ; the price he asked
for it was two dollars per acre ; but it will increase in
value as the settlements increase. The lots in the town
which he had laid out were six dollars. They consist of
half an acre of ground, and you are obliged to build a
house within a certain time.

In order to found a colony at first, he holds out an
encouragement to settlers by giving them a town lot and
four acres of ground for nothing, except on condition that
they shall build a bouse on the town lot, and cultivate the
ground. This he does only to the first twelve or twenty
that may offer themselves, and after the place is once
settled it increases very fast ; for it must be observed
that it is not so much the present advantage which land
speculators look to, as the rise which is almost sure to
take place in consequence of an increase of settlements ;
and in order to manage this concern to the best ad-
vantage, the landholders will always take care and not
sell all their lands contiguous to each other, but only at
certain distances, so that the whole face of it may be
cultivated, and the intermediate uncultivated parts con-
sequently rise in value.

Tuesday, February 28th, 1797. — This morning we
dropped down the river about half a mile to a convenient
landing, and here we had a much better view of the town
than we had where we lay last night. The houses lie very
scattered along the bottom of a hill which is about one-
eighth of a mile from the river. The town is laid out on
a regular plan, but it was never in a very flourishing state ;
the neighbouring and well-settled country round and at

jol:rnal of a tour, 197

Cincinnati, prevents it from being a place of any great
importance; besides it lies very low, and is often overflowed
from the river, which prevents any houses being built
immediately on the banks, as is customary in these new
settlements. One quarter of the land on which the town
was intended to be laid out is now under water. Colonel
Symms, one of the judges of this territory ^^' contracted
with Congress for a million acres of land lying between
the two Miamis, upon certain conditions ; and several
thousand acres of that contract have been made over
to him, and he is now arranging with Congress the sti-
pulations of the rest. It was he who first settled this
tract of country, which is bounded on each side by the
two Miamis, and which a few years back was the resort
of Indians and wild beasts ; but now can boast several
large towns and well-cultivated settlements.

After breakfast we went ashore to view the town, and
H. introduced me to Mr. Smith and Dr. Bean. The former
gentleman is a man of very good property, which he
has acquired in several difierent ways in this place : he is
a farmer, a merchant, and a parson ; all these occupa-
tions, though seemingly so different, he carries on with the
greatest regularity and without confusion. The latter is
a man of good education, and practises physic here, some-
what in the same manner as our country apothecaries in
England do, for which he is dubbed Doctor. As these
gentlemen rank with the first in the place, a description of
their habitations, manners, and society, will serve without
any great variation, for that of the bulk of emigrants in
a similar state of life.

* Brother-in-law to Mr. Jay, who was ambassador to England.

198 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

As Dr. Bean would insist upon our sleeping at his
house, and in fact stopping with him altogether during
our residence here, we accompanied him home. His
house was built of logs, as all the houses in these new
settlements are, and consisted of a ground floor con-
taining two rooms, one of which was appropriated to
lumber : the other served all the purposes of parlour,
bedroom, shop, and everything else ; (though there was
a little outhouse, where thej occasionally cooked their
victuals, and also washed) ; and it did not appear as if
it had been cleaned out this half-year. There were two
windows to throw light into the room ; but there had
been so many of the panes of glass broken, whose places
were supplied by old hats and pieces of paper, that it
was very little benefited by the kind intention of the
architect. I saw a few phials and gallipots on a shelf
in one corner of the room, and near them a few books
of different descriptions ; and this I believe comprised
all the medicine and knowledge he was possessed of.
It seemed to me very strange that one who appeared
to be a man of information should not take more pains
about his habitation, and endeavour to render things
about him more comfortable, particularly as it might be
so easily done ; but such is the force of example, that
very few of the emigrants who come into this kind of
half-savage half-civilized state of life, however neat and
cleanly they might have been before, can have resolution
to prevent themselves from falling into that slovenly prac-
tice which everywhere surrounds them ; and it is not till
the first class of settlers are moved off, that any of these
new countries are at all desirable to a person brought up
in different habits of life.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 199

At dinner time I observed a table prepared in the
middle of the room, with some knives and forks and
pewter plates placed on it, but without any tablecloth ;
and Avhen the dinner was ready, two of his servants who
were working out in the fields were called in, and sat
down at the same table and partook of the same pro-
visions as ourselves ; and I observed that they did not
seem to treat their master or any of his company with
any degree of reserve, but behaved as if they were with
his equals, though without behaving at all improperly, or
stepping beyond thef bounds which this state of society
has prescribed : they were conscious of the independence
they enjoyed, and did not seem to wish to bo deprived of
it themselves, or to take upon themselves any unneces-
sary airs in consequence thereof. Our provisions con-
sisted of some stewed pork and some beef, together with
some wild sort of vegetable, which had been gathered out
in the woods : as it must be observed that in all these
new settlements, fresh provisions, both in meat and
vegetables, are at some seasons very scarce, particularly at
the time we were there. The inhabitants live a great
deal upon deer and turkeys, which they shoot wild in
the woods, and upon bacon, which they keep by them in
case of need ; and as to vegetables, they are seldom to be
procured except in summer. The bread which is made
here is chiefly of Indian meal ; it is a coarse kind of fare,
but after a little use becomes not at all unpleasant.

When the time drew nigh for us to retire to rest, we
were shown to one corner of the room where there was
a ladder, up which we mounted into a dismal kind of
a place without a window ; but instead thereof, there
were a number of crevices between the logs, which had

200 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

never been filled up ; and in the room there were three
beds, or rather, three bedsteads, with a few blankets
thrown over them : for as to beds, consisting of sheets,
quilts, &c., it is a thing quite unknown here ; at least so
seldom to be met with, that it is remarked as a great
luxury. I could not but smile at the appearance of this
hole, which they called a bedroom. However, as I was
aware that I had a great deal of this rough kind of
living to go through ere I returned to New York, I was
resolved in every situation to make myself as happy and
as comfortable as I could ; accordingly, I pulled off my
coat, and throwing myself down upon the bedstead,
wrapped myself up in the blankets ; and my companion
having done the same, we put the candle out, and endea-
voured to compose ourselves to sleep ; but the wind blew
so strong, and there were so many holes in the room, that
v;e were incommoded by a continual current of air the
whole night. However, we got up and stopped a few of
the largest of them in the best manner we could, and then
slept very soundly till morning. We easily discovered
when it was daylight ; for, though there were no windows
in the room, there was not a corner that did not give us
a token of the sun's having peeped above the horizon,
and showed us in strong colours the miserable habitation
in which we were lodged. As the morning advanced we
had the opportunity of observing every crevice and corner
of this filthy garret. I could not help smiling as I lay
abed at the miserable hole I had got into. However,
awakening from my reverie, I started up and crept out of
the place, and walked out to enjoy the morning sun, and
a mild atmosphere ; a contrast too great not to pass
unnoticed. I went to breakfast with Mr. Smith, and here

JOUFtNAL OF A TOUR. 201

I found things a little more in order, though far from
that degree of refinement and comfort to be met with in
the more civilized parts of this country. This house bore
the marks of industry and cleanliness, and we were re-
galed with tea and coffee and a boiled chicken for our
breakfast, attended with buck-wheat cakes, which are
common in this part of the country. I. have observed
that this gentleman supported the characters of a mer-
chant, a farmer, and a parson : the gravity of his coun-
tenance seemed to indicate the latter, and it is a thing
not very uncommon to be met with. For, in these half-
settled countries there is no regular religious society, but
some one amongst the rest, either remarkable for his powers
of orator}^, or a well-spent life, takes upon him the office
of minister ; and, as occasion serves, goes a short dis-
tance into the country, where the inhabitants meet at each
other's houses. The farm of this gentleman consists of
several acres of land adjoining his house, which he keeps
in high cultivation ; chiefly meadow-ground, and from
which he has realized a great deal of money. His ware-
house was near the water-side. It consisted of but one
room, where he brings down the river such articles of
European manufactory as are most in demand. There are
but two or three other stores of the same kind in Colum-
bia. The profits of this trade are generally 100 percent.,
and sufficiently compensate the trader for the trouble of a
journey once or twice a year to Philadelphia.

The inhabitants of this place depend chiefly on their
own land for the necessaries of life : they raise corn and
cattle sufficient generally for their household. Those
articles which I had an opportunity of inquiring the
price of were:— flour at 8 dollars per barrel; whiskey,

202 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

1 dollar per gallon ; Indian meal, J dollar per bushel ;
potatoes, 1 dollar per bushel ; bacon, -J- dollar per lb. ;
the hire of labourers, -^ dollar per day, and their board
found them. Some of these prices were rather high,
owing to the river having been so long stopped up ; and
it must be observed, that the people situated on the banks
of the Ohio depend very much upon the boats which,
coming from the upper and more settled parts of the
country, bring with them many articles of use and
luxury. Some lots in Columbia sold lately for thirty
dollars. We did not stay here longer than we could
help ; for H, wished to be starting for his settlement, as
a number of settlers had met him here, and wanted to go
with him, in order to get their plantations ready against
the summer. Accordingly, as soon as he had housed his
goods and sold his boat, he hired two waggons to take up
such household goods and implements of husbandry as he
might be in immediate want of. The place where the
town was laid out was between forty and fifty miles off,
and lay for the most part amidst a desert wilderness,
where no waggon had ever approached; in fact, where
none but Indians and hunters had ever frequented. I
cannot but say that this opportunity of exploring an
unknown country, and of being one amongst the first to
found a new colony in an uninhabited place, and to be
witness to the first essays of a rising people, gave me a
secret pleasure and satisfaction ; and I was amongst the
most forward to get myself ready upon such an occasion.
We had agreed that the waggons should precede us a
couple of days ; and then we should be able to overtake
them nearly at the end of their journey, and assist them
if there were any need. Accordingly, —

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 203

Saturday, March ^th, 1797, — the two waggons started,
accompanied with a guide to conduct them through the
wilderness, and three or four pioneers to clear the road
of trees where there might be occasion ; and on

Monday, March Qth,—J)v. Bean and myself started
about noon, accompanied by several others in the neigh-
bourhood ; some of whom were tempted by curiosity, and
others with a prospect of settling there. We were
mounted on horses, and had each a gun ; and across our
saddles we had slung a large bag, containing some corn
for our horses, and provision for ourselves, as also our
blankets : the former was necessary, as the grass had not
yet made its appearance in the woods. We kept the road
as long as we could ; and when that would not assist us
any farther, we struck out into the woods ; and towards
sundown found ourselves about twenty miles from
Columbia. Here, having spied a little brook running at
the bottom of a hill, we made a halt, and kindling a fire,
we fixed up our blankets into the form of a tent, and
having fed both ourselves and our horses, we laid our-
selves down to rest ; one of us, by turns, keeping watch,
lest the Indians should come and steal our horses. The
next morning, —

Tuesday, March ^th, — as soon as it was light, we con-
tinued our journey, and towards the middle of the day
overtook our friend H., almost worn out with fatigue.
The ground was so moist and swampy, and he had been
obliged to come through such almost impassable ways,
that it was with difiiculty the horses could proceed ; they
were almost knocked up ; his waggons had been over-
turned twice or thrice ; — in fact, he related to us such a
dismal story of the trials both of patience and of mind

204 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

which he had undergone, that I verilj believe if the dis-
tance had been much greater, he would either have sunk
under it, or have formed his settlement on the spot. We
encouraged him with the prospect of a speedy termina-
tion, and the hopes of better ground to pass over ; and
with this his spirits seemed to be somewhat raised. We
all encamped together this night, and made ourselves as
happy and as comfortable as possible. My friend H.
seemed also to put on the new man ; and from this, and
from his being naturally of a lively turn, we found that it
was a great deal the want of society which had rendered
him so desponding, and so out of spirits ; for after we
had cooked what little refreshment we had brought with
us, and finished our repast, he sang us two or three good
songs, (which he was capable of doing in a masterly
style,) and seemed to take a pleasure in delaying as long
as he could that time which we ought to have devoted
to rest. As to my own part, I regarded the whole enter-
prise in a more philosophic point of view ; and I may say
with the Spectator, I considered m.yself as a silent ob-
server of all that passed before me ; and could not but
fancy that I saw in this little society before me the
counterpart of the primitive ages, when men used to
wander about in the woods with all their substance, in
the manner that the present race of Tartars do at this
day. I could not but think that I saw in miniature the
peregrinations of Abraham, or ^neas, &c., &c.

The next morning, Wednesdai/, March 8th, by day-
light, our cavalcade was in motion ; and some of the
party rode on first to discover the spot, for we were tra-
velling without any other guide than what little know-
ledge of the country the men had acquired by hunting

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 205

over it. I could not but with pleasure behold with
what expedition the pioneers in front cleared the way for
the waggon : there were but three or four of them^ and
they got the road clear as fast as the waggon could pro-
ceed. Whilst we were continuing on at this rate, we
observed at some distance before us, a human being dart
into the woods, and endeavour to flee from us. Ignorant
what this might mean, we delayed the waggons, and some
of us went into the woods and tracked the footsteps of a
man for some little distance, when suddenly a negro
made his appearance from behind some bushes, and
hastily inquired whether there were any Indians in our
party, or whether we had met with any. The hideous-
ness of the man's countenance, (which was painted with
large red spots upon a black ground,) and his sudden
appearance, startled us at first ; but soon guessing his
situation, we put him beyond all apprehension, and in-
formed him he was perfectly safe.

He then began to inform us that he had been a prisoner
amongst the Indians ever since the close of the last Ame-
rican war ; and that he had meditated his escape ever
since he had been in their hands, but that never, till now,
had he been able to accomplish it. He asked us what
course the nearest town lay from us ; and after telling
him, he said that the Indians no doubt were pursuing
him ever since they had missed him, and that he intended
to escape to the first town for protection. He said that
they had used him remarkably well ever since he had been
with them, treating him as one of their own children, and
doing everything in their power to render his situation
comfortable. They had given a wife, a mother* and

* It is their usual practice to put white people (whom they

206 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

plenty of land to cultivate if he chose it, and the liberty
of doing everything but making his escape. With all these
inducements, he said he could not give up the idea of
never seeing again those friends and relations whom he
left in his early days. This man, when he was taken
prisoner, was a slave to a person in Kentucky ; and
though amongst the Indians he enjoyed liberty and all
the comforts which can be expected in a state of nature,
and which were more (I may safely pronounce) than
when he tasted of the bitter cup of slavery, yet was
this man, who so lately enjoyed all these blessings of
Heaven, going to render himself up a voluntary slave to
his former master. For what 1 That he might there
once more embrace those friends and relations from
whom he had been so long separated.

We could not but look upon the man with an eye of
pity and compassion, and after giving him something to
pursue his journey with, and desiring him to follow our
track to Columbia, we separated. At about three or four
o'clock the same afternoon, we had the satisfaction of
seeing the Little Miami river. Here we halted, (for it
was on the banks of* this river that the town was laid
out,) and we were soon joined by our other companions,
who had proceeded on first, and who informed us that
they had recognised the spot about half a mile higher
up the river. We accordingly went on, and got the goods
all out of the waggons that night, so that they might
return again as soon as they thought proper. And
here we could not but congratulate our friend H. upon
his arrival at the seat of his new colony. He appeared

wish to encourage to come among them) under the protection of
some matron, who is called his mother.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 207

heartily glad that his journey was at an end, and he
seemed to eye the ground and the country about, with
that degree of secret pleasure which a man may be con-
ceived to take in viewing a spot which, in point of cul-
tivation, was to be the work of his own hand. He seemed
to anticipate his labours, and fancied he saw fruitful
cornfields and blushing orchards in every object he be-
held, and expressed a secret satisfaction in thinking he
should end his days in this delightful country.

The next morning nothing was to be heard but the
noise of the axe resounding through the woods. Every
one who was expert at that art was gone out to cut down
trees to build our friend a house, and before night they
had got several of the logs laid and the house raised
several feet. They all joined cheerfully at this work,
but then it was expected that our friend should not deny
them the use of the whiskey barrel in the meanwhile,
which makes it come as expensive as if you were to hire
so many men to do it for you ; and all this boasted friend-
ship which is shown upon such occasions, is (as Roche-
foucault expresses it) mere barter; for it is expected that
you will do the same in your turn for any one of them
when he is in need. They are obliged to have recourse
to these mutual aids and assistances, as they cannot pro-
cure sufficient labourers without. It is, therefore, a virtue
arising from necessity.

Whilst the major part were engaged in this necessary
employment, Dr. Bean and myself and two of the men
took our guns and a couple of axes, and went a bear-
hunting. We had discovered marks of several in coming
along, and we were now going to see if we could not
shoot some of them, in order to furnish ourselves with

208 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

provisions. The method of taking them at this season
of the year is this. It is well known that at the approach
of winter the bears climb up to the top of some loftj
tree which is hollow at top, and creeping backwards into
the hole, sit there upon their hinder parts till spring,
without any other sustenance than what they procure
from sucking their paws. It is easily discoverable whe-
ther any tree has these holes in it ; and it may also
be easily ascertained whether there is reason to think
there is a bear in it or not ; for in climbing up the trees
they scratch off the bark in such a manner, as to leave
an indelible track through the whole winter. When,
therefore, the hunters have found one of the trees in
which they imagine a bear to be lodged, they set about
cutting it down, which those who are used to it will ^^r^
soon do ; and three or four of the party with loaded rifles
will plant themselves at a little distance off, and in the
direction where they expect the tree to fall. As soon
as the tree comes to the ground, hrum starts from his
hiding place, and endeavours to flee into the woods; but
the person who stands nearest to the course which he is
going to pursue immediately aims his piece, and most
probably kills him ; however, if he should only wound
him, the bear will generally turn upon his attacker, and
in this case the others come to his assistance, and put an
end to the contest by shooting him through the head.

This being a new species of diversion to me, I embraced
with pleasure the opportunity of going with them to enjoy
it. We had not proceeded far in the woods, ere we
discovered a hole in the top of a lofty oak, whose diameter
was upwards of three feet at the bottom, and its height
near 150 feet. These immense trees are generally those

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 209

which the bears fly to : in fact, no others of a smaller
size could contain them at the height of sixty or seventy
feet from the ground. We saw evident traces of his
claws impressed on the bark of the tree, and it was soon
resolved that the tree was to come down. Accordingly
our two men set at it, and when they had nearly got
through it, we took our appointed stations to watch the
egress of this tyrant of the woods. In a short time the
immense trunk began to give way, and, carrying all the
lesser trees before it, .fell with a tremendous crash upon
the ground. Bruin, finding his habitation in motion,
began to look out before it reached the ground, and with
a sudden spring arrived there first. Immediately Dr.
Bean levelled his piece, and shot him through the body,
but only so as to wound him, and the bear began to
turn upon him ; when, at a lucky moment, a limb of the
tree fell upon the stump of his tail, and left him strug-
gling to get free. This afforded me time to come round to
Dr. Bean's assistance, when I shot the poor animal through
the head, and put a period to his existence. After that we
left him to the men to carry to our camp, whilst we went
to discover the haunts of some others; and in this expe-
dition we killed two or three deer, and saw great quan-
tities of wild turkeys ; so that we had not any prospect of
extreme want whilst we were here. After this we re-
turned home, and received the thanks of our party for
supplying them so sumptuously with provisions.

This diversion I pursued as often as the weather favoured,
almost every .day I was here. Sometimes I would wander
out by myself for several miles in the country, and not
return again till the setting sun would close the day. I
had by this time acquired the hahit of wandering out in

p

210 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

the woods, and imperceptibly preserving the course in my
own mind, without any fear of mistaking my way. A
habit it certainly is, for it can only be acquired by fre-
quent and constant practice. And in this respect an
Indian is far superior to any surveyor : for here the tri-
gonometrical principles of the latter would be of no
service to him unless he could clear the way before him;
and without this aid, the former will conduct you from
any one part of the country to another with an astonish-
ing degree of exactness, even if he had never been over
the ground before, in the same manner that an old inha-
bitant will go through all the little streets and intricate
windings of a large and populous city without any fear of
being lost or misled.

In these excursions I had opportunities of observing
the quality and situation of the land which my friend had
purchased; and as that tract of country which lies be-
tween the two Miamis is nearly equal in point of fertility,
&c., through its whole extent, perhaps a description of
this will serve for a description of the whole. It must
be observed also, that this tract of country lying between
the two Miamis is the only properly settled country on
the north side of the Ohio; for though there are a few
scattered plantations along the banks of the Ohio, and on
some of the rivers which run into it, yet they are too
widely diffused to assume any corporate form, or to vie
with each other in a spirit of industry and civilization.
This little Mesopotamia, then, may be said to be the
principal attracting point of the whole north-western
territory ; and it is a place where, above all others, I should
fix my residence, if I were at all disposed to emigrate to
this western country.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 211

This tract of land, I have already remarked, was first
settled bj Colonel Sjmms. The settlements first began <
upon the Ohio, at a place called Cincinnati, about six ^
miles below Columbia; this is now a large and populous /
town, as I shall have occasion by and by to mention.
They then spread themselves to the right and left, along
the banks of the Ohio, and afterwards they began to in-
crease, and advance higher up the country, still keeping
principally upon the banks of the two rivers; and my
friend H. had bought some land quite on the frontiers of /la
the settlements, though^ since he had purchased, others
had still advanced beyond him ; and in a few years I
have no doubt but that the whole country will be settled.
The whole country is laid out in lots of six miles square,
which are called townships, and these lots are subdivided
again into thirty-six lots of one mile square each ; and
in Colonel Symms' contract with Congress, the latter has
reserved a right to five lots (each one mile square) in
every township, and also to some whole townships, to be at
its own disposal at any future time. The same policy
dictated this to the nation which influences individuals
in the sale of their lands; for it will be observed, that
these reserved uncultivated lots of the United States, will
be continually rising in value by the improved state of
the surrounding cultivated ones, and that without any
detriment to the proprietors of the other lots. This is
accumulating an interest in landed property at very little
expense, and at some future time they may be of some
essential service to the community at large ; for they are
reserved for the ostensible purpose of endowing schools or
other institutions of public utility and advantage.

But to come to the description of the country. In our

p 2

212 JOURXAL OF A TOUR.

route from Columbia to this place we passed over an ex-
cellent tract of land, which was in general too rich for
wheat ; and in many places (particularly on the banks of
any stream of water) it partook of the nature of the finest
garden mould, and appeared as black as on the immediate
borders of a coal mine. This is what is called in this
country " first-rate land." The upper parts were of a
kind somewhat inferior, but still preserving the title of
" first-rate," and seemed more adapted than the lower lands
for the production of wheat and other grain. I saw very
little which came under the denomination of "second-rate
land," which is rather a disadvantage in this part, where
the land is of such an excellent quality, as a spot of a
lower rate would be useful on many occasions. The face
of the country is agreeably interspersed with hill and dale.
The general appearance and description of it is as fol-
lows : —

Immediately on the banks of the river there is a fine rich
bottom containing abundance of grass and very few trees ;
for the soil is of so excellent a quality as to be unfit for
the growth of any large plants, and it is for this reason
that no underwood or bushes grow in these bottoms ; so
that the general appearance, in a state of nature, is not
unlike that of a rich orchard, if you could but fancy the
trees to bear fruit. This level tract is of different widths,
and varies from a few feet to as many miles, and is ter-
minated by the river on one side, and on the other by
the high country, or what is here called the " second
bank ;" and this second bank subsides into a plain
country, except where it is excavated by any running
stream attempting to disgorge itself into the river, or by
any accidental rising or declivity in the ground itself.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 213

This is an observation which may serve generally for the
whole face of this western country, and is what I re-
marked before. These second banks are emphatically
called the " uplands," and the others are styled ""' the
" bottoms."

It will easily appear that the uplands nearly in the
centre, between the two rivers, must be more level than
the same uplands immediately at their termination on the
bottoms. Those little streams which rise in the high
country between the rivers flow for some distance ere
they form any deep cavities in the ground ; but as they
approach the river, and begin to be carried off the up-
lands, they form deep channels for themselves, and divide
the country into ridges. I have often remarked this
when I have been out a hunting, and passed the line
which appeared to bound the rising of these streams,
i. e. that spot where the streams arising from nearly the
same place, and taking different directions, the one would
flow into the Great Miami, on the westward, and the
other into the Little Miami, on the eastward. Here the
face of the country was rich and level, and abounding
with plenty of water ; but on following any of these
streams either way, it became to assume a more uneven
appearance, and to afford a more agreeable diversity
arising from that inequality. I have sometimes come
upon these streams which have formed a cavity in the
ground of fifty, sixty, or seventy feet deep, with banks
almost perpendicular ; and when I have descended to the
bottom, in order to mount the other side, the stream has
been so narrow and shallow that I could cross it with ease,

* These bottoms are often liable to be partially overflowed in
rainy seasons.

214 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

SO that a little brook will form an almost impenetrable
barrier between two adjoining tracts of country.

The natural productions of this country, in these fer-
tile parts, are nearly the same as land of equal quality
generally does produce. The woods all over this western
country produce a variety of spontaneous kinds of grass,
some of which grows three or four feet high, and affords
nourishment for the cattle, which the settlers let loose to
graze thereon. They also abound in a variety of natural
flowers and herbs, which at the approach of spring regale
both the eye and. the sense of smelling with the most
agreeable diversity and profusion. There are also to be
found a number of wild fruit-trees, such as gooseberry,
plum, cherry, grape, apple, and many others. But the
chief beauty in this way to the settler is the variety
and size of the timber, which is plentifully scattered over
the country, and consists of oak, maple, beech, button- wood,
dog-wood, buck-eye, walnut, hiccory, and many others,
which are only to be found in the first-rate uplands and
bottom lands. I have seen oak-trees, and those not uncom-
mon, which measured near four feet diameter at the bottom,
and which had a straight trunk unthoid a single branch
for seventy feet ; and from that part to the termination of
the upper branch it has measured seventy more ; and these
immense trees I have seen cut down for the sole purpose
of making a few shingles from them to cover a house
with ; and even for the sake of killing a poor bear who
had taken refuge therein against the inclemency of the
weather; and even for less than that : I have often seen
them set on fire merely to dislodge a paltry raccoon !

Having given a general description of the face of this
part of the country, and seen that it is excellently

JOURJ^AL OF A TOUR. 215

adapted for all the purposes of the farmer, both as being
well suited for the productions of nature, and for an easy
method of conveyance to other parts, thereby affording a
mean of disposing of those productions, I shall now attempt
to give you an idea of the little town which my friend has
laid out here. Its situation is on the brow of the second
bank, which at this place is not many feet from the edge
of the river, which flows with a gentle current, and in
a beautiful meandering course, at the foot of the town.
The second bank is here formed like a semicircle, the pro-
jecting part of which faces the river, which preserves a
similar course. In the front of this spot he has fixed his
own habitation ; and he intends throwing several of the
"front lots into gardens, so that the view of the river
may not be obstructed from the houses in the rear. The
opposite shore consists of a beautiful rich bottom, extend-
ing a great way into the country.

The town* he had laid out at right angles, nearly on
Penn's plan, with a square in the middle, which he told
me, with a degree of exulting pride, he intended for a
court-house, or for some public building for the meeting
of the legislature ; fo r he has already fallen into that
flattering idea which every founder of a new settlement
entertains, that his town will at some future time be the
seat of government. He also described to me, and walked
over, the ground where he intended to make his gardens,
his summerhouse, his fishpond, his orchard, &c. ; and,
anticipating a few years, showed me where there was to be
a serpentine walk, then a seat, then a shady bower ; and,
in the heat of his imagination, I believe he was as happy
as if he saw them all before him. Whereas, for myself,

* It is to be called Wayiiesville, in honour of General Wayne.

216 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

not being so interested in it, I could behold nothing but a
wild uncultivated country, full of lofty trees and prickly
shrubs ; and when he showed me his fishponds and his
serpentine walks, I could only discover a little standing
water, and a few deertracks.

After being here a few days, I observed this wilderness
begin to assume a very different appearance ; for, after
having built my friend a house, the settlers had set about
their own plantations, and in a short time I saw quite
a little town rise from the desert ; and in several places
gardens were actually laid out, and the walks formed. I
could not but be pleased at this early fruit of their in-
dustry, and seemed to have a secret inclination to stay and
cultivate the ground with them. I wished very much to
anticipate a few years, and take a prospective of the
future prosperity of this little colony, — when promiscuous
society and uncouth habits had given way to more refined
and polished manners ; and when the first class of settlers
had moved off, and a more civilised race had succeeded.
Then to have sat down upon the bench at the evening
sun, and told one's children how we raised this flourish-
ing settlement from the howling wilderness ; and to have
run through the different scenes and difficulties which we
encountered in endeavouring to accomplish our end ; and
still to have looked forward to a more remote period,
when this work of our hand might become renowned
either for its splendour, or for the proAvess of its inha-
bitants ; — I say, to have dwelt upon these points, would
have afforded the mind the highest satisfaction and plea-
sure, and would sufficiently have compensated for those
other diflSculties we met with in the first process of our
undertaking.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 217

Friday, March ZXst, 1797. — I had been now with my
friend near a month, during which time I had an oppor-
tunity of observing the steps which are taken in first
settling a country. It opened quite a new field to me, as
it must to every one who has never been witness to it.
It was also of service to me in another respect, that I
might ascertain with what difiiculties a person under-
taking an enterprise of this kind had to encounter ; and
whether it were an object worth pursuing, if a person
were disposed to turn farmer. It must be well under-
stood, that if a person who has bought a large tract of
uncultivated land wishes to enlist himself among the
first settlers on it, (in which he will certainly find his
advantage,) he must put up for some time with the loss
of an enlightened and refined society. He must expect
to meet a race of people rough in their manners, im-
patient of restraint, and of an independent spirit, who
are taught to look upon all men as their equals, and no
farther worthy of respect from them than their conduct
deserves. These men are tempted to come and settle
amongst you from the inducements you hold out to
them ; for the first settlers generally have their land
given them, on condition that they will cultivate it ;
and they are a race which delight much to live on the
frontiers, where they can enjoy undisturbed, and free
from the control of any laws, the blessings which nature
has bestowed upon them. As soon therefore as planta-
tions begin to multiply around them, and an increase of
inhabitants begins to deprive them of these blessings, they
sell their little possession, and witli the money arising
from it they stock themselves with clothes and other
necessaries, and move off" to cultivate some other part.

218 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

It is then that the second class comes on, who are gene-
rally of the same wandering disposition as the former,
but a little more refined in their manners, and sub-
mitting with a little more decorum to the authority of
laws, and demeaning themselves with a more becoming
behaviour to the society in general which surrounds them,
though still preserving that unconquerable principle of
independence and equality which is naturally attached
to Americans in general, but more particularly those
who inhabit these western countries. However, it is not
till the third class succeeds that you meet with any
kind of society that is at all desirable, and which you
meet with in the more settled parts of the Atlantic
states. Here it is that you may begin to look for the
true character of the people with whom you are to
reside, and from this you may begin to date your pros-
pect of an enlightened society. The rapidity with which
these different tribes move off depends upon the advances
which are made in the neighbouring settlement. In
some places it may not be many years ; in others, where
the progress of improvement is slow, they may reside for
a generation or two. So that this would be an induce-
ment to fix upon a spot to which a spirit of emigration
was tending, in order to get rid of these half savages as
soon as possible.

If any one, then, can put up with this loss of society for
a few years, and would wish to fix his residence amongst
the first inhabitants, he ought to choose out a spot where
he can fix a mill, as this is a thing indispensable in
a young country ; he ought to build both a grist-mill
and a saw-mill as soon as he has built himself a house ;
and for a few years he must expect to reside in a very

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 219

rough kind of mansion, as there will be too many things
of consequence to attend to, before he thinks about beauti-
fying his house, or in fact, of even building one which is
at all comfortable. He must be content with a log-house
for the first few years, consisting perhaps of only one
room (or two at the most) which must serve him for all
purposes. But when he has finished his saw-mill, and
has got things a little in order about him, he begins then
to think of erecting* himself a frame-house ; if the habit
of negligence and carelessness (which is too often the case)
has not taken too deep root, and rendered him indifferent
about the comforts and conveniences of life ; and dis-
posed him rather to spend the remainder of his life in
filth and disorder, than be at the trouble and expense of
providing himself with a cottage, which he might fit up
and beautify after his own taste and fancy.

When once a town is settled in this way, its rapidity
towards greater improvement and perfection is very great ;
and it is astonishing to observe the vast progress made in
the arts of cultivation and civilization all over this western
country ; and I have no doubt but that this town, at the
foundation of which I have just been witness, will at
some future period make a great figure in the history of
its country.

With respect to the laws which govern this part of the
country, it must be observed, that they are included in
the general code adopted for the administration of justice
in the north-west territory. The north-west territory is
all that tract of land which is bounded by the Ohio on
the south, the Mississippi on the west, the lakes on the

* A /rcmie-howse is one bnilt of smved wood : the timbers of
the log-houses ai'e only hewn.

220 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

north, and the western boundary line of Pennsylvania on
the east ; and at the close of the American war was ceded
to the United States by the state of Virginia, to whom it
originally belonged, as a mean of defraying the expenses
of the continental war. However, it must be observed,
that the Indian title to these lands is not Avholly extinct,
as they possess in full right and sovereignty all the lands
to the north-west of the Wabash river, and the country
immediately bordering upon Lake Erie, which lies between
that lake and the heads of the Miami, Sciota, and Musk-
ingham rivers ; and from the policy which the United
States are pursuing, there is every reason to expect that
the Indians will never more have reason to reproach the
white people with unjust encroachments on their territory.
Congress have found it to be much more beneficial and
advantageous to purchase what land they may want, than
to attempt to force it by the sword ; and they are pur-
suing a system of moderation and amicable treatment
towards them, which it is hoped will be followed with
beneficial consequences, and tend to eradicate the scourge
of war from their frontiers. The great cause of so many
quarrels with the Indians has been, that the latter have
always looked upon the attack of individuals as expres-
sive of the disposition of the whole nation ; and not
unfrequently have private quarrels been the cause of
shedding much blood. And it is worthy of remark, that
the most violent prejudices exist on both sides, between
the Indians and those white people who live on the
frontiers of the United States : so much so, that I have
heard them talk with the same unconcern of killing an
Indian, as of killing a deer or a turkey ; and with a
savage exultation they would mimic him in his dying

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 221

agonies ; and I would venture to pronounce that it
would be impossible to find a jury in the back parts of
America, who would bring any one in guilty of murder,
for causing the death of an Indian.

Having, as I observed before, been with my friend
here near a month, I began to think of leaving him, and
pursuing my journey down the river. It was ray inten-
tion to go down the Ohio and Mississippi to New Orleans,
a city in the Spanish dominions, in the province of
Louisiana, and near the Gulf of Mexico, and from thence
to return to New York by sea. A long voyage was now
before me ; and as I did not know what impediments or
delays I might meet with in the course of my journey, I
determined upon taking the early part of the spring, that
I might have the whole summer before me. Accordingly,
as H. was going to Columbia this morning (March Z\st,)
I determined upon accompanying him, and of bidding
adieu (perhaps for ever) to this little society, of which I
had seen the first rise, and to those habitations, which I had
observed, as it were, to spring from the ground. Furnish-
ing ourselves therefore with a little provisions, and mount-
ing our horses, about ten o'clock this morning we struck
into the woods, and made the best of our way towards the
town. We kept for the most part the road we had pursued
in coming here, except where we were induced to deviate,
in order to obtain a view of the country, or to avoid
many"^' bad places, which the late rains had caused. In

* And here we saw several of the remains of those fortifications
described in my journey to Grave Creek : many of them were not
larger than what might be supposed to sufiice for the protection of
a single family, and appeared from their situation to have been in-
tended for such. I could not help thinking that we were probably

222 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

this excursion I could not but observe the great difference
which nature presented to our view, from the appearance
which she wore in our journey hither. The spring had
been very late, and the iron bands of winter had scarcely
been broken; and though the weather was mild, nature
had not sufficient time to show herself in her liveliest
colours ; but now, every plant seemed to vie with others
in luxuriancy of dress and brilliancy of appearance ; the
earth had sent forth a thousand prisoners, who seemed
to animate the eye of the beholder at their escape from
the cruel hand of hoary -headed winter.

Those who are fond of a country life, and have a taste
for the beauties of nature exhibited in this early part of
her executions, cannot but feel the pleasure induced by
so animating and divine a display of her powers ; and to
attempt a description of them here would be depriving
her of all the merit to which she is so justly entitled.
We pursued our journey through this delightful country
as expeditiously as we could, in order that we might be
able to reach Columbia the second day. About one or
two o'clock, having come to a delightful spot surrounded
by lofty trees, (all of which were in full bloom,) and
furnished with a carpet which nature had decked with
her most luxuriant colours, through which ran a rivulet
as clear as the purest crystal, we agreed to halt ; and,
taking our bags from off our horses, we began to feed

riding over the ashes of a race of men more advanced in what is
called civilization than the present race of its inhabitants ; and
who, if they could peep from their graves, would probably wonder
at the wilderness to which the works of their hands had been
reduced by the destroying hand of Time ; and would probably shed
a tear to see their once-favoured spot the habitation of wild beasts,
and of men more savage than beasts.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 223

both ourselves and them with the provisions we had
taken with us, which we moistened with the water of
this gentle current. The sun shone beautifully bright,
and the atmosphere was without a cloud ; and, as our
horses required a little rest, we tied them to a tree
and wandered out in the woods, in order to enjoy this
sweet present of nature, wherein every step we took
afforded new beauties, and where we could have dwelt
for a long time with the highest satisfaction ; but our
resolution of a speedy journey induced us to give up
this pursuit, and, by returning once more to mount our
horses, to quit this delightful spot.

We got this night to a little settlement on the frontiers,
where we slept at the house of a very intelligent man,
and who was the founder of the place in which he lives :
his house is also facing the Little Miami river, which here
assumes a width far superior to what it does where my
friend's settlement is. He treated us very hospitably, and
wished us to stay with him longer ; but we proceeded
on our journey early in the morning, and before the
day was closed we reached Columbia, where we found
Dr. Bean expecting us. In this last day's journey we
came through several settlements, and everywhere round
about we found people busy in making sugar from the
maple-trees. When any one has formed a plantation,
he fixes upon a spot near his house which abounds with
these trees, and this place he calls the sugar grove ; and
here it is that his family is fully employed during the
latter winter and the early spring months in making
that useful article. A great smoke from the boiling
caldrons, and a confused murmur through the woods,
would indicate our approach to any of these industrious

224 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

spots; and as it was my business to remark upon what-
ever I saw before me, I could not help reflecting how
much more usefully and laudably employed these were,
who with so little trouble, and at the expense of neither
cruelty nor injustice, but in the midst of peace, inno-
cence, and happiness, were furnishing themselves with
the luxuries of life, than those who by cruelty, rapine,
and oppression, to the degradation of human nature,
were so oppositely pursuing the same ends. Methought
if mankind had ever been witness to the two different
scenes, they would require no other inducement to
countenance the one, and for ever discourage the other.
Go then, said I to myself, and proclaim to the world
the misery of the one and the happiness of the other ;
and happy shall I be, if even in a small circle I
can produce sufficient conviction to induce them to hold
up their hands against that bane of public virtue and
domestic happiness — The Slave Trade.

Being now returned to Columbia once more, I began
to think of getting my things ready, and to take advan-
tage of the first boat* that came down the river, that
meant to proceed to New Orleans. As they go a great
way through an uncultivated country, and as three or
four hands are necessary to navigate her in cases of
difficulty, the proprietors of them are happy in taking
any person with them that offers ; not only for the sake

* These boats are generally loaded with flour in the upper
countries of the Ohio ; and, as the navigation of that river is not
expensive, they put three or four hundred barrels into one boat,
and proceed with it down to New Orleans, where they generally
find a good market for it ; and, in fact, it is the only foreign one
they can have, on account of their inland situation.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 225

of company, but also to save them an expense, as they
must otherwise hire other people to go with her ; and
the only duty on your part that is required, is to assist
in case of need, which any person would willingly do,
because his own safety is concerned. Having, therefore,
got a few provisions together, consisting of biscuit, flour,
brandy, beef, bacon, &c., enough to last me a couple of
months, and having packed up a trunk or two of articles
for trading with the Indians, (as money with them is of
no service,) I waited with an anxious expectation the
arrival of a boat, and it was not long ere I was gratified,
for on

Monday, April 3rd, 1797,— an Orleans boat (as it
is here called) stopped at the town, and upon my
inquiring whether they could make room for me, they
seemed glad to receive me, and willingly accepted my
ofier of accompanying them. But as I wanted to get
some business done at Cincinnati, I proposed to go down
there first and wait their arrival, which was agreed upon.
Therefore, about five o'clock this afternoon I put all my
luggage into a little canoe, and, though the wind was high,
set ofl" down the river for the above-mentioned town, which
lay about six miles off; taking leave of my friend H.,
whom I heartily shook by the hand, and wished a long
life to see his new colony flourish and be happy. And
now behold me, near a thousand miles from New York,
from whence I set out, deprived of the only companion
and friend I had during this long journey, and with a
prospect of four or five thousand miles more, through
an uncultivated and desert wilderness, ignorant of the
persons with whom I was destined to embark, and with-
out a surety of a safe return. I felt all these ideas

Q

I

226 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

crowd into mj mind immediately before the moment of
my departure ; and, I believe, if I had dwelt long upon
them, I should have been induced to have directed my
course towards my own home once more, or to have
taken up my abode with my friend H. ; but I was
hurried on with the prospect of seeing new scenes, and
beholding nature in a state of which the mind can have
no imagination ; united also with a certain spirit of
enterprise which is the common lot of all men, and
which prevents the human faculties from remaining
supine and inactive, in whatever situation they are
placed. This is the best account I can give of my sub-
jecting myself to those inconveniences and difficulties,
and (in many cases) extreme dangers, to which I was
afterwards exposed.

I floated most pleasantly down this delightful current,
which now flowed at the rate of five or six miles an
hour, and in a short time reached my destined port.

There I put up at the , kept by one . I was

deceived into these quarters, as I took them for Yeat-
man's, which is by far the best tavern ; but, as I was a
short visitor, I did not think it worth while to change
them. After finishing my business here, and the boat
not being arrived, I walked out to examine the town,
and observe its situation, &c. I have taken occasion to
express my approbation of the American mode of laying
out their new towns, in a general way, in straight
lines ; but I think that oftentimes it is a sacrifice of
beauty to prejudice, particularly when they persevere
in making all their streets cross each other at right
angles, without any regard to the situation of the ground,
or the face of the surrounding country : whereas, these

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 227

ought certainly to be taken into the consideration, in
order that a town may unite both utility and beauty;
and, with a little attention to this, a town might still
preserve the straight line, and yet avoid that disgusting
appearance which many of the new towns in America
make. For it not unfrequently happens that a hill
opposes itself in the middle of a street, or that a rivulet
crosses it three or four times, thereby rendering its appear-
ance very disgusting, and its passage very inconvenient :
whereas^ if they would lix upon all the eminences upon
the site as so many central spots from which streets were
to proceed like rays from a centre, and make all the
minor streets subservient to these, and suitable to the other
irregularities of the ground, in the manner that the new
city of Washington is laid out, they might preserve an
uniformity, a cleanliness, and agreeable prospect through
the whole, which upon the other plan is oftentimes
entirely lost. From this digression, it should appear
that Cincinnati comes under the latter description: but
let it speak for itself.

Cincinnati is built on the bank of the river Ohio,
immediately opposite the mouth of Licking river. On
the eastern bank of the Licking is a settlement called
Newport, consisting of about fifty or sixty houses, mostly
frame-built ; and as the country opposite is otherwise very
well cultivated, it presents an agreeable prospect from the
town. About two or three hundred yards from the bor-
ders of the river, and preserving an unequal distance from
it, the second bank commences, which is about thirty or
forty feet high, and which subsides into a level country
at the top. The town, therefore, is built partly on the
bottom and partly on the second bank ; and the streets run

Q 2

228 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

towards the four cardinal points, crossing each other at
right angles, without any regard either to the direction of
the second bank, or to that of the river, which here
runs about west-south-west, and thereby cuts off the con-
nexion of several of the streets with each other, except
by a circuitous route. If they had made one of their
principal streets to face the river, and the other at the
brow of the second bank, this inconvenience might have
been avoided, and the whole town would have presented
a noble appearance from the river.

Cincinnati may contain about three or four hundred
houses, mostly frame-built. The inhabitants are chiefly
employed in some way of business, of which there is a
great deal here transacted, the town being (if I may so call
it) the metropolis of the north-western territory. This is
the grand depot for the stores which come down for the
forts established on the frontiers; and here is also the
seat of government for the territory, being the residence
of the attorney-general, judges, &c., appointed by the
president of the Untied States, for the administration of
justice. On the second bank there is a block fort with
two ravelins; and between the fort and the river, and
immediately upon the borders of the latter, is the arti-
ficer's yard, where a number of men are kept continually
employed in furnishing the array with mechanical neces-
saries, such as tubs, kegs, fire-arms, &c., &c. On the
second bank, not far from the fort, there are the re-
mains of an old fortification with some mounds not far
from it. It is of a circular form; and, by walking over
it, I found the mean diameter to be 312 paces, or 780
feet, which makes the circumference very near half a
mile. There are on the ramparts of it the stumps of

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 229

some oak-trees lately cut down, which measured two feet
eight inches diameter, at three feet from the ground.
The mounds, which were at but a short distance from it,
were of the same construction as those I have described
at Grave Creek.

At Yeatman's tavern I met with Mr Burnett, a gentle-
man whom I had known at Pittsburgh, and who had
reached this place before me; he was attending tlie
courts here, as it was his intention to follow the law
in this part of the country. He informed me that
Mr. Volney, the French philosopher, had just left this
place, and had pursued his journey through the wilder-
ness towards Detroit, situated on the river St. Lawrence,
between Lake St. Clair and Lake Erie; and that he was
traversing that part of the country to ascertain some
particulars relative to the winds. Mr. Burnett also
informed me that he intended to pursue nearly the
same route; namely, to proceed to the lakes, and to go
down through them and the river St. Lawrence, till he
came to Montreal or Quebec, and from thence to cross
over to Lake Champlain, and proceed down the North
River to New York. He asked me if I were willing to
accompany him; and at first I seemed to fall in with
his proposal, as I had here an opportunity of travelling
with an intelligent companion, and through an interest-
ing part of America. Here my eyes would have been
feasted with those immense bodies of fresh water, sur-
rounded on all sides with stately forests. Here I should
have seen that tremendous cataract of water, the
Falls of Niagara, whose waters, after running a course
of some thousand miles, and forming lakes, which, col-
lectively taken, amount to near seventy thousand square

230 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

miles are hurried with prodigious velocity, and a thun-
dering torrent, over a perpendicular precipice, one hun-
dred and forty-nine feet high. Mr. Ellicot, from whom I
learnt these particulars, and who had measured the Falls,
informed me, that for a mile about, the water descends
in a rapid of fifty-eight feet with astonishing violence;
and below the Falls, for near eight miles, it continues to
descend in another strong rapid. He also told me^ that
the elevation of Lake Erie above Lake Ontario was three
hundred feet. So grand a spectacle as this would have
been worth all the pains and trouble in getting to it,
and particularly when I add to it the beautiful scenery
of the North river, whose banks are so highly picturesque
and enchanting. But I had arranged all my affairs, and
had determined within myself to proceed to New Orleans,
where, if I missed one set of noble objects, I should
meet with another no less beautiful and interesting:
and I could, at least, have it to say that I had passed
over the small current of the Ohio, surrounded by a
highly fertile and romantic country, from its source to its
mouth; and then have followed it, after it had mixed its
gentle stream with the more majestic torrent of the Mis-
sissippi, besides travelling an immense tract of country,
where I should have an opportunity of seeing nature
in her true and most lovely colours. These considera-
tions induced me to reject the proposal, and to pur-
sue my original design ; and in a day or two I had
the i^leasure of seeing our boat arrive at the banks of
the river. I soon found that the cargo in the vessel was
owned by the two persons who conducted her, and who
were farmers in the upper, country, and had joined their
produce together, and were going upon their second ad-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 231

venture. This latter I was glad to find, as thereby they
would be better able to conduct the boat through the
dangerous navigation of the Mississippi. They appeared
to be very good sort of men, though not the most
refined of those I have seen frequent these waters.
However, as we cannot choose our lot in every situation
of life, but must often put up with what appears, at
first, a temporary inconvenience ; and as the accom-
modations in every other respect were pretty comforta-
ble; I put my things on board, and the weather being
favourable, we started from this place on —

Saturday, April 8th. — We had previously taken ano-
ther person on board who wished to proceed down the
river, so that in all there were four of us. The names of
our captains (if I may so call them) were Simpson and
Kerr. And in order to keep up the forms observed
aboard such vessels, we had each our station and office
appointed him, as soon as we were properly out to sea.
They very kindly favoured me : I say, kindly, because
in this country, and particularly in travelling, and more
particularly in this manner of travelling, there is no
distinction of persons ; but every one must put his labour-
ing hand to the oar, and keep his appointed watch if they
float by night. We deputed the office of cook (which, by
the by, was a very insignificant one, as our fare was not
very sumptuous) to the last comer, which he executed
very ably. There was nothing to be done during the
day, as we sufiered the boat to float according as the
stream carried her, which was at the rate of five or six
miles an hour ; the only attention required was to keep
a good look-out, as the sailors call it, and see that she did
not drift against the sides of the river, which (as the

232 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

banks were overflowed, and the stream continually draw-
ing towards the sides) it was not improbable she might
do ; and if no one observed it, might drive against the
trees and be dashed to pieces. However, as the weather
was remarkably fine, we all executed this office without
reluctance ; and if we saw her drifting towards either
side, a pull or two at the oars (if taken in time) would
set her right again : and our succession to this office was
changed every two hours. Our nightly watches were
divided into two, one of which sat up the preceding part
of the night, and was then succeeded by the other, who
watched in their turn. We thus adjusted the regulations
of our boat, and very amicably settled the disposition of
our diff"erent offices. And now, upon committing myself
once more upon the fair bosom of this beautiful river, I
could not but remark the different appearance it pre-
sented from what it did when I was last upon it. Its
banks were then hardly full, and the bare trees on the
shore opened a wide view into an inhospitable and desert
country ; but now its banks were for the most part over-
flowed, and the current seemed to swell in the middle.
The trees, too, were putting on a new coat, kindly given
them by the returning spring, and seemed at once to bid
defiance to our view, and to shut out the now enchanting
prospect from our sight. The stream, too, had increased
much in its rapidity, owing to the vast quantities of water
which were now (according to the accustomed period)
accumulating in the upper countries. Serenity of air
and mildness of atmosphere, had also taken place of the
chilly morn, and the boisterous tempest. Nature was
now arraying herself in her gayest and most attractive
colours, and seemed to promise us a speedy and a plea-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 233

sant journey. We put ashore this night (on account of
the appearance of the weather) about five miles above the
Great Miami, and next morning, —

Sunday, April 9 th, — we started by daylight. "We
had observed a canoe ahead of us the preceding day, and
for the sake of company wished we could have overtaken
it ; but as the person who was in it did not seem dis-
posed to stop for us, we soon lost sight of him, as he pro-
ceeded along much faster than we. However, this morning
we observed the same vessel behind us, and in a short
time it came alongside. It contained but one old man,
accompanied by his dog and his gun, and a few things
lying at the bottom of the canoe. We called to him to
come into our boat, which he accordingly did ; and after a
little conversation, our guest proved to be old Colonel
Boon, the first discoverer of the now flourishing state of
Kentucky. I was extremely happy in having an oppor-
tunity of conversing with the hero of so many adventures,
a relation of which is drawn up and published in Iralay's
Geography. Happening to have this account by me, I
read it over to him, and he confirmed all that was there
related of him. I could observe the old man's face
brighten up at the mention of any of those transactions
in which he had taken so active a part ; and upon my
adverting particularly to his adventure in August, 1778,
with the Indians at Boonsborough, (a considerable town,
so called from the remarkableness of the transaction, and
the fame of its founder,) where they, with most barefaced
deceit, endeavoured to take him and his men prisoners,
he entered upon the subject with all the minuteness
imaginable, and as descriptively as if it had recently liap-
pened. He then made us follow him in his narration, — how

234 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

he was taken prisoner bj the Indians, and carried a tour
round the lakes with them ; and the old man inter-
spersed his tale with many a pleasing anecdote and inte-
resting observation. He took (in truly an Indian style)
a drop of water, and on a board he marked out the whole
course of his travels ; and, though I showed him a map,
he continued on, after barely looking at it, and would
not be diverted from the one which he had formed with
his own finger. Upon asking him whether it did not
give him a secret satisfaction to behold a province (in the
discovery and settlement of which he held so conspicuous
part) rise from a desert wilderness, and at once to flourish
in arts and sciences and the conveniences of life, in all
the maturity of old age, he shook his head, and with a
significant frown, said they were got too proud ; and then
began to enter into the disadvantages of great improve-
ments of society. I easily conceived his meaning, and
soon found that he was one of that class of men who,
from nature and habit, was nearly allied in disposition
and manners to an Indian, and may be ranked under
those who form the first class of settlers in a country.
He said he had a great deal of land given him on
the first settlement of the country ; but that when so-
cieties began to form around him, he moved off", and
divided his lands among his relations, unwilling (as
he expressed himself) to live among men who were
shackled in their habits, and would not enjoy uncon-
trolled the free blessings which nature had bestowed
upon them. Since this time, he told me he had spent
his time a great deal on the frontiers ; and at this pre-
sent moment he said he was going to hunt for beavers
in some unfrequented corner of the woods, where undis-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 235

turbed he might pursue this amusement, and enjoy the
pleasures arising from a secluded and solitary life. He
said that last night when we missed him he had put
ashore in a little creek, on account of the weather, and
that after taking some refreshment, he threw his blanket
round him, and lying down in his canoe, fell asleep. I
was much pleased with the old man's conversation, as he
appeared to be one who had seen a great deal of the
world, though in its most uncultivated state ; neverthe-
less, being a man of strong natural parts, his observations
on the different objects which had passed before him
rendered the half hour he stopped with us very interest-
ing and amusing.

The afternoon being windy, we were obliged to put
ashore about a mile and a half below the mouth of the
Great Miami, and here we stayed till about eight o'clock in
the evening, when the weather being favourable and the
moon bright, we put to sea again, and continued to float
all night, and the next morning, —

Monday, April 10th, — about nine or ten o'clock, we
came to Port William, a settlement at the mouth of the
Kentucky river. This was a place I wished to see very
much, not that it contains anything very remarkable in
itself, but as being the spot where that river which
gives a name to one of the most flourishing states in
the Union loses itself in the fair bosom of the Ohio, after
running a course of 200 miles, and dividing the country by
its meandering and highly romantic course. By a person
who had lately descended it, I was confirmed in that ac-
count which Imlay gives of the remarkable curiosities of
its banks : — " The astonished eye (says that author, p. 322)
beholds almost everywhere 300 or 400 feet of a solid

236 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

perpendicular limestone rock, in some parts a fine white
marble, either curiously arched, pillared, or blocked up
into fine building stones. These precipices are like the
sides of a deep trench or canal, the land above being
level, except where creeks set in, and crowned with fine
groves of red cedar. It is only at particular places that
this river can be crossed, one of which is worthy of admi-
ration ; viz., a great road large enough for waggons made
by the buffalos, sloping with an easy descent from the top
to the bottom of a very large steep hill, at or near the
river above Leestown." These were curiosities which he
told me he was highly gratified in going to see; but at
the same time he said that it rendered the navigation of
the river (except at the time of high-water) very danger-
ous for boats, on account of the immense number of rocks
which were scattered in difi"erent parts; and in summer
time these rivers are almost completely drained. This re-
mark may serve for the whole state of Kentucky, for it lies
so high above the level of the ocean, that when the rains
do not keep up the constant waste which is caused by
the rapid streams of its rivers, a general drought becomes
prevalent through the country; and both springs and
rivers are deficient in this necessary article of life, which
is severely felt by the inhabitants in very dry seasons.

This spot is remarkable for having a tree at the mouth
of the river, on which James McBride, who first discovered
this part of the country, cut his name. He was proceed-
ing down the Ohio with some others in canoes, and, land-
ing here, cut out the initials of his name, with the date.
This was in the year 1754 ; and from that time till 1767
the communication of his discovery remained unnoticed,
when about the latter period Mr. Finley penetrated into

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 237

this province by land. But having some disputes with the
Indians, he returned, and communicating his observations
to Colonel Boon and a few more, thej agreed, in 1769, to
explore it, which was accordingly done; but after a num-
ber of difficulties and trials, they were cruelly murdered
by the Indians, except the Colonel, who continued an
inhabitant of the wilderness till 1771, when he directed
his steps towards his own home; but in September, 1773,
he returned again to this delightful region, bringing with
him five families more, and forty men that joined them
in Powel's Valley : and from this ^ra may be dated the
first settlement of this state. However, the settlements
did not materially increase during the long continental
war with England, in which that power excited the In-
dians to oppose the emigration of the Americans into
these back provinces, which retarded very much the im-
provements which otherwise might have been made. But
at the restoration of peace, encouragement was given and
advantages held out, by which Kentucky since that period
has arrived at a pitch of opulence and improvement un-
paralleled in the annals of history. Scarcely ten years
had elapsed, when this country sprang from a desert and
uninhabited wilderness into all the maturity of cultiva-
tion and advancement of society. Those ranks of men
who form the first and second classes of society have
moved off, and left the country for the most part to be
possessed by those who have been brought up in all the
refinement and civilised manners of their brethren on the
eastern side of the Allegany mountains. From a few
straggling settlements scattered over this vast territory,
whose inhabitants were obliged to shut themselves up in
block-houses, and establish their right by the point of the

238 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

sword, who ranged lawless through this wilderness, every
one doing that which seemed right in his own eyes — there
have arisen (as Imlay justly expresses it) fertile fields,
blushing orchards, neat and commodious houses, and
trading towns, whose inhabitants have imposed upon
themselves the just restraint of mild laws, and who,
increasing in numbers, can lie down secure and free
from all apprehensions of the tomahawk or scalp ing-knife.
Such has been the wonderful progress of this country,
to have implicit faith in which, it is first necessary (as
Imlay once more expresses himself) to be a spectator of
such events.

Port William (the spot from which I now write) con-
tains about sixty houses, and is pleasantly situated on
the eastern side of the mouth of the Kentucky. The
Ohio, opposite this place, is about 600 yards wide, and
the Kentucky appeared to me to be about 100. There
are a number of boats at this season of the year that
come down the river Kentucky from the interior parts of
that state laden with flour, tobacco, hemp, &c., which
they take down to New Orleans; and Port William is
generally made a landing place, where they stop before
they proceed down the Ohio.

We started from this place about eight or nine o'clock
this evening, in order that we might get to the Falls by the
morning. There was another boat at Port William, which
was going down to New Orleans, and we agreed to keep
together all the way as well as we could. It is always
most pleasant in going down the Mississippi, where you
pass through such an immense tract of uncultivated coun-
try, to have as many boats as you can in company, not
only for the sake of society, but also in case you should

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 239

stand in need of assistance during the course of such a
dangerous navigation.

We both started in company, and the weather being
very favourable and the night serene, we lashed both our
boats together, and suffered them to float in this manner
during the whole of the night; by this mean we relieved
our watches very much, and enjoyed the advantages of an
extended society. In the morning, —

Tuesday, April 11th, 1797, — about seven o'clock, we
came to an island, which indicated our near approach
to the Falls, being only twelve miles from it; and at
eight we came to another, near the mouth of Goose
Creek, six miles from it. These are the only islands
(except two just above Port William, and three just above
Limestone) to be met with from the Great Kanaway to
this place. At nine we came to Louisville, (seventy-five
miles from the Kentucky,) where all the boats going down
the Ohio put ashore to take in a pilot to conduct them
over the Falls.

Louisville, which may contain about 200 houses, chiefly
frame-built, is pleasantly situated on the second bank of
the river, which is about fifty feet higher than the bed ;
and you do not catch a sight of it till you come into the
mouth of Bear-grass Creek, which is a stream of water
flowing along the eastern boundary of the town, and
emptying itself into the Ohio, thereby forming an excel-
lent harbour for the boats which come down that river,
so that they are in no danger of being driven from their
moorings and carried over the Falls, The reason you
cannot see the town till you come immediately upon it
is, that you are obliged to keep to the left shore, in order
to get into the creek ; otherwise, if you ventured far out

240 JOURNAL OF A TOUR,

in the stream, you would get into the such of the rapids
ere you could possibly recover yourself, which would
prove the destruction of the boat and yourself too. The
prospect from Louisville is truly delightful. The Ohio
here is near a mile wide, and is bounded on the opposite
side by an open champaign country, where there is a fort
kept up for the protection of this infant colony, and
called Fort Steuben. About two miles lower down on
the opposite shore, is Clarkesville, a little village consist-
ing of about twenty houses. This settlement was formed
by General George Rogers Clarke, who had a share of the
150,000 acres of land which was given to him and other
officers who were at the reduction of Kaskaskias and St.
Vincent's, and which was laid out in that part of the
north-western territory immediately opposite Louisville.
But what tends to signalize this place, and to render its
prospect still more enchanting as well as awfully grand,
is the almost perpetual presence of an immense cataract
of water, formed by the Ohio hurrying itself with the
greatest rapidity over a ledge of limestone rocks, which
extend from one side of the river to the other : I say,
almost perpetual, because in time of high-water, when
the banks are quite full, the torrent is scarcely perceptible
except in one place, and boats of any size may pass over
with the greatest safety and in the darkest night ; but
when this supply is not kept up, and the water below
begins to lose its level, then the torrent begins to roar,
and loud-sounding rocks to foam with unabated vigour;
then the boat twists its unyielding sides to the force of
the compelling current, and the long-accustomed pilot
with dismay exerts himself, and stirs on his associates to
lend a willing hand to save him from the impending

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 241

destruction ; till at last, escaped from all danger, the
vessel (like an arrow from the bow) is propelled with
great violence from this Charjbdis, and in peace once
more possesses the wonted gentle course.

Louisville is the last place of any consequence which
you pass in going down the Ohio ; for, though the state
of Kentucky extends as far as Cumberland river, yet
there are few or no settlements of any consequence after
passing this place. Here then we may date our departure
from this renowned country : a country which the flatter-
ing pen of Imlay has so ably pourtrayed ; and whose
description, though at the same time perfectly reconcile-
able to facts, does not give that just idea of the country,
which a person on reading his work would be apt to sup-
pose. He has held up to our view the favourable side
only of this country, and has hid from us the many dark
traits which tend to render its habitation but little above
mediocrity; at least, to those who have been brought up
in different habits of life to what are here manifested.
As to the climate, and face and soil of the country,
nothing can be finer, or more fully answer the expecta-
tions of those who emigrate hither, and to these he has
done justice in the description ; but then there are a
number of other things, both in the state of society and
in the general habits of the people, which, in my opinion
at least, far overbalance these advantages ; and of these I
shall treat, when I come to describe the manners and
customs of the Americans in general. But there is one
thing that is very much against this country, and ever
will remain so, till some very active measures are taken
to prevent it ; and that is the total uncertainty in the
titles to the lands. This is an evil which loudly calls for

R

242 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

redress, and has very much obstructed the further advance-
ment of this country, and has added vigour and strength
to the infant settlements on the other side of the Ohio,
where the titles are of a more sure origin. The uncer-
tainty of titles to Kentucky lands is become quite a pro-
verb, and arises from the negligent and careless manner
in which the government suffered the first emigrants to
settle the country. There are three different ways of
acquiring titles : — the first is by a pre-emption right ;
second, by warrants ; third, by purchase. If a person
goes and settles in an uncultivated country which is not
claimed by any party, and clears a spot of ground, and
marks a space round his plantation ; — when the country
comes to be settled the inheritance is generally confirmed
to him, and he is said to have acquired a pre-emption
right. At the close of the American war several of the
soldiers, instead of being paid in money for their services,
had warrants given them for a certain quantity of land,
which they might locate wherever they found it unoccu-
pied : — to locate, means to particularize and describe
correctly the place which is intended to be reserved for
the sole use and possession of the person claiming the
same : so that a person with one of these warrants, when-
ever he saw a piece of land which he approved, would im-
mediate locate it for his own use ; that is, he would
describe the bounds of that land which he meant to
reserve for himself. The third way, viz., by purchase, is
accomplished by going to the land-office of the govern-
ment, and buying what quantity of land (unoccupied
and unlocated) you may have occasion for. Now, it has
often happened, that these different titles have clashed
with each other ; and even the same methods of acquir-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 243

ing titles have often clashed with each other ; for if
two persons happened to fix upon the same spot, they
might each locate it unknown to the other, or their
diflferent boundaries might so far intersect each other,
that part, if not the whole, of the land might be dis-
puted, particularly as it would be hard to prove who was
the first that claimed a title thereto. It has also hap-
pened that the government has often incautiously, or
rather ignorantly, sold lands to which another person had
a prior title by having located it. In this manner was
the whole of this state settled, and which is the cause of
your buying, almost universally, with every tract of land
a lawsuit with some prior claimant ; and I believe it
has often happened that a person has bought his land two
or three times, nay, four or five times, and has had it
disputed at last. So that one is never certain when the
title is secure ; for though you may rest undisturbed in the
enjoyment for several years, yet your adversary may come
at last, and turn you at once out of all your possessions
and improvements. And this backwardness is often de-
signed ; for if a prior claimant sees his land in the hands
of a good and industrious husbandman, he will let him
alone till he has increased the value of it considerably by
his improvements. The government of the state is taking
means to prevent the like abuses in future, by opening a
land-office, where regular entries are to be made of every
place located, together with the date of its location; and
without an entry of this sort no title will stand. How-
ever, it will be a long time ere they can remedy the evil
which has been actually introduced by their primary
neglect of this salutary institution.

We stayed at Louisville till Thursday, April l^th,

R 2

244 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

when about half-past one p.m. we started, having taken
on board Dr. Watrous, who is a surgeon in the army of
the United States. He appeared very much of the gentle-
man ; and we were pleased to receive him, as he flattered
us with the idea of being an agreeable companion. Owing
to the height of the water, we scarcely perceived any dif-
ference in going over the Rapids ; they had now lost all
that turbulence and violent emotion which at any other
season they preserve, when the foaming stream rushing
with impetuosity against the firm rocks is cast in clouds
to the sky, and depicts dismay in every countenance ; and
in passing over which, the passengers may truly say, with
iEneas, —

Tollimur in coelum curvato gurgite et idem
Subducta ad Manes imos descendimus unda.

Just below the Rapids there is a landing-place, where
the boats generally stop to put ashore the pilot who con-
ducts them over the Falls : here we stayed about four or
five hours, and about six we started again, and at twelve
at night came to Salt river. This stream of water,
which is about one hundred and fifty yards wide at its
mouth, forms a curious meandering course through a
most delightful country, and is curiously interlocked at its
source with those streams which form the heads of Green,
Dicks, and Rock Castle rivers. It is navigable for sixty
miles, and at about fifteen miles from its mouth is joined
by the Rollingfork, which is a considerable branch of Salt
river. We continued floating day and night without any
material occurrence till [April lUh was Good Friday)

Saturday, April 15 th, — when about six o'clock we
came into the Low Country, which is one hundred and
fifty miles from the Falls. This is properly the tormina-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 245

tion of those hills which commence about the mouth of
Sandy river, and gradually decline to this place ; and
now, instead of those romantic scenes which a broken and
a hilly country often afforded us, we had an entirely flat
and overflowed, though at the same time rich and fertile,
country continually presented to our view ; and this uni-
formity of appearance, with very little deviation, is pre-
served till you come to ISTatchez, which is a considerable
way down the Mississippi. Here we began to enter upon
that immense tract of fine land lying between the Allegany
mountains on the east, and a range of similar mountains
extending on the west through Louisiana — a tract of
land which is watered by some of the finest streams and
one of the most noble and majestic rivers in the world,
and unequalled in point of fertility by any throughout
the globe.

About half-past one we came to Green river. This river,
which is about two hundred yards wide at its mouth,
it has been observed, curiously interlocks itself with
the heads of Dicks, Salt, and Rock Castle rivers, and is
navigable for a hundred and fifty miles from its mouth.
It preserves nearly a western course for a considerable
distance, when it turns to the northward, and empties
itself into the Ohio at the place above mentioned.

At half-past three we came to Pigeon Creek. This is
the general landing for persons coming down the Ohio,
and going to Post St. Vincent's, which is a considerable
settlement on the Wabash river. It was first formed by
the French, when they claimed this part of the country
north-west of the Ohio ; but being taken by the Ame-
ricans, the original settlers were confirmed in their pos-
sessions, and at this time carry on a considerable trade

246 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

with the Indians, with whom they barter guns, powder,
blankets, &c., in exchange for furs, skins, &c. It is situ-
ated about a hundred and fifty miles from the mouth of
the Wabash, which empties itself into the Ohio, and by
means of which the inhabitants carry on a foreign trade
with New Orleans. There is a path from this place to
Pigeon Creek (from which I now write) by which emi-
grants to this place drive their cattle, &c., to the Post,
which saves them a circuitous route round the mouth of
the Wabash, as well as the great difficulty of ascending
that river. Opposite this place we put ashore for two
hours, and at half-past five started again, and, floating all
night, about eight o'clock the next morning, —

Sunday, April 1 Qtli, — came to the Wabash. This river
is ninety-eight miles from Green river, and is about three
hundred yards wide at its mouth ; and, except some con-
siderable rapids, is navigable upwards of four hundred
miles ; it is separated from the Miami of the lakes, by a
portage of only nine miles, by means of which a commu-
nication might be easily opened between Lake Erie and
the Ohio. Here we saw a number of Indians encamped
on the shore. We got into our canoe and went to them ;
but they were so surrounded by bushes and trees, and the
country overflowed for so considerable a way in, that we
could not get to them, though they hallooed to us, and
seemed to wish it very much. About half-past five we
came to Big Cave. This curious place is situated about
forty-three miles below the mouth of the Wabash river ;
and having understood that it was worth seeing, Dr.
Watrous and myself got into the canoe, about half an
hour before we arrived at it, and proceeding ahead of the
boat as fast as we could, in order that we might not be

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 247

left behind, we landed just at the mouth of it. It
is formed by a long ledge of limestone rock, extending
a considerable way along the banks of the Ohio. By
what means this place was excavated is entirely un-
known. Its entrance was on a landing-place, and its
mouth was ten feet high and twenty feet wide, and it
extended about fifty feet inwards, so that it had some-
what the appearance of an immense oven. We entered
it and found the sides very damp, and observed a con-
stant dropping from the roof, occasioned by the moisture
filtering through the stone. Here likewise we beheld a
number of names cut out in the sides of the cave, which
in this solitary place, and cut off as we were from society*
gave us even a degree of pleasure to look over ; and in
which employment we should probably have persevered
some time, had we not been called off by the shouts of
our companions from the boat, whom the too rapid
stream had caused to overtake us so speedily. We
hastily obeyed the summons, and on coming out into
open day, we were astonished to observe how prodi-
giously swift the boat appeared to fly past us. We imme-
diately hurried into our canoe, and it was near an hour
ere we could overtake it. On getting into the boat again,
and looking over the side, directly into the water, we
were again astonished to observe the difference of motion
with which we appeared to go ; in this case we scarcely
seemed to move ; but on taking our eyes off and casting
them on the shore, the deception immediately vanished,
and we appeared to be carried along with our usual
rapidity. The bank of the Ohio immediately below the
cave is a perpendicular rock of limestone for some dis-
tance, and has much the appearance as if it were the

248 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

work of art, and thrown up for a fortification ; it is over-
grown with moss and bushes, and terminated towards the
shore with lofty trees ; and the whole appearance forms a
beautiful object, particularly as the eye has so long dwelt
upon the same general appearance for many miles down
the river, without meeting with any object to relieve it
from this uniformity.

At dark this evening we came to* in consequence of
a violent storm of thunder and lightning, which now
threatened us with the most dreadful explosions, and the
most vivid flashes I ever experienced in my life. A long
residence in this country habituated me to those storms,
of which we can form no idea in the old country, and
had worn away all the unpleasant sensations which are
generally caused by this phenomenon ; so that, in the
language of Mr. Burke, as I was divested of all fear, I
could enjoy the true sublime without any alloy. We
made our boat fast to the trees, and got as far between
them as we possibly could (for the banks were overflowed)
in order to screen ourselves from the wind, which blew
very hard. In a few minutes the lightning began to
flash, and the thunder to be re-echoed from the woods in
such dismal crashes, and such long rolling peals, as to be
utterly beyond the power of description. This lasted,
with some intermission, nearly the whole of the night ;
and the next morning, —

Monday, April 17th, 1797, — about half-past five, we
put to sea again ; but the wind coming on rather suddenly,
we were obliged to put ashore again about eight. The
river now was near a mile wide, and the stream running

* To cortie to is a sea phi'ase.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR, 249

SO rapidly, the least wind (which is generally up the
river, when there is any) caused such an ebullition in
the water, that our boat (to use a sailor's expression)
could not weather it ; it would work her so much as to
cause her to take in a great quantity of water ; and if
great haste be not made, she would soon go to the bot-
tom ; so that it is very dangerous in these boats in a
windy day. As we were nearly in the middle of the
stream, it was some time ere we could get her to shore
again, as the stream was so strong and our oars had
very little power over it ; and she was nearly half full of
water ere we could accomplish our purport. However,
having got her moored in safety, we cleared her out as
fast and as well as we could ; and about ten o'clock at
night, the weather clearing up again, we put to sea once
more, and continuing to float all night, we came the
next morning, —

Tuesday J April 18th, — about eight o'clock, to Cumber-
land river, which is fifty-two and a half miles from the
Big Cave ; and just below the mouth of the river, we
were obliged to put to again on account of the wind ;
which, as usual, was directly in our teeth, and impeded
the progress o f the boat very much.

Cumberland river is a considerable branch of the Ohio,
and is about 300 yards wide at its mouth ; its current
is gentle, and it is navigable upwards of 200 miles from
its mouth ; that is, in large vessels to I^ashville, and
thence in boats to the mouth of Obed's river. It rises
in the same range of mountains that the Tenessee river
does, and preserves nearly the same general course ; and
though it is separated from it in some places near 100
miles, particularly where the latter forms what is called

250 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

the Great Bend, yet the two empty themselves into the
Ohio at onlj eleven miles distance from each other. A
great number of boats come round this waj and ascend
this stream in order to get into the interior of the new
State of Tenessee ; that is, to the settlements on the
different waters that run into this river.

About three o'clock in the afternoon we started again,
and about six (the wind still continuing rough, which
impeded our progress) we came to the Tenessee — a river
so noble and so broad, and coming down with so rapid
a current, that it might be mistaken (in ascending the
stream) for the Ohio itself ; in fact, it may as properly be
called the Ohio, as the branch which goes by that name,
for the two streams make an equal angle with the lower
current, and would easily deceive a person coming
against the stream if he did not know on which side
the Tenessee lay. This river, I have just observed, rises
in the same range of mountains that the Cumberland
does. I shall extract what Imlay says upon this river,
his observations being agreeable to those I have made
myself. "The Tenessee is the most important of the
southern branches of the Ohio. Its northern fork, called
Holston, rises in the country of the same name ; and
after passing through Nolachucky, is joined by the main
or south branch. This branch rises in the remote parts
of the state of Georgia, and after traversing the borders
of the Cherokee country is joined by the Holstein branch,
when it is called the Tenessee ; from thence it runs south-
westerly, and approaches the head waters of the Mobile,
which empties itself into the Gulf of Mexico. In its
course it is very rapid thus far, from the material decli-
vity of the high country, which from mountains naturally

JOURIfAL OF A TOUR. 251

sinks into a flat. There is a number of falls, but none
of them considerable. It now begins to turn to the
northward ; and from its lazy motion it is evident there
is very little fall of water from this to the Ohio. This
turn constitutes what is called the Great Bend of the
Tenessee ; and in this bend there is a place in the river
which widens from two to three and a half miles, and
about thirty miles long ; and from the number of shoals
just here, which are covered with muscles, it is called
the Muscle shoals ; and the river almost from its source
to this place is navigable by vessels of forty or fifty tons
burthen, except in some fev/ places where there are
rapids ; and from the Muscle shoals to the Ohio, a dis-
tance of 260 miles, it is navigable by vessels of any size."
I shall have occasion to speak again of this noble river,
as it will be found that on my return, I traversed great
part of the country through which it flows. Early the
next morning, —

Wednesday, April 19th, — we started, and about seven
o'clock came to Fort Massac, eleven miles from the Tenes-
see. This station is pleasantly situated on a point of land
which projects somewhat into the Ohio, and commands
a fine view up the stream. It was first planted by the
French when they had possession of this country, and
formed one of that vast chain of forts which the ambi-
tious views of the French monarch had at that time esta-
blished in order to ensure the conquest of this country,
and thereby unite the two provinces of Louisiana and
Canada. It takes its name from a cruel massacre"' of the
garrison by the Indians, when the French had posses-

* Massac is a corruption of Massacre.

252 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

sion of it, and the story related of this transaction by the
inhabitants is this : — The Indians had a long while
endeavoured to get the garrison out of the fort, in order
that they might attack them with more certainty of
success ; but having tried several expedients in vain,
they at last hit upon the following. After having ap-
parently retired for some time from the fort, an Indian
dressed himself up in a bear's skin, and on the opposite
shore began to imitate the actions of that animal. A
number of the garrison unsuspectingly ventured across to
attack him. This had the desired effect : the cunning
impostor, as soon as he found they had taken the bait,
began to climb the bank, and with a slow step to lead
his adversaries into the wood. They followed and fell
into the ambush which was prepared for them ; and at
the same time a party of the same tribe attacked the fort,
and cruelly massacred all the garrison.

This fort is still kept up by the Americans as a guard
to the frontiers against any attack from this quarter-
There are about thirty families settled round it, and the
garrison consists, at this time, of eighty-three men,
commanded by Captain Zebulon Pike, an experienced
officer, who behaved to us with the greatest politeness and
attention. He insisted on our coming to his table
during our stay at this place, which (owing to the
weather) was longer than we expected. There were a
great number of Indians encamped about here ; some of
whom were immediately upon the shore, others at a
little distance up the country. We went up amongst
them along with the Captain to see some of their wig-
wams. They very cordially received us, and we bartered a
number of things with them for skins, &c.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 253

On Saturday/, the 22nd, we had another most tremendous
gale of wind, accompanied with the same violence of thun-
der and lightning. Our boat lay out in the open river;
and, though close to the shore, was unprotected from the
fury of the wind and waves, which now began to increase
exceedingly ; and by dashing our boat against the shore,
endangered her very much. There was a little creek
about two hundred yards higher up the river, into
which we ought to have put, when we landed ; but the
rapidity of the current drove us beyond it. However, we
were determined, if possible, to get her up there, where
she would be perfectly sheltered from any storm. The
hurricane now began to increase, and the thunder to
crash with horrible re-echoings from the surrounding
woods, like the discharge of numberless cannons at the
same time ; the vivid lightning, too, appeared to roll
around us. In this dilemma we were obliged to haul our
boat up against a most rapid current, or she would soon
have been dashed to pieces. Our own endeavours being
ineffectual to accomplish it, we were going to send up
to the garrison to request the Captain to send us some
assistance, when some Indians, who were standing on the
bank, and saw our helpless situation, kindly offered their
assistance; and, by the help of their exertions, united
to our own, we soon got her safe to her desired port; in
the execution of which, we could not help admiring the
undaunted perseverance and laborious efforts of this race
of men. After it was accomplished, we could not but
thank them for their kind labours. However, they soon
spied out something which pleased them much more than
bare thanks : this was a barrel of whiskey which we had
in one corner of the boat, and which (as they are fond

254 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

of all kinds of spirituous liquors) they seemed to have
an inclination to taste. As they had been so exceedingly
kind to us, we could not refuse them this apparently
small request, though at the same time we were rather
fearful of the consequences it might produce. Accord-
ingly, having seated them on some barrels round a fire
we had in the boat, we drew them some in a cup, which,
after going round once or twice, was soon emptied.
They then wished for some more. We at first refused;
but, on their promising to leave the boat as soon as it
was finished, we at last consented. By the time this
had gone round, the liquor had begun to take efiect,
though not to drive them any great length; they were
then only in the first stage of intoxication, — a state
where the faculties are fully preserved, but the spirit
somewhat enlivened. We endeavoured, then, to get rid
of them before they got any worse; but they (now
grown familiar with us) liked our company (or rather
the company of the whiskey barrel) too well to part;
and one of them, taking hold of me, made me sit down
by him, and began to teach me his language, telling me
what he called the different objects which happened to
present themselves. We indulged this behaviour, think-
ing it might draw them from a conduct much worse in
its consequences ; but they did not continue it long, for
the liquor which they had taken began now^to take more
violent effect, and they were very vociferous for more.
We entreated and threatened by turns, in order to induce
them to leave the boat, but they would not, and we now
began to repent of ever admitting them therein ; for if
they had once got to quarrelling (which is not uncom-
mon when they are drunk), blood most probably would

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 255

have been spilled. In this situation we determined to
send up to the garrison for a file of soldiers to come to
our assistance ; but the Captain, who understood the
management of them, came down, and after expostu-
lating with them, told them that there was but one more
cup in the barrel, and that if they would drink it ashore
they might have it, but not without; so, rather than
lose the last dear drop, they consented; and when they
had left the boat, we pulled the plank in, and would not
sufier them to enter any more. Thus, as the Captain in-
formed us, we had a happy escape from these riotous
visitors ; for had they been suffered to have gone on as
they wished, they would have committed the most atro-
cious crimes without compunction or remorse. This led
me to reflect upon the vice of drunkenness, and to set it
down as one of the counterbalances against the boasted
advantages of improvements in civilization. ]\Ian in a
state of nature is content with those gifts which so
bountiful a parent has bestowed; he takes these gifts
without repining; his days are spent in the delightful
pleasures of the chase, which, from the variety of its
objects, ever affords something new in the pursuit;
when this is over he returns to his family, and they
each, with thankful hearts, partake of the delicious re-
past : his wants are few : his cares are less : and at
night he lies down with an undisturbed mind to enjoy
the sweet comforts of refreshing sleep, and to awake in
the morning to new pleasures. This was the happy lot
of an Indian life ere they became acquainted with a race
of men who boasted superior endowments, but who (to
their shame be it spoken ! ) have introduced, for the sake
of oppression and plunder, their sweet destroyer of all

25 G JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

human cares — the distilled juice of the vine; who have
made the days of intoxication, and all its concomitant
evils, succeed a state of almost primeval bliss ; who have
implanted in a quarter of the globe a thirst after a vice,
of which, had it not been for them, they would ever
have remained ignorant. We stayed at Fort Massac till

Sunday, April 23rd, — when about twelve o'clock we
started, Dr. Watrous having left us in order to proceed
down the river in a keel boat, which had just come from
Post St. Vincent. About five o'clock we came to, on ac-
count of another storm of thunder and lightning. These
storms now became so frequent to us, that it would be
endless to note them down every time they took place,
particularly on our passage down the Mississippi ; I shall,
therefore, treat of them among my general remarks at
the end of the voyage. This storm continued during the
night and the greatest part of the next day ; however,
about four o'clock p.m., on

Monday, April 2Uli, — the weather clearing up, we
started again, and about seven got to Cash Creek, which
is situated about a mile below an island, and about
six miles above the mouth of the Ohio. We put in here,
as we were unwilling to venture upon the Mississippi
before the morning, when we should be able to see our
way clear, and avoid the sawyers, which obstruct the
navigation of that river very much. These sawyers* are
large trunks of trees, which are brought down by the
force of the current, and in shallow places stick in the
mud, where they adhere so firmly as to be immoveable
by any exterior force. As it is only at one end by which

* They appear to saw the water, whence their name.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 257

they are held, the other appears above water, sometimes
a great length, and by the velocity of the current striking
against them, they cause a great roaring noise, which
may be heard at a considerable distance, and which is
generally the index by which their presence is known.
The part above water is almost always in motion : I have
sometimes seen them so thick as to appear like a little
wood of dead trees before us. This appearance was very
rare when we descended, as the water was very high and
had covered a great many of them ; but in dry seasons, I
am informed they are very dangerous, as a boat coming
against one of them with the velocity with which she is
carried by the stream, would inevitably bulge ; and it is
necessary to use some degree of skill to get through a
grove of these stumps with safety. This being the case,
we waited here till daylight the next morning, —

Tuesday, April 25th, — when we started under the in-
fluence of as mild an atmosphere and as serene a sky as
was ever experienced : not a cloud was to be seen through-
out the whole horizon, and the sun had just risen upon
this western hemisphere as we approached the spot where
I was to behold that river my eyes had so long wished to
see. Presently, on our doubling a point of land which
obstructed our view, I had the happiness of seeing the
prospect terminated by the majestic current of the Mis-
sissippi, which, flowing along with all the apparent inso-
lence of pride, seemed to disdain any connexion with so
paltry a stream as the one we had just passed over. I
could not but regard this event as a singular one in the
course of my travels, and I continued to fix my eyes on
the spot where these two noble rivers meet, and form so
great a contrast in their appearance — the one in the tur-

s

258 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

bidness and ebullition of its current, the other in its
limpid, gliding stream. I say, I could not help feasting
my eyes with these objects, till the rapidity of the current
hurried me from the view.

The Ohio discharges itself into the Mississippi about
forty-six miles below Fort Massac, in 37° 0' 23" N. L.
and"^^ in 5^ 55' 7" W. L. from Greenwich. Its current for
the most part is pure and gentle, except when there
comes a fresh, when the waters bring with them a con-
siderable quantity of earthy particles, which tinge the
river till it has passed off, when it re-assumes its wonted
clearness.

I have taken occasion to show in a preceding part of
this book, that the Ohio f is very low during the winter
season, so much so, as often to obstruct the navigation in
its upper parts. The period when the floods come down
and cause it to rise depends upon those causes which
apply to rivers in general in similar situations ; namely,
the breaking up of the winter, when the snow on the
mountain-tops begins to melt, and the rains to descend,
which in this country is about February or March, though
there are generally partial floods before Christmas, which
rise the river sufficiently for the purposes of navigation.
From this time, then, till May the rivers continue to rise;
when they gradually decline again, and by the end of June
in most seasons they are too low for the purposes of navi-
gation . The rapidity of the current of course depends upon
the height of the water in the river, as I have sufficiently

* Mr. Ellicott's Journal makes it 37" 0' 22-9" and S*" 55' 22-8"
= 88° 50' 42".

t Tlie variation of tlie magnetic needle at the mouth of the
Ohio is, according to Mr. Ellicott, 7° 15' east.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 259

remarked elsewhere. There is one thing which I ought
to mention before I take my leave of this river, and that
is what is called the hach current at the mouths of the
different streams which run into the Ohio. These back
currents are very favourable to the ascent of the boats up
these rivers, and are often waited for by persons wishing
to take advantage of them; and they will extend 50,
60, nay, even 100 miles up the stream, and with a velo-
city sufficient to propel the boat without any external
aid. These back currents are occasioned by a sudden
flood in the Ohio, whereby the level of that river is ren-
dered higher than the neighbouring streams, and con-
sequently it repels those streams, and causes them to
retire within themselves; at the same time, the common
channel of the Ohio not being sufficiently large for this
sudden effusion of water, it rushes up these openings, and
causes a current contrary to the natural course of the
stream.

I have now brought you the whole length of the Ohio ;
and, with regret, I must leave its borders, without any
more adverting to the delightful scenery which it was
continually presenting to us. If we put ashore to gather
herbs and vegetables for our subsistence, we saw the
works of nature profusely lavished throughout an unin-
habited country ; if we possessed the water, our atten-
tion was continually attracted by the flight of immense
flocks of wild fowl, and other birds, who, undisturbed,
preserved their course through the air, regardless of our
near approach ; or we might behold the nimble deer
browzing on the banks, or the fierce bear darting through
the thicket. These were scenes which often would pre-
sent themselves ; and, from their novelty and attraction,

s 2

260 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

made amends for our seclusion from society and friends.
We are now arrived at a part of the globe where these scenes
no more present themselves, at least those scenes which had
the shore for their theatre of action ; for the country bor-
dering on the Mississippi is so extremely low, that when the
floods come down it is entirely overflowed, and that for a
great distance back from the river, so that it is but at
few places (where the ground rises a little) that dry land
appears. Over all the other parts, the stream breaks with
astonishing rapidity, and deluges the country to a great
depth. When, therefore, we put to shore at night, we
are elevated considerably above the ground, and can
behold nothing betwixt the immense forests but one con-
tinued sea. It is not immediately upon entering the
Mississippi that we meet with this appearance ; on the
contrary, there are several high grounds, till we advance
a considerable way down the river. The first which pre-
sented itself was Iron Banks, which is situated on the
eastern side of the river, about fifteen miles below the
mouth of the Ohio. It is a bluff" of white and red sand or
clay, on the banks of the river, and has the appearance of
iron ore : I say, lias the appearance, because we could not
get ashore to ascertain the fact, as the current set very
strong against it, and we had enough to do to keep the
boat off. Mentioning this circumstance, I ought not to
forget to inform you of the curious appearance which the
Mississippi makes just here, and in fact throughout its
whole course, on its surface. It is well known that water
flowing with great rapidity will form itself into vortices,
which are propelled to the surface, and cause a rilling,
murmuring sound. This, upon a large scale, is the case
with the Mississippi ; but it is particularly observable at

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 261

this place, as the clear water of the Ohio and the turbid
waters of the Mississippi have not been properly mixed
together ; in fact, thej may be observed to preserve their
different sides for a considerable way down. When any one
of these vortices, then, is thus thrown up, it brings with
it such a body of slime and mud, that it makes the river
appear like one vast seething pot. About three or four
miles below the Iron Banks and on the same side appear
chalk bluffs. "Bluff" is a name given in this country to
any promontory of land that terminates almost perpen-
dicularly ; and these, which are called so on the river,
appear to have been formed by the continual washing
of the current at their feet, which has caused the base
to give way, and thereby rendered the whole side as if
broken off by some violent convulsion. This evening
we put ashore at an old encamping ground about forty-
five miles below the mouth of the Ohio ; and the next
morning, —

Wednesday, April 26th, — about nine o'clock, we
came to N'ew Madrid. This is a town seated on the
western shore of the Mississippi, consequently in the
province of Louisiana, and belongs to the Spaniards. It
is the first settlement at which you arrive on entering
that river, and is about sixty miles below the mouth of
the Ohio, Here we put ashore, both by desire and com-
pulsion. By desire, because we wished to provide our-
selves with several necessaries for our journey through a
long uninhabited country. By compulsion, as the Spaniards
(who have usurped the exclusive dominion over this
river) oblige every boat to land in order that they may
give in an account of their cargo, and receive passports,
that they may be suffered to proceed unmolested by the

262 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

other forts down the river. For, though they had entered
into a solemn treaty with the Americans, to allow them
the free use and navigation of the river, they yet preserve
the same system of tyranny and oppression over its citizens
who navigate that river, as if no such treaty ever existed.
Here it was that I first saw (stuck up at the door of the
Court-house) a proclamation, stating that England had
declared war against Spain. This being the case, I care-
fully concealed the place of my birth, well knowing what
an inquisitorial and tyrannical race of mortals I had to
pass through. We had scarcely fastened our boat to the
shore, when one of the Spanish garrison came down to us,
and by signs made us follow him to the commandant of
the place. We obeyed, and were introduced to his excel-
lency,'''' who, by means of an interpreter, asked us a
number of questions relative to the nature of our voyage,
&c., and after satisfying himself that we were not come
to plunder the country, or make them all prisoners, he
gave us our passports, and permitted us to depart at our
pleasure.

New Madrid is situated on a level plain which extends
a considerable way into the country, on the western
bank of the Mississippi, just opposite an island which
stands nearly in the middle of the river. It may contain
two or three hundred houses, scattered about at unequal
distances within a mile of the fort, which stands in the
centre of a square in the middle of the town, and which
contains from thirty to forty men. Great encourage-
ment is held out by the Spanish government to persons
settling here ; there being given to them from two hun-
dred and forty to four hundred acres of land gratis,
* Don Carlos De Hault De Lassus,

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 263

according to their families ; that is, a man and his wife
onlj will obtain two hundred and forty acres, and in pro-
portion as his family is larger the more he receives ; the
present value of the land not being so much an object to
the government, as the resources which they hereafter
expect to find when the country becomes settled. Under
this flattering temptation many Americans have been
induced to come and settle among them ; and were it
not for a few French and Spanish that are mixed with
them, it might easily be mistaken for an American set-
tlement. The original plan of the town was according
to that of Penn, and the fort possessed that part imme-
diately fronting the river ; but so much does the Missis-
sippi encroach upon the banks, that the original fort has
long since been buried under its waters. The ground
being but a light earthy soil, upon a loose sand, the
river undermines it, and will cause whole acres to fall in
together, which, with the weight of so many lofty trees
falling, creates a most tremendous crash. This observa-
tion will serve for the whole course of the Mississippi, and
I have often been witness to it myself. There are a
number of settlements formed in the interior of the coun-
try, a few miles from the river, and about a mile ofi" there
is a prairie, or natural meadow. As I had never seen
any of these curiosities of nature, I walked one afternoon
to it, and here my eye was delighted with one continued
plain for some miles in extent, without a tree or shrub
upon it ; and affording a striking contrast with the dark
and shady woods from which I had just emerged. These
prairies are large tracts of land which are covered entirely
with grass, and are supposed by many persons to have
formerly been lakes of water, which, from some unknown

264 jouR:fAL OF a tour.

cause, have drained off, and left the whole spot without any
other covering than a large tall grass, which reaches some-
times six feet high. From the position of this one, which
I am now mentioning, I think there is reason to conclude
that this has been the case, particularly when it is ob-
served that they are always to be found on low ground :
for I have seen some on high ground which go by the
name of prairies, that evidently arise from the natural
barrenness of the country, and the firing of the woods ;
whereas, in these, there cannot be a finer mould, or a
more fruitful country under heaven. Sometimes there
will be little eminences scattered about these prairies,
having clusters of trees on them, which is a further con-
firmation of their having been lakes, as they may be sup-
posed to have been islands in them.

I do not like New Madrid at all ; I mean, if I had my
choice of living in it. It lies under a number of disad-
vantages, which, in my mind, outweigh all the encourage-
ments with which the government endeavours to tempt
you. In the first place, its position is so insulated that it
must depend in a great measure upon itself for every
thing it wants ; for, though a number of boats pass down
this river in the course of the year, and all stop here, yet
the commandant will never suffer any thing to be sold
out of them, unless it be articles of absolute necessity,
and very scarce, such as flour, Indian meal, whiskey,
plants, &c. &c. ; for as to manufactured goods, &c., none
are permitted to be imported, except such as come through
the port of 'New Orleans, and up the long course of the
Mississippi, the freight of which comes enormously expen-
sive to inhabitants situated so far up the stream : though,
nutwithstanding all the vigilance of the government, a

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 265

great deal of smuggling takes place, and there is every
reason to think, (in fact, it is well known,) that the com-
mandants not only connive at it, but enter into it them-
selves ; and it is very seldom taken notice of, unless when
it makes against their own interest. The usual way of
managing this business is to send the commandant a
present, which, like an opium draft, lays the Argus asleep,
and binds up the hands of justice. In the second place,
you are so cut off from society, that if you happen to be
placed in the environs of some unpleasant neighbours,
you have not opportunity of retiring to another part of
the country ; for the place itself is but small, and wholly
detached from any other settlement in that part of
the world. I believe the nearest settlement to it is the
one we had just left, viz. Fort Massac, on the banks of
the Ohio, and upwards of one hundred miles distant ; so
that the whole circle of your acquaintance is confined, as
it were, to one spot ; and you are in a similar situation
to a besieged town. In the third place, and what has
more weight than all the rest, the Spanish government
and I should not agree : so tyrannical a system of op-
pression, so domineering a conduct is pursued by these
petty governors, that I am very sure ere long I should be
sent to the mines for opposing them in the execution of
their unjust measures. The relation between the people
and these commandants, can be best explained by com-
paring them to a master and his scholars. For the more
the one affects the bashaw, the more the other submits
to his authority with degrading humiliation. I had fre-
quent opportunities of remarking this in my passage down
this river ; and, in fact, experienced some of their despotic
treatment, which I shall relate in due order.

266 JOURIfAL OF A TOUR.

Notwithstanding these objections, if a person has no
other object in view but to amass a little property to-
gether for the support of himself and family, and can
submit to the vexations and oppressions which so arbi-
trary a conduct must create, he may pass at least an easy
life at New Madrid ; for the soil is so prolific, and the
land of so little value, that he may with very little ex-
pense support his family.

While we were here, several Indians came to us to
trade, and we took in return from them deer and bear
skins, and beaver furs. These articles pass current at
this place as money ; that is, the regulated price of
sheared deer skins is 40 sous, or 2 livres, per lb. ; 120
sous, or 6 livres, per lb. for beaver, 4 dollars a piece for
otter, and ^ dollar a piece for raccoon skins ; and at these
prices they are a legal tender in all payments.

Saturday/, April 29th. — We dropped down the river
about a mile to the house of Dr. Waters, who is a man of
good education, and was present at the first settling of
the country ; he appeared to be heartily tired of the
place, and said he would leave it as soon as he could
arrange all his aff"airs. I saw nothing which could induce
him to stop so long here as he has done ; for he lived in
a most miserable tent, with scarcely any of the conve-
niences of life to make it comfortable. He practised the
three different professions of a doctor, a merchant, and a
farmer ; the two former of which he carried on in a little
room which served him for kitchen, shop, bedroom, and
every other purpose for which he might have occasion.
He had a number of negroes on his plantations, all of
whom were lodged in hovels, as is the custom in this
country. In fact, his whole situation and appearance

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 267

quite disgusted me with the place. Accordingly, leaving
him the next day, —

Sunday, April 30th, — we started about eight o'clock in
company with four other Orleans boats, which had arrived
at New Madrid whilst we were there. We agreed to
abide by each other, and to put ashore at the same place
every night ; the signal for which was made by the firing
of a gun from the boat which happened to be most ahead.
This she was to do when she saw a proper place to stop
at, which generally was round the corner of some of the
bends ; as there, the stream was slow, and generally a
willow shore, into which we could push our boat, and
protect ourselves from the wind and waves. Immediately
upon the signal being given, the hinder boats used to
make towards the foremost, and endeavour to anchor
(as we called it) close together ; and in this manner
we passed the night very pleasantly amongst ourselves,
making amends for the loss of friends and distant situa-
tion. In the daytime our attention would be taken up
by watching the sawyers, and keeping the boat from
dashing against the trees on the shore ; for this current
is so amazingly rapid, and its course so winding, that the
stream is continually washing one side or the other ; and
this, added to the overflowing of the banks, which draws
the water to the sides, renders the navigation of these
curves very dangerous. We have oftentimes had all
hands to the oars, striving with all our might to keep her
off from the trees which grew on the banks, the slightest
touch against which would have endangered her safety ;
and in this manner we have tugged till we have almost
been induced to give the matter up, as the boat would
not be perhaps above three feet the whole way from the

268 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

trunks of the trees ; and all that we were able to do was
to prevent her getting nearer. In this manner the trees
would seem to % past us ; but no sooner were we got
to the termination of the bend, and to the point of
land which formed a convex shore, than we were carried
with the same rapidity across the stream to the oppo-
site banks^ possessing the main river in safety. However,
no sooner than arrived there, we had to go through
the same exercise again. This was very fatiguing ; and
in fact could not be incessantly supported ; but after a
little while we acquired a method of keeping her in the
middle of the stream, by watching the moment she began
to vary, and thereby verifying the vulgar proverb, " A
stitch in time saves nine."

Monday, May \st. — By daylight this morning we heard
the busy hum of men murmuring around us, and by the
noise made in the different boats we found it was time
for us to be taking our departure ; accordingly the signal
was given, and instantly the cables were slipped, and
the boats pushed off from shore, and once more we hailed
the rising sun, whose joyful rays were scattering health
and peace over these delightful and majestically romantic
regions. Our course was where the stream carried us
through the most intricate mazes of innumerable islands,
which are scattered in such profusion throughout this
king of rivers, and whose banks are covered with a per-
petual verdure, tending at once to charm the imagination,
and to feast the eye. On the river itself (whose course
we could never see two miles before us, and it would some-
times appear to be terminated by the land, where it would
take a sudden turn, and double its mazy round) were
multitudes of wild fuwl of various descriptions. Here

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 269

we could see the pelicans of the wilderness flying in long
trains through the air, and at last lighting on the surface
of the river, proud of their double element. The eagle
and the vulture we could often see perched on the lofty
barren tree, looking about seeking what they might devour.
But what attracted my attention the most was the enor-
mous alligators which we saw basking in the sun on
logs near the shore. Here they would expose themselves,
lying with their monstrous jaws wide open, and appa-
rently asleep ; but not absolutely so. for on our approach
to them they would flounce suddenly into the water,
and scatter the foam to a considerable distance. These
animals are so well known to naturalists as to need no
description : suffice it to say, that their appearance is
enough to terrify the eyes of any beholder ; and dreadful
is their rage when attacked in the luater, which appears to
be their natural element ; but on the land an escape from
them is easily made, as their motion is very slow, and
they are incapable * of making a short turn.

This afternoon we passed two bluifs within ten or
twelve miles of each other, which appear eligible places
for towns, particularly the latter one, which we passed
about five o'clock. It is situated in the bend of the river,
which just here is very narrow ; it, therefore, could com-
mand the pass of it^ if at any time in the event of a
war it might be necessary. This place is called Prud-
homme in Hutchins's Map. A few miles below this place

* These animals make a tremendous howling, or rather bellow-
ing, when they first come out of the dens, or at the approach of bad
weather. I have heard them continue this during the whole
night, and that in such numbers, that it has been dismal to hear
them.

270 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

we put ashore ; the country quite overflowed ; no ventur-
ing out of our boat ; the longest setting poles we had
would not reach the bottom : and yet the lofty cotton-
trees with which the banks are lined did not appear to
be at all diminished in height, although so considerable a
part of their body was under water. In the morning, —

Tuesday, May 2nd, — about an hour after sunrise we
passed another blufi', which we suppose is called Middle
Cliff in Hutchins's Map. Here we saw a barge coming up
the river. We hailed it; but, they being Spaniards and
not understanding us, or else from being on the opposite
shore, they did not seem to show a disposition to come to
us. These barges are a kind of keel-boats, which are
rowed by fifteen or twenty men, and by keeping close
to the shores they avoid the strength of the current, and
sometimes are helped on by an eddy or counter current.
They perform a journey of a few miles a day, which
makes a passage by water up the stream very tedious
and fatiguing. At sunset we came to Chickasaw Bluffs,
called in Hutchins's Map, the Cliffs of Margot, and which
are about 130 miles from New Madrid. You will see by
my noting down every elevation of land, how remarkable
these appearances are, and what a flat country we have
been passing through. I may also observe, that all the
high lands are on the eastern side of the river ; and I
don't recollect that there was a single eminence of any
kind on the western side through the whole course of the
river : the land sometimes appears, but it is scarcely
elevated above the bed of the river, and does not con-
tinue for any great length.

At Chickasaw Bluffs there are about five or six families
settled, who may be called half-Indians ; that is, they

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 271

are persons who, in habit and manners, are nearly allied
to them, and have generally raarrieJ into the Indian
families. It is situated at the mouth of Wolfe river,
of which it forms the southern bank. The Spaniards
had lately a fort here, which they preserved merely to
keep their chain on this river ; but on account of the
treaty lately entered into with America, they agreed to
evacuate all their forts on the eastern side of the Missis-
sippi above the latitude of 31° north. And in conse-
quence of this agreement, they had destroyed this fort
and erected another on the shore immediately opposite,
and which was overflowed when we were there, or nearly
so. This tract of country belongs to the tribe of Chick-
asaw Indians, a warlike race, and one that preserves a
good understanding with America, which the latter is
obliged to keep up by presents sent annually to them.
Several of them appeared on the banks, and we went up
amongst them and walked about the place till dark.
They were very much dissatisfied with the Americans,
they said, for not sending them their accustomed presents
(which, owing to some delay, had not yet reached them).
This was the place where they should have been landed ;
and they said they had been waiting for them a long time,
and that every boat they saw they imagined to contain
them. We assured them that it was not a designed neglect
on our part (for I amongst the rest was obliged to pass for
an American) that they had not arrived sooner ; but that
it must have depended upon some unforeseen cause, which
would be fully explained when they arrived. They ap-
peared satisfied with our excuse, and told us, that the
reason that made them so impatient was, that they were
going to war with the Creek Indians, a party of whom

272 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

had approaclied within a few miles of one of their vil-
lages, and inhumanly killed some of their tribe. From
what I could gather amongst them, they were not all
unanimous in this quarrel ; for one of their chiefs (who
spoke tolerable English) told me that it was a proposi-
tion of some of the young warriors, and that the old men
had scarcely given their approbation. There always did
subsist an inveterate enmity between these two tribes ;
and this fresh depredation of the Creeks has only served
to revive a former grudge.

These Indians are a well-made, handsome race of men.
When we approached the shore, there were a number of
them sitting on the banks, and others standing at the top
of the hill, enjoying the mildness of the evening and the
beauty of the setting sun; others, perhaps attracted by
the presence of the boats, whose motions they watched
with an attentive eye. However, none of them came to
us, or seemed to stir from the place where we first saw
them ; which we observing, went out to them as soon as
we had made fast our boat, and they received us with
every mark of friendship and attention. The chief part
of them were dressed in printed calico shirts, which (to-
gether with what they call a breech-clout) formed the
whole of their dress, except a pair of mockasons, which
served them for shoes. These mockasons are made of
deer skins, which are smoked instead of tanned, and are
thereby rendered very soft and pleasant to the feet;
they are sowed together at the top with the sinews of
the deer, and are finished oftentimes in a very curious
manner with wampum and porcupine quills. They soon
oifered us the pipe of peace, of which each of us having
smoked a whifi" or two, our introduction to them was com-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 273

pleted, and thej began to trade with us, and show us
every thing worth j? of observation in the place.

Soon after we had been here, we observed a boat coming
across the river from the fort opposite, and presently Don
Grande (who with twelve men commands that place)
came on board us, attended by two or three of his sol-
diers, we supposed for the purpose of inspecting our pass-
ports. I had advised our party, (and to which all the
other boats agreed,) if he behaved insolently to us, to
treat him with contempt, or punish him for his impu-
dence, well knowing that the Spaniards had no right to
exact this submission on our part ; but that if he behaved
civilly, we should not only return it, but show him our
passports, at the same time giving him to understand that
it was not done through compulsion, but to avoid the
disagreeableness of a contest between us. As they were
mostly Kentuckians with us, who are all men of a fiery
temper and independent spirit, and who cannot bear the
least thing which appears like submission to an oppres-
sion, there was very little difficulty in bringing them to
this measure. However, there happened to be no cause
of alarm, as our haughty Don (as we conceived him)
proved to be a very sociable sort of a man, and we were
so far pleased with him, as to make him stop supper
with us, and after spending a very pleasant evening, he
retired across the river to rest. He informed us that the
reason the Spaniards had burnt the fort^^ was, that they
had built it merely on sufferance from the Indians, and
that on condition of demolishing it if ever they should

* The Spaniards had burnt and destroyed the fort on the
American side of the river, prior to their relinquishing the place,
according to treaty.

T

274 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

evacuate it, so that no other power might obtain posses-
sion. The next morning, —

Wednesday, May Srd, — we started from this place
about nine o'clock. A great many Indians were assem-
bled on the shore to see us depart ; others had taken
their guns, and were gone a hunting in the woods. The
wind was rather high, and we had not floated above an
hour, ere we were obliged to put ashore again, "We
stayed near an hour, and the wind abating a little, we
floated again. At night we came to again on the signals
being made, and the next day, —

Thursday/, Mai/ Uh, — we passed the river St. Francis,
about seventy miles from C. Bluffs. Our sight of its
mouth was cut off by some islands, among which we were
floating at the time we passed it, so that we don't
know exactly the time when we came to it. This is but
a small river, and rises a little way in the interior of
Louisiana ; and the banks just above its mouth are made
a resort for hunters, who often meet here both in going
out to hunt and in returning with their prey. It is an
old encamping ground, and on that account is made use
of by the hunters to get their things ready for their
journey into the country.

Saturday, May 6th. — We put ashore this evening, not
far from the river Arkansaw. This is a considerable
stream, and has its source not far from Santa Fe, in the
province of New Mexico. It runs through an immensely
rich and fertile country, and is said to be navigable for
batteaux for 700 or 800 miles. The Spaniards had a
fort about ten or twelve miles up this river, for the pur-
pose of defending the trade carried on with the Arkansaw
Indians. An inundation of the Mississippi some years

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 275

back caused the evacuation of this fort, and the establish-
ment of another on the north bank, about thirty-six miles
higher up. This fort is still kept up, and the Spaniards
are giving great encouragement to emigrants to settle there.
The Arkansaw discharges itself into the Mississippi bj
two mouths, the upper of which is called Riviere Blanche,
from its receiving a river of that name, which is said
to be navigable 600 miles, and the soil through which
it runs, equal in quality * to any in the Mississippi. The
Arkansaw is about 110 miles from the river St. Francis.

Tuesday, May 9^^^.— About half-past two o'clock in
the afternoon we passed the Yazou river, about 160 miles
from Arkansaw river. This stream rises high up in the
Cherokee country. It runs through a very fertile soil,
and empties itself into the Mississippi by a mouth about
100 yards wide. About sixteen miles up this river the
French had formerly a settlement, but it was destroyed
by the Yazou Indians in 1726. This tribe of Indians is
now entirely extinct. This is the river which has been
the bone of contention between the United States and
the Spaniards : the latter claiming the country to the
southward of it, as being included in the province of
West Florida, of which the Yazou was the northern boun-
dary ; and the Americans maintaining, on the other hand,
that the northern boundary of West Florida was the 31st
degree of north latitude. A great deal might be said in
support of both claims, though I think most in favour of
Spain ; however, as by the late treaty the Spaniards have
agreed to give it up, it will be needless to enter into an
unprofitable discussion of its merits.
About five o'clock we came to the Walnut Hills, called the

* Hutcliins.

T 2

276 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

Yazou Cliffs, in Hutchins's Map, twelve miles from Yazoii
river. Here there is a strong fort kept up by the Spaniards.
It is an irregular fortification, occupying a great part of
the hill on which it stands, which is very high and steep.
Here we ought to have put ashore to show our passport.
But though we submitted to this degradation in going
ashore at the forts established on the Spanish^ territory,
yet at this place (which was a fort established within the
American lines, and unlawfully kept possession of by the
Spaniards, in contradiction to the treaty lately concluded
between the two countries) we were determined to assert
our own rights, and not comply with so unjust and humilia-
ting a demand : accordingly, we floated by without taking
any notice of them ; and we had scarcely got opposite to
the fort, ere we had a gun fired at us, which was a signal
for us to heave to ; but we, regardless of their threats,
continued on, and by the rapidity of the stream were
wafted out of their sight ere they could load another
piece to bear upon us. The other boats in our company
who were behind, fearful that they should pay for our
contempt of the summons, obeyed the signal, and rather
than run the gauntlet of their pieces, put ashore. We
put ashore a little below this place, and were soon joined
by another of the boats which had made its escape from
under the fort.

Walnut Hills is a beautiful situation for a town, and
an advantageous one for a fort. There are two forts at
this place, one of them commands the other, being situated
upon an eminence behind it. The few houses which are
scattered around it, and the green bank on which they
stand, surrounded with flowering, verdant, and lofty trees,

* That is, on the western side of the Mississippi.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 277

presented at once a picturesque and romantic appearance
to our eyes, fatigued with the uniformity of the prospect
to which we had for so many miles been witness.

The weather being very fine, and the moon shining
very bright, and there being very few sawyers in the
river just here, we determined upon proceeding on our
journey, in order that we might get to the Grand Gulf
by the middle of the day, as being the most proper time
for passing that dangerous spot. Accordingly, having
taken each of us a nap, we got up about half-past twelve,
and having got our boats into the middle of the stream,
one part of our company kept their appointed watch, and
the other retired again to rest, and the same morning,
about eleven o'clock, —

Wednesdai/, May 10th, — we came to this perilous vor-
tex, which is the most dangerous place in the whole navi-
gation of the Mississippi. The river here is thrown up
with great impetuosity against the blufi" point of a rock,
which opposes its broad side to the current, and makes
it revolve upon its own course in numberless whirlpools,
into one of which if a boat gets, she is carried round
with an astonishing rapidity, like a whirligig, and be-
comes totally unmanageable ; so that if the direction of
the vortex happens to be towards the rock, she must
inevitably be dashed to pieces. The river then makes
a very sharp turning round a point of land directly
opposite the rock, and runs a course immediately con-
trary to the one it before pursued. The way to escape
this place, and pass in safety through its terrors, is to
keep the boat exactly in the middle between the current
which runs towards the rock, and the eddy or counter-
current which runs near the point ; for, in all these

278 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

places there is a counter-current runs along the opposite
shore ; into which if you happen to get, you are carried
back, and have to go through the same trials and difficul-
ties a second time. This difficulty, then, we endeavoured
to surmount; and to do it required our constant pre-
sence at the oars, and a steady attention to the com-
mands of the person who undertakes to conduct her,
and who is upon the top of the boat, observing the
course of the numerous currents. Happily, two of our
company had passed it before, and were, therefore, some-
what acquainted with its navigation. To them we con-
sequently entrusted the management ; and by their steady
attention, we had no sooner arrived at the critical point,
than we shot through it all in safety, like an arrow
from a bow, or like a body precipitated from a mill-tail.
Grand Gulf is about fifty miles from Walnut Hills.

At one o'clock, p.m., we came to Bayou Pierre. This
is a little stream which rises up in the district of the
Natchez ; and upon the head waters of which, there
are some settlements, which form part of that district;
there were also two or three plantations at its mouth.
Here we went ashore in our canoe, and got some eggs
and milk, which were acceptable to us who had been so
long deprived of every luxury of this kind. The land
here was very nearly overflowed, being very few inches
above the level of the river. The inhabitants told me
they never remembered the river so high. We did not
stop here many minutes, as our boat passed by as swift
as lightning, and we were obliged to make the best of
our way to catch her before she arrived at the Little
Gulf, which is a place, in its situation and effect, some-
what like the Grand Gulf, only on a smaller scale. Its

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 279

danger also is scarcely any in high water; but when the
river is low there are some strong eddies which ought to
be avoided. It is about ten or twelve miles from Bayou
Pierre. The next morning, —

Thursday, May Wth, — about twelve o'clock we arrived
at Natchez, sixty miles from Bayou Pierre. This is the
capital of the district which goes under this name. It
is situated upon a high hill, which terminates in a bluff
at the river, and consists of about eighty or ninety
houses scattered over a great space of land. The streets
are laid out upon a regular plan; but there is so much
ground between most of the houses, that it appears
as if each dwelling was furnished with a plantation.
There is a fort upon an eminence near the river, which
commands both the town and the Mississippi ; but it is
in a ruinous condition, and could not be defended against
a regular attack. The governor of this place is Don
Manuel Gayoso de Lemos, a man who (for a Spaniard) is
said to have behaved tolerably well in his office ; but let
every one speak well of the bridge which carries him
safe over. On our approach to the shore, we had the
pleasure of beholding the American colours flying on the
banks. Agreeably to the treaty entered into between
Spain and America, the former agreed to evacuate and give
up all the country to the eastward of the Mississippi, which
was to the north of the 31st degree of north latitude, in
which the district of Natchez is included; and the com-
missioners for determining the precise point where the
31st degree of latitude commenced, and for running the
line which was to be the boundary between the two coun-
tries, were (agreeably to the treaty) to meet at Natchez;
and as soon as it was ascertained what forts were to

280 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

the northward of that line, they were to be evacuated.
Mr. Ellicot, the commissioner on the part of America,
had been here ever since ; and as it was pretty well
known that Natchez would fall to the side of the Ameri-
cans, Lieutenant Pope was sent down with a party of men
to take possession of the fort as soon as the Spaniards
should evacuate it. The latter had, some little while
back, shown a disposition to give them up, and had ac-
tually removed several of the cannon down to the boats
appointed for their reception, both at this fort and at the
Walnut Hills; (which was still more to the northward;)
and they had even destroyed the fort at Chickasaw bluffs,
as I have before mentioned. But on the appearance of a
rupture between the United States and France, (with the
latter of whom Spain was in alliance,) they suddenly
countermanded these orders, and the governors were in-
structed to replace the cannon, and put the garrison in a
posture of defence, and not deliver up the forts. It was
under this aspect of things that Mr. Ellicot and Lieute-
nant Pope arrived; and instead of finding an amicable
disposition in the governor to give up the fort, and to
proceed to the determining of the line, he absolutely re-
fused the former, and by unnecessary delays protracted
the latter. However, as Lieutenant Pope could not go
counter to his orders, he landed his men, and, march-
ing them up the hill, took possession of an eminence
immediately opposite the fort, and there, hoisting the
American flag, he encamped his men; and it was in this
situation that I found him when I was introduced to him
by Mr. Ellicot, whom I had known at Pittsburgh. He
informed me that Gayoso sent to him, soon after he had
been there, to strike his colours, saying, he had no right

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 281

to hoist them on the Spanish territory. On his refusing
so to do, he threatened to send and cut down the flag-
staff; but on Lieutenant Pope's assuring him that he
would defend his colours to the utmost, Gayoso gave up
the contest.

This district has been settled principally by English
and Americans; and though the country was given up to
the Spaniards in 1783, the proportion of Spanish inhabit-
ants is very small. To persons brought up under a form
of government to which the English and Americans have
been accustomed, the Spanish government must be an in-
tolerable yoke. They depend in all their civil and crimi-
nal affairs upon the whim or caprice, favour or folly of
an upstart Spaniard who is set over them as their governor,
and who, through pique or malice, or in a fit of drunken-
ness or insanity, has it in his power to sport with the
lives and property of those persons over whom he is placed
for the ostensible purpose of protection. Abusing this trust
in the most shameful and despotic manner, as they often
do, even to hazard of the safety of the inhabitants, it is
no wonder that the people composing the district received
with pleasure the news of the territory being delivered
up to the Americans, and that they should soon get rid of
their haughty masters, under whom they had suffered so
many hardships and inconveniences ; and that they saw,
with regret, mixed with the greatest resentment, a dispo-
sition on the part of Spain to violate the treaty, and not
to deliver up the fort, together with the country. This
just resentment was carried to a great pitch whilst I was
here, and broke out in open acts of violence several
times; and at last proceeded so far as to induce the
governor to retire into the fort, and to call upon all the

282 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

people attached to his person to come to him, and defend
themselves against the designs of these evil-disposed men
(as he denominated them). There were about a dozen
flocked to his standard ; as to the rest of the district,
thej surrounded the fort, and kept his Excellency pri-
soner there near a fortnight, and would not let him come
out at last, till he had signed articles of capitulation ;
which articles"' are as in the annexed note^ and clearly
indicate how determined the inhabitants were to main-
tain their just rights. To particularize all the incidents
which took place at this period relative to this subject
would fill a volume ; thej are all sufficiently related in the
reports of the Secretary of State to the Congress.

* These propositions were: —

" 1st. — That the inhabitants of the district of Natchez (who,
under the belief and persuasion that they were citizens of the
United States, agreeably to the late treaty, have assembled and
embodied themselves) are not to be prosecuted or injured for
their conduct on that account, but to stand exonerated and.
acquitted.

" 2nd. — The inhabitants of the government aforesaid, above the
31st degree of north latitude, are not to be embodied as militia,
nor called upon to aid in any military operation, except in case of
an Indian invasion, or for the suppression of riots during the
present state of uncertainty, owing to the late treaty between the
United States and his Catholic Majesty not being carried fuUy
into eflfect.

"3rd. — The laws of Spain in the above district shall be continued,
and on all occasions be executed with mildness and moderation;
nor shall any of the inhabitants be transported as prisoners out of
this government on any pretext whatever; and notwithstanding
the operation of the law aforesaid is hereby admitted, yet the in-
habitants shall be considered to be in an actual state of neu-
trality during the continuance of their uncertainty, as mentioned
in the second proposition."

JOURNAL OF A TO'JR. 283

The town of Natchez is situated in north latitude
31'' 33' 46",* and west longitude 6^ 5' 57" from Green-
wich : the whole district may contain about 5,000 inhabit-
ants. The houses are chiefly framed buildings ; but, though
this country has been settled so long, there is all that inat-
tention to neatnesss, cleanliness, and the comforts attend-
ing thereon, that there is in a country just cleared. I
have seen houses in this place (and those possessed by
persons assuming a degree of consequence in the country)
scarcely furnished beyond the first stage of civilization,
when a few boards nailed together have served for a bed-
stead, and a mattress covered with a few blankets for a
bed, when there has been scarcely a chair to sit down
upon, or a table to place anything on, but everything
in the greatest confusion and disorder about the room.
This, to be sure, is not universally so : on the contrary, I
have seen others fitted up in the neatest manner possi-
ble ; but then in the greatest plainness, without any of
those luxuries which decorate even the cottages of our
English farmers. The climate f is delightful, though in the

* ElKcot, in his Journal, says 48".

t According to Mr. Ellicot's Journal, on the 1st December,
1797, the thermometer was as high as 78", but he does not mention
the time of the day.

On the 2nd, at sunrise, it -was at 50°, and fell to 47°

— 3rd,

ditto,

ditto

22°,

and rose

to 35°

— 4th,

ditto,

ditto

18°,

33°

— 5th,

ditto,

ditto

20°,

37°

— 6th,

ditto,

ditto

18°,

39°

— 11th,

ditto,

ditto

40°,

60°

— 12th,

ditto,

ditto

52°,

75°

— 13th,

ditto,

ditto

60°,

75°

— 14th,

ditto,

ditto

63°,

75°

— 22nd Jan., 1798,

ditto

67°,

76°

— 23rd,

ditto,

ditto

22°,

46°

— 24th,

ditto.

ditto

18",

49"

— 26th,

ditto,

ditto

66°,

—

76°

284 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

summer I think somewhat too warm, the thermometer
being here in June as high as 107°. Ice is not known
here, and snow but seldom, and then verj thin, and
soon goes off. Its situation is pleasant, being the uneven
surface of the top of a high hill, which commands a fine
view of the Mississippi for a considerable way, as well as
of the country. From the point next the river you may
look upon the borders of the water, and see the alligator
prowling along amongst the bushes and brambles which
are in the bottom, and at times uttering the most dismal
bowlings. These animals, whose hides are impervious by
a musket-ball, are sometimes caught by the Indian by
a manoeuvre truly his own : — He goes armed with a
strong hiccory stick, about two feet long, barbed at each
end, and which he holds in the middle as tight as possi-
ble. In the other hand he takes some article of food to
attract them, and to induce them to open their enormous
mouths to obtain it, and which the Indian holds out to
them ; but no sooner does the alligator make the attempt
to seize it, than the Indian snatches that arm away, and
presents the other furnished with this double dart. The
alligator, unconscious of this, closes his mouth upon his sup-
posed prey ; and unable to extricate himself or open his
jaws, the Indian drags him to shore, amidst the applause
and acclamation of the spectators who stand by admiring
the daring act. The roads about here are \&tj good, consi-
dering there is no attention paid to them ; the usual
mode of travelling is on horseback ; and as there are no
public- houses, a spirit of hospitality is kept up between
all neighbours. This hospitality, which is only shown
amongst neighbours, or the friends of neighbours, I shall
more fully treat upon, when I come to touch upon the

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 285

manners and customs of the Americans in general ; (for
Americans I still consider these people ;) though I shall
touch upon the state of society and mode of living when I
come to take leave of the district. There is a great deal
of cotton raised in this district, which is sent down the
river to New Orleans : it is of the nature of Georgian
cotton. There are several jennies erected in the neigh-
bourhood, in order to extricate the seed from the cotton.
There is one immediately in the town on the banks of
the river, belonging to Minor and Scott, worked by two
horses, which will give 500 lbs. of clear cotton in a day.
They have one-eighth part for their trouble. The seed-
cotton loses three-fourths of its weight by jenning. Very
good tobacco and rice is raised here, but in no consider-
able quantity.

There are two or three places here which go under the
denomination of Taverns, and where you may get accom-
modated with board and lodging. I put up at one of
them, (at which there was a billiard table kept) and
paid my landlord a dollar per day, which was enormous,
considering the fare ; for provisions are not very plenty
in this province, at least, if we judge from the prices.
Imported articles must come high ; but I think it possible
that their markets might be better supplied than they
are ; in fact, I have no doubt but they will when the
American mode of government comes to be adminis-
tered, and the persons and property of the inhabitants to
be protected, and full encouragement given to industry
in all its forms. Looking forward to this time, we may
pronounce this district to be the most flourishing in the
south-west territory; and the town of Natchez far to
excel every other on the banks of the Mississippi. The

286 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

land around is of an excellent quality ; and by the near
port of New Orleans, it has an easy mean of exporting
its produce, and receiving in return such articles of foreign
manufacture as may be most in demand. Land in the
country is sold for about a dollar an acre : a five-acre
lot close to the town sold for 150 dollars. Dr. Watrous
(our fellow-passenger) bought a lot of 150 acres of un-
cleared land near the town for four dollars per acre, and
it was thought cheap. The article of land must never-
theless depend in its value upon its relative situation and
advantages, as well as upon its quality . Upon the whole,
I think this an excellent place for a person to settle in,
(when it comes under the government of the United States,)
if he can bring himself to give up the advantages of refined
society; though I don't know that this remark is more par-
ticularly needful here than in all young countries : on
the contrary, I know several persons here, both Spanish
and English, whose conversation and company have been
interesting and amusing. Slavery is permitted by the
Spanish government, and no doubt will be continued by
the Americans, till they have adopted some measure for
the utter annihilation of it from the country.

Of the Spanish government in itself I shall make no
remark till I relate all together my opinion on it from
New Orleans, I shall only mention a circumstance relat-
ing to myself, which will set in a strong point of view
the oppressive and domineering conduct of the Spanish
governors, as well as inform you of the hazardous situa-
tion I have been in.

The secretary of the government (one Joseph Vidal, a
Spaniard) had purchased of me the remainder of those
goods which I had, after trading with the Indians, amount-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 287

ing to about 680 pesos ;* these he was to pay me for
immediately, but when I called on him for the money, he
offered me in payment a certificate to nearly the amount.
These certificates are a species of paper-money drawn by
the commanders of the different forts on this river on
the treasury at New Orleans, and are paid away to work-
men, soldiers, &c., instead of money, and are received by
the merchants as such ; so that they are a kind of bank
notes t received upon the faith of government, though it
must be observed that oftentimes there is no great sum
of money in the treasury, and these certificates are re-
turned unpaid, so that they generally bear a discount :
and this discount is proportioned to the degree of confi-
dence put in the prospect of getting the money. It hap-
pened that they bore at this time a discount of 12 per
cent., and yet this unreasonable rascal wanted me to
take them at their full value, which I, of course, refused,
and wished him to pay me in cash. He at first seemed to
hesitate, and said that he would try if he could get it
discounted ; but on ray calling again, said he was under
the necessity of telling me I must take it as cash ; and
as I found all means to induce him to the contrary were
of no avail, I appealed to the governor. I have before
hinted that the governors are all, directly or indirectly,
concerned in a contraband trade, and I had every reason
to believe that he was connected with Vidal, in this
instance ; I therefore did not much flatter myself with
the prospect of success. However, I went to him, and
told him my tale : as a boy at school would go to the
master, and complain of the improper conduct of any of

* A p6so is about a dollar.

t Similar to what our navy bills used to be formerly.

288 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

his companions, and if the master thought proper he
would punish him ; otherwise, he would dismiss him with
impunity. Gayoso listened to me very patiently, and as
he had heard it all from Yidal prior to my relation, he
had made up his mind what decision to give ; he said
that the certificates were a legal tender, and that I could
not refuse them. I was surprised to hear this notorious
falsehood from a person so high in office ; and finding
that there was no prospect of obtaining justice here, I
told him my determination of carrying the case before
the Baron de Carondelet at New Orleans, who is the
Commander-in-Chief of the province of Louisiana, and
for this purpose wished him to give me his decision in
writing, with his hand and seal annexed. At this he
seemed very angry, and threatened me with what he would
do if I made an improper use of the papers, or went to
misrepresent them. I soon appeased him, or at least
apparently so, when I set forth the justice of my claim,
and my indifference about his anger ; and I afterwards
asked him how I might obtain his decision. He told me
that the formal way was to draw up a state of the case
in the manner of a petition praying for redress, and that
he would write underneath his decree. Accordingly I
drew up a paper, and delivered it to him. He did not
seem to like the contents of it ; for though I had taken
care to flatter his vanity by some expressions in it, yet
he evidently saw that the case was stated too clearly to
admit of a doubt of the justice of it ; and, I believe, he
was almost ashamed to annex so shameful and illegal a
decision to it as he has done ; particularly when he un-
derstood that I had consulted Mr. Ellicot and Lieutenant
Pope on my plan, and that they had determined to sup-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 289

port me in my claim, at least, so far as regarded the
carrying that part of the treaty into effect which I had
there claimed. Finding no notice taken, in his decision,
of the law which made these certificates a legal tender,
I went to him and asked him to point out, and show me
the law by which he was guided ; and I never shall forget
the looks of the man at this (what he called impertinent)
question ; for, wondering at my assurance, and threaten-
ing me with the horrors of the Callibouse* if I any longer
disputed his authority, he laid his hand upon his breast
and told me that he was the law ; and that as he said the
case was to be determined. I could not help laughing
at the insulting effrontery of the man when he made this
speech, at which he seemed more than ever enraged ; and,
I believe, had it not been for the neighbouring situation of
the American commissioner and commander, together with
the general revolting spirit of the district, that I should
have been hurried off to immediate imprisonment, if not
to the mines. The anger of a Spaniard is so implacable
and malicious, that he will leave no stone unturned to ac»
complish his revenge, even to the act of assassination. Un-
der this idea, and by the advice of my friends here, who had
known instances of their hateful temper, I always went
guarded, and at night never slept but with a pair of pistols
under my pillow ; for as my door faced the road,f it was
an easy thing to break it open, and (hurrying me down
the river) to elude all search which would have been

* The Callibouse is the state prison,

t My bedroom door opened immediately on the road. For
you should bear in mind that the houses here are built somewhat
after the Chinese style, — seldom more than a ground-floor, and the
doors of most of the apartments opening from the street.

U

290 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

made for me. However, this did not deter me from pur-
suing my cause, for I was determined on having justice if
it was to be found in the country ; accordingly, I went to
the governor once more, and told him that I wished to
protest against receiving the certificates. He said that he
could not' enter any protest against the king's money, as
he called it. I then told him that I wished Vidal should
pay the money in his presence, and that I had appointed
Mr. Ellicot and two other witnesses to be present at the
transaction. At this he began to grow angry, and told
me I must not pretend to dictate to him what to do ;
and that he should suffer nothing of the kind. However,
I pursued my claim in due form and order, and sent in
a petition to see whether he would have the assurance
to deny me this just and reasonable request. I was
present when it was delivered in, and heard him mutter
something about the stubbornness of the American cha-
racter. In that petition I prayed that Vidal might be
ordered to discharge his debt before the governor, and
that three witnesses of my own appointment might be
present thereto, agreeably to the provision made in the
treaty. However, as soon as the petition was read to him,
he called in three of the officers of his household, together
with Vidal ; and after explaining the nature of the busi-
ness to them, opened a kind of court for the decision of
the case. I asked him if the witnesses I had nominated
were not to be present ; and he, answering in the negative,
addressed himself to me, and asked me whether I was
willing and ready to receive the money. Upon which I
turned to him, and said, " Sir, you are making a mockery
of justice ; I shall not answer you till my witnesses are
admitted : " and immediately quitted the court, leaving

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 291

them to brood over their own iniquity, and to stare with
stupid astonishment upon each other. The next day I
called to see what they had done with my petition, and
found the governor's refusal of the prayer of it written
at full length at the bottom, together with a minute of
my having so precipitately left the court. I immediately
communicated the contents to Mr. EUicot, and he* assured
me that he would send the particulars in his next dis-
patches to the secretary of the United States ; and inform
him with how little ceremony the Spaniards treat the
American citizens ; and with what indifference they can
break the most solemn treaties.

The boat which brought me down here having sold all
its flour at this place, and the proprietors intending to
return to their own homes through the wilderness, I was
obliged to look out for another conveyance to take me to
New Orleans, which is about 300 miles down the river ;
and from that place I had no doubt but that I should
meet with a vessel to take me round to New York. This
circumstance detained me here till

Thursday, June 1st, — when a boat laden with cotton
(among which was some belonging to myself, which 1 had
purchased hero) being ready to go down, I waited on
my old friend the governor once more, in order to get
my passport to proceed to New Orleans. I had been
advised by several of my friends, not to trust myself any
farther into the Spanish territories ; they assuring me
that there was no doubt but that Gayoso had represented

* Mr. EUicot was as good as his word ; for I found (on my return
to the United States) that his representation of my case formed
part of the report of the Secretary of State to Congress on the affairs
of Spain.

U 2

292 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

the whole of my conduct in the strongest colours possible
to the Baron de Carondelet ; and that I might be taken by
surprise there, when I should be deprived of the aid and
support of the American commissioner and commander,
to whom I have great reason to think that I owe my
personal safety. I communicated these suggestions to
Mr. Ellicot, and he allowed the full force of them, but at
the same time assured me, that in case of any attack
upon my person, he would hold Vidal as an hostage till
I was safely returned. Under this confidence I applied
to the governor for my passport, which he immediately
made out, glad enough (I believe) to get rid of so trouble-
some a visitor : it was couched in these words, —

"Natchez, 2Qth de Mayo, de 1797.

" Concedo libre y segaro pasaporte a Don Francisco Bailly
para que pase a la Neuva Orleans por Agna. Pido y encargo no se
le ponga embarazo.

"Manuel Gayoso de Lemos."
We had got all our things ready in the morning, and
about half-past five in the afternoon we started. The
boat belonged to one Mr. Douglass ; he had bought it on
purpose for the freight of cotton to New Orleans, which
is one dollar and a half per bag ; sometimes it is two dol-
lars. A bag contains from 150 to 250 pounds; and a
boat will carry 200 or 300 bags, according to its size.

Soon after we had left the shore, we quitted that high
country which borders immediately upon the Natchez,
and got once more into the flat level country we had been
so long used to in our passage down the river. We did
not proceed far this evening, for we came to at sunset,
a few miles below the town. However, the mosquitos
which infest the shores were so tormenting, that we could

JOURNAL OF A TOUK. 293

obtain no rest; we therefore determined rather to risk
the dangers of the navigation in the night than suffer so
intolerable a vexation ; for it must be observed, that they
do not frequent the middle parts of the river, but merely
near the shore, under cover of the trees. We therefore
broke loose from our moorings about twelve o'clock, and
(having set our resjDective watches) we continued to float
ail night, and when morning appeared, —

Friday, June 2nd, — found ourselves considerably ad-
vanced in our journey, and by sunset the same day came
to Ued River (Riviere Rouge). This is a considerable
stream, and has its name from its waters being of a red-
dish colour, and which are said to tinge those of the Mis-
sissippi at the time of the floods. Its source is in New
Mexico, and runs about 600 miles. Black River (Riviere
Noire) empties itself into this stream about thirty miles
from its confluence with the Mississippi. The famous
Ferdinando Soto ended his discoveries and his life at
the entrance of this river, and was buried there. Near
seventy leagues up this river the French had a consider-
able port called Natchitoches. It was a frontier on the
Spanish settlement, being only twenty miles from the
fort Adaies. The French fort was garrisoned by a cap-
tain's command. There were forty families settled here,
consisting mostly of discharged soldiers, and some mer-
chants* who traded with the Spaniards. Up this river
the traders who are bound to New Mexico proceed^ as
it saves them a considerable journey by land, and is the
nearest stream that enters that province, running through
the whole breadth of Louisiana.

* Hutchins.

294 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

About a league below the mouth of the Red River, we
came to the Chefalaya. This is the uppermost mouth of
the Mississippi, and after ruuning through one of the most
fertile regions in the world, discharges itself into the Bay
of St. Bernard, a considerable distance to the westward of
the other mouths of the Mississippi. This is a current
which must be carefully avoided by boats coming down
this river, and they must take care to keep well over to
the left shore; for, if they get within the suck of the
stream, (which flows into this channel with great rapidity,)
they will be driven into a country from which it is pro-
bable they would not escape. There being no settle-
ments on this branch, and the country being entirely
overflowed at the time of the floods, the boat must be
driven out to sea, or it must stop till the river has
fallen, and the waters retired within its banks ; and then
you may escape by land to the nearest settlement, but
your property must inevitably remain where you left
it, as it would be impossible to bring it back against
the current, unless at an enormous expense and labour.
The stream pours down this channel in the greatest con-
fusion imaginable, marking out (almost at every inunda-
tion) a fresh course ; and in many places its navigation
is quite obstructed by logs, trees, &c., which are brought
down in great quantities.

Having passed this place in safety, we came the next
day, about noon, — •

Saturday, June 3rd, to Point Coupee, where there is
a large settlement scattered along the right shore. We
came to on the opposite bank on account of wind. This
is the spot where, it is said, some Canadians diverted the
course of the river by digging a new channel, whence its

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 295

name. This report I shall take notice of when I come to
treat of the Mississippi in general.

From Natchez to this place, the banks on each side of
the river present the same uniform appearance to which
we had been accustomed in the upper part of it; but
from hence to New Orleans, the country at intervals
began to assume a more cultivated appearance, particu-
larly after we had passed the next settlement, which was
Baton Rouge, and where we arrived the next day, —

Sunday, June Uh. — This settlement is on the Florida
side of the Mississippi, and there is a fort kept here for
its protection by the Spaniards. The commandant hailed
us to come ashore and show our passports ; accordingly,
we sent our canoe with a couple of men to the fort, who
soon returned again with the commandant's* permission to
pass. We put ashore this evening at sundown in the
mouth of a little creek where the dry land appeared on
each side. I went out with my gun in the canoe to the
land, and had a most pleasing ramble in the woods,
through one of the richest countries the eye ever beheld.
I could not venture far, as the evening was much ad-
vanced, I therefore directed my steps in the most speedy
manner to the boat, and having tarried all night, in the
morning —

Monday, Junebth, — about sunrise we started again;
and from this place to New Orleans, our eyes were conti-
nually feasted by the prospect of one uninterrupted chain
of plantations, scattered at unequal distances along the
shore. This immense river also, which was higher here
than the surrounding country, was kept from overflowing
these plantations by a raised hank, called a levee, which

* We were now withiu the Si^anish territories.

296 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

formed a fine broad walk immediately on tlie border of
the river, and in many places was planted with orange
and lemon trees. This happy mixture of nature and art
was very enchanting to the sight, particularly as it pre-
sented a scene so totally new and unlooked-for by us.
In this delightful spot, where every thing seemed to be
produced without any effort of art, I could not but fancy
myself as wafted along the gentle bosom of the Nile,
and that this fertile and inundated country was in the
immediate vicinity of Grand Cairo, or some other opulent
city. I could scarcely imagine that I was on the surface
of a river which had flowed nearly 3,000 miles, and
scarcely beheld the face of man, much less washed the
feet of his habitation, and that had barely 200 miles
farther to go ere it would be for ever lost as a name in
the great body of the ocean. This appearance of cultiva-
tion I afterwards found was not extended into the interior
of the country^ but merely on the borders of the river;
for all the country behind these settlements is still over-
grown with woods and possessed by wild beasts; and
there is seldom an instance of there being one settlement
formed at the back of another, except in the immediate
vicinity of New Orleans.

As the weather was remarkably serene and mild, and
no danger to be apprehended from the sawyers, the river
being too high, we determined to proceed all night, parti-
cularly as we should not only avoid the tormenting and
distracting harass of the mosquitos, but at the same time
enjoy one of the finest landscapes the pen can describe,
or the imagination conceive, — this was no less than the
addition of the moon to set off this enchanting scene, and
whose effect we had before thought incapable of being

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 297

heightened. The gibbous moon had just then peeped
above the tops of the highest trees. All nature seemed
to join in the solemnity of the scene; the rapid cur-
rent, beating with impetuous violence against the half-
overflowed trees, roared like a torrent along the raised
shore; the deep-toned bullfrog, and the still more deeply
thundering alligator, returned their hollow sounds in
many a hideous and dismal howl. This noble river
too, whose bosom, smooth and unrufiled, reflected the
yellow beams of the goddess of night, contributed itself,
in a great measure, to the majesty and magnificence of
the whole. Every where that I cast my eyes I beheld
marks of the industry of man, which formed a happy and.
a striking contrast of the works of art to those of nature.
On either side he had formed bounds for this immense
body of water, confining within its own banks a stream
which, in its long circuitous course, had inundated the
whole country, and saying to it, " Thus far shalt thou
come, and no farther." On the shore, the little huts of
the hard-working slaves, crowded together in one corner of
the plantation, formed a striking, though a detested, con-
trast to the splendid mansion of his unfeeling master.
" Alas ! '' cried I (turning myself from this reflecting
scene of woe, and addressing myself to yon shining lumi-
nary)— "alas! fair goddess, how many revolving courses
shalt thou measure out, ere thou shalt behold this hor-
rible distinction lost and forgotten? * ^ '''' ^ ^^
You must excuse this rhapsody ; but, as the season
seemed peculiarly fitted for reflection, and you know I
have ever held the slave-trade in the utmost abhorrence,
you must be content to receive such thoughts and obser-
vations as immediately strike me at the time. How-

298 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

ever, I shall not detain you longer on this point, for it
would be impossible to describe all the different scenes
and landscapes which continued to present themselves at
this silent hour of the night, and which were hurried
from our sight by the rapidity of the stream almost as
soon as observed.

Having thus gratified my curiosity for a few hours,
during a time that the rest of my companions were
buried in sleep, I retreated under the cover of the boat,
and laid me down to rest ; and about an hour after sun-
rise the next morning, —

Tuesday/, June 6 th, — we arrived at New Orleans, the
capital of the province of Louisiana, and a place of con-
siderable trade. New Orleans is built immediately on
the banks of the Mississippi ; and on the eastern side of
it, there is an eddy which runs along the bank, which
is of advantage to boats stopping here; because, as soon
as they get into this, they are .in no danger of being
carried down by the rapidity of the stream, which is
sometimes the case if they do not get into the eddy in
time ; and in such an event they may be carried a great
way below the town, without being able to return.
Having fastened the boat to the shore, we were soon
waited upon by an officer for our passports, which, as soon
as we had delivered up, we were suffered to depart where
we pleased ; and happening accidentally to meet a gentle-
man whom I had seen at the Natchez, I went with him,
and took up my lodgings at the same house that he did.
Our first entrance into the house was through a hall
which looked immediately into the street, and which had
curtains to supply the place of doors. I was then shown
into a large saloon, where there were thirty or forty

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 299

gentlemen at breakfast, with all the doors and windows
wide open, for though it was so early it was very hot.
Here I recollected a number of faces that I had seen
before in my travels, and which to meet again in an
unknown and foreign country was a double satisfaction
to me. Having been informed that I could be accommo-
dated with board and lodging here, I took my seat at the
table, and joined them in their repast. As they were
chiefly Americans who boarded here, our fare and accom-
modations were a great deal in the American style, which,
as I have already described, I shall not farther trouble
you with. The house was kept by Madame Chabot, an
Irish lady, but who had married a French man in this
country, by whom she had an agreeable daughter about
sixteen or seventeen years old. After breakfast I called
on Mr. Clarke, and delivered him my papers relative to
Governor Gayoso and Yidal, in order to lay before the
Baron de Carondelet, the Commander-in-chief of this
province. This he promised me to do ; but at the same
time informed me that there was such a good under-
standing (as he called it) kept up between the governors
of the difi'erent districts, and they so supported each
other in all their measures, whether right or wrong, that
it was improbable that I should obtain satisfaction*
However, as I was determined to try how far Spanish
rascality and injustice could proceed, I requested him to
comply with my request, and press for a speedy decision,
as I was in haste to proceed homewards. This he said he
would do, and I then left him and went round the town, to
take a view of its buildings, forts, &c,, &c. ; and as it will
be unnecessary to try you with the observations of every
day, I shall sum up the whole by this general description.

300 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

New Orleans is laid out upon Penn's plan ; that
is, with the streets, (which are rather narrow) crossing
each other at right angles : it contains fifteen rows of
streets from north-east to south-west, and seven rows
in the opposite direction ; and the whole area of the city
may be about three hundred acres. Owing to the irregu-
larity of the fortification which surrounds this city, all
the streets are not of an equal length. The whole area
is not entirely built over, as many squares on the north-
west end of the town are void of houses. The principal
site for buildings is as near the water as possible, as
being more convenient for trade, &c. ; and houses on this
spot will let for more money than those farther back
from the Mississippi. Fronting the river, and at an equal
distance from each end of the town, there is a public
square, which is left vacant, as well for the purpose of
beauty and ornament, as to expose to view a church
which stands at the farther end of it. This church is a
plain brick building of the Ionic order ; and is fitted up
within in nearly the same style that all Roman Catholic
chapels are. It no farther attracts the attention than
as being the best edifice in the place. Not far from the
square in which this church stands is the government-
house, a plain edifice, in which the governor of the pro-
vince resides : it stands facing the water at the corner of
a street ; it is built (as many houses in this place are)
with open galleries facing the street, and is surrounded
at the back by a garden. At an equal distance from
the church, on the opposite side, and immediately fac-
ing the water, is a magazine of stores : it is capable of
holding sufficient for the defence of the place ; but, at
the time I was there, was very ill supplied. At the

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 301

eastern corner of the city are the barracks, which are
built facing the river : they are a plain building, and
appeared capable of holding a considerable quantity of
men, though the exact number I could not understand.
Immediately adjoining the barracks is the convent, which
is another very plain edifice, and holds about thirty or
forty nuns. A number of the female children of the
inhabitants of this place are sent here to be educated,
and many of them are so fond of the mode of living, &c.,
that at the proper age they have voluntarily taken the
veil. This convent takes up a great space of ground,
and has a large garden adjoining to it. I have already
observed to you that the Mississippi is kept from over-
flowing its banks by reason of a mound of earth thrown
up along the shore. This mound is called a levee, and
varies in its height from two to three, or even four feet,
according to the surface of the shore. It commences at
Detour desAnglois (English Turn), a distance of eighteen
miles below N'ew Orleans, and is carried along the banks
of the river as far as the German settlements, which
are about thirty miles above N'ew Orleans, making in
the whole near fifty miles. This bank is of consider-
able width in some places, so as to form a handsome
broad walk, and is kept up by the owners of the plan-
tations, who are answerable for any mischief caused by
the breaking down of the banks, if through their neglect.
These levees are continued, if necessary, round the
whole of the plantation, so that in time of high-water
the surface of the surrounding river is considerably
above the plantation, which seems to lie in a bed within
it. This was the case when I was at New Orleans, and
the whole of this city was considerably helow the bed of

302 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

the river. The levee which formed its boundary here
was a handsome raised gravel walk, planted with orange-
trees ; and in the summer-time served for a mall, and in
an evening was always a fashionable resort for the beaux
and belles of the place. I have enjoyed many an even-
ing's promenade here, admiring the serenity of the climate,
and the majestic appearance of this noble river, which
seemed to roll in silent dignity at our feet, inattentive to
the idle gabble that was uttered on its banks.

The space between the lev6e and the front row of houses
was occupied as a kind of market by that miserable class
of men who even here swarm in great numbers, — I mean,
the unfortunate blacks. Here they were suffered to fix
their little stalls, and retail the several articles they had
to vend, whereby to raise a scanty pittance, to enable
them to make their miserable lot more comfortable, and
to bear up under the frowns of their haughty master.
But, alas ! even out of these, very few could I find but
what were obliged to account to their master for the
profits of the day, and would lie down at night without
finding their condition at all meliorated for their exer-
tions, and with every hope of rising in the world by their
own activity and diligence for ever shut from their view.

The fortification with which this city is surrounded
consists of five bastions regularly laid out, and furnished
with banquette, rampart, parapet, ditch, covered way, and
glacis ; the curtains are nothing more than a line of
stockades about four feet high, which are set at a small
distance from each other, which renders them penetra-
ble by musket-ball. This stockade is furnished with a
banquette within, and a trifling ditch and glacis without,
which extends round the whole of the city, bastions

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 303

and all. The side next the river is open, so that there
are only three sides fortified. In the middle of each
curtain there is a small redoubt or ravelin, furnished with
three, four, and five embrasures ; but none of them have
more than two pieces of cannon mounted, which are six
or eight pounders. The bastions, which might be ren-
dered very strong, have each sixteen embrasures ; that is,
four in each face, three in each flank, and two in the
gorge to face the city. However, they are very badly
mounted with cannon, and from what I could understand,
they could not remedy this matter, as there were no cannons
in the place but what were in the bastions. The western
bastion had but three or four pieces, the north-western
bastion the same quantity, the northern bastion had
about five or six, and the eastern bastion had its full
complement, besides the same number in the covered
way. What this can be for I cannot conceive, that they
should leave the other bastions almost defenceless, and
crowd the cannon into this quarter of the city. It could
not be that they apprehended an attack from below,
because the river is well defended farther below, and
no nation would ever think of attacking it against the
stream. On the contrary, they had reasons to apprehend
an attack from abo^'e, as appears from the proclamation
of the governor when I was there ; and the only work
which defended this opening was the southern bastion,
in conjunction with a little redoubt on the levee. This
bastion was furnished with about twelve pieces of cannon,
and was also furnished with a counterguard, and had
traverses in the covered way. The redoubt on the lev^e
had five pieces of cannon mounted ; but of all this force,
not above ten pieces could be brought to bear upon any

304 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

body of men descending the stream ; and if they effected
a landing on the open levee, the bastions would then be
of no service. There is another redoubt furnished with
four pieces of cannon on the levee, and facing the
magazine, which place I suppose it was meant to de-
fend. All the cannon in these last-mentioned places
are about twenty-four pounders. Upon the whole, I
think this a place which might easily be taken ; and to
put it in the most ready and expeditious mode of execu-
tion, I would recommend the landing of a body of men
under cover of the night on the open lev6e, or marching
them round to the back of the town, (which is quite
defenceless,) to carry the place by assault : either of
these methods would have the desired effect, and the
more readily if it were undertaken by the Americans or
British, as the inhabitants (who are mostly from these
two countries) are heartily tired of the Spanish yoke,
and would favour any attempt which could be made
effectually and perpetually to relieve them from it. These
observations on the fortifications of this place were made
at the extreme hazard of my person ; for, in ascertaining
the exact position and direction of their different parts,
(which I did by walking often round the bastions, and
taking their bearings with a compass,) I would be some-
times ordered away by the sentinel, and sharply repri-
manded for approaching so near the works : and had he
suspected my motive he would instantly have seized me ;
and the drawings I had made of the place would have
been sufficient to have convicted me, particularly in this
country, where villany and oppression take place of ho-
nour and justice. However, in spite of all their suspi-
cious vigilance, I found means to obtain a complete plan

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 305

of the place ; and I brought it away with me in the
crown of mj hat, as being the most likely place to escape
the search which is sometimes made on persons'"' depart-
ing from the city.

There are six gates to this city, the two most consider-
able of which are those on the lev^e; the next in point of
importance are two at the back of the city, one of which
leads to Lake Ponchartrain. These two are defended by
a small breastwork, which, by the bye, is a mere apology
for a defence. There are two other avenues leading out
of the city on the south-western side ; but as they are
very small, (having nothing but a plank across the ditch,)
I shall only mention them. These gates are formed of
wood, but are not solid ; i. e., they consist of a kind of
railing, so that these also are not proof against musketry.
They are shut every night at nine o'clock, after which
time they are not opened without diflSculty ; and at this
hour it is ordered that no one is to be seen about the
streets unless he has a licence from the governor : though,
except in the case of negroes and servants, the hour is
extended till eleven, and after this time all persons seen
about the streets are stopped by the guard and detained
till morning.

The houses are generally framed buildings, and are
raised about seven or eight feet from the ground, in order
to make room for the cellars, which are on a level with
the ground, as no buildings can be carried on below its

* My reasons foi* being so particular on the state of the fortifica-
tions was the idea of an immediate rupture between the Americans
and Spaniards, which was much expected at that time. And I
should have been happy to have served the former at the expense
of the latter.

306 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

surface on account of the height of the surrounding
water. The upper part is sometimes furnished with an
open gallery, which surrounds the whole building, though
in the streets this is often dispensed with. It affords
an agreeable retreat in the cool of the evening in this
warm climate, and is much more refreshing than within
doors. The house in which I boarded had one of these
galleries, which was shaded by some trees growing in
the garden, and under cover of these we used to take
our tea in the evening. Sometimes our party would be
enlivened by the addition of some musical instrument,
accompanied by a song from the daughter of our hostess,
who entertained us with some French and Spanish airs in
the highest perfection.

Having thus much treated on the external appearance
of this placCj let me now descend to the internal condition
of it, and endeavour to describe those different shades in
the state of society which serve to distinguish one set of
men from another, and enable us to pronounce a favour-
able or unfavourable opinion of their customs and man-
ners. In all societies where a number of men from dif-
ferent countries have met together, each will naturally
endeavour to persevere in that line of conduct, or in those
habits, to which he has been used in his own country ;
and though a promiscuous intercourse may induce each
to deviate a little from his accustomed habits, &c., yet
it will be a long while ere they form one perfect character
under which the whole community may be classed. The
inhabitants of this place are a mixture of English, Irish,
Scotch, American, French, and Spanish; and though the
four former may be ranked under one general head, and
form by far the greatest body of the people here, yet the

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 307

two latter will form a distinct character, of which the
Spanish are the least considerable. The characteristical
traits in each of these nations are nearly the same as
in the mother country, though somewhat altered by the
natural progress of assimilation, owing to such a promis-
cuous combination of dijBferent characters. The climate,
too, may have some influence upon the mind, and in-
duce it to comply with little deviations from accustomed
usage, for tlie sake of ease and comfort. Amongst the
most prominent traits I may reckon an unconquerable
disposition towards indolence and a love of ease, united
to its never-failing attendant, — slavery. It will be ob-
served, that this vice kept pace with our advancement
to the southward; and that in proportion as men are
exposed to the scorching rays of the enervating sun, they
have ever been induced to compel another part of the
human race to administer to their ease and indolence by
toil and labour; so that to these miserable creatures the
observation of Virgil may be applied, " Sic vos non vobis,"
and that in its fullest extent.

As to the state of society, and connexions which the
inhabitants form with each other, it must be observed
that all these new-settled places, and, in fact, almost all
colonies, are filled with adventurers, who leave their own
country for the sake of profit and advantage to them-
selves ; and who, most of them, look upon the spot where
they happen to reside as a mere place of passage, where
they hope to realize a fortune, which they intend to enjoy
in their native country. In such a state of society, then,
we are not to look for any improvement in the arts or
sciences, nor for any progress in refinement or the arts of
civilization. It will be sufficient if they preserve those

308 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

which they brought from their own country, and do not
degenerate instead of advancing. In none of these
places which I have been in have I found those settled
habits of society which are to be found in even every
village in my own country, where a long residence in a
place, and a descendance from a train of old-established
ancestors, induces man to go on in the old jog-trot way
of his forefathers. Here they are more of a speculative
and enterprising turn ; and what connexions are formed
amongst each other are generally those of interest or
immediate pleasure, and lose much of their relish for
want of that duration and stability which alone can give
a true zest to friendship, or, I think, to even common
acquaintance. To be sure, there is an advantage attend-
ing this to the traveller, and that is, that there is not that
difficulty of admittance into society in these places, which
there is in old-established countries. A person who does
not behave himself improperly, and has the slightest
knowledge of any individual in the place, will find an
easy admission into all companies. But, then, as ac-
quaintances are easily formed, they are as easily dissolved,
and that perhaps with as much sang fr old as they were
made. This must necessarily be the case when there is
such a promiscuous succession of strangers as there gene-
rally is in new countries. That there are some who call
themselves settled in this province, I will admit ; and as
these have families and connexions in the place, their
habits are consequently moulding down into a settled
form; but the great bulk of the inhabitants are of the
description I have been mentioning. Which of the two
states of society is the most acceptable to a resident,
I leave you to judge ; and in the meantime I shall draw

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 309

your attention to another object connected with the same
subject ; this is, their mode of living, as it respects clean-
liness, provisions, &c., &c.

With respect to the former, they are kept within pro-
per bounds by the nature of the climate : for, not only
are they obliged to be neat and clean in their apparel,
&c., but they are deprived also in their houses (by the
same kind agent) of many articles which, in a more
moderate climate, are a harbour, not only for dirt and
filth, but for vermin of every sort. Their houses are gen-
erally built of wood, and boarded very plain in the inside,
and made very open, that there may be a free circula-
tion of air; consequently they avoid all the inconve-
nience and expense of paper, carpets, fires, curtains, and
hangings of different kinds. The bedrooms are fitted
up in the same plain style, and are furnished with no-
thing but a liard-shiffed bed, raised very much in the
middle, and covered with a clean, white sheet ; and over
the whole there is a large gauze net (called a hear),
which is intended as a defence against the mosquitos,
and serves tolerably well to keep off those tormenting
creatures. On this sheet (spread upon the bed, and
under the net) you lie down without any other covering,
and (if it be summer-time) with the doors and windows
open, so intolerable is the heat of the climate. During
several days when I was here, the thermometer was at
1 1 7° in the shade.

The dress of the inhabitants is also correspondent to
the furniture of their houses : being clothed in the light-
est manner possible, and every one in the manner which
pleases him best, there is not (in these new countries)
that strange propensity to ridicule every one who devi-

310 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

ates from the forms which a more established society
may have prescribed to itself ; but every one, in this
respect, "doeth that which is right in his own eyes."
Some will wear the short linen jacket of the Americans ;
others, the long flowing gown, or the cloak of the Spaniards :
some, the open trousers and naked collar ; others, the more
modern dress of tight pantaloons and large cravats :
some, with the white or black chip hat ; others, with the
beaver and feathers, after the manner of the Spaniards :
and so in respect to all other minutiae* of dress.

As to articles of provision, their markets are excel-
lently supplied from the numerous plantations on the
banks of this noble river, and that at a moderate rate ;
though I am informed, that they are not under good
management. Articles of fruit, such as oranges, lemons,
melons, pananas, pine-apples, nuts, &c., &c., are in the
greatest profusion, and are vended about the streets by the
negroes.

The liquor which is chiefly drunk here is claret ; which
mixed with water is the common beverage. Spirits,
punch, and bottled porter are also much consumed.
Weak punch is a favourite liquor in all warm countries.

The trade of this place consists principally in the ex-
portation of deer and bear skins, beaver furs, cotton,
lumber, rice, and various other articles, which are pro-
duced on the plantations up the river. The skins they
get from the Indians, who bring them here to trade, and
in return receive guns, powder, blankets, &c. At the
time I was here cotton sold for fifteen dollars per cwt.,
which was a low price : in general it fetches from twenty
to twenty-five dollars. The articles of importation con-
* The same observations aj)ply to the ladies.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 311

sist chiefly of such goods of European manufactory as
are in most demand amongst the inhabitants, or intended
for trade amongst the Indians. This latter is a very
profitable employment. There was a gentleman of the
name* of Nolin, an Irishman by birth, who boarded in the
same house with us, who had followed it for some years :
he was at that time preparing for another expedition, and
intended in a short time to proceed up Red River, on his
way to Mexico. He told me it was a life of extreme
fatigue, and very difficult to be procured, as the Spanish
governors were very jealous whom they admitted to this
privilege ; and it would be impossible to carry it on
without their permission. His mode of carrying such
articles as he takes out is in little barrels, which are placed
upon pack-horses, three barrels upon a horse : and in
this manner he will travel for hundreds — I may say,
thousands — of miles through the woods of America, barter-
ing with the Indians as he goes along, and receiving in
return skins and furs, or wild horses. These horses (of
which there are plenty in the Apalousa country, and in the
province of Mexico) are caught in a most curious manner,
and which can only be effected with success by those who
have been used to the practice. A person is mounted on
a fleet horse, round the neck of which a rope is tied ; and
the other end of the rope is formed into a noose, and this he
holds in his hand ; he then rides into the woods where a
number of these wild horses are assembled together, and

* It is right to inform the reader, that alterations of common
Irish names, as Daily for Daly, Nolin for Nolan, arise neither from
editorial negligence, nor from want of clearness in the manuscript,
Mr. Baily distinctly wrote them so, and probably saw tlicm so
written. — Ed.

312 JOURNA.L OF A TOUR.

singling out one of them, rides at full speed after him,
and when he has come within the required distance, throws
the noose over his head ; immediately the horse which he
is riding stops, and the other horse, when he has attained
the full length of the rope, is thrown on his back by the
violence of the jerk. The rider then gets off his horse
and immediately mounts the other animal, and continues
to ride him at full speed till he is fairly overcome, and pro-
perly broken in : he is then delivered to the trader, who
drives him quietly before him along with the herd he has
collected to whatever place he pleases.

But to return to the subject of my letter. The article
of lumber which I have mentioned as one of their exports,
is procured in the following manner : — The owners of
the saw-mills in this neighbourhood send a number of
men up the Mississippi at the proper season, to cut down
timber on its banks. This timber, which is very fine and
in very great abundance, and which is had for the mere
trouble of fetching it, is cut down before the floods
descend , after which time, and when the banks are over-
flowed, they go up and without any difiiculty bring all
their logs (which are now floating) to the river, where they
form a raft of them, and let them drift down the stream
to the saw-mill. At that place a number of men stand
ready with ropes and hawsers to tow the raft to the
shore, where it is cut up into planks, scantlings, &c.
However, great care is necessary in conducting it down
the river, as it is totally unmanageable when it gets
into a strong current : and if suffered to come near the
shore, the raft would inevitably be broken to pieces ; or
if it got within the suck of the Chefalaya, it would un-
doubtedly be lost for ever. The saw-mills are built on

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 313

the banks of the Mississippi, and are turned bj the stream
flowing over its banks: so that they never work but at
time of high floods, at which period they continue going
day and night till the waters fall again.

There is but one printing-press in this place, and that
is made use of by the government only. The Spanish
government is too jealous to sufier the inhabitants to
have the free exercise of it ; for, hoAvever strange it may
appear, yet it is absolutely true that you cannot even
stick a paper against the wall (either to recover anything
lost, or to advertise anything for sale) without its first
having the signature of the governor or his secretary at-
tached to it : and on all those little bills which are stuck
up at the corners of the streets you see the word " Per-
mitted" written by the governor or his agent.

As to the diversions of the place, they consist principally
in billiards, of which there are several tables in the
town. This practice I presume they have adopted from
the Americans, who (in the southern part of that conti-
nent) follow this amusement very much. They have a
playhouse, which is rather small. It consists of one
row of boxes only, with an amphitheatre in the middle,
which is raised above the pit, and over the whole there is
a gallery. The plays are performed in French, and they
have a tolerable set of actors. The inhabitants are also
musical, but this lies chiefly among the French. The
gentlemen of the place often perform in the orchestra at
the theatre : in fact, there is no other music there but
such as they obtain in this voluntary way.

Here 1 had an opportunity of noticing the observance
of the Sabbath as it is kept in a Roman Catholic country.
The fore part of the day was kept in a religious perform-

314 JOURNAL OF A TOUR,

ance of a few forms and ceremonies, which were carried on
under the roof of . the church. That being ended, and
with it the duty of the day, you everywhere observed
the marks of hilarity and cheerfulness. Scarcely had the
priest pronounced his benediction, ere the violin or the fife
struck up at the door, and the lower classes of the people
indulged themselves in all the gaiety and mirth of juve-
nile diversions. Singing, dancing, and all kinds of sports
were seen in every street ; and in the evening the play-
house and assembly-room were thrown open, to crown this
scene of dissipation. I observed that this unbending of the
mind from all worldly cares, and suffering the gay disposi-
tions of the heart to supersede those of a more reflecting
nature, took very much with the lower sort of people, and
induced them to look forward with the highest pleasure
for Sunday — particularly amongst the negroes, who in
this country are suffered to refrain from work on that day.
Here, arrayed in their best apparel, forgetful of the toils
they had endured the preceding part of the week, and let
loose from the hand of their master, they would meet
together on the green, and spend the day in mirth and
festivity. Here they would appear with countenances
illuminated and beaming with happiness, as if they were
enjoying themselves in the midst of their friends and
relatives, and had never been snatched from their own
country by the cruel hand of the Christian.

Now I am upon this subject, I must not forget to men-
tion the procession of the host, which I had an oppor-
tunity of seeing conducted in this place. It was on
the 15th June, which is kept in Roman Catholic coun-
tries as the Corpus Christi day. The morning was
ushered in by a general bustle through the streets, which

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 315

indicated that there was something remarkable going
forward in the city. On ray approach to the church I
found all the associations in the place under arms, and
ready to attend the procession. The streets through
which they were to move were purposely planted with
green boughs and bushes on both sides, and strewed with
a kind of gravel. A mixed multitude of men, women, and
children surrounded the church, waiting the coming out
of the sacred treasure. Not wishing to be involved in
the rabble, I took my station at some little distance, and
in a short time I had the satisfaction of seeing the gen-
tlemen make their appearance. A few soldiers went first
to clear the way ; next to these followed the ecclesiastical
multitude, consisting of priests of different kinds and in
different habits, carrying tapers, crosses, and all the in-
struments of idolatrous superstition, and conveying the
host, which was carried on a kind of bier dressed round
with flowers and trinkets, not unlike our May-day gar-
lands. After this came the bishop, walking in solemn
state under a canopy supported by half a dozen priests,
and scattering his fruitless blessings around on a gaping
multitude. Close to the bishop followed the Baron de
Carondelet, the governor of the province, together with
his suite ; and at the close of these a party of horse and
foot to preserve order, and to keep off the rabble which
followed behind. Several gentlemen of the place who
wished to attend the procession had procured tapers, and
in this manner formed part of the retinue — lighting the
bishop in mid-day as he went along. By this means
they observed the whole of the manoeuvres, and were
preserved from mixing with the multitude. I had one
offered me ; but as I understood that I could not leave my

316 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

office when I pleased, but must continue to the end of the
procession, I rather chose to take my chance of the day.
Besides, as I did not feel a disposition to show any out-
ward mark of respect to their superstition, I was wil-
ling to leave myself at liberty to depart whenever I
found myself insulted by the mob for my non-com-
pliance with their expectations ; for it is the moh alone
which enforces that outward respect which is shown by
every person as the host passes along : nothing being to
be apprehended from those under the government. Ac-
cordingly, when the host was fairly out of the church,
and all down upon their knees in the streets, with
their hats off, and gazing with a stupid kind of astonish-
ment on the holy wafers, I silently stole up by the side
of the governor, and walked round with him all the
way, putting myself in a manner under his protection ;
however, no kind of insult was offered to me for my
keeping on my hat when they were all kneeling at the ap-
pointed places. Now, such is the perverseness of human
nature, that when I found this was the case, I was induced
to do that through compliment, which nothing could have
induced me to do hij force. The procession continued to
move very slowly to the sound of musical instruments
through several of the streets ; at the corner of every one
of which the host was set down, and some few ecclesiastical
tricks being performed by the bishop (the people all
kneeling), he scattered his blessings round upon the multi-
tude, and then proceeded on to the next corner, where the
same ceremony was repeated. At the same time the
houses on each side were lined with visitors, who strewed
flowers upon the head of the venerable bishop as he went
by, and kneeled to the host as it passed along. At length

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 317

tlie procession having made a circle through the streets
round the church, arrived at the same point again ; which
having entered, some little ceremony was performed, and
the day was left to be spent in mirth and merriment.

]^ew Orleans* may contain about a thousand houses.
It is one hundred miles from the sea down the Missis-
sippi ; but across the country by land it is not more than
seven leagues. Owing to the rapidity of the current,
vessels are a long while in coming up here. There is a
fort, called Balize, at the mouth of the river ; but I am
informed that it furnishes no defence to it. The tide
ascends but very little way up the channel of the Missis-
sippi, owing to the rapidity of its current. The banks
of this river are well settled for a few miles below the
city; but after that there are no plantations of any
consequence.

When I first arrived here, it was my intention to have
proceeded to New York by sea, and I expected to have
found some vessel here bound to that place ; but when I
arrived, there was not a single vessel in the harbour,
neither was there any expected immediately. This must
give you but a poor idea of the commerce of this place;
however, you must observe that it was only a temporary
stagnation, and arose from the peculiar situation in which
the Americans found themselves with respect to Spain?
on her refusing to give up the forts, and also from other

* Hutchins says that it was regularly laid out by the French in
the year 1720, and that its latitude is 30° 2' north.

It is a very unhealthy place, owing probably to its low situation,
and to its frequent communications and intimate connexion with
the West India Islands, through which means it is often troubled
with epidemic fevers.

318 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

circumstances at the time, which served to prevent ships
from entering this port, among which I may mention the
presence of an English frigate at the mouth of the river,
which gave a pretty good look-out after vessels making
an enemy's harbour. However, a schooner arrived here
in a few days, which intended to proceed to the Havan-
nah, and from thence probably to New York ; but as
this was not determined upon, I could not embrace the
opportunity ; otherwise I should have very much liked to
have seen this famous place, which was so gallantly de-
fended, and as gallantly reduced, in the year 1762, under
Admiral Pocock, and which was very impoliticly given up
again at the peace of 1763.

Finding, then, that there was no prospect of getting to
New York by sea, unless I waited a considerable time at
this place, I resolved upon returning thither by land ;
and, as there was a party soon to set off through the
wilderness,* I determined to embrace the opportunity of
going with them. The distance across the country was
near two thousand miles, the greatest part of which was
uninhabited, being mostly among the Indian nations,
some of whom were continually committing acts of hos-
tility against the Americans. In our progress through
this desetij- country, we were to be cut off entirely from
society, save the few scattered Indians we might meet
with by the way, without a path to direct us in our
course, and obliged to take the provisions with us which
we might be likely to want in this long and troublesome

* Returning through the wilderness, is going through that un-
cultivated tract of land lying between the United States and the
Spanish settlements, and which is inhabited solely by the Indians.

f Deserted by inan only.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 319

journey. However, as I had had some little specimen of
rough living, I did not look forward with so much dread
of the difficulties and dangers of this mode of travelling
as my companions, some of whom had never experienced
it before, and I the rather embraced this opportunity
now, as the season was advancing when this place began
to be very unhealthy. Accordingly I purchased a couple
of horses ; (one to carry myself, and the other my provi-
sions, &c. ;) and having laid in a store of biscuit and
beef sufficient to last me till we got to the Natchez, through
which place we were to pass, and having furnished myself
with a huntsman's^ dress, proper for travelling through
the woods, I held myself in readiness for my companions.
But before I take leave of this place, I promised to give
you some general observations on the noble and majestic
river which I have just descended.

The Mississippi rises nearly in the centre of Worth Ame-
rica, in about the 50th degree of north latitude; though its
exact course has never yet been ascertained, it is the most
westerly boundary of the United States, and divides that
country from the provinces of Spain which lie on the
western side of this river. By the late treaty between
Great Britain and America, commissioners have been ap-
pointed to ascertain the head of the river St. Lawrence,
and to draw a line from thence, due west, till it strikes
the Mississippi. As the commissioners have set out on
their expedition we may soon expect to hear some accu-
rate account from this unexplored part of the world. It
is said to flow three thousand miles before it discharges

* A huntsman is a white man, -who follows neai-ly the same
mode of life as the Indians, and lives by hunting the deei*, bear,
&c., &c.

320 JOURNAL OP A TOUR.

itself* into the ocean. Verj little of its course is known
above the falls f of St. Anthony, which lie in latitude 45° ;
but from the information of travellers, it flows, after it
has precipitated itself over that rock, with a clear, gentle
current, receiving many tributary streams in its course,
the most considerable of which is the Missouri. Here
it assumes a very different appearance, and would scarcely

* Its general direction is from nortli to south, and moves in a
continued serpentine course throughout.

t They received their name from Father Lewis Hennipin, a
French missionary, who travelled into these parts about the year
1680, and was the first European ever seen by the natives. The
whole river, which is more than 250 yards wide, falls per-
pendicularly about thirty feet, and forms a most pleasing catar-
act. The rapids below, in the space of 300 yards render the
descent considerably greater; so that, when viewed at a distance,
they appear to be much higher than they really are. In the mid-
dle of the falls is a small island, about forty feet broad, and some-
what longer, on which grow a few craggy hemlock and spruce-
trees; and about half-way between this island and the eastern
shore, is a rock lying at the very edge of the falls in an oblique
position, five or six feet broad, and thirty or forty long. These
falls are peculiarly situated, as they are approachable without the
least obstruction from any intervening hills or precipice, which
cannot be said of any other considerable falls perhaps in the world.
The country around is exceedingly beautiful. It is not an unin-
terrupted plain, where the eye finds no relief, but composed of
many gentle ascents, which, in the spring and summer, are covered
with verdure, and interspersed with little groves, that give a pleas-
ing variety to the prospect. A little distance below the falls, is a
small island, of about 1^^ acre, on which grow a great number of
oak-trees, almost all the branches of which (able to bear the weight)
are, in the proper season of the year, loaded with eagles' nests.
Their instinctive wisdom has taught them to choose this place, as
it ia secure, on account of the rapids above, from the attacks
either of man or beast.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 321

be taken for the same river; in fact, it ought, in point of
propriety, to lose its name here, for the Missouri is bj far
the most coiisideraUe stream of the two, being navigable
upwards of two thousand miles from its mouth, and how
far above that its source may be, has never yet been
ascertained. Certain it is, that even at that distance, it
is a considerable body of water, very muddy in its quality,
and rapid in its course, descending like a torrent through
a vast uninhabited and desert country; and when it
arrives at the Mississippi (which it enters at nearly right
angles), it shoots like a rapid across the stream, rendering
turbid its limpid waters, and scarcely deigning to mix
with so opposite a companion. Here they are borne
down together through one of the richest and most beau-
tiful countries the sun ever shone upon, equalling the
famous plains of Egypt in fertility, and the climate of
Italy for mildness and temperature. On the point of
land where the Missouri enters, the Spaniards have lately
formed a settlement, called St. Louis, and have taken a
great deal of pains to encourage the Americans to settle
there ; induced by the temptations they held out, a great
many emigrated thither, and still continue to do so, to
the great retardation of the settlements in the western
parts of the United States, However, there is one thing
which is likely to make amends for this temporary evil,
and that is, that such Americans as do emigrate thither
will take with them all their local habits and disposi-
tions, and that unconquerable spirit of independence
which characterises them. By this mean they will be
sowing the seeds of revolt which must sooner or later
break out in these provinces, when the Spanish govern-
ment begins to exercise that despotic tyranny over them

Y

322 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

which forms the basis of her support, and the seed of her
ruin ; and if thej shake off the joke of this political
monster, it is evident the inhabitants will put themselves
either under the protection of the Americans or English,
either of whom would be able to drive out these proud
rulers, and thereby enlarge the reign of liberty and
justice. The town stands on an eminence, and is about
160 miles above the Ohio ; there is another town, called
St. Genevieve, about sixty or seventy miles below, which
is not quite so large as St. Louis. There are a few strag-
gling plantations also at other places on both sides of the
river, and Mr. Hutchins makes the number of fencible
men in the several villages on and near the Mississippi,
in the year 1771, as follows: —

At St. Louis French 415

„ Negroes 40

At St. Genevieve .... French 208

„ Negroes 80

At other places French 300

„ ' Negroes 230

Total... 1273

Since that time, however, the number must have been
considerahli/ increased; for the Americans have taken a
great deal of pains to settle the Illinois country, (or that
tract of land through which the Illinois river runs,) and
the Spaniards to do the same on the western banks of the
Mississippi ; so that the tract of land lying on the Mis-
sissippi, between the Ohio and Missouri, may be looked
upon as in a fair prospect of being soon inhabited. But
after the junction of that river, (the Ohio,) how different

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 323

the appearance! not a single settlement (save the few I
have noticed) till jou arrive at the Natchez, a distance of
a thousand miles I Some remark on this part of its course
is what I am now going to offer; and in doing this I
shall confine myself to such things as fell under my own
observation, and relate them as I first noticed them.

The first thing which attracts the attention of a tra-
veller on entering the Mississippi, is the extreme turbid-
ness of its waters. This I had been led to expect, and
its appearance answered my expectations ; but when I
came to try the experiment which has been hackneyed
about in all the descriptions of this country, I must
confess I was disappointed ; viz., " That in a half-pint
tumbler of this water there has been found a sediment
of one inch."' I tried it several times, and scarcely ever
found it more than one-eighth of an inch, if so much.

The next objects worthy of attention are the enormous
poplar- trees which line the banks of this river. It is
called the cotton-tree by the natives, from the quantity
of downy substance (like cotton) which is scattered from
its fruit-stalks at the time of a high wind. It is the
populus halsamifera of Linnaeus. They are of an amaz-
ing height, and of great thickness at the bottom, and
cover the banks of this river, particularly at the lower
parts of it, for a considerable distance. We have often-
times made fast to their trunks when we have put to at
night, and have endeavoured to touch the bottom with
the longest setting poles we had, but without effect, and
yet their height did not appear at all diminished ; on
the contrary, they appeared (even in that unfavourable
situation) as remarkably tall trees.

But what gives the greatest pleasure and delight to a

Y 2

324 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

mind fond of such scenes, is the labyrinth of islands
amongst which you are incessantly floating, and that
with such rapidity, that you are hurried from one to the
other without scarcely having time to observe the beau-
ties of either. Sometimes the course of the river will ap-
pear to be stopped by their intersection with each other;
but no sooner are you arrived at the apparent point of
obstruction, than the river makes a short turn, and whirls
you round into a view of quite different scenes and pros-
pects. The perpetual verdure which reigns in this cli-
mate, and the different tints which the setting sun reflects
from these scattered islands, make many of these wild
and majestic scenes bear the appearance of enchantment.
There is one spot a little below the mouth of the Ohio,
which, on account of the quantity of islands which are
interspersed in it, is emphatically styled, " Hundred
Islands;" for it is said that from one point of view you
may behold that number.

This river appears of different widths in different
places : in some parts I have observed it upwards of five
miles wide, and in others (particularly at Grand Gulf,
and where the other bluffs appear) it may not be more
than a quarter of a mile wide. This inequality depends
(as I conceive) upon the nature of the soil through which
the river runs; for though in general it is a light, loose
mould, yet even this may differ in degrees of tenacity, and
in its capability of being undermined. I have already
remarked to you, that the banks in many places have
been observed to fall in, and the river to make encroach-
ments on the land; and I also remarked to you the cause
of this appearance. If this were suffered to continue
long without any counterbalance, the whole country would

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 325

soon be an immense lake ; but it is widely ordered that
what is gained so suddenly in one place is made up by
the steady hand of time in the encroachments which the
land makes upon the river in another place. The en-
croachments which are made upon the land, are always
made in the concave part of the course of the river, where
the stream flows with violence against the side, and pre-
cipitates whole acres to one sudden ruin. The slow ad-
vances of the land in return are made on the opposite,
or convex, shore ; and this part is always observed to be
overgrown with low willow-trees, which are favourable to
the growth (if I may so term it) of new ground, and the
retention of mud and other substances which are con-
tinually floating down the stream. In process of time
this projection becomes of a considerable length, and in
a course of ages, by the action of the stream against its
sides, may be cut entirely through, and either form an
island, or leave the other channel perfectly dry. That
many such changes as these have been observed, (even
during a person's lifetime,) I have the testimony of
several witnesses who can well remember the course
of the river, very difi"erent from what it is now, and one
of whom pointed out to me several places which he re-
membered very difi"erent from what he had observed them
some years ago ; and the appearance of the country justified
his observations. So that it would appear as though the
bed of the river were continually varying ; in fact, I would
hazard a bolder conjecture, and suppose that in the course
of some centuries it may have altered its course so efi"ec-
tually, as to run in no one part over the same tract of
Country that it did formerly. As to what Charlevoix
says of some Canadians cutting through a neck of land at

326 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

Point Couple, I think that, before a belief can be founded
on an assertion of that sort, it ought to be attended with
some sort of evidence. To be sure, I saw what they called
the old bed of the river, which is no otherwise to be dis-
tinguished from the surrounding land but by a little ex-
cavation of the ground, and the lowness of the trees;
but then it is no more than what I have remarked in
other places where the river has evidently deviated from
its course. For, setting aside the labour of the under-
taking, (which, I am very sure, people in this country
would not unnecessarily throw away,) the thing could
not be attended with any material advantage; for the
current is so swift, that I am certain a boat could get
round to the opposite point before a man could put a
spade in the ground, or even push his boat to the shore.
I lay stress likewise upon the incredulity of the na-
tives, who know too well the folly of such an useless
enterprise to give credit * to the report.

There is another thing in which I would endeavour to
set you right, at least if you have formed the same idea
which I had previously entertained ; and that is respect-
ing the eddies or counter-currents of this river. I had
always conceived them to flow with a motion against the
regular course of the stream, nearly as strong as the
stream itself. These are the words of Winterbotham : —

* Winterbotham, with the most barefaced assurance, after relat-
ing the account given bj Charlevoix, adds, — " Several other points
of great extent have, in like manner, been since cut off, and the
river diverted into new channels." This, perhaps, in course of
time, may be called good evidence of the fact, and will descend
to posterity hand in hand with Charlevoix's idle tale. Tha
truth is, that these deviations are the work of nature, and not
of art.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 327

" The current of the Mississippi is so strong, that it is
with difficulty it can be ascended ; but this advantage
is in part compensated by eddies or counter-currents,
which are found in the bends close to the banks of the
river, which run with nearly equal velocity against the
stream, and assist the ascending boats." Now the fact is
far otherwise ; for instead of these eddies having a current,
they are seldom more than stagnant water ; or if they
have a motion, it is almost imperceptible. If a boat gets
into one of these eddies, she will appear (to a boat going
down the stream) to ascend with a great degree of velo-
city, and for the same reason that the trees on the bank
appear to move ; but this is easily accounted for, and is
nothing more than a deception of sight. Therefore it is
a mere negative advantage that these places present, as
they only assist the ascending boat so far as to prevent
the general current from driving the boat downwards.

A great deal has been said upon the practicability of
obtaining boats which might be brought to work against
the stream, by means of some mechanical force, which
would save the expense of manual labour ; but, however
far such a scheme might be able to be carried into execu-
tion, it is certain that the present trade down the Missis-
sippi does not hold out encouragement enough to any
to induce them to follow the scheme with success ; for
(about the latter end of last year) some Dutchmen under-
took to build a boat upon this construction — the propel-
ling force consisted of two large wheels on each side, which
were partly immersed in the water, and formed some-
what like the waterwheel of a mill, and were turned
round by eight horses. He first of all had four horses ;
but finding large animals inconvenient, (as they moved

328 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

under deck,) he changed them for four pair of small ones.
This boat passed us when we were wrecked on the banks
of the Ohio ; and appeared to go with prodigious swiftness
with the stream. They were going down with her to
New Orleans, expecting to have a good freight in coming
up with her again. When we were at Natchez, she had
just arrived from that city, having performed the journey
(300 miles) in about six days, the rate at which thirty
or forty men would have impelled the same vessel. But
then it must be observed that she was emjptyi for so
little occasion was there for a vessel of this kind, that
she had not a single thing on board, which so discom-
forted the poor old Dutchman, that he sold the boat and
horses at a very great loss, and proceeded homewards in
disgust tlirough the wilderness. Thus did this fruitless
speculation terminate in his ruin. It will be seen after-
wards, that these people joined our party through the
woods.

There is one thing which I must not overlook in my
description of this river, and that is, the astonishing hur-
ricanes to which you are exposed in descending it. These
I have already given you some hint of; but to present
an accurate picture of them, is far beyond the powers of
description. I could not ascertain whether they always
presented such awful appearances ; but certain it is, that
almost every night, about twelve o'clock, we were awakened
by the report of the most tremendous thunder echoing
from the surrounding woods^ accompanied with the most
vivid, dense flashes of lightning the imagination can
conceive ; at the same time the wind would blow with
incredible fury, like a tornado ; and all combined seemed
to threaten our little bark with instant destruction. So

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 329

prodigious were its effects, that though we were sheltered
bj the trees and made fast to their trunks by two large
ropes, jet were we obliged to hold on by the branches to
prevent the wind from forcing us away from our mooring.
At other times so great a swell would be raised in the
river, that it would toss about our little boat like a ship
in a gale of wind, overturn everything that was in it,
and actually induce a sickness, such as is caused by the
motion of the sea; and at the same time, by the violence
of the waves, and the weakness of her frame, she would
soon have been filled with water, had we not applied our-
selves with all possible exertion, with buckets^ cups, hats,
and everything else we could find, to keep her free as
fast as it came in. To give you some idea of the prodi-
gious violence of the wind, I shall only inform you that
the flexible branches of the willow vrere broken off in
many places as easily as if they had been formed of the
most brittle substance ; at the same time that the tall
pines and sturdy oaks fell a victim to its desolating fury.
This scene we were witness to for several nights running,
and nearly about the same time of night. The prodigi-
ously loud reports of the thunder,, and the dense streams
of lightning, rendered it awfully grand. I wished several
times to ascertain the course of these storms, or rather
hurricanes ; but we were always so much engaged in an
attention to our own safety, that I could not spare time
for the subject. They generally lasted about half an
hour or three quarters of an hour ; and then all would be
calm again, and we would retire to rest once more.

Now I am on this subject, I must not forget to confirm
the assertion which is made concerning the direction of
the winds on this river and on the Ohio : they in general

330 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

set up the stream, and very much assist the ascending
boats, who take advantage of this circumstance, by fixing
sails ; but these sails must be lofty, otherwise they will
not feel the influence of the winds, owing to the surround-
ing trees on the shore.

It has been asserted by some that there is reason to
suppose there exists in the upper country of the Missouri
a volcano, from the pumice-stones which have been found
floating on the Mississippi. I looked very narrowly after
this article, but was never lucky enough to meet with
any of it, though some men in the boat informed me that
it had been seen ; but they did not speak from their own
knowledge of the subject.

There are no good fish in this river. What there are,
are chiefly of the coarser kind, among which may be
reckoned the catfish, which has sometimes been caught
weighing a hundredweight ; its head is formed just like
a cat's, whence its name.

Before I leave the subject of the Mississippi, which I
have now brought to a close, I must not forget to mention,
that Dr. Waters, who resides at JN'ew Madrid, some few
years since built a schooner at the head of the Ohio, and
actually navigated it down that river and the Mississippi^
and sent it round by sea to Philadelphia, where it is now
employed in the commerce of the United States. This
shows the practicability of building vessels on this river,"""
where everything fit for such a work is in so great abun-
dance. If we may be allowed to anticipate a century
or two, we may fancy we see a fleet of merchantmen
doubling the Cape at the mouth of the Ohio, and bringing
up that delightful river (where nothing is now heard but

* I find that this has been repeatedly done since my return.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 331

the croaking of bull frogs, and tbe howling of wolves and
wild beasts) the produce of every climate under the sun.

Having now detailed to you the particulars most worthy
of notice connected with this river, I must recal your
attention to the regular course of my travels ; but pre-
vious to this, perhaps it may be necessary to observe that
I was on the immediate point of leaving New Orleans,
in order to proceed to the United States by land.

I had not ceased to weary Mr. Clarke every day, by
requesting to know what decision the governor had come
to with respect to the papers I had sent in to him.
He day after day put me off with some evasive answer ;
and from all the information I could get respecting the
improbability of obtaining redress, I determined not to
tarry any longer here in the needless prosecution of a
vexatious suit. Accordingly, our party being all assembled
and ready, we agreed to take the early morning for our
departure ; and on

Wednesday, June 21st, — we started. Our course lay

across the Lake Ponchartrain, which is about six miles

from the city. There is a little creek runs up from the

lake to within a couple of miles of the city, and where the

boats which navigate this lake harbour. To this place,

then, we had to proceed, in order to get aboard the little

boat which was to transport us and our horses across the

lake. We had all appointed to meet at the gate of the

city which leads to this place. I had waited upon the

governor the preceding evening for my passport, which he

gave me ; it was couched in the following words : —

" Neuva Orleans, 12 th de Juino, de 1797.
" Doy permiso a Francisco Bealy para que pase a Natchez por los
lagos sin embarazo.

" El Bakon de Carondelet."

332 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

By the time appointed we were all ready. We had
each of us furnished himself with a proper dress for
travelling the wilderness : it consisted of a pair of coarse
brown overhauls, and a shirt of the same materials. This
was all we had, excepting a pair of shoes, and all that we
required in this hot climate. It felt very rough to me at
first; but as 2, finer dress would have been of no essential
service, I was obliged to submit to necessity. We had
each a pair of pistols, which we carried in holsters before
us, and our horses behind carried our provision and
clothes. Thus accoutred we formed a long cavalcade
out of the city. The inhabitants who had been used to
these expeditions scarcely noticed us, though we ourselves
fancied that we should cut a curious figure in our pro-
cession. The sentinel having opened the gates to us, we
made the best of our way to the creek, where the boat was
waiting for us. The getting of our horses aboard (which
at all times is a troublesome job) took us up some time,
and it was near ten o'clock before we were all embarked.
We hurried off as soon as we could, because we wanted to
land on the other side of the lake before dark. We were
obliged to row down the creek, which was very narrow ; and
in our passage we met with nothing very remarkable save
the multitude of alligators, with which this place swarms.
The country through which this creek runs appeared to
be one continued swamp, and covered with flags and
bulrushes, the haunt of serpents and alligators. Some
bf the latter we came upon so suddenly (whilst they were
basking in the sun, half immersed in water) as to be able
to strike them with the oars ; on feeling which, they
would flounce into the water, and spatter us with the
spray.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 333

The entrance of this creek from the lake is defended
bj a fort which appears very badly constructed, and
mounted with five or six pieces of cannon : round about
the fort there are a few plantations. Here we had to
show our passports, and here it is that persons leaving the
province are generally searched. However, luckily for me,
that office was not performed upon us ; for having sent a
person ashore with all our passports, we had the pleasure
of seeing him soon return with permission to depart. It
happened that fortune was not quite so kind to us in
other respects ; for the wind, which on our first setting
out was favourable, began now to blow from the opposite
quarter, and detained us at the mouth of the creek, and
immediately under the walls of the fort, till near three
o'clock, when it once more shifted, and flattered us with
the prospect of soon terminating our voyage. About that
time, then, we started, and were soon hurried out to the
middle of the lake, which is thirty miles wide. Here the
wind began to lull again, and our little bark scarcely
seemed to move. We were now out of sigbt of land, and
nothing was to be seen around but a smooth expanse of
clear water, reflecting from its curling surface the warm
rays of an almost perpendicular sun. Oppressed with
the heat, we retired to the cabin, (for there was one part of
the boat covered in,) and there slept out the weary hours,
which now appeared prolonged by the unpropitious gale.
We resumed our station upon deck again about the set-
ting sun, and at this time we had the prospect of dis-
tant land before us. Our place of destination was about
three miles up the Chafunky, a small river on the opposite
shore, where we were to land and pursue our journey
through the woods. A breeze springing up about the

334 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

same time, we flattered ourselves that we should arrive
within the mouth of the river before dark, when we
might pursue our course up the stream in safety : whereas,
if night overtook us before we made the river, we should
be obliged to lay out at anchor till morning in the open
lake, as the shore is a dangerous place to approach in the
dark, the bank being so very soft and muddy, that if a
boat were to stick fast therein she would not be able to
force herself off again.

We were too confident in our expectations, for night
began to throw her sable mantle over the hemisphere ere
we could discover the least signs of the river ; and having
approached within a proper distance of the shore, the
pilot thought proper to drop his anchor, and leave us here
to the mercy of the winds and waves. We then opened
our wallets, and sitting round in a circle on the deck, we
made a hasty repast, and then retired to rest. Our beds
consisted of nothing more than a blanket spread upon the
bare boards ; and, reclining on these in the open air,
under the influence of a mild and clear atmosphere, we
soon found ourselves locked in the silken bands of sleep,
— lost to the world and all its care, and unconscious
whether our pillow were formed of down, or framed by
the pure hand of nature.

The wind, which when we retired to rest seemed
somewhat appeased, now began to increase, and about
the middle of the night raged with great violence, so that
our little bark was greatly agitated, and by the confusion
raging amongst the horses, was rendered very unsafe. It
continued in this manner till morning, when daylight
happily turned our enemy into a blessing, and the very
object we had just deprecated wafted us to our destined

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 335

port in safety. Having arrived within the mouth of the
river, we sent our boat ashore to collect some cane-stalks,
and to cut some grass for our horses, who had refused to
eat their corn, and had consequently gone without pro-
vender the whole voyage. You may possibly be surprised
to hear of our sending ashore to cut grass ; but you must
understand that in this fertile country, the whole earth
teems with this article, which grows to an astonishing
height, so that a man may in a short time cut enough for
his horses. About eight o'clock, —

Thursday, June '2>2nd, — we arrived at a small settle-
ment on the banks of the river, and about three miles up
it. Here we got our horses landed, and having refreshed
ourselves with breakfast, (which was agreeably enriched
with the addition of some milk we got at the plan-
tation,) we proceeded on our journey through the woods.
Whilst we were packing our horses, one of those be-
longing to Mr. Nolin broke away, and made his escape
into the woods. Luckily, he had another with him which
had been trained up to the practice of catching wild
horses (mentioned to you in a former letter) . This horse
he immediately mounted, and having provided himself
with a rope, he sallied after him, and in a few minutes
came up with him, and throwing the noose round his
neck, confirmed us in the account we had often heard of
this method of catching these wild animals. This done,
he soon joined us, and we pursued our journey together.
We were seven in company. Our course through the
woods lay about north-by- west. For the former part of
this day we had a pretty good open path, and passed
two or three plantations ; but during the remainder of
our journey we were not so fortunate, for the path now

336 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

began to fork into a number of different directions, and
these again into a number of others, which would be
crossed and recrossed by several more, so that it was all
chance whether we pursued the right one or not. Our
only guide was the direction it appeared to take : but in
this we would often be deceived, owing to its irregular
turnings and windings. These paths are made by the
Indians when they go out to hunt, as they generally
pursue one course till they get a little distance from their
encampment, when they strike out diversely into the
woods, so that it is not uncommon to find these paths
have no determinative end, but are lost, in a manner, by
the minuteness of their ramifications. Some of them,
however, have a more determinate appearance, and are
great leading paths from one village to another, or from
one great path to another ; so that it will appear, that
though these paths may be of service to the traveller, as
affording him a beaten track when they fall in with the
direction he is pursuing, yet they by no means point out
to him the course he ought to take.

Our usual mode of travelling was to wake by daylight,
so that we might be enabled to fetch our horses up and
pack them, and get ready for starting by the time the
sun had appeared above the horizon. Our horses would
seldom or never stray from our place of encampment, but
keep in a herd with each other ; and, if one of them
were found straggling at any great distance from the rest,
we could easily track him and fetch him back : however,
we always took the precaution of putting hobbles on their
feet. These hobbles are nothing more than leathern
thongs, or iron chains, by which their forefeet were
fastened together, and were a good preventative against

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 337

their straying, and if formed of iron, against the Indians
stealing them. As to their food, they lived altogether
upon the grass which they found in the woods, and
which grows in great abundance ; and we generally
encamped upon a spot of ground where it abounded
most, if water were to be found there. Our horses
were chiefly those which had been caught wild in the
woods ; and so attached were they to this kind of food,
that they preferred it, and thrived upon it much better
than on corn. We used to continue on our route till
about eleven o'clock, when we would choose a spot where
there was water, (which in this warm climate we found
rather scarce,) and there, unpacking our beasts and
kindling a fire, we used to refresh ourselves and our
horses for about three hours. Our horses we would
leave to graze about the woods, whilst we ourselves (after
finishing our meal) would recline under the shade of
some trees, and there pass the hottest part of the day,
free from the burning rage of the sun. But as soon as
he began to lower his course in the heavens we would
resume our way, and continue on our route till sunset,
when we would make a second meal and then retire* to
rest.

* As I had experienced a specimen of this mode of living in my
expedition on the banks of the Miami, it did not appear so hard or
unpleasant to me as it might otherwise have done. The mode of
conducting our little society was also much the same. We took it
by turns to kindle the fire, and supply it with fuel ; and to fetch
the water from the neighboui'ing stream. And as we rather
suspected the honesty of the Indians amongst whom we were
travelling, we appointed a watch to guard our horses and our per-
sons during the night. Our bed was nothing more than a blanket
spread out on the kind lap of nature ; and our pillow either a log

Z

338 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

After stopping to taks our repast this day, I happened
to be a little backward in repacking my horses, and not
wishing to detain my companions, (for we had all agreed
to wait for each other,) I desired them to proceed slowly,
and I would overtake them. Accordingly they did ; but
the path forking out into two or three directions, I un-
fortunately took the wrong, and was some time before I
found out my error. As I could not tell whereabout it
was that I had deviated from the right path, I found
myself in an awkward situation. A stranger to this
mode of travelling and the country I was in, I was at a
loss what to do, whether to scour the woods, and perhaps
involve myself in greater intricacies, or return by the
same route to the place from whence I came, and wait
for the next caravan. Shame forbade me doing the
latter, and a wish to pursue my journey induced me to
try the former; therefore, retracing my steps, I pursued
every fork of the path till I could find some track of my
companions; and in this unpromising task I happily suc-
ceeded after three or four trials, and, by a fortunate cir-
cumstance, came up with my party sooner than I other-
wise should have done. About twelve miles from the
lake there is a deep river, called the Tansypaho, which

of wood, or our wallet laid under our Lead. In this manner (after
sitting round our fire till we had finished our homely repast) would
we welcome that sweet destroyer of all human cares ; and commit-
ting ourselves to the protection of an all-seeing Being, would bury
all the toils and labours of the day in the silken bands of sleep.
Our situation brought to my mind Vii-gil's description of a peasant :
" Ipse dies agitat fessos ; fususque per herbam
Ignis ubi in medio, et socii cratera coronant ;"
though we wanted the latter part of this picture to make our
situations perfectly similar.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 339

lies directly in the course from Natchez to Orleans. As
this river is not fordable, we were obliged to unpack our
horses and swim them across, and they were in the very
act of executing this when I came up with them. I had
made'^ the banks of this river twice before in my pursuit
of them ; and in one of my wanderings I stumbled upon
an Indian plantation, where I saw a good deal of corn
sowed, but no house. I traced every path which led to
this river, hoping to come up with them before they
crossed it ; which, luckily, I did. There were two or
three plantations on the opposite shore, lately formed
by some new settlers. They kindly lent us a canoe, in
which we transported ourselves and baggage; otherwise
we must have made a raft and swam across with it. This
place was fifteen miles from the mouth of the river, and
is the last settlement to be met with till you arrive
within thirty miles of Natchez : the distance between the
two extremes being 115 miles. It was four o'clock when
we arrived at this stream ; and as we stopped at one of
the plantations (which was possessed by a Mr. Cooper)
to lay in some bread, cheese, &c. &c., it was nearly sun-
down ere we left his house. However, we proceeded
three miles further that evening, when, having found a
clear stream of water, we unpacked our horses, and en-
camped for the evening. The next morning, —

June 23rd, 1797, — we pursued our journey, and en-
camped about the middle of the day on the side of a hill,
at the bottom of which ran a clear stream of water. In
the evening, however, we were not quite so fortunate,
as we were obliged to put up with some stagna7it luater
we found lying iri a holloiu made by a fallen tree, and

* That is, approached.

■L 2

340 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

which (from the dry weather preceding) must have lain
there some time. However, it was very acceptable to us,
as we had continued our course longer than we intended
on account of our not meeting with any ; and we were at
one time in doubt whether we should or not. We were
aware of the excessive dryness of the country through
which we had to travel, and had provided ourselves with
cantines on that account. These cantines are tin vessels
holding about two quarts, and are slung round the
shoulders by a belt, like a soldier's cartouch-box. The
excessive heat of the country prevents a person from
carrying them, except when it is absolutely necessary ;
and for the same reason they do not last long when once
filled. It must be understood, that the country through
which we are now travelling (West Florida) is of a dry,
sandy soil, and situated in a very hot climate : conse-
quently, whatever moisture falls on the ground does not
long continue there ; and the little streams which flow in
winter are dry long before the approach of summer. This
apparent drought is compensated in a great measure by
exceeding heavy dews which fall during the night, and
which have come down so profusely, that in the morning
(after lying exposed in the open air under a tree) I have
found my blankets and clothes completely wet through.
This, no doubt, relieved us a great deal from the pains
arising from excessive thirst, which can only be con-
ceived by those who have experienced them. When I at
first observed this prodigious effect of the condensation of
the vapours raised during the day, I supposed that we
should all have been laid up by a violent fit of illness,
on account of our exposure to it. But so perfectly does
nature conform to herself, that we never sufiered the least

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 341

incouvenience from it : in fact, mj companions (who had
been more accustomed to the woods than I) laughed at me
when I mentioned my apprehensions ; and it is a notori-
ous fact, that persons habituated to this mode of living
will bear every change of weather, and every exposure to
storms and climate, without experiencing any injurious
eiTects : at once proving it to be the most healthy, and
consequently the most natural, state of being.

Saturday, June 2Ath. — About eight o'clock in the morn-
ing we came to a small stream called Tickapoo, which is
forty miles from Cooper's. The banks of this current for
some distance are overgrown with shrubs and cane-trees,
which rendered the passage rather difficult of access ;
and it was so cut up with different winding paths, that
it appeared like a maze, and we were obliged to hallo
to each other in order to get together ; and owing to our
taking different paths, it was some time ere we collected
together again on the opposite shore. We actually did
miss one of our companions, and giving him up for lost,
proceeded on without him. However, he found us out a
little after we had encamped that evening.

Sunday, June 25th. — About eight o'clock we came to
the Aumete river. The banks of this river, like the one
just mentioned, were almost impenetrable through the
small wood growing thereon. Immediately on the borders
of the river we observed an old encamping ground on
each side ; consequently we supposed that this was the
common crossing place. These encamping grounds are
spots which you often meet with in the woods, and are
known by the remains of fires, trees cut down, a well
trodden surface, &c. ; but they are more particularly ol)-
served on the borders of rivers, because, as the Indians

342 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

generally fix upon the most shallow part of the stream
for their crossing place, this part becomes more fre-
quented ; and as they generally halt before they pass
over, there comes (in course of time) to be a considerable
clearance made.

On our approaching the river we found it was fordable
for our horses, we therefore dispatched one of our com-
panions each way to try if they could discover a shallow
place in the river that we could pass without unpacking
our horses. Unable to penetrate far on the banks, they
soon returned without efiect ; and as there was no other
resource, we set about impacking our horses, and, jump-
ing into the water, carried our luggage across upon our
shoulders.

From the opposite shore (which was by far the deepest,
being over our heads) some kind hand had felled a large
tree, which (remaining entangled in the banks) lay about
three or four feet below the surface of the water. Wading
up to our middles towards this tree, we mounted its
trunk, and with a slow and trembling step reached the
opposite shore in safety. This was repeated one by one
several times, ere we had brought the whole of our
baggage over, and consequently took us up some time.
Then, driving our horses across, we tarried a little while
and took some refreshment, whilst our cattle were brousing
about among the bushes. When my companions found
that they had to wade through the water, with all the
sang f void in the jworld, they jumped in without ofiering
to take off their clothes (which I have observed con-
sisted only of a pair of overhauls and a coarse hunting
shirt), and when they had finished their labour, suffered
iheir wet clothes to remain and to get dry on their

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 343

backs. They told rae it was more troublesome and un-
pleasant to shift and reshift their dress, than to follow the
method they had pursued ; and as I always think that
those habits and customs which long practice has pointed
out are far preferable to any speculative opinions, I fol-
lowed their advice, and would certainly recommend the
same to persons travelling in this manner. It keeps the
body cool in travelling ; and I have afterwards often
wished for a shower of rain to repeat the experiment.

About six miles from the Aumete is the Commete
river ; it is not so large a current as the former. It is
said that they join below and form one stream.

Soon after leaving the Commete, we came to a place
called the Hurricane. Here we saw the sad remains of a
violent tornado, which ravaged this country some years
back, and whose effects were observable over a vast ex-
tent of territory. It began in the Appaloosa country, in
the southern part of Louisiana, and, crossing the Missis-
sippi, proceeded as far as the Chactaw nation of Indians,
sweeping everything before it like a torrent, and making
a complete avenue through the woods nearly three hun-
dred miles long, and seven in width : the pliant tender
bramble, as well as the tall and sturdy oak, fell a victim
to its desolating fury ; and they all lie now, involved in
one common ruin, a monument of the prodigious effects
of this phenomenon. It took us nearly the whole after-
noon in passing this wreck of nature. The tall pines and
enormous oaks opposed their bare trunks to our progress,
and forced us to go a circuitous route to attain the oppo-
site * shore.

* I say, slwre, because the hurricane has produced a chasm in
the woods like the bed of a river.

344 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

This circumstance delayed us so long that we could not
proceed to the place where we had expected to encamp
that night, and where we were in hopes of finding water ;
for we had passed nearly the whole of the day without
any. It began now to grow dark, and the scouts we had
dispatched out into every valley we saw returned with
the mournful tidings of their not being able to discover
any water. Overcome with the oppressive heat of the
sun, and our mouths parching with thirst, we determined
to pursue our journey till we could obtain some. We
continued on, till ourselves and our horses were com-
pletely subdued with fatigue, so that we were obliged to
give up the pursuit, and with it the object of our wishes.
We encamped on the side of a hill abounding with grass,
and every profusion of nature, except the one we so much
desired ; and, kindling a fire, laid ourselves down upon
our blankets, and wished to have forgotten all our cares
and wants in gentle sleep. But, alas! the wants of nature
were superior to those of indulgence ; and we were pre-
vented from taking any rest through the afflictive suffer-
ance of excessive thirst. Unable to sleep, I rose about
midnight, and directing my steps a little way from the
camp, found the grass wet under my feet. I immediately
recollected the kind substitute which nature has intended
for these rainless countries, and found that the dew had
by this time began to fall in considerable quantities. I
soon communicated the happy discovery to my compa-
nions, who, by plucking up a quantity of the grass and
drawing it through their mouths, agreeably satisfied their
thirstiness, and slept in peace till morning.

This incident, which under any other circumstances we
should have despised, afforded us great relief. However, if

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 345

we had waited a few hours longer, nature would have
done for us what we had so long sought for in vain ; for
when the morning light dawned upon us, we found our
bodies wet to the skin by the profuseness of the dew
which had fallen in the night ; so that by sunrise we
were quite refreshed, and ready to pursue our course, which
happily was near a termination ; for the same morning, —

Monday, June '2,Qth, — about nine o'clock, we came to a
settlement about a mile from the Hona Chito river. This
is the most frontier settlement of the district of Natchez,
and is about thirty miles from the town. We stopped
here and gave our horses some corn, which they did not
seem to relish so well as the wild food they had been
used to ; we also got some milk for ourselves, and made
our breakfast. Leaving this place, we proceeded down
to the river. It is a pretty rapid stream, though not of
any great size : the fording place is fifty miles from its
mouth. We stopped here some little time and bathed,
whilst our horses ranged about in the cane-brakes. We
had by this time approached within the limits of the
United States, which extend as far as the 31st degree of
north latitude.

We slept this evening at the house of a Mr. Cooper,
distant from Natchez about fifteen miles. This was the
first regular plantation we came to, though we passed
several others of inferior note. Here we got a good pas-
ture for our horses, and a good supper for ourselves :
that is, good, for the situation and state of society we
were now in ; though we could not get any beds even
here ; but after the table was removed, we spread our
blankets on the floor in the same manner as we did in
the woods. The next day, —

346 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

Tuesday, June 27 th, — we arrived at Natchez, having
been six days in performing a journey of 200 miles; not
above forty miles of which may be said to be inhabited.
As to the tract of land over which we travelled, it
was for the most part a light, sandy soil, and overgrown
throughout its whole extent with large tall pines ; very
little of any other kind of wood being seen here, except
on the immediate banks of the rivers. These pines are
of the species which is called by the inhabitants " pitch
pine," and grow to an enormous height and vast size :
they are bare of branches to near their tops ; so that in
travelling through them they appear like a grove of large
masts, which has a very curious effect. In several places
near the lake we saw the signs of persons having been
there to make pitch, tar, turpentine, &c., from these
trees : these articles they take to New Orleans, and turn
to a good account. Owing to the looseness of the soil,
and the height of their trunks, these trees were often
blown down by the wind, and they afforded us a most
excellent fuel for our fires. We generally used to con-
trive to make our fires against the sides of one of their
enormous trunks, and with the scattered limbs to raise
such a conflagration, that we have been sometimes fright-
ened at the works of our own hands. So exceedingly
inflammable are these trees, that I have oftentimes laid a
small fire at their roots when they have been standing in
the ground, and in a few minutes this vast pile of wood
has been enveloped in flames.

The surface of the ground is generally level till you
approach within a few miles of Natchez, when it begins
to assume a more hilly appearance. These are all the
remarks on the face of the country which I am able to

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 347

make to you. In a tract of land where there is so great
an uniformitj, you must not expect a great detail of
particulars. With respect to the possessors of it, what*
ever pretentions the Natchez or Alibamon tribe of Indians
may have to it, I believe the Chactaw nation asserts its
right to it; but of this I am not certain, as there are a
number of tribes just expiring, and already extinct, in
this quarter of America. I was happy to see Natchez
again after so long an absence, as I had by this time
become acquainted with several persons in it. Whilst
stopping here this time, I put up at the house of a
Mr. Routh, who lives about a quarter of a mile out of the
town. Mr. Robb, of Pennsylvania, one of my travelling
companions, put up at the same place. As this gentle-
man was proceeding to the United States through the
wilderness as well as myself, we agreed to collect a party
and start as soon as possible. Near thirty people soon
joined us, and we appointed Seltzer's tavern, about twelve
miles on the road leading to the wilderness, as our place
of rendezvous, where we were all to meet on

Tuesday, Uh July. — As we had nothing to do here
more than to rest our horses, and get ready for our tedious
journey, we began to prepare every thing as expeditiously
as possible. We found there was no beef to be got in
the place; but our host obliged us by killing an ox on
purpose for us, which he dried and prepared fit for pack-
ing. We stood in want also of biscuit, which we could
not readily procure here. There was only one man who
knew how to make it, and that was a baker in the fort,
who was a Spaniard ; to him we applied, and after a good
deal of entreaty (for he was obliged to do it clandestinely)
he made us a quarter of a hundredweight. Here we got

348 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

our horses fresh shod, and likewise had some iron hobbles

made for them, to prevent their being stolen by the Indians.

As we calculated upon a journey of twenty-one days, we

laid in our provisions accordingly, which consisted of the

following articles : —

. 15 lbs. biscuit

6 „ flour

12 „ bacon

10 „ dried beef

3 „ rice
1^ „ coffee

4 „ sugar

You will wonder perhaps at seeing the two last articles ;
but having experienced their beneficial effects in coming
from ]!^ew Orleans, we were determined to continue them
through the whole of our journey. They not only afforded
us nourishment, but invigorated our spirits, and also fur-
nished us with a luxury which served to cheer us up in our
tedious journey, and to reconcile us more to our exiled
situation. We had also furnished ourselves with some
Indian corn, which had been roasted, and afterwards
ground to a powder. This is an excellent article in cases
of extreme necessity, as a person may exist upon a spoon-
ful of this a day, without experiencing any ill effects
from hunger. It is what the Indians always furnish
themselves with when they go out to war, being light in
carriage, and efficacious in its effects. We took about a
pint apiece of it, — more for the sake of a preventative
against want, (in case we should be delayed on the road,)
than any real service we intended to put it to. It will
be seen, however, in the sequel, that we were reduced to
the necessity of resorting to this expedient ere we arrived
at the end of our journey. This being the anniversary

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 349

of the independence of the United States of America, it
was intended to be kept as a festival by all the inha-
bitants who were hostile to the Spanish government. Mr.
Ellicot and Lieutenant Pope gave a grand entertainment
in the town, to which they were kind enough to invite
me; but this being the day we had fixed for our depar-
ture, I could not attend them, though I should very much
have wished to be present at their meeting.

Our place of rendezvous, I have already observed to
you, was about twelve miles on the road : thither, then,
we repaired about three o'clock this afternoon. We
arrived there about an hour before sunset, and found
several of our party had proceeded on to Grindstone Ford,
about fifty miles farther on the road, and the last settle-
ment on entering the wilderness; here they said they
would wait for us till Saturday. Some of our party, how-
ever, had not yet reached us, so that we tarried till the
afternoon of the next day, —

July 5th, — when we were joined by five or six others,
and in the evening we proceeded on to Mr. Carradine's
(about seven miles on the road), where we found good
pasture for our horses, and accommodations for ourselves.
It will be observed that the word " good " is a mere re-
lative term, and must be taken merely as spoken in refer-
ence to our situation, and the conveniences and state of
the country. I shall by and bye enter upon the actual
state of society and manners of living, when I come to
treat upon that subject generally. Next day, —

July 6th, — we went to Cole's Creek (eight miles) to
dinner. We proceeded but slowly, in order that any other
stragglers of our party behind might come up with us.
After taking some refreshment at a plantation we saw on

350 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

the road, we proceeded on about ten miles farther, and,
as there was no house near us, we pitched our encamp-
ment for that night in the open woods, by the side of a
running stream; and next morning, —

July ^th, — pursued our course, and about sundown
got to Grindstone Ford. This is the principal branch of
the Bayou Pierre, and is situated about fifty or sixty
miles from its mouth. The settlements about are not
very numerous. There was formerly a mill built across
the stream ; but, owing to a curious circumstance, this has
shared the fate of all other water-mills in the country :
for it must be observed that there are a great many cray-
fish hereabouts, and these animals undermine all the
dams which have ever been built, and soon make a vent
for the water, which terminates in the total destruction of
the dam. This place is situated about sixty miles from
Natchez, and is the most northern frontier settlement in
the district. From this place, then, we have to date our
departure into the wilderness; and here we have to bid
adieu to all marks of civilization till we arrive at the
borders of the Cumberland river, in the state of Tenes-
see, a distance of about six hundred miles; and then we
have to proceed through another wilderness of about
three hundred miles; and after that, through a kind of
half-civilized country, of about a thousand miles more,
ere we should reach New York, the place of my destina-
tion;— making the whole distance from New York to
New Orleans, by land, upwards of two thousand miles, —
more than a thousand miles of which was through a totally
uninhabited and wild country, and one-half of the re-
maining part not much better. Having now brought
you to the verge of the district of Natchez, and about to

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 351

take mj leave of it, perhaps for ever, I shall attempt to
give you some description of the state of society, and the
mode of living amongst the inhabitants.

In contemplating this part of America, we ought
rather to anticipate what it will be, than to dwell upon
what it actually is ; for the country is so young (at least,
has been kept back so much by the despotic government
of the Spaniards), that it can scarcely be said to have
formed itself into a characteristic body of people. If
we look forwards, however, to a few years, when the mild
government of the United States of America shall have
meliorated the condition of the inhabitants, and given
free encouragement to the progress of the arts of civilized
life, and the diffusion of truth in whatever form she ap-
pears, we may flatter ourselves with the prospect of be-
holding this one of the first cities, both for commerce
and the diffusion of general knowledge, in the western
territory of America. As to its present state, owing to
the disadvantages already mentioned, it is not very for-
ward either in the luxuries or even the conveniences of
life, many of the people in the country living in that
state which characterizes the second classes of settlers
in America. A log-house built upon their plantation,
which is in general worked by negro slaves, together
with a few cattle and articles of husbandry, forms their
chief treasure, as well as the ultimate happiness of the
country people ; and farther than this their ideas do not
seem to extend. Lately, however, some sensible people
and men of education have come down to settle amongst
them, allured by the prospect of the country being de-
livered up to the Americans. To show you the low state
of accommodation, it will only be necessary to advert
again to our journey both in and out of the district.

352 JOURJfAL OF A TOUR.

On either road we were obliged so to manage our daily
journey, that we might arrive at a plantation in the
evening where we were likely to get pasture for our
horses : and even this was not always to be had. And
when we did arrive there, a poor hut was our only shelter,
and we were obliged to unpack our horses ourselves, and
turn them into the pasture ; and if we could get a mess
of mush and milk, some fried bacon, or some fresh meat
of any kind, it was as much as we expected, and for this
we were charged enormously high. This ended, our bed
was only changed from the soft carpet of nature for a
hard floor, on which we would strew our blankets and lie
till morning, when, fetching our horses up, and packing
them, we would pursue our course. For my own part, I
always preferred taking what we could get at these houses,
and proceeding on into the woods, to sit down under the
shade of some tree, on the banks of some brook, and
eat it in cleanliness and comfort, rather than be sur-
rounded with such a nest of filth and dirt. The very
house at Grindstone Ford from which I now write this,
and which consists but of one room, is filled with the
bridles, saddles, and baggage of our party, as well as
other lumber belonging to the family. In this, our supper
(consisting merely of mush and milk) is to be cooked ;
and in this (after that was over) we are to take up our
abode for the night. For my own part, rather than be
poisoned with the effluvia of the living, I walked on the
banks of the river till supper-time ; and that over, I
spread my blanket out on a grassplat in the garden, and
there laid me down till morning; yet, even for this rough
fare, they had the impudence to charge us a quarter of a
dollar apiece.

Saturday, July Stk. — The first party which had pro-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 353

ceeded on to this place, finding that we should make too
large a body together, started yesterday on their journey
through the wilderness without us ; and this morning our
party, consisting of thirteen in number, started also. Our
host put us across the creek which runs at the bottom of
his garden, and which is not fordable ; and having all
safely landed on the opposite side, we commenced our
tedious journey. You must observe that the remarks
which I made concerning the paths from New Orleans to
l^atchez, apply in the same manner to this part of our
route ; and we had endeavoured (previous to starting) to
collect what information we could respecting them. The
very next day, —

Sunday, July ^th, — we began to experience one of those
difficulties of which we met numbers ere we had finished
our journey. A little dirty creek, which apparently one
might almost jump across, opposed our progress. This
creek, on sounding it, we found was not fordable ; we
were therefore obliged to unload our horses and swim
them across. As to ourselves, there was fortunately a
large tree lying across the stream elevated near twenty
feet above the surface of the water ; on this with totter-
ing step we were obliged to carry our baggage, which we
did after a deal of trouble and trepidation, whilst exalted
on our narrow lofty bridge. After we had accomplished
this, and got nearly ready for starting again, we observed
a person making towards us on horseback, and soon recol-
lected him to be one of the party which had just preceded
us. He told us that, having encamped a few miles on,
they missed one of their horses in the night, and were
uncertain whether he had strayed from the rest, or been
stolen by the Indians ; but suspecting the former, he had

2 A

354 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

come thus far to see if he could find him, conceiving that
he might be stopped bj the creek from proceeding farther.
However, as we could give him no account of his beast,
he soon left us, and hurried on to join his companions,
who had agreed to wait his return. The next day, —

Monday, July 10th, — we came up with a party of
about forty Indian warriors, who were just returned from
battle on the other side of the JVIississippi. As soon as
they saw us they set up a rude hallo, and ran to meet
us, holding in their hands the scalps they had taken from
their enemies, and grinning with a degree of self-satisfac-
tion at this mark of their prowess in the field of battle.
Turning from this disgusting scene, we entered that part
of their encampment where they were cooking their vic-
tuals, which consisted of the body of a deer which they
had lately killed in the woods. They welcomed us in
their rough manner, by shaking hands and ofiering us the
pipe of peace ; which we were obliged to accept, otherwise
we should have affronted them. As we could not under-
stand their language, we were unable to hold any conver-
sation with them, though we clearly comprehended their
meaning when they invited us to eat with them, &c. From
them we understood also, that we were in the right path,
which was a piece of information we were happy to hear.
We soon left them, and proceeding on our course arrived on

Wednesday, July 12th, at what is called the Forks of
the Path ; for here one branch 'etxends into the Cliactaw
nation, and the other (which we ought to pursue) into
■the Chickasaw nation. The path leading to the Chactaw
nation was by far the most beaten, and is the one which
we should have taken, had we not met some Indians just
on the spot, who set us right. These Indians were Chac-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 355

taws, and informed us by signs that there was a river
about two miles off on their path; then putting his hand
to his head in a reclining posture, and pointing to and
pronouncing the word Chactaw, and holding up one finger,
gave us to understand that it was one sleep {i.e. a day) to
the Chactaw nation or village; or it was that distance
which a person might pass over in a day, which with
them is about twenty-five miles. In the same manner
he informed us that it was five sleeps to the Chickasaw
nation. We then by signs gave him to understand that
we wished to be informed whether we might with safety
pursue the path we were just going to take, or whether
it might not lead us out of the way. He easily compre-
hended our meaning ; and taking up a little* stick which
lay on the grass, and breaking it off at one end, began to
draw on the ground the direction of the principal paths
we should meet with, and pointed particularly at the one
which we ought to pursue, at the same time uttering some
strange sound which we could not understand. Our ge-
neral course to this place seemed to be about east-north-
east or north-east-by-north. The land, I observed, ap-
peared to get gradually worse and worse as we proceeded
from Natchez. Instead of that fine black mould imme-
diately in the vicinity of the town, every day's journey
exposed a more sandy and gravelly soil. For these last
two days we passed through a deal of open woods and
prairie (meadow) land ; not that soft, fertile meadow land
which properly goes by the name oi prairie, but partaking
more of the nature of what are more properly called Bar-
rens, because the openness of the woods and the deficiency
of timber arises more from a natural unfruitfulness than
too great a luxuriance of soil.

2 A 2

356 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

Our journey thus far had been (generally speaking)
through a level country; but on taking the Chickasaw
path, the land assumed a different appearance: from a
smooth open road, it became rough, broken, and bushy;
and this in a constant progressive increase till we arrived
at Nashville. However, the general nature of the soil of
the country is not to be taken from the particular parts
through which we travelled, as these paths are generally
carried over the highest, and consequently the worst,
ground, in order to prevent swamps and other impedi-
ments arising from a low situation. After leaving the
Chactaw path, (which, I have already observed, was pretty
well beaten,) we got upon one which we could scarcely
trace, being in many places hardly discernible. As we
were proceeding along upon it this afternoon, with our
packhorses quietly following, making in the whole a
long string of between thirty and forty horses, by some
unfortunate accident, the girths belonging to one of them
gave way, and the pack slipping round under the horse's
belly, he was so frightened that he set off into the woods
as fast as his legs could carry him, with the pack swing-
ing and knocking against every tree, like a dog with a
kettle to his tail. The other horses seeing this, set off
also; and in a moment we were left in a deplorable
situation. Bereft of all our provisions and clothes, and
deprived of every means of continuing our journey, we
had no other resource but riding after them, and endea-
vouring to run them down. Some of these horses were
laden wholly with dollars, the proceeds of the cargo
which some of our party had taken down the river. As
there was no time for hesitation, we sallied after them
with all the speed imaginable, not regarding bogs or trunks

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 357

ofr ees which were continually in our way. The fore-
most were out of sight presently ; some of the latter ones
we caught soon, and delivered them to our companions
whilst we went after the rest. And as they were quite
out of sight, I was witness to a fact which I had often
heard mentioned with admiration and wonder; this was,
the astonishing power which the Indians (and, in fact, all
persons brought up in this mode of living) have of trac-
ing the footsteps of any animal they are in pursuit of.
In full speed did I see these men pursue the traces of the
horses, and this over ground where it appeared to me
impossible that the foot should leave any impression.
Sometimes they would lose the track ; but in a moment,
recollecting themselves, they would fall into it again, and
pursue it with all the accuracy imaginable. In too many
places we saw evident marks that we were right in our
pursuit, for the track was scattered with girths, kettles,
bags, and, in fact, everything with which the horse was
loaded ; and though we might recover the beasts, we
never expected to gather together all the different articles
they had scattered about the woods. There were two
others in company with myself; as to the rest, they had
taken different routes. After continuing in this manner
for near an hour, we happily caught a glimpse of the
object of our pursuit, and soon after could clearly discern
four horses ahead, running at full speed through the
woods. We immediately redoubled our pace, and fetching
a circuit round a hill, came up with and hemmed in three
of them, which we instantly secured. As to the other, he
gave us the slip ; and as he belonged to one of those who
were with us in the pursuit, and as there was no time to
be lost, he set off after him, leaving us to take care of

358 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

tliosc we had caught. Fortunately for me, one of these
horses happened to be mine, and, what was still more
fortunate, his pack was perfectly secure ; nor was there a
single thing missing from his back. Having thus on our
part formed an almost successful completion to our pur-
suit, we began to think about returning to our com-
panions. But where were they to be found? We had
been riding at full speed, in a wild and confused manner,
through the woods, and had been wholly inattentive to
our course ; and in what direction we ought to go in
order to find them we knew not. In a few minutes we
were scattered for miles through the woods, and possibly
they might have proceeded on a course totally different
from ours.

Our only resource was to return the same way by
which we came ; that is, by retracing those steps which
we had so speedily hurried over ; by this means too, we
might be enabled to recover some of the scattered fragments
which we saw lying on our way. My companion (there
being only one with me now) was an excellent woods-
man ; and I the more readily trusted myself to his guid-
ance, well knowing that he would not easily mistake the
track; accordingly, having come to this resolution, we
hastened our march to meet the remainder of our party.
On our way we collected together a great many things
which had been forced from the packs, and soon after sun-
set had the satisfaction to arrive at the very spot where
the unfortunate accident commenced. But, not meeting
any of our companions, we began to consider what had
best be done ; when at a little distance we discovered
the smoke of a fire, and on our near approach, the faces
of our fellow-travellers. On inquiry, we found that three

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 359

of our party were still absent ; but as they were good
v/oodsmen, we were under no apprehension about their
missing us. We had scarcely unpacked our horses, and
sat down to rest ourselves from the fatigues of the chase,
ere two of our companions made their appearance, lead-
ing their horses loaded with the scattered fragments of
their luggage, which they had picked up in the woods.
Still, however, there was the one wanting who had
separated from zis; and as it began to grow dark, we were
fearful he would not be able to discover the track ; in
order, therefore, to help him on his way, (if he were
within hearing,) we discharged in volleys all the firearms
we had with us, and made the woods ring again with the
echo. This we continued at intervals, till, giving him up
for that night, we lay ourselves down to rest ; and in the
morning, —

Thursday, July I3th, — we sent out sccuts into the
woods, who, by shouting and making a noise, might be
able to discover him ; for we did not wish to leave our
companion in distress, nor to proceed till we had tried
every mean to discover him. About nine o'clock, how-
ever, we had the pleasure to see him make his appear-
ance, and with him the horse we had left him in pursuit
of. He informed us that he lost sight of him again,
and was obliged to give over the chase when the evening
set in, as it was so dark he could not see the tracks ; get-
ting off his horse therefore, and tying him to a tree, he
lay down on the grass till the morning, when by day-
light he renewed the pursuit, and soon after discovered
him grazing in a valley not far from where he took up
his night's lodging. AVe were very happy when we found
that this accident, which might have been attended with

360 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

unpleasant and even serious consequences, terminated so
favourably, that not a single horse or man was missing;
though, as I observed to you before, we were scattered so
widely in the woods. We still found, however, some of
our luggage missing ; but, as we had been so fortunate
hitherto, we determined to try to recover this also ; accord-
ingly, one of our party who was an excellent woodsman,
followed the tracks till he came up with it ; and on
our comparing our observations together, we found that
there was but one article missing out of the whole bag-
gage, and that was only a tin cup. We thought it not
worth while to spend any more time in this neighbour-
hood ; accordingly, about the middle of the day we
formed ourselves into a line, and proceeded on our jour-
ney.

This same night, however, we had another unfortunate
accident, which delayed us nearly the same time. This
was no less than our camp being surprised in the night,
and two of our horses stolen, by the Indians. Since our
departure from Natchez we had never once taken the pre-
caution to watch during the night. The Indians though
they all appear very kind and civil to you when you meet
with them on your way, and would not offer to molest you,
or take anything from you, yet, if your back be turned
but for a moment, or if they can come upon you unsus-
pected and unawares, think it no crime to steal privately
whatever comes in their way. This was the case now.
Some Indians had discovered us on our journey, (though
unseen by us,) and had lain in wait for our evening's en-
campment. When we were all asleep, they led off two
of our horses. We did not discover it till the morning,
when, going to collect them all together in order to

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 361

start, we found two of them missing. We immediately
dispatched a couple of our best woodsmen to scour the
woods, and see if they could fall in with their tracks.
They soon returned, and said that they had discovered
the traces of the horses, accompanied with the footsteps of
two Indians, and that their direction appeared to be to-
wards the Chactaw nation. Immediately four of us armed
ourselves, and set off in pursuit of these robbers, deter-
mined at all events to bring them back if we could dis-
cover them. We followed their tracks for near four hours,
when, seeing no prospect of coming up with them, (as it
was most probable that they had stolen them in the former
part of the night, and had proceeded on as fast as we did,)
we were obliged reluctantly to give up the pursuit, and
return once more to our companions, comforting ourselves
with that universal consolation, that " it was well it was
no worse.'' These two horses belonged to one of those
five Dutchmen in our party who, I before mentioned to
you, undertook to work a boat against the stream of the
Mississippi. We endeavoured to alleviate his loss by
dividing his baggage amongst us to be carried, and by
otherwise managing it so that he should not have to walk.
After two such unfortunate events, we were in hopes that
the remainder of our journey would have been unruflfled
and undisturbed. Under this idea we stopped early this
evening, and endeavoured to recruit our spirits and re-
fresh our horses by a long rest. The sun was far above
the horizon, when we encamped in a smooth plain almost
clear of woods, and through which ran a pure, limpid
stream, whose gentle current seemed to tempt us to stop
and partake of its bounty. We saw the remains of an
Indian encampment on its banks. There we stopped, and

362 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

unloading our horses, suffered them to range at large in
the woods ; and, kindling a fire, dressed what homely pro-
visions we had brought with us, and then lay ourselves
down to rest; and in the morning, —

Friday, July lUh, — we awoke perfectly refreshed, and
ready to pursue our journey. Our path now lay over a
very uneven tract of land, of a gravelly, barren soil, afford-
ing us very little good pasture for our horses, or water for
ourselves. Several nights since we left Natchez have we
been obliged to travel after dark, in search of this most
necessary article ; and when we have met with any, it
has been scarcely discoverable — lying in a little hollow,
and overgrown with bushes and brambles, and perhaps
the resort of thousands of living animals. This we could
only conjecture from similar situations seen in the day ;
for it was so dark that nothing of the kind was discover-
able by us ; and so far would necessity triumph over the
imagination, that we have thought ourselves extremely
fortunate, and have uttered the most lively expressions of
joy, at the discovery of a nasty dirty puddle of water.

I have already mentioned to you that we had five
Dutchmen in our company. Ill fortune seemed to have
attended these men throughout the whole of their jour-
ney. The object of their expedition (the navigation of a
boat against the stream of the Mississippi) had failed,
by which they had lost a considerable sum of money.
Two of their horses had been stolen on their way home ;
and now, to crown the whole, three of their party were
taken ill on their journey. Two of them were not very
well when they started ; but so great was their desire to
return home, that they determined to accompany us at all
events. They bore up through the former part of their

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 363

journey very well ; but this fresh misfortune coming
upon them when they were so ill prepared to bear it.
seemed to overcome them, and on

Sunday, July 16fh, they declared their inability to
proceed any farther with us. It was then about eleven
o'clock ; we had stopped to rest ourselves and take
some refreshment at an old encamping ground of the
Indians. It was situated on the border of some waters
whose taste was wholesome, but whose look was not very
inviting. We were unwilling to leave them in this forlorn
and destitute situation, surrounded on all sides by an
Indian country, and cut off from all hope of aid and assist-
ance ; but as it was useless for us to remain with them,
(as we could afford them no help,) we were obliged to
pursue our journey, as our provisions would not last us if
we tarried here any time. We explained to them the
motives of our conduct, and they allowed the justness of
our observations. Two of their countrymen, they said,
had agreed to stay with them ; and these would be suf-
ficent to attend upon them. All that they requested
of us was that we would send the first Indian who under-
stood the use of herbs to them, that they might take
some active measures for their recovery. This we pro-
mised to do, and as we were not above two days' jour-
ney from the Chickasaw village, we were in hopes we
could soon comply with their request. There being a
number of poles and a quantity of the bark of trees
scattered about, (the remains of old encampments,) we
fixed them a kind of tent before Ave departed, and made
their lodging as comfortable as the nature of the place
would allow : then having spared them what provisions we
could, and left them a kettle to dress their victuals in, we

364 JOURNAL OF A TOUE.

reluctantly bade them adieu, and left them resigned to their
fate. We passed that afternoon through an almost imper-
vious thicket, caused bj a tremendous hurricane which
happened in this country some time back. The brambles
and bushes had grown up in such quantities between the
trunks of the fallen trees, as to render it nearly impass-
able ; but as it extended a considerable way, the Indians
had trodden a path through it, by means of which, after
some difficulty, we were enabled to arrive at the opposite
side. The next day, —

Monday, July 1 7^A, — we found two or three paths join
in with the one we were pursuing, and to be apparently
concentrating to one point, which plainly indicated to us
our near approach to some village. We expected to have
fallen in with some Indian habitation that evening ; but we
passed the whole day without having seen a living crea-
ture, and at night encamped as secretly as we could,
keeping a pretty good look out after our horses. Next
day,—

Tuesday, July 18th, — we observed the path bear more
evident marks of being frequented, and in one or two
places we noticed the fresh tracks of a horse, and of an
Indian foot. Their direction was towards us, so that they
must have passed us unnoticed in the woods. About
ten o'clock we observed an Indian corn-field, round
which some bushes and brambles were strewed, in order
to keep off the wild animals. About eleven we were
agreeably entertained at the sight of an Indian settle-
ment ; I say, " agreeably," because we were by this not
only sure that we were in the right path, but, as the
corn was ripe, we flattered ourselves that we should be
enabled to get some, the taste of which would be very grate-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 365

ful after so long an abstinence from all kinds of vege-
tables. On our approaching the hut, an old grey-headed
Indian came out to meet us : he saluted us in a familar
style, by shaking our hands and uttering some incoherent
sound. He then, pointing to the sun, and to his corn-
field, gave us to understand that it was time for us
to stop and refresh ourselves ; and as we longed very
much for some of the old man's roasting ears,'^ we were
not very backward in comprehending his meaning. We
accordingly alighted near the old man's habitation, and
unpacking our horses, turned them into the woods to
graze. We had no sooner done this, than we were sur-
rounded by the whole family, as well as by several other
Indians, whom curiosity had brought to the spot. Some
children were immediately dispatched into the field to
fetch us some ears of corn, and which were laid over the
fire before the house in order to roast. In the meantime,
the Indians about us began to be very inquisitive and
curious to know what we had brought with us; at the
same time they did not offer to molest us, or take any
improper liberties with our luggage ; for, if they were in-
advertently and undesignedly carried to too great lengths
in any part of their conduct, the least check from us in-
duced them to desist. This man's dwelling was situated
upon an eminence, from which he could behold the sur-
rounding country for a great way. His fields consisted
of corn planted irregularly through a kind of natural
meadow; for they are too indolent to form a settlement
where the country requires to be cleared. A clear spring
broke out just under the hill, which watered the whole

* Ears of the Indian corn or maize, which are very good either
roasted or boiled, and taste somewhat like peas.

366 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

valley, and rendered it very fertile. He had just planted
corn enough to last him till winter ; and when that time
arrives, you would find him away from his home, and far
in the woods in search of game, traversing the continent
with his family from one extreme to the other. At the
approach of spring he would return, perhaps, to his old
dwelling, which (if not possessed by another) he would
enter, and plant with another crop of corn. But if,
on the other hand, one more fortunate had arrived
there before him, instead of contesting the point of right
with him, he would go to another place unoccupied :
possession in this country being not only nine parts,
but the whole of the law. After feasting very heartily
upon these roasting ears which the little Indians had
cooked for us, we went round to view all the parti-
culars of this Indian settlement. It consisted of three
principal huts, one of which might be said to be his win-
ter habitation, and another his summer habitation, besides
a kind of hovel where he kept skins, furs, gun, powder,
tobacco, tomahawk, dancing bells, and a few implements
of husbandry. His winter hut consisted of a few stakes
irregularly placed in the ground, and plastered up on all
sides with mud, so that there were only two openings —
the one to enter, and the other at the top for the emission
of the smoke. On looking into this, I observed two or
three female Indians, who were employed about something
or another, but the darkness of the place prevented me
from precisely ascertaining what it was. In cold weather
the family all assemble in this place, and shutting the
door and kindling a fire in the middle, pass away days
and nights in the midst of filth and dirt. His summer
habitation is, in my opinion, a much more comfortable

JOURXAL OF A TOUR. 3G7

one, and well adapted to the climate. It is built a few
paces from the other, and consists of nothing more than
four upright posts, on which is supported a kind of
thatched roof, formed of the husks and leaves of the
Indian corn. It is meant only as a protection from the
heat of the sun by day, and a shelter from rain in the
night. About three feet from the ground there are trans-
verse poles proceeding from each post, on which is sup-
ported a layer of cane-stalks, which serves for a bed;
and, according to the family, this bed is made larger or
smaller, on which they all lie down. Their chairs are
nothing more than the stumps of trees, and their drink-
ing vessels the hollow of a gourd. Their days are spent,
when not employed in the chase, in a state of constant
indolence, basking in the sun from morning till night,
thinking it beneath them to toil or labour, except in war
or hunting. The care of their corn-fields is given to the
women, who may be truly called the slaves of the men,
performing all the laborious parts of life, and which in
other countries are committed to the most menial servants.
At the back of the dwelling we observed a little planta-
tion of tobacco, which this family had cultivated for its
own use, it being a favourite article with the Indians.
Seeing us so inquisitive, the old man showed us all the
things appertaining to war. He brought out the war
hells, which are formed of a hollow nut, abcut as big as
one's fist, in which was a stone, which made a hollow
dismal sound. Two or three of these he put on each
wrist, and as many on his feet, and immediately set up
the war dance, going instinctively to the fire and dancing
round it. Whilst the old man was amusing us in this
way, some of the other Indians had got to our baggage

368 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

and stole several things from it, and amongst the rest
a pocket-book, powder-horn, and a tin cup. We imme-
diately discovered the one who had taken the two latter;
but the fellow who stole the powder-horn we could never
find out, though we pretended to be angry with the old
man that he did not exert his authority in order that it
might be restored. Seeing what people we had to deal
with, we determined to set a watch over our luggage to
prevent further depredations. We now began to think
of our fellow-travellers whom we had left behind, and
endeavoured to make ourselves understood, but the old
man could not comprehend our meaning when we at-
tempted to describe their situation. At that instant,
however, we observed the approach of a white man, and
flattered ourselves that in him we should be able to find
an interpreter. This man was one of those of whom
there are a great number, who, from habit and disposi-
tion, prefer the Indian mode of life to that of a more
civilized state; and, from living on the frontiers, and
making occasional incursions into their country, had
come at last to settle amongst them, and be adopted as
one of their children. Some of this class of men are to
be found in all Indian countries ; and it is remarkable
that though this circumstance is well known and very
common, yet you seldom hear of an Indian renouncing
his mode of living or his country, and imposing upon
himself the bonds and shackles of civilized society. We
found in this man a welcome visitor, for he not only in-
formed us of several particulars relative to the country,
but on our relating to him the state of the Dutchmen
whom we had left behind, he told us that this old Indian
passed for a kind of doctor amongst his tribe. We then

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 369

informed him of the request they had made on our leav-
ing them, and which he instantly communicated to the
Indian, who promised to go, hut not without the assur-
ance of being paid for his trouble. I could not but re-
mark, on this particular, how wrongly we had been in-
formed of the Indian character. I began to think, with
Rochefoucault, that all marks of hospitality and friend-
ship amongst nations and kindreds, were shown more for
the sake of having the same returned, than through the
love of virtue itself; and that when a stranger offered
himself for a share of it, where we could not expect to be
repaid, he would probably meet with a repulse, whether
it were in the midst of civilized and refined society, or
amongst the savage nations of I^orth America. Possibly,
an intimate connexion with the white people had taught
them the use of money, of which, however, they seemed to
have but a slight idea, for any piece of silver (whether a
dollar or a. pistareen*) was of the same value to them.

Whilst we were talking to our interpreter, I remarked
the old man very busy in endeavouring to make himself
understood by some of our companions, whom he had
taken aside to communicate some proposals to them. I
observed that he very much amused them, by the frequent
peals of laughter which they continually sent forth. On
my approach to them, I easily comprehended the old
man's meaning, and could not but smile at his mode of
expressing himself, though at the same time I was some-
what shocked at the proposal. This incident I may have
an opportunity of communicating to you in person, per-
haps, one of these days; I shall therefore pass it over
for the present, and proceed to inform you that we did

* About a quarter of a dollar.

2 B

370 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

not leave this place till we saw the old man start on his
journey to our fellow-travellers whom we had left behind.
He put some dried venison in his blanket, and slinging
it across his shoulders, without any other preparation,
set off to find them. As to ourselves, we began to think
of starting also. Our interpreter informed us that it was
thirty miles to the big town, or village of the Chickasaw
Indians we were to pass; and that there was another
white man, who lived about nine miles off, who had a hut
and a plantation, and lived near the place where he him-
self resided. As this was on our way, he agreed to ac-
company us thither, which was an acceptable offer, as the
path now began to be very intricate. He was accordingly
our guide; and as we had tarried at this place so long, we
determined to make the plantation the extent of our day's
journey. We arrived there before sundown, and, kindling
a fire, and fixing our encampment about a quarter of a
mile from the plantation, walked down afterwards to see
the possessor of it, Mr. Mackintosh. We found him to
be much such another character as the one I have just
described. He had early imbibed the habits of the In-
dians, and, wandering into the country, had set himself
down here. The Indians had given him as much land as
he wanted, and he cultivated part of it in a loose and
slovenly manner, though much better than the Indians
themselves. He had got several negroes under him,
whom he employed on his plantation. This I thought
remarkable, as I should have supposed that the Indians
would have guaranteed a state of independence to all
persons within their territories; but I understood that
they never interfered in the internal regulation of domestic
affairs : for those who arrived slaves, so they must remain

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 371

till their masters chose to give them their liberty. On
the contrarj, if any negroes arrived free, (of whom there
were many,) the Indians would support them in their
freedom, and not suffer them to be enslaved. I have
already observed to you, that on my journey down the
Mississippi, I heard that the Chickasaws were on the eve
of a war with the Creek nation of Indians: this had
lately broken out in actual hostilities. Three Creeks had
proceeded within a short distance of the town which we
were approaching, and had killed some of the inhabitants,
and immediately hastened homewards; but a party of
Chickasaws instantly arming themselves, pursued and
killed every one ere they reached their own country.
This adventure took place a few weeks before our arrival
here, and we found them all preparing for war. Mr.
Mackintosh was fortifying his plantation with a regular
stockade, raised about twelve feet high, and formed of
thick planks. This surrounded the house at a convenient
distance, so as to allow free room for the besieged within ; "
and was constructed upon nearly the same plan as those
places which are called "stations" in the United States.
We entered his habitation, which was a poor sorry place,
little better than an Indian hut: though even in this he
was looked upon as a little king by the natives, and ap-
peared to have every thing which such a country affords
in the greatest abundance about him; though he told me
that the Indians (who are a lazy, indolent race, in re-
spect to husbandry) were such incessant beggars, that he
was not only prevented from bettering his situation, but
oftentimes reduced to great straits himself. We asked
him if he could supply us with any provisions, as we
feared we had not enough to last us into the settlements,

2 B 2

372 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

He led us to an outhouse where there hung a quantity of
dried beef and venison, and also some cheeses of his own
making ; but as these last were a miserable article, we de-
clined accepting them. We desired hiui to put us up some
beef, and to get some Indian bread made for us against the
morning, which he promised to do. He told us we should
find the road difficult to find till we got beyond the big
town, and that we had better have a guide with us.
Upon his recommendation we got one, (a white man in the
neighbourhood,) and promised him six dollars to conduct
us a few miles beyond the town. It coming on to rain,
we returned to our camp after visiting the huts of the
negroes, who appeared very much pleased to see so many
white people amongst them. As the rain continued to
increase, we were obliged to remove our encampment
higher up the hill, in order that the water might the
more readily run off", and leave us a dry place to sleep
upon. In the morning, —

Wednesday, July 19 th, — packing our horses, and call-
ing upon Mr. Mackintosh for our bread and beef, (for
which we paid him two dollars,) we put ourselves under
the direction of our guide, and proceeded on our journey.
One of our companions wishing to exchange a horse, as
he was afraid his own would not be able to take him
home, we went a few miles out of our way to call at the
habitation of a man who had got some to dispose of.
We arrived there about the middle of the day, and found
the plantation possessed by a half-Indian ; that is, one
whose mother was an Indian, but whose father was a
white man. He was a tall, athletic man, and was ap-
pointed a kind of commander-in-chief, or leader, as the
natives call it, over the^ forces to be raised against the

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 373

Creeks. There were several other Indian chiefs with
him, who came out to meet us at the gate of the planta-
tion, and who welcomed us there, and invited us to alight
and take some refreshment. I could not but smile at
their offer, as the utmost they could give us was some
Indian bread and milk, together with a little venison ;
however, as even this was acceptable now, we did not
refuse their offer; but, entering the yard, and unpacking
our horses, made ourselves as one of their party and
kindred. In the middle of their hovel we observed a
long stool, on which stood a large iron kettle full of milk:
of this we were invited to partake; therefore, taking
our spoons out of our packs, we all sat round, and soon
finished it. Picture to yourself a dirty hole of a place,
without any other light but what came in at the door,
plastered up on each side with mud, with a rough-hewn
stool, formed with the tomahawk out of the trunk of a tree,
an iron kettle which had served for all the purposes of
life, together with all our spoons dipping into it alter-
nately;— imagine us sitting round this kettle, in this filthy
hut, and in this manner devouring the homely repast
which was set before us, and such an one as we had not
experienced since our departure from Natchez; — imagine
all this, I say, and a thousand other things which at the
time tended to heighten the effect, and you will then be
enabled to form some idea of our situation.

Whilst I was here, one of the Indians, who had got a
couple of sorry horses with him, called me aside, and en-
deavoured to persuade me that my horses would not be
able to carry me home, as the country was very rough,
and the fatigues of the journey destroyed a great many
of them ; and that I should do well to exchange them for

374 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

some fresh ones; adding at the same time, that he had
two excellent ones that were used to the country, and
therefore desirable on that account. I pretended to
believe all he said ; but at the same time evaded his
proposition ; however, he grew so importunate, that I was
at last obliged to give him a flat denial, at which he
seemed somewhat angry, and then accosted another of my
companions in the same way ; but he, seeing the man-
oeuvres he had been practising, repulsed him in the same
manner, and soon after the fellow took his departure.

Not being able to meet with any horses here, we made
the best of our way to the town, and we arrived within
five miles of it that night. We did not care to enter it
that evening, but preferred encamping on the skirts of it,
in order that we might avoid being observed, and that
the next day we might be enabled to proceed a good dis-
tance on the other side, as the Indians are not very desir-
able neighbours, on account of their pilfering disposition.
On our way thither we met with several Indians, all of
whom accosted us, and behaved with the greatest polite-
ness to us. You may be perhaps surprised to hear of
politeness in the wilds of America. To be sure it is not
such as you meet with in a court or ballroom ; but it is
dictated by a much better spirit. There it is a cloak to
hatred, malice, envy, and every evil propensity ; here, it
is the effect of a hospitable"^'' and benign disposition : it is

* Mr. Baily was at this time an instance of his own remark as
to the tendency of desert life to give the white man an Indian pro-
pensity. He seems to have quite forgotten that his polite friends
were on the watch to see -what theycoiild steal, and that they

wonld have left him in the wilds without a horse or a kettle, if

their luck had favoured them. — Ed.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 375

the effusion of a beneficent mind, breaking out in acts of
kindness.

On our way also we observed the remains of several
Indian plantations, which appeared to have been culti-
vated for a few years, and then left a prey to time and
nature. The few peach and apple trees which the owner
had planted were overrun with weeds, and left to be en-
joyed by the first possessor. As some of these were now
ripe, we halted in several places to gather them, claiming
in this respect the rights and privileges of an Indian.

Our encampment this evening was formed as secretly
and as retired as possible, as we were fearful the Indians
might have notice of our arrival, and come and steal our
horses. With this intent we retired about half a mile off
the path, and sat us down in a valley watered by a fine
clear stream, and abounding with. pea-vine, a most grateful
vegetable for the horses. This pea-vine grows naturally
all over the continent of America, and affords excellent
nourishment to the cattle, when it abounds in great
quantities (as was the case here) : it fills the whole place
to the height of four or five feet, entwining itself round
every substance it comes near. As our horses, in such a
pasture as this, did not require to roam about much, we
tied them up to a tree near the place where we slept ;
for, as we had no fire this night, (lest we might be dis-
covered by the Indians,) we were all scattered about at
unequal distances throughout the valley, yet near enough
to join in case of an attack. We had agreed, that who-
ever waked in the night should go round and see that all
the horses were safe ; and in order to guard against any
mistake of their persons, we appointed a watchword ; so
that if we saw one walking about in the night we knew

376 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

how to challenge him. After all the precautions, we laid
us down and retired to rest ; and in the morning, —

Thursday/, July 20th, — we awoke agreeably refreshed
and happy to find everything in perfect safety. We
started early, in order that we might be enabled to make
a long journey to-day. In about an hour we got to the
town. Our approach to it was from an eminence, and as
its situation is in a large open prairie lying in a valley,
the uncouth huts of the Indians, contrasted with the fer-
tile corn-fields, presented a beautiful view. It was not a
regular, compact town, as I expected to find it, but con-
sisted of sets of houses (four or five in a set) scattered at
unequal distances over the whole valley. Between these
clusters of habitations the space was occupied by corn-
fields, which were fenced round with a rough kind of in-
clOsure, formed partly of posts, and partly of light poles
running from one post to another. Some of the houses,
I observed, had gardens, which were fenced round much
in the same manner as their fields, and in which they
planted a few fruit-trees and some vegetables, such as
pumpkins, squashes, &c.

I could not ascertain whether it was a whole family
that lived in each set of houses, or whether it was a
promiscuous and adventitious connexion ; but certain it
is, that in winter time one habitation contains the whole ;
for their ordinary huts are only intended for summer resi-
dences. They have a large house in common, which they
call the hot-house, where they reside in winter. In this
house there is no window, nor any other opening but the
door and the chimney ; and in this several families will
shut themselves up during the winter, and never stir out
but to enjoy the pleasures of the chase. There is also

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 377

connected with these sets of houses, a place which they
call the fort, which consists of a few stockades irregularly
placed in the ground, and within which they retreat when
they are closely attacked : this, to be sure, is a mere apo-
logy for a fort, as a common field-piece would rattle the
whole, at one fire, about their ears.

On our first entering the village we stumbled upon a
party of Indians who were amusing themselves with some
athletic exercise : we rode up to them, and they very
cordially shook hands with us (a sure mark of friendship).
"We asked them if they had got any mockasons, or other
articles which we might purchase of them, but they re-
plied in the negative. Leaving these, we proceeded on to
the heart of the town, where the houses were more frequent
as well as close together ; and here we stopped at the hut
of an Indian, and alighted from our horses, in expectation
of being able to get some of the articles we wanted, which
we intended to have carried home as presents to our friends.
But we were as unsuccessful here as in the other place ;
and whilst some of our companions were busy in nego-
tiating some business with one of the Indians, the rest
wandered out into the garden, and filled their pockets
with fruit. The Indians observed them, but only smiled,
and made signs as much as to say we were welcome. By
this time we had got half the village about us, and some
of them began to be very inquisitive to know what we
had got in our packs. On handling one of those which
contained dollars, they smiled and uttered some exclama-
tion, as much as to say that they knew what was there.

They then began to examine our firearms, (which were
all loaded,) and to admire the beauty of the workmanship.
We sufiered them to do as they pleased, ^s we well knew

378 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

that resistance on our part would avail nothing against so
many. We trusted ourselves entirely to them, well know-
ing that as we were at peace with them, they would not
molest us, — at least not openly ; and at one time I ob-
served that every firearm we had was in their hands, so
that, had they been so disposed, they might have done
with us what they chose. They then examined our
clothes, and particularly our hats, which they wanted us
to exchange for theirs, crying out, " Swop ! " " Swop ! " a
word which they had borrowed from the Kentuckians ;
however, as the disposition was not mutual, we declined
their offer.

Leaving these, we made the best of our way out of the
town ; and in going along it so happened that I was the
hindmost. We had scarcely got to the edge of the village
when two Indians accosted me, and stopped to shake me
by the hand, as I had observed they did the preceding
Ones. I returned the compliment, and (they continuing
to remain where they were) I did not immediately pro-
ceed ; however, I found soon after that I had fallen into
the company of a couple of troublesome visitors. They
handled my packs with a great deal of inquisitiveness,
and then approaching my horse's head, took out my
pistols, and examined them also. I wanted to have pro-
ceeded on, but they did not seem inclined to let me ; and
one of them, holding out his hand to my head, seemed
to ask for my hat. I gave it him ; he admired it, and
wanted to "swop/' as he called it. I shook my head^
and he was going to return it ; but the other (snatching it
from his hands) ran off with it as fast as his legs could
carry him. I immediately jumped from my horse and
followed him ; but not being able to come up with him, I

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 379

threatened to hurl my tomahawk at him if he did not
give it up. The other Indian, seeing this, halloed to him,
and he dropped the hat and ran oflP. I did not think
proper to pursue him, though I was very angry at the
trouble he had given me ; and on mj return to the other
Indian he only laughed at rae, and seemed to think that the
other had done no more than what he had a right to do.
During this transaction the rest of our party were far ad-
vanced out of sight ; so that I was left alone to contest
the point ; and what rendered my situation more dis-
tressing was, that during the chase both my horses (find-
ing themselves without a master) took the liberty of run-
ning away also. This was truly an unfortunate circum-
stance, as I knew not which path either they or our party
had taken. However, following one where there appeared
to be the most tracks, I ran with all speed, and soon found
myself on the banks of a little creek. Here I set up a
loud hallo, which possibly might reach the ears of my
companions : fortunately it did, for I heard it immediately
returned "in well-known accents." Wading through the
creek, which was up to my middle, I hastened to the place
from whence the sound proceeded ; and then I intended
to have got their assistance in helping me to find my
horses ; but I was agreeably surprised, on approaching
them, to find that my horses had taken the same path
with them, and were now quietly walking in the cavalcade.
They congratulated me on my good fortune, and assured
me that they did not miss me from their party, till they
saw my horses come galloping after them without a rider ;
that they then stopped, expecting rne soon to follow.

Soon after this, our guide, having put us on the right
path, aud given us a few directions how to find our way,

380 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

took his leave of us. He told us that there was a creek
about twenty miles from the town, which we might be
able to reach that night, and that we should cross it ;
because if any Indians pursued us in order to steal our
horses, they would hardly proceed beyond this creek.
We intended to have followed his advice ; but on our
arrival at the creek, the sun had been set some time, and
as we saw no convenient place to cross it, (it not being
fordable,) we were necessitated to tarry on this side all
night. However, in order to deceive the Indians, we
took a circuitous and mazy route through the woods for
near an hour, and at last encamped not a quarter of a
mile from the banks of the creek. We kindled no fire
this night for fear of discovery ; but each of us, taking
his repast, lay himself down wherever he chose, and in
^he morning, —

Friday, July 21s^, — we prepared for crossing the creek.
On exploring the banks a little, we found a place where
a tree had been cut down, and lay across the stream ;
this we observed had been used as a bridge for foot pas-
sengers, but the banks did not allow the approach of
horses, so that we were obliged to seek out another place
for them. This accomplished, we carried our luggage, one
by one, over this narrow bridge, and then returning to
drive our horses over, happily overcame this difficulty.
It was now forty miles to the Tenessee river ; the country
towards which was of a hilly, gravelly nature, so that
our progress now was not so quick as it had been. There
was another thing also which tended to impede it. There
is in this country a plant which grows wild in the woods,
and which goes by the name of the poison vine. I have
thought since that this plant is the rhus vernix of

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 381

Linnseus, as it possesses all the properties which Kalm
mentions of that plant ; though he sajs that it is a tree
growing to the height of twenty feet, with a strong
woody stalk ; whereas, I have never seen any but what
grew somewhat like the vine, whence its name. How-
ever, as their properties are the same, I shall briefly relate
what the Professor says upon this subject : —

" An incision (says he) being made into the tree, a
whitish yellow juice, which has a nauseous smell, comes
out between the bark and the wood. This tree is not
known for its good qualities, but greatly so for the effect
of its poison ; which, though it is noxious to some people,
yet does not in the least affect others ; and, therefore, one
person can handle the tree as he pleases, cut it, peel off
its bark, rub it (or the wood) upon his hands, smell at it,
spread the juice upon his skin, and make more experi-
ments without inconvenience to himself. Another person,
on the contrary, dares not meddle with the tree whilst
its wood is fresh ; nor can he venture to touch a hand
which has handled it, nor even to expose himself to the
smoke of a fire which is made with this wood, without
soon feeling its bad effects ; for the face, the hands, and
frequently the whole body, swell excessively, and are
affected with a very acute pain. Sometimes bladders or
blisters arise in great plenty, and make the sick person
look as if he were infected by a leprosy. In some per-
sons, the external thin skin, or cuticle, peels off in a few
days, as is the case when a person has scalded or burnt
any part of his body. Nay, the nature of some persons
will not even allow them to approach the place whei^e
the tree grows, or to expose themselves to the wind when
it carries the effluvia or exhalations of this tree with it,

382 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

without letting them feel the inconveniences of the swell-
ing which I have just now described. Their eyes are shut
up for one or two or more days together by the swelling.
I knew two brothers, one of whom could, without danger,
handle this tree in what manner he pleased, whereas the
other could not come near it without swelling. A person
does not know that he has touched this poisonous plant,
or that he has been near it, before his face and hands
show it by their swelling. I have known old people, who
were more afraid of this tree than of a viper ; and I was
acquainted with a person, who merely by the noxious
exhalations of it was swelled to such a degree that he was
as stiff as a log of wood, and could only be turned about
in sheets : though I have never heard that this tree has
been mortal."

Thus far Professor Kalm : and I believe that I can add
my testimony among the rest to the truth of what he
has asserted ; for I not only experienced its ill effects
myself, but have seen others escape unhurt, though ex-
posed to the same danger. Mr. Ellicot, the American
Commissioner at the Natchez, informed me that one day
on the Ohio he sent the men ashore to cut down some
wood for firing ; they accordingly brought some aboard.
This was in the evening. In the morning, he, together
with several others, found their eyes almost swollen out of
their heads, at the same time other parts of their body
underwent a considerable tumefaction ; and though the
rest of the company were exposed to the same vapour, or
effluvia, from the wood, they experienced no ill effects
whatever. On examination, they found that they had
ignorantly cut down some of this tree for the purposes of
firewood. This gentleman is so remarkably susceptible

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 383

of the poisonous effects of this plant, that when he was
at Natchez he seldom walked out, as he was always
affected by a near approach to it ; it constantly causing
his legs and feet to swell considerably, and also affecting
him in other parts of the body. If he did walk out, it
was always with the precaution of taking a bottle of some
liquid which the physician of the place had prescribed,
and with which he anointed the parts affected. This
liquid I believe was the common Goulard of the shops.
With respect to ourselves, as we were continually exposed
to its effects in going through the woods, (and particu-
larly when we alighted, and had to walk about afoot,) it
was hardly to be supposed that we should escape if we
were susceptible of its poisonous qualities. As to myself,
it had such an effect upon my legs as to cause them to
swell to a very considerable size, and to break out in open
ulcers; not only rendering the parts very painful, but
incapacitating me from wearing boots, which I had latterly
put on as a preventative against its ill effects. I was even
obliged to cut open my overhauls, and bind up my legs
with a handkerchief ; and as my feet were also so swelled
that I could not get on my shoes, I was forced to make
a pair of mockasons out of the upper leather of my boots.
In this situation was I obliged very often to dismount from
my horse, and walk over very steep hills, or rather moun-
tains, covered with a species of small jagged stone, which
penetrated my feet to the very quick, and rendered my
journey almost insupportable. When I was in the Indian
town I asked our guide if he knew anything that would
cure it ; and he pointed out some herbs to me which he
recommended me to boil and lay as a poultice on the
part affected. This I did every night, and found ray leg

384 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

very much relieved by it. One or two of my companions
were aflfected in nearly the same manner, which ob-
structed our expedition over this hilly country to which
we are now arrived. As to the rest, they experienced
nothing of the hind ; and though they handled the plant,
and were equally exposed to it with ourselves, they never
felt any ill eflfects whatever.

Owing to this circumstance, then, the rapidity of our
progress over this hilly part of the country was not very
great; because, as I before mentioned to you, we were
often obliged to dismount and walk up some of these
steep eminences ; so that it was

Sunday, July 2^rd, ere we arrived at the Tenessee
river. We had descended from the hilly country into
the bottom (which always borders these large rivers) over
night, but it was near ten o'clock this morning when
we first arrived on its banks. The shores were every-
where covered with thick cane brakes ; but as we struck
upon the general crossing-place of the Indians, there was
a large clearance made immediately on the bank of the
river, where we unpacked our horses, and began to con-
sult upon the best mode of crossing it. This river, I
have already observed to you, rises in the lower parts of
Virginia, and after flowing through a fine fertile country for
near a thousand miles, empties itself into the Ohio, about
fifty-seven miles above its junction with the Mississippi.
At the place where we had to cross it, it was above a
quarter of a mile wide, and flowed with so rapid a stream,
that it was with difficulty that a person (breast high)
could stand against it ; at the same time it appeared to
glide along in silent dignity, with its surface smooth and
unruffled, and its body dark and clear, at once proclaim-
ing the depth and importance of the current.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 385

Our first consideration was, bow we were to overcome
this tremendous obstacle. We had no canoe nor other
vessel with us, neither was there time for making one, as
it would have taken up two or three days, and perhaps
we could not have accomplished it at last. We observed
in several places about here the similar attempts of other
persons for this purpose, but they had all been left un-
finished. Our only resource was, to make a raft for our
baggage, and to drive our horses over as we had been used
to do before. Even this was a laborious undertaking, as
we had to cut down all the wood for this purpose, and
there were only two tomahawks in the whole party, by
which we were to fell the trees and cut their trunks up
into proper lengths for tlie rafts. However, as there was
no other means left of arriving at the opposite shore, we
determined upon this as the least evil of the two. Having
come to this resolution, we suffered our horses to wander
among the cane brakes in search of pasture, and then
kindled a fire and dressed some provisions for our break-
fast. This ended, we all set to, in order to accomplish
our design, and immediately many noble trees fell a
victim to our expedition. We cut their trunks up into
pieces of about six or eight feet long, and binding several
of them together with the atalks of the vine, (of which
there is a vast quantity all over the woods,) formed the
foundation of three separate rafts, for we found that
neither one nor two would be able to contain all our
baggage. This accomplished, we placed on the top a
layer of bark, or a quantity of dry sticks, on which we
fixed our packs in order that they might not get wet,
and tying ropes to each of these rafts, we had to swim
with them across this rapid current like so many horses

2 c

386 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

drawing a cart ! A tremendous undertaking ! and whicli
I review now with a degree of horror and affright ! Be-
sides, as the forming of our rafts and the placing of our
packs thereon was wholly accomplished in the river,
(where we were obliged to work almost naked from morn-
ing till near sunset witliout relaxation,) it so enervated
us, that we were in but improper condition to swim across
with them that evening. However, Mr. Robb and three
of his messmates (who had made two rafts between them)
determined upon taking theirs over that evening. As
to mj own part, as our raft was the largest of the three,
I preferred delaying till the morning ; and it was fortunate
I did.

Just at this place there is a sandbar on each side of
the river, which extends a considerable way into the
stream. This is a great advantage and help to persons
crossing it, because, if they can swim to the opposite sand-
bar, and touch the ground with their feet, it not only
saves so much trouble, but prevents their being carried
any farther down by the force of the current. But then,
if they are carried heyond, and miss this sandbar, the
banks on each side are nearly perpendicular, so that
three feet from the shore it is beyond a person's depth ;
and, to make it still worse, (in case of such an unfortunate
event,) the river makes a short turn just below ; so that a
person in the middle of the stream would in such a case
find it difficult (if not impossible) to reach either shore.
We were apprised of this circumstance, and endeavoured
to take all the advantages, and at the same time avoid
all the dangers, of it. Mr. Robb and his three assistants
harnessed themselves on to one of these rafts, and dragging
it as far up the stream as they conveniently could, in order

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 387

that they might have all the advantages of the drifting
current, started about sundown to cross this rapid torrent.
We beheld them with a deal of anxious suspense from the
shore, and narrowly watched every movement. We saw
them presently assume the deep, and trust themselves to
their exertions and labour for a happy issue to their un-
dertaking. The stream now began to hurry them along,
and ere they had approached the middle, they passed the
point where we stood to behold them. They were then
in the most rapid part of the current, and were obliged
to redouble their strokes to gain the opposite shore. We
soon lost sight of thera, being hid behind the prominent
raft. But we had soon the satisfaction of seeing their
bodies emerge from the water, plainly indicating to us
that their feet had gained the opposite bar; and not long
after we could just observe them in the act of unloading
il[iQ\v propitious raft.

We were happy to see so fortunate a termination to our
first essay, and we flattered ourselves that our next would
not be less so. Mr. Robb having another raft to take over,
he hastened back with two of his associates as soon as he
could, leaving the other there to take care of the things.
As soon therefore as they had landed all their goods,
they plunged into the water, and as they were without
any incumbrance in returning, they soon arrived on our
side of the river, bringing with them the ropes they had
used to tow the raft with. As it was now pretty late
and almost dark, we determined not to take any more
over this night, but wait for a new day ere we at-
tempted our second essay : accordingly, having fastened
our rafts in a secure place where the drifting logs could
not hurt them, we spread our blankets, and after refresh-

2 c 2

388 JOURNAL OF A TOUU.

ing ourselves with some provisions which we had cooked
by a large fire we had kindled in the hollow of a tree, we
laid us down to rest completely overcome with fatigue ;
and in the morning, —

Monday, July 2Ath, — renewed our labour. As we had
toiled very hard yesterday, and had been in the water
for so many hours together, we found ourselves very much
fatigued and enervated this morning; but as no time was
to be lost, we hastened to get everything ready for our
departure. As we had a difficult enterprise before us,
and as we were so reduced in strength, we thought proper
to take our breakfast first, and then to prepare for start-
ing. This over, we went to the waterside, and there,
stripping ourselves, made the ropes fast to the raft, and
endeavoured to pull it up against the stream as high as
we could. We found this a difficult undertaking, as the
current was so rapid, and we set our wits to work to find
out some means of alleviating it ; and at last we con-
trived to tie the rope to a couple of our horses' tails, and
make them haul it up. We did so : but the animals had
been so little used to this employment, that they did not
take it very kindly, but soon began to be restive, and to
endanger our little raft. However, trying two others, we
succeeded better, and hauled our raft near half a mile up
the stream. This done, we made her fast, and returned to
drive our horses across the river ere we started ourselves.
In this we did not find much difficulty after they once
took the stream ; for they all followed the foremost, who,
finding no prospect of return, (for he attempted it several
times,) made the best of his way to the opposite shore.
We then went back to seek our raft ; Mr. Robb at the
same time starting with his. We endeavoured to follow

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 389

his steps, and accordingly two of my companions fastened
the ropes round their bodies and swam in front, towing
the raft after them. I was behind, serving the office of a
rudder, as well as forcing the raft forwards by the action
of swimming. We stemmed the tide as far as possible ;
and when we could no longer oppose the stream, we com-
mitted ourselves to the deep, and endeavoured by mere
dint of labour to gain the opposite shore. As this was
our first essay, we were not aware of the extreme diffi-
culty of crossing so rapid a current ; as to Mr. Robb, he
appeared to go on and to gain ground with all the ease
imaginable : whether it was that they were better swim-
mers than we, or had been more used to the practice of
rafting, I know not ; but certain it was, that ere we had
reached the middle of the stream we began to be so
extremely faint and tired, that we were obliged to desist
for awhile from proceeding any farther ; and during this
respite the stream was carrying us down at an astonishing
rate. Seeing then that no time was to be lost, we set to
again, and exerted ourselves to the utmost in order to
gain the middle of the stream, to which we had not yet
arrived. We did manage to get there, and by this time
had the mortification of seeing that Robb had nearly
landed his raft ; but we were so enervated by having been
in the water all yesterday, and so little used to this mode
of travelling, that we were obliged to rest again, being
absolutely incapable of going any farther. However, as
by a second delay we stood a chance of being carried
beyond the opposite sandbar, I used all the arguments I
could to encourage them to proceed. They attended to
what I said, but tried without efi"ect; for after advancing
a few strokes, they declared they were so overcome as to

390 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

be unable^' to proceed. We were now carried below the
sandbar, and in a truly unfortunate situation we were ;
for if we did not make the opposite shore before we
arrived at the point below, we stood a chance of being
drifted by the current the whole length of the river.
Under these circumstances we made another essay, but
all without effect ; for the stream was now become so
strong, that we were soon hurried down below the point of
land, and all hope of attaining either shore entirely cut off.
Imagine now to yourself a river upwards of twelve hun-
dred miles long, with scarcely a single habitation on its
banks the whole way, or these so widely scattered as to
be incapable of rendering any assistance to one floating
on the wide bosom of its waters ; its banks also for the
most part-f overflowed, so that if our raft should strike
against the shore, we should be unable ever to reach the
land: — imagine us, I say, with this prospect before us,
without any hope of ever reaching our companions,
our heads just above water, our hands clinging to the raft
and supporting our weary bodies, our provisions before
our eyes, but ourselves unable to touch them, as the least
disturbance given to our raft would instantly overwhelm
it ; so that we were in danger of perishing by want
in the midst of plenty ; the trees and banks flying be-
yond us, and ourselves carried along with an astonishing

* You must observe that myself and one of my companions had
our legs very much swollen and ulcerated from the poison of the
plant which I have already described to you : this was (no doubt)
rendered worse by our long continuance in the water yesterday :
so that altogether it was no wonder we did not succeed in our
attempt.

f The land was overflowed on each side for near twenty miles,
except in those places where a 6?z<^ appeared.

JOURIfAL OF A TOUR. 391

rapidity, and hastening to a river abounding with alli-
gators and other ravenous animals, unable to defend
ourselves : — imagine this, and a thousand other things still
more horrid, which fancy at the moment created, and you
will have a tolerable idea of our situation at this time.
What was to be done ? Nothing. We were resigned to
our fate, be it good or bad ; and even in this forlorn
situation could not help being merry, and passing our
jokes upon each other. So true is it, that in the midst
of health, death did not strike us with the same terror as
when accompanied with a lingering illness.

We were now nearly wafted out of the sight of our
companions, who stood on the shore commiserating our
situation, but unable to render us any assistance. One
of those who were with us jocosely halloed out to them,
that we were under sailing orders, and could not stop
to speak to them, as a breeze had just sprung up : I told
him I hoped the gale would be prosperous; and it brought
to my mind two lines in Virgil : —

" Quo Deus, et quo dura vocat fortuna, sequamur."
" Quicquid erit, superanda omnis fortuna ferendo est."

By this time we had been carried four or five miles down
the stream, when one of my companions, casting his eyes
around, observed something near a point of land below,
which he took for some men on the water. As we could
not imagine what should bring any human being into
this quarter of the country, except Indians, whom we did
not expect to see now, as they were in a state of war, and
consequently kept themselves very secret, we thought he
must be deceived. However, a few minutes convinced us
to the contrary, and clearly discovered two men of a
dark countenance in a canoe close to the shore, work-

392 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

ing against the stream. This, you will say, was a joyful
sight to us ; but we did not regard it as such at first : for
as it is natural to mankind to suggest the worst, parti-
cularly in any unpleasant situation, so we immediately
fancied that these people were Creek Indians, a nation
almost continually at war with the Americans, who, if they
discovered us, would actually murder us. Under this idea,
we were in doubt whether we should hail them or not, for
we were now got pretty near to them, and they could not
distinguish our heads from the raft, which appeared to a
person situated near the shore, like a bundle of logs, or the
top of a tree, floating down. I used all the arguments
I could to induce my fellow-travellers to hail them, and
told them, that thereby they might exchange what ap-
peared to me a prospect of certain death, for a possibility,
at least, of escape ; and that if they let this chance pass
by, they not only would not deserve, but most probably
would not meet with, another to save them from the
danger that awaited them ; but fear worked upon them
so far, that they said they Tcnew they were Creeks, and
were determined to continue on as they were going.
However, as I looked upon it almost as an interposition
of Providence for our safety, I halloed to them as long
and as loud as I could, when they came opposite to us.
They looked about for a long while, and could not imagine
from whence the sound proceeded; but on my repeating
it, and waving my hand, I observed them to push from
the shore and make towards us. Even this did not ap-
pease my companions: for when the Indians took up
their paddles to row towards us, they said they had
taken up their guns, and were going to fire upon us; and
one of them said he actually saw him pull the trigger!!!

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 393

SO astonishingly does imagination work upon a perturbed
mind. They were not long in approaching us, and we
soon found that they were no enemies ; for, smiling at our
situation, they came alongside and took us into the canoe.
We then took our baggage and the cord from the raft,
and assisted the Indians in paddling up to the place
from whence we set out, letting our unfortunate raft
drift down the current — the sport of the wind and the
waves.

Thinking ourselves now completely safe from our
perilous situation, we began to congratulate each other
upon our happy escape; and as we looked upon these In-
dians, who were Cherokees, as our deliverers, we made
them partake of our bounty, at least of such things as
we had to spare, and which to them were of more value
than gold or silver : such as salt, gunpowder, biscuit, beef,
and even money. This they not only deserved, but
seemed to expect from us. We were not long ere we
arrived at the spot where our companions were anxiously
commiserating our condition, ignorant of our happy
escape. They were not a little pleased, then, when they
saw us return. They had not got any of the things upon
the bank, but merely landed them upon the beach: for
you are to understand that, excepting time of high water,
the banks of all the rivers are elevated at a considerable
distance above the surface of the water. The place
where we landed was about twenty feet high, and nearly
perpendicular. Up these banks, then, we had to haul
our baggage ; that is, we had to carry every single article,
one by one, up a bank, which was so slippery, that we
could scarcely support o urselve. However, as all labour
seemed now light to us, we set about it with a good will.

394 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

and before the middle of the day got every thing on the
upper bank, and ready for starting. Our Indians assisted
us in this expedition ; and after it was accomplished we
sat down and took some refreshment together. During
this time our two deliverers entered into conversation ;
that is, they endeavoured to make themselves understood,
for they could not talk English ; but from their manner
of expressing themselves, and their action, we learnt that
they had been on this river some time, and had gone at
intervals to hunt on the shore ; that they happened to be
at the spot where the party who had preceded us struck
the river, and that they ferried them across; that they
took us for Creek Indians at first, and were unwilling to
come to us, thinking we had adopted that mode of draw-
ing them to us, and then shooting them; and finally,
that it was but three sleeps to Nashville. In this, how-
ever, they were either mistaken, or they did not under-
stand our question ; and it will be seen that it led us into
great difficulties.

Having refreshed ourselves, we began to think of col-
lecting our horses together, which we had not seen since
yesterday. Accordingly we took our routes through the
woods, and in the course of an hour we assembled them
all together, — none of them having strayed more than a
quarter of a mile from the ^pot ; but it being a close,
thick wood, and full of cane-brakes, we could not readily
find them. We soon packed them, and taking leave of
our deliverers, pursued our course through the woods.
We endeavoured to take the high lands that night, but
were unsuccessful ; we were therefore obliged to encamp
in this bottom, which, though it afforded excellent pasture
for our horses, yet poured forth such quantities of mos-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 395

quitos, that we had scarcely any sleep ; therefore, start-
ing early in the morning, —

Tuesday, July 25th, — we pursued our course to the
high lands. We were happy in having understood that it
was no more than three sleeps to Nashville, as not only
would there be a speedy termination to our laborious
journey, but also, as we had but one more day's provi-
sion, we hoped to reach some of the frontier settlements
to-morrow evening. As we were proceeding this morn-
ing up the hilly country, which now began to wear a
formidable appearance, (being that range of mountains
which separate the Tenessee and Cumberland river,) we
suddenly met a party of Indians on a narrow path. As
we were ignorant of what nation they might be, we began
to be rather alarmed ; but on a nearer approach we
observed that the foremost of the party was a white man,
and by his addressing us in English we discovered them
to be friends. We immediately asked him how far it
was to the settlements, and he told us " two hundred
miles ! ! " At this we were quite astonished, and really
alarmed, as all our provision was exhausted, and we
expected to have seen some settlement to-morrow. We
desired him to recollect if he were right, and repeated
what the Indians at the river had told us. He said he
had just come over the ground, therefore must know; and
that the Indians had misunderstood our question, it being
three sleeps to Duck river, which we should reach to-
morrow or next day, and not to Cumberland river, on
which the town of Nashville stands. He added also,
that the Creek Indians infested the path we were going ;
and that we should be careful how we proceeded, and
keep a good look out all the way till we were got through

396 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

their country. We thanked him for his advice, and, as
we thought we had best hurry on, took our leave and
departed.

About eleven o'clock, our usual time of halting, we
stopped in order to refresh our horses ; but, alas ! as to
ourselves, we could scarcely muster up a meal amongst us
all : we found now that our burnt corn would afford us
an excellent substitute in this unfortunate dilemma ;
accordingly, (making a last meal of what little pro-
visions we had,) we had recourse to this last expedient for
our support. It was true there was plenty of game in
the woods ; but we had only one gun in company, and
the stoch of that happened unfortunately to be burnt
one night, so that only the barrel remained. We tried
several times to kill some deer with our pistols, but with-
out success. In this predicament we hurried on as fast as
we could, and endeavoured to reach the nearest settle-
ment as soon as possible.

In proceeding on, we now always kept one of our party
about a quarter of a mile ahead of the rest, in order to keep
a look out, as the white man had desired us ; and this office
we undertook by turns. At night when we came to
encamp, we always chose a spot where we should not
leave the least traces of our footsteps, and (deviating
from the path) every one singly formed a circuit of near
a mile, and arrived at a certain spot agreed upon be-
fore we separated, where we formed our encampment ;
and there, without lighting any fire," or speaking above
our breath, we would lie down completely overcome with
fatigue, and without having any other refreshment but
a spoonful of this burnt corn mixed up with a little
water. With all these precautions, however, to avoid

JOURNAL OF A TOUR 397

discovery, we could not escape the penetrating eye of the
Indians. The circumstance which leads to my mentioning
this is not only curious in itself, but also will serve as
another instance of the remarkable capability which those
people have of discovering the tracks of any human
being. Just before we reached the Chickasaw town, two
Indians had started off, bound to the same place that we
were. We had never seen anything of them till this
night, when, after we were all retired to rest, we dis-
covered some strange faces walking about our encamp-
ment. We at first thought it might be some of our com-
panions going their rounds, (for we all slept at a distance
from each other,) but on their not answering the watch-
word we gave the alarm, and we all instantly assembled
together. We were not under any apprehensions that it
was an open enemy ; for if it were, they would have fired
upon us ere they had discovered themselves. Finding
that they did not attempt to get off, but rather advanced
towards us, we brought them in the midst, and as one of
them spoke a little broken English, he was the orator.
He told us whence he came, and whither he was going,
and that as his nation was at war with the Creeks, they
had secreted themselves as much as possible during their
journey, which was the reason we had not met with them
before. On asking him how he came to find us out, he
said that he discovered the tracks of many horses in the
path, and that about sundown he lost sight of them : not
knowing whose tracks they might be, he said they were
determined to ascertain it ; and, accordingly, retracing
their steps, found out the spot where one of the horses had
deviated from the path and struck out into the woods :
(though we had taken all precaution to prevent such a

398 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

discovery :) this track they had followed till it led them
to the present spot, where they discovered several horses
roaming about, and on a nearer approach, the faces of
several persons ; but that not being able to ascertain
whether we were Indians or white people, (it being dark,)
they had come still closer ; and on finding us to be the
latter, had taken the liberty of coming in the midst of
us and making themselves known. We could not but
admire the simplicity of his story, and their wonderful
sagacity, that after all the pains we had taken they should
be still able to find us out. We made them welcome
among us, though unable to offer them anything for their
comfort, our provisions being all gone. After spending a
little time in other conversation, they spread their blankets
at a little distance from us, and then we all retired to
rest together. We would have employed these men to
hunt for us, to endeavour to procure us some venison, but
they had no guns with them, being going on an express^
and furnished only with their blankets, and a few strings
of junh, which is a kind of dried venison cut into slices,
and put on a string, which they hang round their necks.
On this, and this only, will they travel for hundreds and
hundreds of miles through the woods, and partaking of no
other liquor but the clear streams they meet with on their
way. In the morning, —

Wednesday, July 26th, — we resumed our journey.
The Indians were up and ready to start before us ; they
took their leave of us, as they intended to go through the
heart of the wood; and we soon after directed our steps
toward the path we had left last night, and continued our
route, placing one of our party ahead of the rest. About
eleven o'clock we stopped as usual to refresh our horses.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 1^'* ' ~ 399

and for ourselves to partake of a spoonful of dried corn ;
a sorry pittance, but such as we could not remedy ! We
therefore determined to make ourselves as happy and as
comfortable as we could. We knew that this would sup-
port life a long while ; and after it was gone we must
draw lots for one of our horses. This we had agreed upon,
if Providence should not interpose before that time : it
appeared hard to be starving in the midst of plenty, with
the deer and turkeys scattered every where before our
eyes, yet unable to get at them, though we used all our
endeavours every time we halted, but without effect. It
was now since Monday night that we had tasted nothing
but this scanty allowance of ground corn. The succeed-
ing day we began to feel the ill effects of hunger ; but
the next day this was alleviated, and many of our com-
panions began to feel the approach of fever. I don't
know that ours could be called any great time of absti-
nence : but then it must be understood that all persons
travelling in the woods are endowed with a most astonish-
ing appetite ; and as all things ought to be taken rela-
tively, or (at any rate) to be judged of by their effects, I
think you may allow this time to be double in its conse-
quence to what it would be under any other circum-
stances.

With heavy hearts, and sad, we packed our horses and
resumed our journey. We were quite out of spirits at the
dark picture which was before us ; and though we endea-
voured to cheer each other as well as we could, yet the
demands of nature and our pressing wants were superior
to every other consideration. As we were proceeding
along in this melancholy mood, about four or five o'clock,
we were startled all on a sudden by the bark of a dog,

400 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

■whose voice we could distinctly hear before us, echoing
through the woods. On advancing, we found that our
foremost man had halted ; and on our coming up to him,
found that he had stumbled upon a party of Indians. We
were in doubt what to do, whether to advance towards
them, or avoid them by taking a circuitous route. The
latter would not do, as the dog had already discovered
us ; we therefore thought it better to approach as friends,
and trust ourselves to fortune, at the same time keeping
an eye to our own preservation, and their number. We
advanced, and soon saw a party of men and women
sitting round a large fire, Avhich they had kindled in the
midst ; at the same time we saw the smoke ascending
through the trees, and (what was more pleasant and
agreeable than all) we plainly distinguished the smell of
venison roasting at the fire. Elated with joy we hurried
on, regardless of the Indians, who were now risen to meet
us. Thev advanced and shook hands with us, and ac-
costed us with the title of " good brother ;" this was an
agreeable introduction to us, and paved the way for
farther kindness. We soon discovered that they were a
party of Cherokee Indians who had come here to hunt,
in which they had had good success, and the carcasses of
several deer lay on the ground about them. This was
a most agreeable sight to us, and we soon gave them
to understand that we had gone without victuals since
Monday. They appeared to commiserate our situation ;
and spreading some skins for us to sit upon, laid their
venison before us, of which we partook most bountifully.
They had also got with them some honey which they had
taken the other day from a hive they found in a tree.
This honey was tied up in a fresh deer's skin, and was

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 4Ul

carried about with them to eat with their venison. They
immediately untied their bag and set it before us ; and
we used it as a kind of sweet sauce, dipping our venison
into it, and making it a substitute for bread. We all
set to, with most ravenous appetites after so long fasting,
and devoured an astonishing quantity of their provision ;
no meal was ever so grateful as this : the Indians sat in
silence, and seemed to take a pleasure in being able to
gratify us. A limpid stream ran close by, which fur-
nished us with water, and in which the Indians had a
canoe, which was loaded with deer-skins, the fruits of
their industry : they pointed to it, and told us they were
going down to New Orleans with it, to exchange for
guns, powder, blankets, &c. &c. I could not but admire
their simple mode of living, and thought I never saw the
Indian character to so much advantage as in this little
family. They appeared to me perfectly happy in this
their primitive state of man, and to enjoy all the plea-
sures which so simple a state, unsophisticated by the false
refinements of life, seemed to afford. Possibly the grati-
tude which I felt for their kindness might add a colour to
the picture which I formed of their real condition.

Having made a very hearty meal of this homely* fare, we
asked them if we might take some with us for the remainder
of our journey, as there was plenty lying about ; they said
we might take what we wanted, and immediately spread
it all before us. We asked, " How far to Nashville V
They said, *' Three sleeps." Accordingly we took provisions
enough to last us three days ; and having given them some
salt, powder, and a few small pieces of silver in return, we

* It sounds somewhat siugulai- to call venison homely fare ; but
such is the fact.

2 D

402 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

took our leave of them and departed. It was now near
sundown. However, as we wished to get as far from
them this night as possible, we continued on a few miles,
and then encamped ; for these Indians, who had been so
remarkably kind to us just now, would (if they could sur-
prise us in the night) think it no crime to steal our
horses, or anything else they could get at ivithout our
knowledge. Our encampment was formed with the same
precaution as that of the preceding night, and we re-
mained unmolested. In the morning, —

Thursday/, July 27th, — we rejoined the path, and pur-
sued our journey. About ten o'clock we found our way
obstructed by an exceeding steep precipice, and the path
to take a sudden turn to the right. On approaching the
edge of this chasm, we observed in the bottom below, im-
mediately under us, the waters of Duck river, rolling its
dark stream in silent majesty through this deep canal.
We followed the path, which carried us along the edge of
this precipice, and found that it soon brought us by a
gentle declivity to the borders of the river. The stream
appeared so dark from the reflection of its steep banks,
that it seemed to us not to be fordable ; yet as the path
was brought down here, it was the most probable place to
find a ford. Accordingly one of our party agreed to go
first and reconnoitre the stream ; and after several at-
tempts he found a part where the horses could cross by
swimming only a few steps. This done, we formed our
packs in such a manner that they should not get wet, and
then followed our guide through the stream, and got safe
across without any accident. On the opposite shore we found
it difficult to rejoin the path which led to our destined port,
as there were so many crossing and recrossing each other ;

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 403

at last we fixed upon one which appeared to lead the
right course, and accordingly pursued it.

After crossing Duck river we considered ourselves as
out of the reach of the Creek Indians, as they seldom come
on this side : we therefore congratulated ourselves in
having so well escaped discovery in our journey through
that part of the country which they have always infested.
This brought on (when we stopped at night) a relation of
several escapes and adventures which some of our com-
panions had met with in their journey through different
parts of the woods. Our encampment was formed this
night on the bank of a creek, surrounded by fine lofty
trees, and abounding with excellent food for our horses.
Whilst we were discoursing in this manner round a fire
we had kindled for the night, we observed the same two
Indians approaching us who had surprised us so unex-
pectedly a few evenings past. They joined us and shook
hands, and as the evening was far advanced we invited
them to tarry with us all night ; they agreed, and light-
ing their pipe, handed it round to us all, and made us un-
derstand that they were in perfect peace and harmony
with us. They then retired to a little distance, and kin-
dling a fire by themselves, spent the night apart from us.
This was done in order that they might not incommode
or molest us, or take up any of our room round the fire.
Having it now in our power to treat them a little better
than we did the last time we saw them, we offered them
some venison, for which they seemed very thankful.
We then filled their pipe with some of our tobacco :
this won their hearts, and perhaps pievented our horses
from being stolen. When they retired to rest they
came to us and shook us all by the hand, and then went

2 D 2

404 JOURNAL OF A TOUR,

and lay down. We soon after did the same, and in the
morning, —

Friday, July 28th, — resumed our course, the Indians
having started before us. Our course now was over a
very mountainous and hilly country ; and as we were often
obliged to get oif our horses and walk, it did not accord well
with my legs, which were not yet perfectly healed : parti-
cularly as the soil consisted of a light, sharp gravel, which
penetrated through the soles of the rough covering which
I had made for my feet out of the tops of a pair of
boots. Some of these hills were so remarkably steep that
we have been obliged to clamber up them, and their
descent has been so sudden and perpendicular that we
have left our horses to take care of themselves, and come
down how they could ; and turning our faces to the hill,
have descended backwards, like going down a' ladder ;
afraid to venture resolutely forward, lest we should fall
from the top to the bottom.

When we parted with the Indians on the 26th, they
told us it was three sleeps to the settlements. Supposing
them to be fully informed on the subject, we did not doubt
what they said, and therefore laid in no more provisions
than were necessary to take us there ; but, whether we
were blessed with more than common appetites after our
long abstinence, or were deceived with, respect to the
quantity of provisions we purchased of them, certain it
is, that at the end of the second day after we left them,
we found that we had not more than one more left ; ac-
cordingly, the next day, —

Saturday, July 29th, — we thought it best for every one
to hurry on as fast as he could, and endeavour to reach
the settlement ; and that those who arrived there first,

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 405

should send out a person with provisions to meet the
rest. There was another inducement for us to adopt this
measure : some of our horses after coming so long a jour-
ney were almost knocked up, and rendered unable to pro-
ceed. At least, their motion was so slow, that it retarded
those who might otherwise have reached the settlement
long ago. Having, therefore, come to this resolution, we
did not long continue together, but those who had the
best horses soon advanced before the rest. As there
were seven of us in company, we agreed that Mr. Robb
and two others (whose horses were pretty fresh) should
go on first. Mr. Bledsow and myself formed the next
division ; and Reuben and Smith (whose horses were
completely fatigued) brought up the rear.

Each of the other parties had a kettle apiece, in which
they could cook what little provisions they had remain-
ing, or wherein they might form it into a kind of broth
or soup, as a mean of making it go farther ; but as to us,
we had but one small vessel between us, and that was a
quart tin cup. In this we boiled a little coffee when we
stopped in the middle of the day ; and this (added to a
little bacon and some bread) was all our fare, for we
saved the remainder for our morrow's dinner. We did
not perceive our lonely situation at this time, as we had
been used to detach ourselves in parties, and take our
meals separately in the middle of the day ; but as night
drew on, we wished the more to rejoin our company. We
continued our course this evening as long as we could :
our path lay over two ridges of very high hills, which we
crossed after dark. We wished, if possible, to have over-
taken the first party this evening ; but after travelling till
near ten o'clock we were obliged to desist ; and accord-

406 ^ JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

ingly, having retreated into the woods about half a mile
from the path, we lay ourselves down in a dry ditch,
without making any fire, fearful lest we might be dis-
covered by any Indians near the place, I never was so
fatigued as with this day's journey. We had travelled
from sunrise till near three hours after sunset, with very
little food, and over a rough country : so that when we
came to lay down we were so overcome with fatigue as
to be indifferent whether we reposed in safety or not.
Wearied out with the labour and toil of the journey, we
discarded all ideas of danger, anxious alone to refresh our
weary limbs in the soft embraces of care-subduing sleep.
As an instance of this, I shall only mention a circum-
stance which took place this night. After we had retired
to rest some time, and stretched our tired bodies on the
blanket we had spread on the hard ground, anxiously in-
voking the god of sleep, we heard (as we had often done
before) the howling of wolves, bears, and other wild ani-
mals around us ; and several times the noise of their feet
among the dry leaves on the ground, prowling about in
search of prey, and fast approaching near the spot where
we lay ; yet so little anxious were we to defend ourselves
from these lords of the desert, that though our pistols
and tomahawk lay but a few yards from us, we were so
completely overcome with the fatigues of our journey, as
to be unable to rise from our beds, and endeavour to pre-
pare ourselves for the attack. In a few moments after
sleep would overtake us, and we remained insensible of
our dangerous situation till the morning. This fact is
strongly impressed on my memory ; and I read * it now
(1809) with sentiments of horror.

* This is a note added many years after the account was drawn
up. — Ed.

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 407

Sunday, July SO fh, — About daylight we awoke, and
kindling a fire, boiled a little coffee, which very much
relieved us, and enabled us with the greater cheerfulness
to pursue our journey. The third day was now expired
after seeing the Indians who told us it was three sleeps to
the settlements ; we, therefore, were in anxious expecta-
tion every moment of descrying some traces of civilization ;
and pushed forwards our horses with great eagerness
under this impression. But, alas ! we had the mortifica-
tion of seeing the sun attain his meridian station (point-
ing out to us it was time to halt) without having discovered
the least mark whereby we were enabled to judge how
far we might be distant from any habitation. We stop-
ped, and kindling a fire for the second time, consumed
our last meal ! It consisted of a little coffee, and a small
piece of bread and bacon : a poor allowance ; but such
another one would have been very acceptable in our
situation. This done, we reclined ourselves under the
shade of some lofty tree, and tarrying here about three
hours in order that our horses might have time to feed,
endeavoured to comfort each other under the calamitous
circumstances with which we seemed to be possessed.
After this we pursued our journey ; and about an hour
after sunset came to Harpath river. Having crossed this,
we journeyed on very leisurely through the woods by our-
selves till it was too late to discover the path. Just as
we had determined in our minds to stop, and had come
to a stream of water situated in a valley, (where we could
mix some of the ground Indian corn we had remaining,)
whom should we see just before us but two Indians who
had for some time discovered us, and were now halting in
order that we might overtake them. We advanced, as it

408 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

was in vain to endeavour to escape ; and when we came
up with them, we recognised them to be the same couple
who had surprised us twice before in the same manner.
These men had started afoot from the Chickasaw village
and kept the same pace with us all the way, though we
were on horseback : an astonishing instance of their per-
severance and activity. As we were now become old
companions we did not scruple to travel with them, nor
to invite them to halt at the same spot with us. As it
was now late they did not hesitate to accept our invita-
tion ; accordingly, we unladed our horses and kindled a
fire upon the spot : and here, I could not help commiserat-
ing our second unfortunate situation in which they had
beheld us ; as for themselves, they could not assist us.
Accustomed to live very sparingly when they travel, they
had furnished themselves with scarcely more than was
necessary for the preservation of life, so that it was in
vain that we looked to them for any assistance ; and they,
on their part, were equally disappointed on our side : so
that after sitting by our fire a little while, and endeavour-
ing to pass off a dull hour as cheerfully as possible, we
laid ourselves down without any other meal than a little
water mixed with some ground corn . In the morning, —
Monday, July 3l5^,— we started early, and leaving
our Indians behind, advanced as speedily as possible on
our way. About nine o'clock we observed the path
begin to widen, and assume the marks of being much
frequented ; and soon after we observed evident tracks of
cows and other animals, which plainly indicated to us
that a settlement was near at hand : and about eleven
o'clock, to our great happiness and comfort, we descried
the first civilized habitation since our leaving Natchez. No-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 409

thing could exceed our joj upon this occasion : we jumped,
halloed, and appeared as elated as if we had succeeded
to the greatest estate imaginable. It was not long ere
we approached the door of this auspicious mansion ; but
we met with a repulse, which at first diminished some-
what the pleasure with which we were before transported.

An old woman came to the door, and told us that the
settlement was but just formed ; and that therefore she
could afford us no shelter nor provisions ; but that there
was another well-established plantation about a mile and
a half farther on, where we might meet with refreshment,
&c. This latter sentence revived us again, and we once
more pursued our journey to the desired spot. We soon
approached it, and entering the yard saw the horses of
our companions ranging about in a field near the house.
This was an agreeable sight to us, as it was one trouble
off our minds : and it was not long ere they them-
selves came out to meet us, and congratulate us on our
entry into civilized life. We were not far behind them,
for they had arrived there only this morning, and had
immediately ordered something to be got ready for a
meal.

This plantation belongs to a Mr. Joslin : it is situated
about six or seven miles from Nashville, and is one of
the last settlements on the path towards the wilderness.
It has been formed about seven or eight years, and con-
sisted of several acres of land tolerably well cultivated :
some in corn, some in meadow, and others in grain, &c.
His house was formed of logs, built so as to command
a view of the whole plantation, and consisted of only two
rooms ; one of which served for all the purposes of life,
and the other to hold lumber, &c. Our fare, when it

410 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

came to be served up, was such as we might have expected
in such a rough country as this : it consisted of nothing
more than a large piece of boiled bacon, and a great dish
full of French beans, together with some bread made of
Indian meal. However, as it was quantity, not quality,
which we stood most in need of, we made a very hearty
meal, and devoured with great avidity the homely fare that
was set before us. This being over, we intended to have
performed our promise to our companions who were
left behind, and to have sent out a person with provi-
sions to meet them. But ere we had quite finished our
repast, and whilst we were talking upon the subject, they
both made their appearance withinside the gates of the
plantation ; and they soon rejoined us and partook of our
fare.

Being now all assembled together in perfect safety after
so many difficulties and dangers, we began to communicate
to each other the particulars of each day's transactions
from the time we parted, and to compare our observations
with each other, in order that we might judge of the
course which each had taken, &c. &c. In this manner
the few hours of the afternoon passed away very agreeably,
and it was now sunset ere we thought of starting ; in fact,
there was only Bledsow and myself (who wished to get on)
that had it in view to continue the journey that night ;
as to the rest, they had determined to stop here a few
days to rest themselves and their horses ; but, for my own
part,J conceived that I should find better accommodations
at Nashville, and accordingly started for that place this
evening in company with Bledsow. Our road lay through
a beautifully rich country, formed of a fine black mould,
lying on a bed of limestone. The plantations seemed to

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 411

be frequent as we passed along, but more so towards
Nashville. We even met, within three or four miles of
the town, two coaches, fitted up in all the style of Phila-
delphia or New York, besides other carriages, which plainly
indicated that a spirit of refinement and luxury had made
ts way into this settlement. As we approached the town,
the plantations on either side the road began to assume a
more civilized appearance, yet still not such as one ob-
serves in the neighbourhood of large towns or cities. It
was near seven o'clock when we reached Nashville. The
sight of it gave us great pleasure, as, after so long an ab-
sence from any compact society of this kind, we viewed
the several buildings with a degree of satisfaction and
additional beauty which none can conceive but those who
have undergone the same circumstances. We inquired
for the best tavern in the place; and having ascertained
where it lay, we hastened to it, and giving our horses to
the ostler, entered the house and sat us down, completely
happy in having performed this laborious and troublesome
journey.

We had still, however, anotJier wilderness to go through
ere we arrived at the settled parts of the United States ;
but as this town was a kind of resting place for us, we
did not look forward to any farther difficulties and dan-
gers, but considered our journey as at an end. In fact,
the principal part of it was, for now I had not much more
than a thousand miles farther to go ; but this I had to
travel by myself, as my companion left me at this place,
in order to proceed to Kentucky, whereas my route lay
through Knoxville, on the Holstein river. Next day, —

Tuesday, August 1st, — I went round to view the town,
found it pleasantly situated on the south-west bank of

412 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

Cumberland river, and elevated above its bed about eighty
or one hundred feet. The river here is about 200 yards
wide. The country all round consists of a layer of
fine black mould on a bed of limestone, which in many
places projects through the surface, and shows itself in
dark grey protuberances. In the year 1780, a small
colony, under the direction of James Robertson, crossed
the mountains and settled this place ; but it was not till
within these few years that it could be called a place of
any importance.* This town is situated in the new state
called the state of Tenessee, which has been lately formed
in this country. You are aware that at the close of the
American war, all the states (except Georgia) gave to the
United States all their lands lying to the westward of the
Allegany mountains. These lands were then very little
inhabited, and were intended to be reserved as a fund for
the payment of the debt incurred by the war. North
Carolina ceded her tract in the year 1789; and on the
establishment of peace, so rapid was the emigration to
this country, that the legislature of this territory at their
session in July, 1795, made a law for numbering the in-
habitants, in order to determine whether they were not
entitled to all the privileges of a state, according to an act
of Congress passed the 13th July, 1787, respecting states
to be formed in the ceded territory ; which provides that,
"Whenever any of the said states shall have 60,000 in-
habitants therein, such state shall be admitted by its dele-
gates into the Congress of the United States, on an equal
footing with the original states in all respects whatever."
On taking the census, it appeared that there were in the
* In the year 1791, tliere were 7,000 people on Cumberland

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 413

territory 77,262 inhabitants, of whom 66,549 were free
persons ; wliereupon the governor, in pursuance of the
law, called a convention, who lately met at Knoxville,
formed * a constitution, &c. This constitution breathes
the true spirit of republicanism, and is formed much after
the same manner as some of the others, with all the im-
provements which time and experience have pointed out
in the science of legislation.

You will observe that this state may be divided into
two parts, the eastern and western, which are separated
from each other by a wilderness which is possessed by
the Indians ; for though the inhabitants claim the whole
of the territory bounded by the two parallel lines of the
3oth and 36^th degree of north latitude, and between
the Allegany mountains and the Mississippi river ; yet
they do not possess more than a quarter of that tract in
full right and sovereignty, for the Indian title is not yet
extinct to the major part of it. You will see by the map
what part belongs to each. The Indians dispute every
inch of ground with the Americans, and will not let them
encroach upon their territory. What claim they have to
the land which they do possess, has been obtained by pur-
chase; and so particular are the Indians in abiding to
their treaties and in asserting their own rights, that a
party of them generally watch the surveyors appointed to
run the line between them, in order to see that they
do not go wrong. But oftentimes the line is not run till
several years after the treaty, and both parties abide
by the verbal description and their local knowledge
of the place, which often creates disputes when the line

* All this sounds terrible in England, but it is a matter of course
in A.nierica.

414 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

comes to be actually run, as then it is often . found that
one party or the other has encroached. This was the
case when I travelled through this country, as will be ex-
plained in its proper place : at present I shall go on with
my description of Nashville.

This town contains about sixty or eighty families ; the
houses (which are chiefly of logs and frame) stand scat-
tered over the whole site of the town, so that it appears
larger than it actually is. The inhabitants (like all those
in the new settled towns) are chiefly concerned in some
way of business : a storekeeper is the general denomina-
tion for such persons, and under this head you may
include every one who buys and sells. There are two or
three taverns in this place, but the principal one is kept
by Major Lewis. There we met with good fare, but very
poor accommodations for lodgings ; three or four beds of
the roughest construction in one room, which was open
at all hours of the night for the reception of any rude
rabble that had a mind to put up at the house ; and if
the other beds happened to be occupied, you might be
surprised when you awoke in the morning to find a bed-
fellow by your side whom you had never seen before, and
perhaps might never see again. All complaint is unne-
cessary, for you are immediately silenced by that all-
powerful argument, — the custom of the country^ and an
inability to remedy it ; or perhaps your landlord may tell
you that if you do not like it you are at liberty to depart
as soon as you please. Having long been taught to put up
with inconveniences, I determined for the future to take
things as I found them, and if I could not remedy them,
to be content. Besides, I did not feel the ill eff"ects of
this rough accommodation so much as another person

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 415

might in travelling from a more civilized part of the
world, because every thing which was beyond a piece of
bread and bacon, and the cold hard ground, appeared to
me as a luxury.

I know no other particulars of this place, except that
it is the principal town in this western division of the
state, and that the country about is pretty well settled,
considering the time since its first establishment : what
other particulars you may wish to know of this new
state, you may learn in Morse or Imlay. There are
several other little towns in the neighbourhood ; in fact,
the banks of the Cumberland river, on both sides, are
well cultivated for a considerable distance. Major Nelson,
who boarded with me at Major Lewis's, is forwarding a
settlement, and laying off a town at the head of Harper's
Creek, about twenty-five miles off, where he sells his
half-acre town lots for ten dollars, and his out lots of ten
acres for thirty dollars, on the condition that improve-
ments are to be made, and a house built within two
years. The price of land about the vicinity of this place,
wmmproved, is from one to four and five dollars, accord-
ing to its situation and neighbourhood.

I did intend to have waited at Nashville some time, in
order to rest my horses ; but not being able to find any
person in the neighbourhood who had a good pasture,
and being rather tired of my lodgings, I determined to
proceed. My course now was towards Knoxville, a town
lying on the Holstein river. Between Nashville and that
place, I have already told you, there is a wilderness about
three hundred miles long, which I had to cross. This
wilderness properly commences about sixty-two miles
from Nashville, though the whole of that distance is

416 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

scarcely better than a wilderness after you proceed about
half-a-dozen miles from the town ; for the houses are so
far apart from each other, that you seldom see more than
two or three in a day. I was determined also in starting
so soon, by the idea that I should meet with a plan-
tation on the road, where I should find a pasture, and
where I should accordingly stop and refresh my horses ;
for there is no part of these new settlements but you
may take this liberty, if you pay them well for it ; the
idea of their being hospitable and doing a kindness to
strangers for nothing, is false. This hospitality is only
shown to neighbours, &c., where they expect it will be
repaid by the same return, and arises from a want of
inns on the road, where travellers may call and do as
they please. Having come to this resolution, I left
Nashville on

Wednesday, August 2nd, about four o'clock in the
afternoon, having stayed there about two days. I had now
a prospect of travelling upwards of a thousand miles by
myself, one-third of which was through a complete wil-
derness among the Indians, and one-half of the remaining
part not much better. However, as there was no one
going the same way, I resolved to start by myself and
take the chance of the road, whether any one should
overtake me or not. Bledsow had left me the day before,
on his way to Kentucky. Accordingly I mounted my
riding-horse, and leading the other (which carried my
baggage) by a rope, I directed my steps towards the
water-side, and being put across by the ferryman to the
opposite shore, (for which I gave him one-sixteenth of a
dollar,) I kept the main path through the woods, as I was di-
rected, and made the best of my way to a Mr. Blackamoor's,

JOUENAL OF A TOUR. 417

distant about nine miles, where I intended to sleep that
night. The gloomy and majestic scenery of the sur-
rounding objects, you would be apt to imagine, would
excite a degree of melancholy in a person not used to such
scenes; but this was not the case with me. By a fre-
quent familiarity with such objects I had become callous
to their ill effects, and indulged only those ideas which
afforded the highest pleasure, and the most grateful con-
templation. Surrounded on each side with a deep wall
of woods, I enjoyed the serenity of the evening in silent
meditation : everything which I saw and heard taught me
a lesson which required not the powers of oratory to em-
bellish it. So soon as the sun had taken his station below
the horizon, the moon began to spread her silver light,
and to shine in silent majesty through the openings of
the trees : and it was by her kind assistance that I reached
my destined port ; for, by my ignorance of the way, I
had mistaken the path, and (wandering about the woods
without a guide) did not reach my place of destination
till between eight and nine o'clock. I approached the
house, and found that I could be accommodated with
lodging there ; accordingly I unpacked my horses, and
taking the baggage within doors, I led them to the field,
and gave them some corn. I then began to inquire for
something for my own supper ; but was informed that I
could have nothing but some Indian bread and butter,
and some milk, which is a standing dish in all these
new countries. Accordingly I sat down to this rough
fare, and having made a hearty meal, went and sat in tlie
open air to enjoy the serenity of the evening ; and when
the time came for retiring to rest, I took my blankets out
and spread them on the hard ground, though there was

2 E

418 JOUR>^AL OF A TOUR.

a very good bed prepared for me within doors. But habit
has such an influence over the human mind, that this mode
of sleeping (which at one time appeared very rough and
unpleasant) was now the preferable of the two ; and I
adopted it as the most agreeable. In the morning, —

Thursday, August 3rd, — when I came to discharge my
reckoning, I found they had the impudence to charge me a
dollar for this rough accommodation ; that is, for a little
bread and butter, and some corn my horses had eaten. I
could not but be angry at this imposition ; but as there
was no remedy, and as I disliked any altercation, I gave
them the money and departed. As I expected to meet
with settlements in different places on my way, I had not
laid in any provisions, but depended merely upon what I
could get at these settlements : however, I soon found
that I reckoned without my host ; for I proceeded the
whole of this morning without being able- to obtain a morsel
of anything to eat. I called at almost every plantation I
saw, but they were so poor, or so distressed for provisions
themselves, that I could get nothing. About the middle of
the day I saw a mill at a short distance. Here, I thought,
there was no fear of getting something. Accordingly
I hurried on to the place ; but how great was my surprise
to find these people in the same unfortunate situation,
and that the mill (owing to the dryness of the season)
had not been in motion some months ! To make the case
still worse, I understood there was but one more settle-
ment for a considerable distance. I accordingly hastened
to this place ; but they pleaded the same excuse. However,
after a great deal of entreaty, I got them to give me
a piece of bread which they had left at their morning's
meal ; therefore, hastening with this down to a brook

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 419

which ran by the side of the house, I sat me down upon
a log and made a comfortable breakfast. Alas ! cried
I, if mankind did but know how little would satisfy
them, they would not pursue so eagerly the bubble
riches ; which as often brings discontent and unhappi-
ness, as it does the means of satisfying their inordinate
passions. If we take a view round the world, how often
do we see that fortune scatters her favours on the most
worthless objects, and that happiness (the end and aim
of every one) by no means keeps pace with an increase of
wealth ! And I, with my crust steeped in the pure
spring of nature, am as happy and as contented as the
proudest monarch that sits upon a throne. You will ex-
cuse this digression ; but as you wished for a faithful
detail of my journey, you must be content to receive all
the remarkable impressions which were made upon my
mind, — to receive not only the outward and visible, but
also the inward and spiritual.

Having suffered my horses to graze about a little, and to
eat some corn which I had purchased at the house, I re-
sumed my course once more, and at about eight o'clock got
to Mr. Kerby's (distant from Blackamoor's eighteen miles).
Here I found a great difficulty to gain admittance. There
was no one at home but the woman of the house and
some of the servants. She said her husband was gone out,
and she did not know whether he would return that night
or not ; and that he would be very angry if she suffered
any one to sleep there when he was absent. From the
current of the poor woman's discourse I perceived her
husband was jealous of her ; and as there was no other
plantation near this place, I wished, both for her sake and
my own, that he would arrive. Whilst I was putting up

2 K 2

420 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

this pious ejaculation, who should appear at the gates but
the very man himself; and as this removed all the
charms of bolts and bars, I unpacked my horse, and led
him away to the pasture. As to myself, I returned and
made much such another meal as I did last night ; and
that done, I took my blankets out of doors, and lay down
in the open air till morning, —

Friday, August Ath, — when I started pretty early, and
got .to Major Blackamoor's (three miles) to breakfast.
Here I found a good pasture for my horses, and tolerably
good accommodations for myself ; and the people of the
house appearing very civil, I resolved upon stopping here
a week or ten days in order to relieve my horses.

The Major was one of those early emigrants who had
come here at the j^rst settling of the country ; he had
got a good deal of land about him, a great part of which
was in a rude state of cultivation. His house remained
the same as when it was first built — and of course cut
no very striking figure ; but as it was like all the rest in
this country, its uncouth appearance and rough accommo-
dations escape particular attention. Its situation was
about two or three miles to the northward of the Cumber-
land river, and the soil consisted of a rich earth lying
on a bed of limestone, which pervades the whole of this
country. Mr. Blackamoor is a major in the militia, and
possesses several negroes under him, who work upon the
plantation : in fact, the whole drudgery (both of house
and field) is committed to the slaves, under the superin-
tendance of the master. I have already observed to you
that there are few or no taverns in these newly settled
countries ; but that almost all the farmers who live near
the road will take in strangers and travellers, giving them

JOURNAL OF A TOUK. 421

what is called " dry entertainment," that is, board and
lodging, but without any spirituous liquors. For this
entertainment they generally take care to charge enough,
as I have also remarked elsewhere.

Major Blackamoor was one of these gentlemen, though
I must confess that his charges were more moderate than
many* I had witnessed. I stopped here about a week,
when on

Thursday, August 10th, a Mr. Davidson, of Ken-
tucky, happened to stop to dine here ; and informed me
that he was on his way to Knoxville, and wished for sonic
one to accompany him. As this was the route I was
pursuing, I embraced the opportunity, and told him we
had better proceed together, to which he consented ; and
having mentioned it to our host, he promised to get us
some provisions ready for our journey ; for we were now
arrived at a point on the road where we could not expect
to derive much assistance in this way from the inhabit-
ants, as they were all new settlers, and had scarcely suf-
ficient to keep themselves. Accordingly, the next morn-
ing,—

Friday, August 11th, — having put a sufficient quantity
of beef, bacon, flour, &c., (the common provisions upon

* None of the houses in this part of the world are built higher
thau the gx'ound floor ; and the flooi'ing (if any) is made of very
rough boards laid on the ground, sometimes on joists, and some-
times not ; but always with great holes between the planks. When
I was at this man's house one of the slaves saw an enormous snake
gliding under my bed, and passing through one of these holes in the
floor. The Major, to my comfort, told me that they sometimes got
into the bed, but that they would not hurt me. So soon does custom
get the better of these things, that he did not seem to care much
about it. . .

422 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

such occasions,) we started together rather early. We had
not proceeded many miles ere we stopped at a house where
Davidson met with some of his relations, who prevailed
upon him to stop with them a few days, and said that
then they would accompany him. He consented, and told
me that he could not proceed on with me unless I would
wait for him ; but I (not wishing to delay any longer)
took my leave of him, and continued on my way by myself,
determined to cross the wilderness alone, if I should not
meet with any one to accompany me. I travelled on till
about half-past five, when I came to a small creek which
I was told (when I set out) was eight miles from the
ferry. As I had now passed all the settlements except
the one at the ferry, (which I could not reach that night,)
I determined to halt here, as there was a nice clear
stream, and plenty of cane and grass for my horses. I
accordingly crossed the creek, and alighted at a spot
which I observed had been used for the same purposes be-
fore. The first thing I did was to collect plenty of wood
together and to kindle a fire : this I soon accomplished.
I then went to the stream, and filling my tin cup with
water, hung it over the fire and made me some coffee,
at the same time opening my wallet, and laying out all
ray provisions. I then sat me down upon the ground,
and made a hearty and a comfortable meal ; and after
roving about to enjoy the wildness of the place, returned
to my fire, and, spreading my blanket, lay me down to
rest. This was the first night I had ever slept out in the
woods alone, I therefore could not but remark my own
feelings upon the occasion. I expected that it would
have appeared more dismal and melancholy than it really
did ; but, whether I had become callous to all those ideal

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 423

apprehensions which we are too often disposed to anti-
cipate without any cause, or whether I was in that
temper of mind not to regard the gloominess and loneli-
ness of the place in which I was, I cannot pretend to say ;
but certain it is, that I laid down with all the composure
imaginable, and slept very soundly, without ever once
waking, till the morning.

Saturday, August 12th. — Started by daylight on my
journey, and proceeded on to the ferry. When I came
within two miles of the place I was brought to the brow
of the high lands on which I had been travelling all this
time. From this spot I had a most delightful view of the
surrounding country, and of the distant hills which border
upon the Cumberland, presenting a wild, mountainous
appearance, which could not fail to interest the spectator.
Having descended into the bottom, I passed one or two
habitations, and at last came to the ferry-house, where I
stopped^ and giving my horses some corn, took breakfast
with my host, who furnished me with coffee and some
fried rashers of bacon, served up with Indian bread : a
common, breakfast in this part of the country, where no-
thing better is to be had. This man's house stands im-
mediately upon the banks of the river ; and to the ad-
vantage of cultivating his own plantation, he unites the
profits of the ferry. The river is here one hundred and
seventy yards wide ; and a little distance below the house
a stream called " The Caney Fork" comes in. This is a
considerable branch of the Cumberland river, and is so
called from the quantity of cane brakes on its banks. This
spot is sixty-two miles from Nashville by land, though
by water it is one hundred and thirty. I was ferried
across here about ten o'clock. I paid one-eighth of a

424 • JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

dollar for each horse, though at Nashville I only paid
one-sixteenth. It is customary not to charge anything
for the passenger, only for his horses. I was landed on
the opposite shore, exactly on the point of land where the
two rivers met. The prospect from the middle of the
stream was delightful : you appeared in the centre of
three grand rivers, whose banks were everywhere formed
of lofty eminences, towering over each other with a kind
of majestic pride, and covered with verdure to their very
summits.

On leaving this mansion, I took my farewell of all kind
of society till I arrived at the opposite side of the wilder-
ness. I ascended the banks with my two horses, and,
striking into the woods, directed my steps the nearest
way to my desired port. I had now no prospect before
me but of traversing the howling desert by myself, and of
wandering alone and unprotected through this dreary
wilderness. Owing to the frequent communication which
is commonly kept up between the eastern and western
parts of this state, I found no great diJSiculties in ascer-
taining the right path, though sometimes I have been in
very disagreeable dilemmas on this head. !N^ot far from
the ferry, I met with a party of travellers going to Nash-
ville. We stopped and had some little conversation
together, and then separated, and each pursued his
destined route. They wondered very much to see me
by myself in the woods, and recommended me to wait
for company.

Towards the afternoon I ascended one of those high
hills with which these rivers are surrounded. I had un-
derstood it was a very long and a very difficult one; and
that I should find but one spring of water throughout

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 425

the Avliole distance of it, which if I passed, I should not
meet with any more till I descended a considerable way
into the valley. The day was very hot, and both my
horses and myself consequently very dry. I watched
very narrowly for the spring, which issued from the side
of the mountain, and actually descended several paths
which appeared to lead me down to it ; but, fruitless in
my search, I determined to pursue my journey, and not
to stop till I reached the brook in the valley.

Night came on, and I had not yet reached the brow of
this mountain; but in about an hour after dark I found
myself on the descent, and soon after reached the valley
below. Overcome with the fatigue of this troublesome
journey, I would willingly have laid me down to rest at
the foot of the mountain, and suffered my horses to have
refreshed themselves with the pasture they should find
there : but the pains of extreme thirst, which had not
been allayed since the morning, were too powerful to be
neglected ; I was therefore obliged to proceed. The after-
noon had been beautifully fine, and gave reason for in-
dulging the hope of an equally propitiotis day on the
morrow ; but, alas ! scarce had the sun set below the
horizon, ere I perceived the clouds begin to assemble to-
gether, and to indicate an approaching storm ; to heighten
the scene, also, I heard the rumbling noise of distant
thunder, and soon after perceived the faint flashes of , the
fiery lightning. I thought the elements were very un-
kind to me, the first night of my embarking in the wilder-
ness alone ; yet, as I had long before this learnt to bear
the sports of fortune, I resolved also not to suffer this
little deviation from the smooth track to ruffle my temper.
I therefore pursued my course without an unpleasant or
discordant thought.

426 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

I continued on till I found the thunder and lightning
increase upon me. It was now near ten o'clock, and
dark as pitch, save when the vivid flashes kindly lent me
a ray of light to help me on my way. I had observed
no signs of water; and, fearful that I should not be able
to kindle a fire if I continued on till the rain descended,
I determined (parched as I was with thirst) to stop and
take up my abode for the night.

I got together all the wood I could discover near me,
and, kindling a fire large enough to roast an ox, and
which I thought might be able to withstand an;y" rain
which might fall, spread my blanket, and lay down to
rest. I had scarce accomplished all this ere the storm
approached upon me; the lightning began to be more
frequent, and the rain to descend^ and in such torrents
did it come down, that this vast flame which I had so
lately kindled was soon extinguished. The rain refreshed
me very much ; and, regardless of all the bustle about me,
and the state of darkness in which I was now left, I fell
fast asleep, wrapped up in my blanket, and having my
head reclining -upon a log of wood for a pillow. In this
situation, overcome with fatigue, and " indifi"erent in my
choice to live or die,"' I weathered out this storm, and
slept very soundly till three or four o'clock in the morn-
ing, when I awoke and found the elements had not ceased
their contest, but were still warring against each other in
all the impetuosity and rage of two discordant enemies.
As to myself, I observed that I was nearly covered with
water : for I had chosen a hollow place, which served as a
bed both for me and the water, and had I continued there
much longer it would have approached my head. You
will naturally conceive that this drove away all sensations
of thirst : it did so, and I awoke very much relieved from

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 427

that inconvenience; and, rising from mj bed and wring-
ing my blankets, went and lay down on a higher spot of
ground, and slept very soundly till morning, —

Sundae/, August 13^^,— when I awoke and found every
cloud dispersed, and the sun rising bea^itifully in the east.
This agreeable contrast with the preceding night induced
me to say, with Othello, —

" If aftex' every storm there comes such calm," &c.,

and I " proceeded on my course rejoicing." I had not gone
far before I came to the little rivulet which I had been
seeking so long; but now, as all thirst was departed, I
passed it without scarcely deigning to look at it.

About nine or ten o'clock I ascended the Cumberland
mountains. Those mountains are a spur from the Alle-
gany, and separate from them about the middle of Vir-
ginia, proceeding in a south-western direction, and giving
rise to several famous rivers, all of which flow into the
Ohio, and water the new states of Tenessee and Kentucky.
They are not quite so high as the Allegany mountains;
and at the place where I passed over them, they are
about fifty miles across, and in some places are perfectly
level at top, watered with fine streams, and afi"ording
many excellent situations for plantations, agreeably to
what I have already said of the Allegany mountains.
There is one place in particular, called the Crab Orchard,
which is ten miles from the east foot of the mountains,
and at the west foot of the Spenser's Hill, which I will
describe when I arrive at it.

My first approach to these mountains was along a plain
almost void of trees, and covered entirely with grass;
and at the termination I saw the base of the mountains
ranged in majestic order before me, bidding defiance to

428 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

my approach, and indicating the difficulties I should have
to encounter in the accomplishment. I was obliged to
dismount from my horse to ascend these steep eminences. I
observed the soil to be composed of a red earth, which made
the hill appear as ;f there had been a quantity of bricks
broken and scattered about. The rain had made it very
slippery, which rendered it very unpleasant. It was near
an hour before I got to the top of this first hill, which was
but a prelude to what I had to encounter ; for I observed
at some distance the tops of other eminences whose sides
I had to mount, and (these ascended) still more at a
greater distance, which reminded me of Pope's line in his
Essay on Criticism, —

" Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps on Alps arise."

The sun had shone very bright ever since he had risen,
and dried up what little moisture the rain had kindly dis-
tributed last night. It was now between eleven and
twelve o'clock, and time for me to rest both myself and
my horses; but as I could observe no water any where, I
was obliged to proceed. I continued on for some little
distance, and at last observed a hollow in the ground
where some rain water had lodged on the day preceding.
Here I alighted, and kindling a fire, made some cofiee,
and fared sumptuously on some bread and butter and
mutton, which I had brought with me from Mr. Black-
amoor's. Here, being all alone, I sauntered about the
woods to observe the fine romantic views which my pecu-
liarly elevated situation afi'orded me. I then returned to
my encampment, and reclined under the shade of some
lofty tree for an hour or two, and after giving my horses
time to graze about the woods, pursued my journey.

I continued on my way this afternoon without meeting

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 429

with anything very remarkable. The agreeable diversity
of hill and dale with which this state is favoured, together
with the delightful views of a fine romantic country,
served to dissipate that ennui and wearisomeness which,
perhaps, I might otherwise have experienced. There had
been an army across this place about two or three years
ago, and I took a pleasure in observing their track
through the woods, and in tracing out their diiferent en-
campments as they went along. In some places I could
hardly discover any remains of their march ; in others, it
was distinctly visible. I determined upon halting early
this evening, not only that I might thereby rest my horses
from the fatigue of ascending such steep eminences, but
also that I might be enabled to kindle a fire and take
my repast before the night set in. Just before six I
came to a brook, which I followed some little way into
the woods, in order that I might get off the path and
avoid discovery, and (having singled out a convenient
spot surrounded by a thicket on every side) I unpacked
my horses, and determined to tarry here all night. Thus
you behold me a third time encamped out in the woods
by myself. I was by this time got pretty well used to
it, so that I lay down with as little concern as if I had
been surrounded by a numerous party. My sleep was
undisturbed till the morning, —

Monday, August lUh, — when I awoke, and pursued
my journey alone. As I was proceeding on my way on
foot up one of the steep eminences among these mountains,
whom should I discover (on turning round) at some dis-
tance behind me, but Mr. Davidson, whom I had left a
few days ago in the settlements. I immediately stopped
my horses and halted till he came up. It was a joyful

430 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

meeting to us both, as we were each travelling alone.
He informed me that his friends having declined accom-
panying him, he had made the best of his way to overtake
me, that he had passed two nights alone in the desert,
and had tracked me to the very spot in which we were
then speaking. We compared notes respecting our situa-
tion on the stormy night of the Saturday, and found that
we could not have been a great way from each other.
Under such circumstances it would have been fortunate
to have found a companion.

Our conversation now beguiled the path amazingly, and
we reached the summit of the mountain without having
experienced any toil or fatigue. Our course lay now over
a smooth plain, and the agreeableness of the place would
have induced us to halt, had we found any water near ;
but there being a scarcity of that article, we were obliged
to pursue our journey still farther. At length, finding
that our search was fruitless, we sat us down and finished
our repast without any liquid whatever to appease the
pressing calls of thirst, which the heat of the climate and
the labour of the journey induced. As I was wandering
about, according to my custom, to observe the beauties of
the country, I saw in some few places the tracks of deer
or other animals on the ground, which were filled with
water, the last remains of the storm on the twelfth.
These tracks hardly contained a wine-glass full apiece,
and were so shallow that we could not take up the water
with a spoon which we had with us without mixing it
with the dirt at the bottom; we therefore cut a flat
stick, and hollowing it out somewhat in the middle, took
it up drop hy drop, and placed it in a tin cup till we
had nearly filled it, and having collected sufficient for a

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 431

draught, drank it up, and thus appeased the pressing
calls of nature. We then pursued our journey, and were
continually delighted with the romantic scenery of the
country, a fine view of which we gained when we reached
the summit of the various eminences with which this
part of the country abounds. About four o'clock we
arrived at Oba's river : it was a pretty wide stream, but
very shallow, and full of large stones, or rather rocks,
which, together with its craggy sides, contrasted with the
surrounding woods, formed a picturesque and pleasant
appearance. I should have been surprised to find so
large a stream at the top of the mountains ; but as I
observed the same thing on the Allegany mountains, and
justly concluded that this was the source of all the large
navigable streams that water this country, my surprise
was somewhat abated. We did not proceed far beyond
this place ere we encamped ; and we had scarcely kindled
our fire, before we were joined by a party of three other
persons who were travelling the same way as we were,
and who, observing our fire, had made towards the place
where we encamped, with an intent of passing the night
with us. We were happy to see them, as it not only
strengthened our party, but also enlivened a few hours
which otherwise we might have passed very dull for want
of company. We set our new visitors to collect wood
for the fire; and there being an appearance of rain, we
formed a curious kind of Indian tent out of the bark of
some trees which we saw scattered about. This appeared
to be an old encamping place, as there were the remains
of several fires and camps on every side of the little stream
of water on whose banks we halted^ Our fears were
however, groundless ; for the night passed away very
pleasantly, and the next morning, —

432 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

Tuesday, August 15th, — we continued our journey.
We had not met a single person in the wilderness all this
time, since I took leave of the few travellers I met with
on the banks of the Cumberland river. However, this
morning we met with a party of emigrants who were tra-
velling to the western division of this state, and who had got
a waggon along with them, together with a few cows and
other cattle. They appeared heartily fatigued with the
labours of the journey, and inquired of us how far it was
to the termination of the wilderness. We gave them but
a bad account of the roughness of the roads, of which
they said they had encountered enough already. In re-
turn we asked them concerning the state of the paths
which we were pursuing, of which they also could give no
flattering account : in particular, they told us that we
were approaching towards a part where we should find
great scarcity of grass in the woods ; and consequently
that we ought to take advantage of those spots where we
should observe any. Having delayed some little time in
conversation, we proceeded on, and soon after halted to
take our morning's repast. We did not continue here
so long as we had used to do, as we wished to reach the
Crab Orchard in the evening. We accordingly hurried
on; and having passed two small rivers, or rather creeks,
we arrived at that spot about five o'clock.

Here we halted some time, in order to admire the
beauties of the place. It is a fine large plain, or natural
meadow, containing many hundred acres, and covered
throughout its whole extent with a tall, rich grass, sur-
rounded on every side by the neighbouring mountains,
and watered with several fine springs, which flow from
one end to the other. The scenery of the craggy moun-
tains, covered with trees to their very top, contrasted

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 433

with the smooth level of the plain, afforded us a view
highly picturesque, novel, and enchanting ; and one which
we could not but dwell on with pleasure. Near one end
of it, and not far from the road, is a very great natural
curiosity. It is a subterraneous cavity in a rock under
the mountains, down which you descend, by some steps
cut in the stone, into a large spacious room, through
which runs a clear, limpid stream of spring water, which
rises from the rock at one end, and flows out at the other,
through a passage under ground, and disgorges itself in
the open air, not far from the entrance to the cave. I
thought within myself, that this would form an admirable
situation for a settlement, and this subterraneous cavity
would afford an excellent convenience for a spring homp*
being always cool, even in the hottest seasons.

With regret we left this delightful spot, and proceeded
on about one mile and a half further, to the foot of
Spenser's hill, where there was an excellent spring of
water, and plenty of grass and pea- vine for our horses.
Just before we reached this spot we met a party of horse-
men, who were bound also to the western divisions of
this state. The number of persons whom we now met
surprised me very much, never having before noticed any
thing of the kind in a desert wilderness; but it must be
observed that, since the Indians have been at peace,
travelling has been more secure, and small parties have
not feared to trust themselves along the wilderness; and
as emigration is increasing very fast, there is great proba-
bility that this road will, in the course of a few years,
be as secure as any in the United States.

* A spring house is a very common appendage to an American
farmer's establishment, even in these rough countries. It is a
substitute for an ice house. 2 f

434 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

We endeavoured to persuade this party to join us this
evening; but as they were in a hurry to proceed they
soon left us, and we presently after reached the place of
our destination.

As we had experienced great want of water in our
journey across these mountains, any thing which partook
of the nature of a stream would have been acceptable to
us : how much more then must it be to meet with one of
ihQ finest springs the earth ever produced ! We drank of
it as if it were nectar, and had it possessed any spirit,
we should have lain down overcome with its fumes. We
kindled a fire for the night, and then led our horses away
to a neighbouring spot abounding with rich grass and pea-
vine. We then returned to our encampment, and passed
away the remaining part of the day in observing the
beauties of the place. We were now at the termination of
the smooth plain I have been mentioning, and (after having
made some circuitous turnings) were arrived at a foot of
one of the highest ridges of these mountains, the ascent
up which is remarkably steep and difficult. As I was
wandering about, admiring the beauties of the place,
and embosomed in woods and mountains, I could not
but reflect what an insignificant creature I appeared
among these magnificent works of the Divine Creator ;
and it threw me into a train of thought somewhat
similar to what I should conceive Addison was in,
when he penned certain numbers of the Spectator. We
strolled about here till it was quite dark, and return-
ing to the rest of our company, (by the light of the fire
they had kindled,) spread our blankets and lay us down
to rest ; and the next morning, —

Wednesday, August 16 fh, — awoke pretty early, in order

JOURNAL OF A TOUR, 435

to surmount, before the heat of the day, the difficult path
which lay before us. This was no less than one of the
steepest and longest mountains I remember to have passed
over. It was with difficulty our packhorses could ascend
it, and we were obliged to halt several times, or they
would not have been able to proceed. Having reached
the summit, we proceeded on pretty well afterwards, as
the descent was by no means so rapid ; and when we
reached the foot of the mountain on the other side, we
halted at the first stream of water to refresh ourselves
and our horses. Coming down from these mountains, we
had a most delightful view of the surrounding country.
The spurs or ridges of mountains which projected from
the side of this vast base formed an agreeable variety of
hill and dale immediately under us ; and the distant
plain, or sea of woods beyond, formed a delightful and
enchanting contrast.

We did not stop long at our breakfast, but (wishing to
proceed on our journey) saddled our horses, and made
the best of our way to Clinch river, where we arrived
about three o'cloek. Here we took leave of the wilder-
ness, and observed once more the marks of civilized life.
On the banks of the Clinch river we remarked a small
Indian encampment, where a few Indian women were
dressing some victuals : they told us their husbands were
gone out to hunt. Whilst our horses were ferrying across
in the boat (which belongs to a man who has a plantation
on the opposite shore) we entered into conversation with
them, and exchanged some salt and gunpowder for some
raockasons which they had got.

Clinch river, where we crossed it, was two hundred and
eighty yards wide, and was within sight of its junction

2 F 2

436 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

with the Tenessee, of which it is one of the principal
branches. It is thirty miles below the junction of the
Holstein and Tenessee rivers. We paid for our ferriage
one-eighth of a dollar for each horse. It will be observed,
by an inspection of the map, that from the time we took
the Cumberland mountains to this place we have been
travelling within the Indian country. The Indians keep
this tract of land in full sovereignty, and have not yet
parted with their title to it to the United States. But
soon after we leave the banks of the Clinch river, we get
once more within the proper limits of the state of
Tenessee. After refreshing ourselves at the ferry we con-
tinued our journey, intending to reach this evening an
encampment of men, women, and children, which was
formed between this place and Knoxville. These people
were waiting to set out to settle some lands on the Tenes-
see river, but (as there had lately been a dispute with the
Indians with respect to the running the line which divided
their territory from the United States) they thought it
best to wait the issue of the negotiation which was
pending. The limits of the Indian territory had been
fixed by the treaty of Holstein ; but it being some
years after ere the line was actually run, they found
(when they came to survey that part of the country) that
a number of inhabitants had encroached and settled on
the Indian territory. This was not at all to be wondered
at, as it is almost impossible to know exactly where
a line (drawn only upon paper) will actually strike when
it comes to be measured. As the United States (agreeably
to the policy which they have universally adopted) were
determined that the Indians should have no just cause of
complaint, they ordered all the families which had so en-

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 437

croached to remove within the limits of the United States,
and the President actually sent a detachment of the army
into the country to enforce his commands. This was the
bone of contention, which was the subject of conversation
in every place I went into. The inhabitants firmly opposed
being removed from their settlements; and they were
supported in their opposition by the encouragement of
those who were within the limits of the United States,
as they all hate the Indians, and think a little deviation
from justice is a thing to be overlooked where their two
interests clash with each other. So far does prejudice
carry us ! And I believe the inhabitants were prepared
to defend themselves against the soldiery with the point
of the sword. Happily, things did not come to these
extremities, for it was discovered that the line which
had been drawn by the surveyors was not agreeable to
the treaty ; that if it had been drawn right, it would not
have cut off any of the inhabitants of the state within
the Indian limits. Accordingly, a representation of this
case was made to the General Assembly at Knoxville,
who forwarded a remonstrance to the President of the
United States ; and at the same time formed a number
of resolutions indicative of their determination not to
suffer the inhabitants to be turned out of their posses-
sions. Such was the state of the country when I was
in it. We reached the encampment about sunset, and
having kindled a fire amongst them, and turned our
horses into the woods to search for pasture, went round
to visit the different parties we saw there. They were
scattered over a rising ground, near which were some
fine springs of water. They seemed to lament their
situation, in being deprived of going to settle the land

438 JOURNAL OF A TOUR.

which they had justly and fairly bought; and were so
worked up by the apparent hardness of their case, that
had things taken a contrary turn, I believe they would
have forced their way by the point of the bayonet. We
strolled about amongst them till it was quite dark. The
sight of any kind of society quite enlivened us, and we
returned to our grassy bed in health and spirits. In the
morning, —

Thursday, August 17th, — we rose again to pursue our
journey. It was some time before we could find our
horses, as they had strayed farther into the woods than we
had ever known them to do before. By the assistance
of some of our kind companions, we soon recovered them,
and (taking leave of this little society) directed our steps
towards Knoxville, the capital of the state. Soon after
we started, I took leave of my companions, as they were
going another road from the one I was pursuing ; I there-
fore jogged on by myself, admiring in silence the different
agreeable objects which were continually presenting them-
selves to my eyes. About one o'clock I stopped at a
plantation which I saw on the road, and having alighted
from my horse and given him some corn, walked into the
house to get something for myself : for at all these places
you may take this liberty if you pay them well for it. I
found the family just set down to some soup, or kind of
broth (which was made by boiling Indian corn and bacon
together, or in some such way). It was to me very good,
as I was extremely hungry, though at any other time or
place I might have rejected it with disgust. Having
tarried here about an hour, I pursued my journey, and
within about a mile or two of Knoxville passed through
the detachment of the army which had been sent down

JOURNAL OF A TOUR. 439

here to enforce the President's command. The band was
just playing a military air, and a number of people had
come from the town to hear and to see. It was an agree-
able sight to me, as I found myself emerged at once from
the bosom of the wilderness to all the charms of civilized
life. I stopped here a little, and recognised some of the
officers whom I had seen before on the Ohio. Soon after
I left them, and at six reached the town of Knoxville,
which is forty miles from Clinch river. Gcetera desunt.

[Addendum. — Mr. Baily concludes with the following
memorandum : — " I could fill another volume nearly as
large as this." By some loose papers preserved with the
Journal, it appears that he left New York in an American
ship, January 28, 1798. The ship was boarded by a
French privateer, and himself and another, not having
American passports, were made prisoners of war. Stand-
ing to it, however, that they were American citizens,
they were permitted to proceed. They arrived at Bristol
on the 1st of March.— Ed.]

M. S. Rickerby, Printer. 73, Cannon Street, City.

Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process.
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide
Treatment Date: Dec. 2004

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